RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog


RV Sales




RV Parks


RV Club


RV Buyers Guide


Roadside Assistance


Extended Service Plan


RV Travel Assistance


RV Credit Card


RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'way2roll' found 638 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 32  
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Telamarketer

My favorite response to scam phone calls is to answer; "It's done but there's blood everywhere"
way2roll 04/20/21 06:20am Around the Campfire
RE: Supplemental brake locked up - at the wrong time.

I just finished installing the Readybrake cable and breakaway cable on my Ford Edge, and can't see any way for that to happen except for someone/thing pulling on the breakaway cable. My cables come out well above the front airdam. If yours are down that low sounds like improper installation. Agreed. I did the installation on the base plates myself but when the cables came the car was in the shop anyway so I asked them to do it. Wasn't happy at all with how they did it. The emergency breakaway was completely exposed under the car. A myriad of things could hit it - like the curb in my DW's example. Still scratching my head as to how it could lock up a day later - after driving for a few miles but I am guessing that had something to do with it.
way2roll 04/19/21 03:00pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Supplemental brake locked up - at the wrong time.

If this is the ReadyStop system from NSA, the only way I can see it locking up the brakes without being pulled on from the front breakaway loop would be if the ReadyBrute/ReadyBrake applied the brakes and somehow the ReadyStop cable became jammed where it passes through the firewall. The ReadyStop cable is not in a casing like the ReadyBrake cable and there should be at least 3"-4" of slack in it between the brake peddle and the locking device. The slack should be wire tied where it can't be snagged by any moving parts of the vehicle. It is the ready brake system. That's what's weird, when I disconnected and pulled the cable through the firewall there was no resistance. I didn't try both ways though. But like I said, the red unit, was totally frozen. The release button wouldn't work. I do recall it getting worse as I applied the brakes, so I guess it's totally possible that applying the brakes pushed the cable through the unit and it wouldn't come back. But there is no conduit the cable slides in to enable this to happen easily - pushing a chain up a hill comes to mind. The main cable has such a sleeve. I would still consider that a failure on the part. I see the new ones have a grease zerk, mine does not. Very possible it simply rusted and froze up after these years and we live near the shore where salt air accelerates corrosion. No one was hurt, thank goodness and a few minute fix. If I ever tow it again I'll just have to reinstall a new one. Just very weird it happened out of the blue and behaved like a breakaway. Is it possible someone pulled the cable - like a kid or something while we were parked somewhere? Doesn't explain why the release wouldn't work though. And doesn't explain why it didn't do it while leaving our neighborhood until we got out on the main road. I will probably never know the root cause. Thank goodness I figured out what happened. Initially I thought it was a seized caliper and was ready to call a tow truck. On edit: Something else that was odd, the main supplemental brake cable was apparently pulled also, so hard in fact that it snapped the cable at the brake pedal. Must have taken some serious force to do that. DW tells me sort of casually that parking the other day she scraped the bottom of the front spoiler on a curb. Lightbulb! I guess it's possible this caught both cables and pulled them taught. Still doesn't explain why the breakaway decided to wait to some random time a day later to engage and not let go, but it does add a piece to the puzzle and probably explains the snapped primary cable.
way2roll 04/19/21 11:50am Dinghy Towing
Supplemental brake locked up - at the wrong time.

Our CRV has been set up to tow since 2013. I installed a cable actuated supplemental brake system with breakaway. I went with this system because we have the ready brute elite tow bars with integrated mechanical brake. Initially we had a MH and towed it pretty much wherever we went. We recently bought a truck and FW but I never removed the base plates, wiring or supplemental brake with breakaway. I figured I might tow it again one day if we ever go back to MH or it's convenient that if it ever breaks down I can tow the car myself with my truck. Anyway, over the weekend we are driving to go out to dinner and the car started slowing abruptly. We were able to pull into a parking lot and into a spot just about the time that car was unable to move. Upon inspection the emergency breakaway just decided to completely seize up. The release button did nothing and I had to disassemble the thing to get the car to move. I have since removed it completely. No idea why it decided to fail. Could have been catastrophic if we were on the interstate. Could have been lack of use - we haven't towed in about 2 years, but it seems like a pretty critical failure that shouldn't just happen despite lack of use. The way it's engineered is that it has to be pulled to activate. That didn't happen. Anyone ever have this happen? If I glean anything from this is that periodic maintenance and checks are critical, but I never thought it would fail on it's own being dormant.
way2roll 04/19/21 06:59am Dinghy Towing
RE: Significant impact on RVing!!

Not sure how this is an impact to "freedom". You are still free to go. Covid has impacted a million things, Camping being one of them. When conventional travel became difficult and more people worked from home, people bought campers. This has impacted just about every park, not just national parks. Due to the influx of people, what would you have the parks do? Too many people ruins the experience and to some extent the park itself, not to mention there just aren't enough sites. If you plan on going, make reservations. Not much different than any place else you might go. If and when things return to normal, lots of folks will sell their campers and things won't be so crowded. Until then, it is what it is. But the sky isn't falling and your freedom isn't being threatened. This isn't personal.
way2roll 04/16/21 09:13am Fifth-Wheels
RE: What do you use for an outdoor ground cover?

Maybe you need to get a camper with a built in deck so you don't get too close to the ground at campsites. Must be hell going from the tv to the camper. What joy do you get posting a completely unhelpful and critical reply in response to a legitimate question? What's missing in your life that you feel the need to play keyboard cowboy? To the OP, we use a cheap outdoor mat from Lowes. After a season or two they get pretty beat up and we replace so we don't spend a lot of money. They are in the outdoor patio section. As others have said we don't put them on grass, but a lot of state parks we visit have very fine gravel and stone dust and this easily gets tracked into the RV. A mat sure does help. Helps a great deal in sand as well.
way2roll 04/16/21 07:50am General RVing Issues
RE: Dangerous Pranks

After my RV's door latch failed (the mechanism that retrieves the latch broke so I couldn't open it from the inside or the outside), I was glad I had a class C so I could just use the chassis door to get in. If I were out in the wilderness in a single door RV, I'd have had to break a window to get in, . Your RV should have escape windows that open without breaking them. On edit, I re-read and see you were trying to get in ,not out. Ignore :-)
way2roll 04/15/21 08:13am General RVing Issues
RE: Lights on a bicycle carrier

I noticed the same thing on my Swagman (especially if the bikes are covered) and good for you for taking notice and asking. There are lots of small plug and play lights that you can mount to make them visible. I would imagine a lot of the newer ones are LED so smaller and brighter. I just used an old magnetic tow light set I already had. I think I paid $30 at Lowes.
way2roll 04/14/21 06:44am General RVing Issues
RE: Price differences in water filters

SHRED - seems you have a few threads going on the same topic. First question - what do you want to filter? Chlorine, Chloramine, dissolved solids, fluoride, Gen X (Teflon), Bacteria etc. An RO cares for all that, but as I mentioned in my other post they are not really practical for RV use. That was my plan, but water usage, waste water, PSI requirements, space and winterization lead me the conclusion that residential RO systems are not practical for RV's. Usually 2 stage filters are the best approach. First stage is a particulate filter for water entering the RV. This can be in line in the hose. This really protects your plumbing more than anything. It's a sacrificial filter and easy and cheap to replace the cartridges. You can use an in line or whole house particulate and carbon block dual set up, better but not perfect. Single in-line filters at the sink are usually carbon/charcoal and remove the smell and taste of chlorine. I haven't seen any claim that they actually remove the molecules completely, but enough to mitigate smell and taste. They won't remove Chloramine which is widely used as an alternative to Chlorine in many municipal systems. To remove chloramine you need catalytic carbon - very expensive unless you are using RO. Finally, if you want pure drinking water that removes every contaminant and left with plain H20, you need RO. But again, under sink RO systems are not practical for RV use. To me, the Berkey was the perfect compromise. RO water without all the plumbing. The downside is filling it, moving it etc. But for an RV, it's a decent solution to good water. The obvious difference in what you want to filter in your house vs an RV, is that the water supply for an RV changes every time you go somewhere different. Not all public systems are treated the same and contaminants and water quality will be different at every location. That's the primary reason for an RO alternative. It will remove everything, every time. Single, in line filters don't. But again, some people don't care. That's why I asked - what do you want to filter? How clean do you want your drinking and cooking water to be? There's an option for every level of filtration, from basic particulates to all contaminants, and everything in between.
way2roll 04/13/21 06:32am General RVing Issues
RE: Under the sink water filtration

Our truck camper came from the factory with an under-sink filter and extra spigot. We use it all the time and wouldn’t be without it. When you say filter, what do you mean? Is this an single in line filter and what does it filter? (Chlorine, Chloramine, dissolved solids, particulates, etc). Most single in line filters like the Culligan RV-EZ-3 contain a particulate carbon filter that in their own words: "for the aesthetic reduction of Chlorine Taste and Odor" Certainly better than plain tap water but limited in what they actually filter. That's why I asked the OP to clarify, what do you want to filter?
way2roll 04/12/21 11:05am General RVing Issues
RE: Under the sink water filtration

Depends on what you want to filter. I have long been a fan of under sink RO systems. I actually install them for people as a side line in my spare time. They work great for residential use, but that's a point not to miss. I had every plan to install an RO in our FW and after much deliberation changed my mind. They aren't very practical for RV use for a few reasons. They require a particular flow rate and PSI that a CG or your onboard water pump may not be able to provide. They produce waste water and the cheaper the unit the greater the amount but this can be as much as 2:1 gallons of RO to waste water. This means all that unused/untreated water end up in your grey tank. And if you are using onboard water you are using that and your pump to feed the RO and subsequently waste that water. They would have to be secured to keep them from moving, they take up a pretty much the whole cabinet so space is a consideration. They can't really be winterized so it would have to be removed to avoid freezing. I could go on and on. I just decided it wasn't practical for an RV. Instead I am looking at Berkey gravity fed RO systems. No plumbing at all. The downside is you have to fill it and wait for the water, but much, much less hassle in an RV.
way2roll 04/12/21 10:11am General RVing Issues
RE: How to get a loan for RV

Seems Et Cetera has left the building.
way2roll 04/10/21 11:35am Beginning RVing
RE: Adding washer and dryer to FW

Lots of reading on this and there doesn't seem to be anything special about Splendide W/D units that are any different than any other except they are made in Italy and marketed almost exclusively for RV's. Lots of manufacturers putting other brands in RV's without issue. The Splendide specs say to remove the packing supports and re-install prior to moving, just like any other W/D. Does anyone do this? And I haven't heard of anyone with an apartment or residential units having issues from travel. Again, I think "RV Specific" is a marketing tool in this case. If Spendide were to go out of business tomorrow I am sure that any manufacturer would be installing LG or some other brand the next day. The same used to be said for Fridges and TV's - they had to be RV specific for the rigors of travel. And here we are.
way2roll 04/09/21 08:28am General RVing Issues
RE: Adding washer and dryer to FW

Why wouldn't you get this? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Magic-Chef-24-in-2-7-cu-ft-Front-Load-Compact-Washer-in-White-MCSFLW27W/308910839 Just put it in my TT and it's awesome. I think I'll use that over a traditional washer/dryer in a house if/when I buy a house again. Thanks! That seems to be in the same line of thinking. I think "RV Specific" washer and dryers are a bit like "Rv specific" toilet paper. Sure they are designed and work in an RV, but so will cheaper non RV specific ones. I just can't fathom a reason why any 120V washer and dryer wouldn't work if I have the space to fit them. And we don't travel full time to justify a full size. An apartment size will not only fit better but be lighter weight. Although I do expect their performance to be a bit less than residential ones. Anyway, I appreciate the link, if anyone has any other models they like, send 'em over.
way2roll 04/09/21 07:03am General RVing Issues
RE: How to get a loan for RV

I don't want to judge or pile on but I agree that something about all this doesn't add up. You can go through life figuring out ways how not do things, or figure out ways how to do them. This isn't that difficult given the facts provided. But maybe not all the facts have been provided. You control your credit. And while I applaud you for all your charitable donations, sounds like you've left yourself charitable. You've been talking about variations of this plan since last year. In that time you could have saved enough to buy a TT and executed your plan. Although I still don't see how Buying a TT, and either buying land or staying in campgrounds is an easier or cheaper life than an apartment. And while it sounds romantic, is that the right environment for you and your son? Maybe the trauma of divorce has left you with a bit of a mid life crisis and you are searching for something..Perhaps the reason your plan has eluded you to this point, is that it's not a well thought out plan.
way2roll 04/09/21 06:37am Beginning RVing
RE: Adding washer and dryer to FW

What makes a washer or dryer "RV-specific?" They operate on 120VAC and will fit in the space you have. We have Whirlpool stackables (vented dryer) since our fiver has a dedicated W/D closet designed for that configuration (and it's on the opposite side from the heaviest slides). Rob That's kind of the point to my question. Any W/D that fits the space and is 120V should work. Doesn't have to be a Splendid or some other "RV specific" machine. They cost over $1k for each. I can get an apartment or residential unit that runs on 120V for 1/3 that price. The space it fits I can be fairly flexible. It's in a closet that I can remove shelves etc as needed.
way2roll 04/08/21 11:12am General RVing Issues
RE: How to get a loan for RV

I vaguely remember your story about buying some land or something around the DC to put an RV. Lots of RV dealers near the DC metro area. I have purchased RV's from Leos' and Chesaco is pretty large. There's a CW in Fredericksburg. Google is your friend here. I get it there are lots of dealerships, I am trying to get a reference for a good one instead of blindly trying one. Read reviews - again google is your friend here. I don't want to sound snarky but a lot of your questions can be answered in a matter of minutes with a little research, a few phone calls and trips to a few dealers. Don't borrow trouble and make things more complicated than they are. I would avoid CW as they seem to have a bad reputation. I like Leo's but that was over a decade ago when I bought from them. Frankly I couldn't care less where I buy an RV from as long as I get the deal I want. Warranty and post sale service it where it matters and you can take your Rv to any dealer that services that brand even if you didn't buy it there. With low credit scores you are less likely to win at driving a hard bargain. Doesn't mean you can't try. I feel a little condescending spelling this out but; 1 - Get a free copy of your credit report from equifax, you can sign up to get free updates on any credit activity and updates real time via email and check your score at any time. 2 - Read google reviews of dealerships in your area 3 - Pick a dealer and visit them 4 - Shop Rv's 5 - If you like one, ask them to run a soft pull to see if you qualify to buy it - Rinse and repeat 2-5 until you buy. Easy.
way2roll 04/08/21 09:37am Beginning RVing
Adding washer and dryer to FW

Our FW is prepped for a washer and dryer so I am thinking of adding them. In shopping for RV specific (not sure what makes it RV specific) they are expensive. So I started looking at apartment style W/D at big box stores. I don't want stackable as the I think the weight distribution needs to be spread out. The outlets are for 120V. Is there any reason why models like this wouldn't work? Washer dryer For the vent it looks like I need this: vent kit
way2roll 04/08/21 08:23am General RVing Issues
RE: How to get a loan for RV

I vaguely remember your story about buying some land or something around the DC to put an RV. Lots of RV dealers near the DC metro area. I have purchased RV's from Leos' and Chesaco is pretty large. There's a CW in Fredericksburg. Google is your friend here. Loan qualifications are pretty pragmatic. Find an RV you think you can afford based on your income and approach a bank. All they can do is say no. Dealers probably have the best access to lenders to suit a variety circumstances. Go to a dealership, find something you like and run a credit check - ask for a soft pull. Pretty easy. Seems like there is a lot of swirl around this that is unnecessary. Go to a dealership and find out. very easy to get the answers you are looking for.
way2roll 04/07/21 01:15pm Beginning RVing
RE: How to get a loan for RV

Do you own a house? We took out a HELOC at a very low rate and used that to buy our trailer. Paid it off in less than 3 years. Rates are so stinking low right now for mortgages it's even more beneficial than it was 6 years ago when we did it. Home equity line of credit is a great tool when rates are low to buy things like RV's. A few things to keep in mind. Lenders usually won't ever let you borrow more than 80% of the value of your home. So a HELOC's amount is determined by an appraisal. The amount of the appraisal x 80% (minus the amount of outstanding debt in your current mortgage) = the amount available to borrow. Example: if your house appraises at $200k, 80% is $160k - this is the total amount of debt you can have against your home. If you owe $100k on a mortgage, then the maximum amount left for a HELOC is $60k. The other thing to note, is that a HELOC is essentially a second mortgage in addition to your first mortgage and must be paid off if you ever sell your home. Using the scenario above, if you sold your home for $200k, you walk away with $40k - not $100k. (actually by the time you pay the realtor and associated fees - your net would probably be more like $20-25k) Some of this might be old news to a lot of you, but I talk to a lot of people who don't even know what a HELOC is let alone the implications of getting one.
way2roll 04/07/21 06:50am Beginning RVing
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 32  

New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2021 CWI, Inc. © 2021 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.