RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Search

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'waynefi' found 45 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 3  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: New to the RV World - Towing Mirrors Recommendation

I’ve had good luck with the Milenco mirrors that clamp onto the normal mirrors. Before that, I tried several strap on ones. They had lots of vibration, and the straps would loosen up as I drove, so I had to check the tightness at each rest stop.
waynefi 08/26/19 09:21am Travel Trailers
RE: propane campstove

Here’s what we’ve decided to do: We have a 1 burner induction electric cooktop. When we need a second burner, we will use our Coleman 2 burner campstove. We will keep the window open, and move our propane/CO monitor into the kitchen. Seems safe enough.
waynefi 08/25/19 12:51pm Tech Issues
propane campstove

Our propane campstove has lots of warnings about not using it in an enclosed space, like an RV or a home. Why would a propane campstove produce more CO than a propane RV stove? Or, for that matter, a propane stove at home? Our home electric range needs repair, and we are trying to figure out our options in the meantime. Cooking in the RV is one of them, but that’s a lot of walking in and out.
waynefi 08/23/19 03:31pm Tech Issues
RE: Replacing a propane pigtail

Can you provide the Amazon link for the one that worked for you? I'm thinking about replacing mine. The one I got is aShinestar 12in RV propane connector. This is an inverted flare connector. I think that the way you tell them from an NPT is that looking into the end of the connection, the tube walls are beveled, not straight pipe. On the one I had trouble with, the leak was between the brass on the end of the pigtail and the brass on the regulator.
waynefi 08/13/19 07:16pm Tech Issues
RE: Replacing a propane pigtail

I took the leaky one back and exchanged it for another of the same brand. It also leaked. So I returned that and ordered from Amazon. That one does not leak. The original, from an RV dealer, cost $30 for one, and leaked. From Amazon, it was $15 for two, and no leak.
waynefi 08/13/19 09:52am Tech Issues
RE: Replacing water tank

The dealer gave me a $500 rough estimate (300 labor 200 for the tank.) I am trying the JB Water Weld approach. So far, so good. I have filled the tank and run the pump through a couple cycles, and it is holding. Now I just need to tow it over a few potholes.
waynefi 08/08/19 05:06pm Travel Trailers
RE: Replacing a propane pigtail

Do the fittings look identical in shape as to the mating surfaces that seal together? That is the replacement hose should look identical to the old hose. Use no sealant tape right? I believe most common is the inverted flare but some could be NPT threads. Yes, the old and new ones look identical. No sealant tape. The box the new one came has no instructions at al about screwing it in.
waynefi 08/07/19 08:20pm Tech Issues
Replacing a propane pigtail

The pigtail to one of my propane tanks has cracks in the hose, so I want to replace it. When I put in the new one, it flunks the soap bubble test. There are bubbles between the brass fitting on the end of the hose and the brass fitting on the regulator. The new one’s package reads “RV Thermo Pigtail 1/4” Inverted Flare”. If I switch back to the old one, it works fine. Is there some trick to changing these?
waynefi 08/07/19 03:14pm Tech Issues
RE: Replacing water tank

I think my next move is to talk to the dealer and see what they would do , and what it would cost. I'm not sure that I trust a patch, and in any case, if the plastic cracked because it is old and brittle, it may do it again. If the dealer wants an arm and a leg because they have to lift the floor, then I'll try a patch.
waynefi 08/02/19 11:13am Travel Trailers
RE: Truck power to trailer

OK, I tried a couple of more experiments. The trailer has been plugged in for weeks. Unplug, open the battery cutoff, let it sit for a few minutes. Voltage at battery 12.9. Connect the truck, close the battery cutoff, voltage at battery 13.7. Voltage at truck battery 14.1, so I still have a 0.4 drop. The time I got 13.2 at the trailer battery I didn't measure the voltage at the truck battery. I had just been driving the truck, so if it's charger voltage drops down after being driven a while, it could have been lower. The 13.8 measurement was earlier, while I didn't have any connection at all. A later experiment, with the battery disconnected. At truck battery 13.88. At trailer battery terminals with nothing on but the propane detector, 13.83. Turn on the bathroom fan, it drops to 13.69. So there is still a fair amount of resistance there.
waynefi 08/02/19 11:07am Tech Issues
RE: Replacing water tank

With the bolts out, can the cross rail move sideways enough to drop one end, then then other or are the ends sitting on the top of the bottom flange up against the center web? The ends are up against the center web, and screwed into it. I tried removing the screws even though I can't see how it will work, and hit another problem. One of the screws is so obstructed that I can't get any tool I have onto it. The tank is in position to block any kind of socket wrench. The bottom of the I beam blocks an open end wrench. The space between the bottom of the I beam and a wire bundle is too small for a ratcheting box wrench. I think they put the tank in before they put the floor down. A plastic welder or some kind of glue is looking better all the time.
waynefi 08/01/19 10:12am Travel Trailers
RE: Replacing water tank

Take the bolts out the rails swing down tank drops out . save a lot of time and go to harbor freight get a plastic welder and weld the crack shut The rails are sitting on top of the I beam, so I don’t see how they can swing down. However, the plastic welder might do the trick.
waynefi 07/31/19 04:45pm Travel Trailers
RE: Truck power to trailer

Yes, the 7-pin charging is at low amps, so not much gets done while driving. IMO something is not quite right about the voltage numbers, but hard to tell. Nothing to stop going camping whatever it might be. I agree that it's not a big problem. Coming back from our last trip, we had three days of dry camp for one night, drive 300 miles. So if I could get even 5 amps of charging for a 6 hour drive, that would replace most of what we used. (We don't use a lot).
waynefi 07/31/19 12:31pm Tech Issues
Replacing water tank

My fresh water tank has a leak, so I am trying to replace it, but I can't figure out how to get the old one out. There are two side-to-side rails in the front and rear of the tank. The back one is screwed into the trailer frame. The front one looks more permanent. There are two lengthwise rails that have tabs that drop into slots in the sideways rails. So the obvious thing is to lift the lengthwise ones, then slide the back rail back. But I can't lift the tank, because it is up against the bottom of the trailer. I can't move the back rail with the tabs still in place. So how do I get the tank out? Has anyone else seen this arrangement?
waynefi 07/31/19 12:25pm Travel Trailers
RE: Truck power to trailer

Good work. However, note that the full battery should read 12.7ish not connected. The truck is at 13.8. When connected the full trailer battery would be say 13.7ish (allowing for line loss). If it only goes up by 0.2v that means it is not full. The battery voltage went up from 13.0 to 13.2. It had been on a charger recently, so 13.0 isn’t too surprising. I’m interpreting the 13.2 to mean that there is still resistance in the 7 pin. or wires to it. The reason I’m trying all this is to figure how much charging I get from a day of towing. The answer seems to be “not very much”, but that it depends a lot on how clean the connectors are.
waynefi 07/31/19 11:03am Tech Issues
RE: Truck power to trailer

Apparently this was just the 7 pin not making contact. A spray of contact cleaner, some sandpaper, and several cycles of plug/unplug solved the problem. The truck now turns on the lights without the battery, and with the battery in the voltage at the battery goes up by 0.2 v (with the battery fully charged).
waynefi 07/30/19 12:34pm Tech Issues
RE: Truck power to trailer

What is the trailer battery voltage with the 7-pin disconnected? Do the lights and fans work with the trailer battery connected, but the 7-pin disconnected? Need to find out if the 7-pin pos is before or after the DC circuit breaker by the battery pos post before blaming that breaker (or it might be a fuse) since the battery voltage did not rise. (You said the lights don't work with the battery disconnected, which is to be expected.) Check the voltage at the 7-pin of the trailer cord (that goes in the truck's) That should be the same as the trailer battery's voltage. If none, find the wires from the trailers 7-pin cord that go onto the battery and see if they are connected to the battery. The ground wire of that cord might not be grounded to the trailer's frame. The positive (pin #4 wire) might join in with another pos wire, and then that wire has a fuse before going onto the battery pos post. With the 7 pin disconnected, and battery connected, everything works fine. Battery voltage is 12.7, and voltage at the 7 pin is the same. If there is a blown fuse, why is there voltage at the 7 pin? It seems like there should be a fuse between the 7 pin and the battery, but if so it is well hid. With the trailer battery disconnected at the battery, and the 7 pin plugged in with the truck running, , shouldn’t the truck power the lights? I’ve been trying to avoid pulling the power panel out to look for more fuses and connections behind it, but I may have to do that.
waynefi 07/26/19 04:21pm Tech Issues
Truck power to trailer

One of the pins on the 7 pin connector is supposed to supply power to the trailer. Mine doesn’t seem to be working. If I measure the voltage at the battery, it does not go up at all when I connect the truck. If I disconnect the battery, with the truck connected and running, the trailer inside lights will not come on. With the trailer disconnected, the voltage at the truck connector is 13.8. What would stop the voltage from getting through? I don’t see any blown fuses.
waynefi 07/26/19 02:40pm Tech Issues
RE: Slide out motor problem

Unfortunately, I can’t get to the back side. The solution may be to screw the motor to a plate of some kind and then screw it to the wall with more than four screws.
waynefi 07/14/19 04:58pm Tech Issues
RE: Tracfone users on ATT Towers Pay attention

This does explain something. DW and I both have Tracfones, Both are Motorola phones that we bought unlocked. Hers is newer than mine. There are many places where I have a signal and she does not.
waynefi 07/14/19 12:30pm Technology Corner
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 3  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2019 CWI, Inc. © 2019 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved. | Terms of Use | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS