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 > Your search for posts made by 'valhalla360' found 1583 matches.

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RE: 50 amp in a 30

Hi Valhala360, That's a nice write up on hybrid inverter/chargers. However, do please realize that it is not "voltage support" (a la autoformer). It is possible to limit the incoming amperage. Since I'm 30 amp, I limit at 24. If I'm boondocking, I drop that to 12. If load support is active and the batteries drop too low, then the shore power breaker will trip. DAMHIK. After this summer, I'll be moving to a 7.2 KWH usable capacity battery bank. In the days before I had load support, I would do double conversion--plugging in only the converter--and running the RV from a 2500 watt inverter, powered by the 875 amp-hour (3.2 kwh usable) battery bank. Agreed, things get more complicated in order to really maximize the available power. Even most inverter/chargers don't do load support and yes, voltage is a separate issue You really need to have a firm understanding of what you are trying to do and how your system operates to maximize the benefits. With 7.2kwh usable battery (pretty darn large by most standards), drawing off the batteries for extended periods becomes much more practical as long as eventually, there is an opportunity to recharge. You could pull 500w for 14hr to boost for air/con during the day. Assuming it cools off at night and can send 750w of power back into the batteries, it's viable but you would have to be keeping close tabs on things.
valhalla360 04/20/21 07:37am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Trailering

I don't know but most inquires seem like not of much value to most. Kind of like this thread? :h
valhalla360 04/20/21 05:57am Travel Trailers
RE: Solar/Inverter Question

The minimum is one solar watt per battery amp hour. This is a very common issue leading to “my solar didn’t recharge my batteries...it doesn’t work!” You need at least 65 more watts. I’m 240 amps with 300 solar watts. Rules of thumb can often be way off the mark. Also unless you go to extremes, it's just a question of time to recharge not if it recharges. Do an energy audit. Figure out what devices you are running and how long they are running. Each device will have a wattage rating listed on it. Watts * Hours = Watt-Hours Add them all up to get the total used. 6v * 235 amp-hr * 2 batteries = 2820 watt-hours in the battery bank but you can't use all of those for lead acid batteries, you don't want to drop below 50% or about 1400 w-hr if you start from full. Solar panels don't put out their max rating except under perfect conditions. A good estimate is 4-5 times the rating in w-hr, so 170w panel will generate around 680 w-hr per day. So if you are consuming 1200 w-hr per day, after the first day, you will be down to around 800w-hr available in the battery bank, after the 2nd day, you will be down to 200 w-hr. Of course, you want to factor in some inefficiency as battery banks are not perfect at charging and as you mentioned, dirty panels don't put out as much...so in reality, after 2 days, you would have used all the power you can without risking damage to the batteries. For a 2-3 day weekend trip with light use, your system should be OK but you really need to watch your usage. If you are doing longer trips, I would lean toward more solar so you are mostly replacing what you used. If you are just using more but only for 2-3 day trips, adding a couple more batteries may be simpler and then let them charge off the solar during the week when you aren't drawing any power.
valhalla360 04/20/21 05:48am Technology Corner
RE: 50 amp in a 30

I use load support from my inverter charger. What is this? MOST INVERTERS DO NOT but a few higher end inverters, can see the hertz from the pedestal and match it's output. This allows the electrical system to draw from both the pedestal and inverter simultaneously. Particularly useful for short term peak loading. Let's say, you are drawing 2700w and want to run the 1000w microwave for 5min. With just shore power, that would put you beyond what a 30amp outlet could theoretically provide. In this case, the inverter could throw a few hundred watts at the problem for 5 min to support the loads. Then once done, it could pump the power back to recharge the battery bank. This won't work well for high long duration loads. Let's say you are running 3000w for 2 air/con units plus an extra 800w for fridge, TV, lights, etc...on a hot day where the air/con units are running continuously. That would put you at 3800w. Load support might be pulling 800-1000w off the battery bank...unless it's a really big battery bank, it will go dead very quickly.
valhalla360 04/20/21 05:34am Fifth-Wheels
RE: F 250 vs Ram 2500

One reason for going diesel is that as the world switches to electric vehicles, diesel will be one of the last types to disappear. I take it you aren't familiar with the refining process. What do you think they are going to do with the gasoline that comes out of each barrel? They can tweak the gasoline to diesel a little by the refining process but there is always a substantial amount of gasoline produced even when tweaked for maximum diesel. Also, what do you think will happen to the roads when they no longer have the asphalt for asphalt concrete (hint: Portland cement concrete consumes huge amounts of petroleum products) This is not about the refining process, but the engines that run off them. More and more manufacturers are moving away from gasoline engines. There will be a tipping point that will have all new ICE running diesel. So, before the manufacturers go completely electric, diesels will be the last hold out. You didn't answer the question...what do you think they are going to do with billions of gallons of gasoline? Another issue...The reason diesel was originally popular for heavy trucking was it was cheap. If gasoline becomes cheap, expect heavy trucking to start using big gasoline engines...and before you say it, you can beef up a gas engine so it will last 400-500k miles before an overhaul and they can put out the power to haul an 80,000lb semi. Just needs a little development which $0.50/gal gasoline would justify.
valhalla360 04/20/21 05:22am Tow Vehicles
RE: 50 amp in a 30

Trial and error. One AC, water heater on gas, limit other high amp devices. If you trip the park 30 amp breaker, no harm done. Just remember what you did and don’t do it again. Only do this if you check the amperage draw. 30amp is a nominal rating and implies the peak load. Continuous loads are limited to 80% (24amps) per the ratings...and that assumes the park system isn't' wonky. If you run continuous at or near 30amp and manage not to blow the breaker, you can burn things up and while rare, possibly start a fire.
valhalla360 04/19/21 02:52pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: F 250 vs Ram 2500

One reason for going diesel is that as the world switches to electric vehicles, diesel will be one of the last types to disappear. I take it you aren't familiar with the refining process. What do you think they are going to do with the gasoline that comes out of each barrel? They can tweak the gasoline to diesel a little by the refining process but there is always a substantial amount of gasoline produced even when tweaked for maximum diesel. Also, what do you think will happen to the roads when they no longer have the asphalt for asphalt concrete (hint: Portland cement concrete consumes huge amounts of petroleum products)
valhalla360 04/19/21 02:43pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Roof Replacement

Example of what I am talking about.. https://i.imgur.com/eNbyXMcl.jpg This damage was not caused by roof vents, it was caused by.. https://i.imgur.com/o7PlHmxl.jpg Which is the trim.. The caulking under that trim had gotten hard and cracked and the previous owner was too lazy to remove the trim and replace the caulking so they used everyones favorite fix in a tube.. Silicone.. The silicone didn't fix the issue and kept on leaking until I bought the trailer and when I stripped back the rotted paneling it was leaking like a sieve when it rained.. Looks like a 40yr old trailer...lots of newer ones rot out within 10-20yrs.
valhalla360 04/19/21 02:39pm Travel Trailers
RE: Roof Replacement

:R You do realize the part of my post you snipped was a joke? Even with zero roof penetrations you have something like 100 holes in the roof membrane, right? The roofing material folds down over the side wall, then the trim strip is applied over the roofing material on the side wall.. That is a potential leak that is real and that is where most of the water infiltration happens.. You have at least 40 holes on each side of the roof, not to mention all the holes from the end trim strips.. The cold hard reality with RVs you need to constantly check the caulking on a regular schedule, replace when caulking ages. It is called "PMs" or Preventative Maintenance. So in reality, removing all of the holes on top of the roof nets you zero reduction in potential leaks. In fact, I would rather have a leak show up at a roof vent instead of having a hidden leak on the sidewall trim.. That side wall trim can leak for yrs and you will never know it until it pools up and rots out the floor far, far away from the real source of the leak at the trim. Seen considerable rot damage on both of the trailers I have rehabbed that came from leaks on the side wall trim. Just because that trim has a vinyl cover in place covering the screws, it doesn't mean that water can't leak through. That trim uses and depends on the same butyl rubber caulking and it fails after a couple of yrs. Absolutely understood, you were joking....that was the point. You made a joke not realizing it would be a great idea. Yes, you still have to maintain the edges but you can roll those over the exterior where they are more easily visible (think utility trailers). It's easy to claim, you do great maintenance, so it's not an issue but obviously, it is an issue.
valhalla360 04/19/21 02:37pm Travel Trailers
RE: F 250 vs Ram 2500

A lot depends on what you are pulling and how often you are pulling. If it's a small 6000lb trailer and a couple thousand miles flatland towing per year, I wouldn't pay for diesel, it's not needed and you will never recoup the up front cost in fuel savings. Heck diesel is now typically more than gas per gallon, so you may get better MPG but not better MPD(ollar). On the other hand, if you are looking at a 15,000lb 5er, lots of miles including towing regularly in the mountains, jumping up to a 1ton diesel, starts becoming much more appealing. It's not as bad as the 1/2 ton trucks but there still is a fair amount of variability in the payload and towing specs for a 3/4 ton, so a blanket statement about 3/4 ton doesn't mean much unless you are way overkill for the trailer and any 3/4 ton will do.
valhalla360 04/16/21 12:31pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Roof Replacement

Using that "logic" one would want to get rid of the fridge vent, the A/C unit(s) and the black and grey tank vents, then you have zero holes to deal with. That would be awesome and would result in trailers that last much longer. It's nice to say if you are scrupulous about sealing it's not an issue...but reality is a large percentage of RVs go to the junk yard due to leaks, so clearly it is a problem. Retrofitting an existing RV would be difficult as you would need to figure alternatives out. But if you have good mood lighting already, skipping some or all of the roof vents would not be a bad option. For new construction, it's not nearly as bad: - Skip the vents and skylights and add LED strips around the ceiling. Actually a lot of RVs have already done the LED thing and with power consumption so low, it's really not an issue running them to compensate for the lost natural light. - Fridge...they are already going there with 12v fridges that require no external ventilation becoming the new standard. - Air/con units could do minisplit with the condenser on the rear bumper and no roof penetrations. - Tank Vents could be done with small wall mounted outlets. - A frosted side window in the bathroom, potentially with a fan would handle shower humidity. None of this would be particularly expensive to implement on a new production unit. Side benefits: - Slightly lower profile to get under low bridges/tree limbs. - Maybe a touch more aerodynamic for better fuel economy. - It would make one piece fiberglass or aluminum roofs a cheaper option which would again increase long term water tightness.
valhalla360 04/16/21 12:22pm Travel Trailers
RE: Rving in New Zealand

Have fun and doable even at present with low Covid cases. Did NZ change their rules in the last few days? Last I knew, NZ was closed except to residents and essential travel...which likely wouldn't include a vacation.
valhalla360 04/16/21 10:07am Full-time RVing
RE: Outdoor latches

The cheap barrel locks aren't great but we hit them with some WD-40 a couple times a year and corrosion hasn't been an issue.
valhalla360 04/16/21 05:20am General RVing Issues
RE: Help! Hitch stuck in ball mount.

Wow, thank you everyone. I have never used a forum like this and had no idea so many people would reply with suggestions. To the person who asked, no, I'm not in Texas, but thanks so much for offering to help; I wish you could come help me! Thank you also to the person who posted the vocab list. To try and clarify the situation: 1) The truck is no longer attached; I drove it away after removing the hitch pin. 2) The torsion bars/sway bars/spring bars (can these terms all be used interchangeably?) have been removed. 3) The ball and ball mount are dangling from the trailer's coupler. My main objective at this point is to get that ball mount out of that coupler without damaging anything. I will check again to see that I properly opened the coupler latch. The trailer is old and the latch did not open so easily like the demos I watch on youtube! I will get some WD-40 to spray up in there. Several people suggested hitting the coupler with a hammer or mallet. This is also what my boss suggested to me today. I will review the comments again, and if anyone has suggestions w/ the more clear description, please let me know. I will try again tomorrow morning. I don't know how to post a photo to the forum; first time forum user here. Can you rotate the ball at all if you grab the shank or is it just completely immobile? If you can rotate it and shift it around, it's probably the latch. It might be as simple as apply 40-50lb of upward pressure so the latch can operate. Just be careful as it's pretty heavy if it falls out. If the ball is trapped and completely immobile, you have a bit more of a challenge. (be very careful and triple check that the trailer can't roll of drop) - If you can get it back into the receiver on the truck, you can use the truck and the trailer jack to try and free it but that will be difficult to get perfectly lined up. - You could try chocking the tires very well and then use a jack to try and push the ball up. Be very careful not to lift the front of the trailer off the ground. That might pop it free.
valhalla360 04/16/21 05:19am Beginning RVing
RE: Help! Hitch stuck in ball mount.

Not enough info to say for sure. Maybe try taking some pictures and post them. If the torsion bars (or one) is still somehow in place, be very careful as it's like a strung bow. But unless I'm missing something, when the hitch was pulled out of the receiver, that should have released the tension on the torsion bars but again, it's hard to tell what's happening based on the description.
valhalla360 04/15/21 01:41pm Beginning RVing
RE: First Post - 2012 Ram 1500 Laramie - What can I pull??

“Greatly exceeding” we’re not talking 1000lbs here. We’re talking a couple hundred pounds. I for one would not worry about that. There are MH’s out there with smaller CCC and the same amount of storage as my class A with a 4200lb CCC! OP was asking about a 7600lb empty trailer...so likely north of 9000-9500lb ready for the road with a hitch weight roughly equal to the trucks payload. That's before putting people or other gear in the truck (that all counts against the payload). If he was over by 100lb, I might agree that the OP can use his discretion...but he's likely going to exceed his payload limits by 50-75%. Now if he drops back to 4000-5000lb fully loaded weight, that's probably viable if he is careful to limit what gets loaded in the truck.
valhalla360 04/15/21 07:44am Beginning RVing
RE: Dangerous Pranks

It's been posted as a potential problem before: 2013 post And there was a blog about it before that: 2011 blog Yep, urban legends tend to have long lives.
valhalla360 04/15/21 04:23am General RVing Issues
RE: F350 SRW Enough Truck

Us diesel guys tend to think there is no other option than a diesel for towing. But there are a lot of other guys out there towing with gassers and are perfectly happy with them. :Z I've had both gas and diesel. I have a Ford V10 currently but we are down around 7,500lb with the current rig. Same truck towing a 12,000lb 5er and it did it but every overpass it would downshift. Never overheated or felt we couldn't make it up the next hill but you really felt it as testing the limits. The 7.3 might do a little better but 14-15k, I would be looking for a diesel.
valhalla360 04/14/21 11:04am Tow Vehicles
RE: Black tank leaked. What to do?

No rot no stink...it doesn't need to be replaced...unless you need to cut it out to remove the tank. Unless you are trying to repurpose the space the tank sits in, you might just leave it if you were able to fully drain it. We had a composter on our boat. For a full size RV (with functional tanks), I would not recommend it. For a truck camper with a small tank, it's a good option. Easier to deal with than a cassette, which we've used on rental RVs and the solids tank on ours could handle a month with 2 people using it. The big thing is the smell. Other than a slightly earthy garden smell when emptying, no smells. The urine can be disposed of in any toilet. The 2 gallon tank is easier to carry and pour than a cassette. Thanks. Eventually I'd like to replace the black tank with a second fresh water tank but that can wait. Glad to hear your experience was overall positive. We don't have a dump site that is terribly convenient to our house, we frequently go winter camping and I hate dealing with the black tank during winter so I'm dead set on the composter. It literally cannot be any worse. It might not compost in the winter as the process slows way down when cold but dump it in a compost bin at home in the spring and let it set for a few months. Even without it decomposing, you should have plenty of space for 2-3 months of weekending on the solids tank. You do still need someplace to dump the urine but that's generally easier. We had a Natures Head and it needed to be dumped every couple days.
valhalla360 04/14/21 11:00am Truck Campers
RE: First Post - 2012 Ram 1500 Laramie - What can I pull??

Update. I just called the Dodge dealership. Told them what I had and he looked it up by my VIN. He says my towing capacity is 9850. It has a "392 rear end?" and he said the GCWR?? is 15,500. Tongue weight should be 10-15% towing capacity so as long as i stay around 1400 or preferably below on tongue weight I'm solid. I'm confused about what you said anyway @Valhalla360 because the manual says towing from 5000 to 9850. I don't know where you got 5000 being max. Maybe you thought (and it says) 5000lbs could be the limit but thankfully apparently mine has the highest possible limit of the different versions of my truck. Sound right? Idk. SO new to this. I know it pulls my pontoon boat quite well. HAHA Sorry, your first post wasn't clear. There isn't typically a minimum tow rating, so I thought the 5000lb was the tow limit you found. But regardless, you run into payload limits before you would ever get close to the 9850 tow rating. If the payload is 1180lb, 1400 tongue weight would already be over by 320lb without you even in the truck.
valhalla360 04/14/21 10:56am Beginning RVing
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