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 > Your search for posts made by 'vegasfoodguy' found 6 matches.

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RE: Replacement Fridge or New Cooling Unit

My new Norcold is an absolute pile of junk and I'll probably be installing an Amish cooling unit or a compressor conversion kit from JC Cooling in it eventually. If your going to stay with an absorbtion type fridge, you'd be much better off getting a good cooling unit for your existing fridge rather than a whole new fridge. I too have the new Amish Cooling unit in my Norcold. BUT GUESS WHAT? IT DOESN'T COOL REASONABLE EITHER! JC Refrigeration blames the installer, and the installer blames JC Refrigeration and you get no where with either. Right now my unit is ON with the new Amish cooling unit, and it is 10 degrees in the freezer and 42 in the refrigerator. Ice cream does NOT get frozen hard, and if you open the door twice, it's now 45 degrees in the refrigerator and takes many hours to get to 42. AND 42 IS NOT THAT SAFE! My plan is to get a residential unit and spend the $ and call it DONE. I am tired of playing the Norcold Amish games while they take my money and make up reasons to blame each other. Try putting your ice cream in the icemaker side. I have the Amish cooling unit, 2 weeks ago i was in vegas, 106 outside, 33 in the frig 0 in the freezer. With ice cream in ice maker side, was too hard to scoop. I like dry camping too much to give up propane. Also those of you complaining about not cold, are both fans working? Terry.
vegasfoodguy 07/30/19 09:44pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Refrigerator Change in a Class A Gasser

OK, we are discussing changing out our Dometic 2862 for an all electric. One option is the guy who does the conversion in Indiana (JC Refeigeration I believe) and I spoke with him. $750 for him to do it. I just need to get the MH to him. Wife does not like that idea, and wants a new unit. So we've been looking at residential units, and there are a few out there - BUT - folks in the last 2 campgrounds have warned us that the residential units are not made to bounce around in an RV, and we need to look at the Norcold, Dometic Nova Kool, or other all electric units. Question - who has made the change in their gassers (DP's ride much smoother, so I don't know if it's a fair comparison) and is happy with the performance and longevity, and what did you install. Al JC Refrigeration will give you 3 to 6 years warranty, I don't think your residential will do that. By the way, I have a JC unit, 94 degrees outside, 34 in the frig, 0 in freezer.
vegasfoodguy 06/10/19 11:34pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Hybrid electric/propane tank-less water heater

To heat 2 gallons of water from 68 degrees to 100 degrees in one minute you need 9390 watts (equal to 9.39Kw / 32040btuh ) The source A 30 amp rig has only 3600 watts and a 50 amp only 12000 I burn about 300 on parasitic loads. See the problem? (and up to 1000 if the batteries are hungry) Clearly I'm not doing it with 120/240 vac. If dry camping, this is a non starter, you will go through all your water in no time.
vegasfoodguy 06/02/19 04:06pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Refriderator replacement

I went to the jc refrigeration website I saw the compressor cooling units Is that an Amish company? I don't see the word Amish anywhere In large letters, right up at the very top of the very first page: "Dutch Aire Amish RV Cooling Units" Yep, the best to work with, replacement units come with 3 year warranty, this can be extended to 6 years for $125.00. I have the gas replacement, works perfect. Terry
vegasfoodguy 04/28/19 08:40pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tahoe to Lassen

I would not go up the West side of the lake. The West side (89) has some real narrow sections and blind switchbacks. Go up on the East side, once you get to Reno you can choose whatever road you want. X2, 89 on west side is usually closed during snow months. Take 88 to 395 and North thru Susanville. Good road, easy drive. Terry.
vegasfoodguy 03/21/19 01:11pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Air Leak UPDATE FIXED!

Hello all. I hope everyone had an enjoyable Christmas. Looking forward to the new year. To end this year, my coach decided to present me with a new problem. One that I need to fix ASAP. When the coach is idling, in drive, I am losing air pressure. Idling in gear at 5mph for a couple blocks and I will lose about 30psi. Driving at speed and the compressor keeps the air up but stopping at traffic lights and I can see the pressure begin to drop. I've blasted what fittings I have found and have located 5 small leaks which I will fix. The sixth is a pinhole in the front air tank so that will have to be replaced. None of these leaks are sufficient to cause the air pressure drop I'm experiencing. Further investigation revealed a possible culprit but I'm not sure how to proceed. With the coach idling, in gear, parking brake set, I can hear air escaping from the door air seal. I assume, (yeah, I know what that means) the air seal allows the psi to drop. What I don't know is how to trouble shoot it. So far, I've found no one that is familiar with how this seal works. I would guess there is a solenoid somewhere that controls it. Again, I assume it would have to be adjustable in order to control the psi to that seal but I could be wrong. I put a call into Monaco but I was 15th in cue so I left a voice mail and am waiting for them to call back. If anyone here who has had a similar problem and can point me in the right direction, that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance....Dennis Dennis, You may want to look into an ultrasonic leak detector. Find on Amazon or Ebay, makes finding the smallest leaks a piece of cake.
vegasfoodguy 12/28/18 05:29pm Class A Motorhomes
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