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 > Your search for posts made by 'willald' found 19 matches.

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RE: Do you leave MH plugged in for power at home?

Have always done that in one form or another. As previously noted, you'll need to verify you have a converter that won't overcharge your batteries. Regardless what converter you have, its a good idea to keep an eye on your batteries water/acid level and occasionally top it off when its plugged in all the time. When I lived in an apartment temporarily about 2 years ago and could not keep it plugged up to power, I had to make it a point to crank up the generator and run it for an hour or two about once a week to keep the batteries charged. If I did not, the house batteries would drain and have issues. Every house I've owned (total of 3 now), one of the first things I've done is had an electrician install an RV outlet for the Motorhome. We just moved last month back to NC, and just had a 30 amp outlet installed at the new house here. Would have preferred a 50 amp like had at the previous house in Georgia, but that proved way too costly. If you just want to keep the batteries charged and won't need to run air conditioners inside, then there is no need to install a 30 or 50 amp outlet - You can just use adapters to plug into a regular 110V outlet. Did that for a while, too, before I got the RV outlet installed. However, here in the South where it gets really hot in the summer, I like to be able to run the air conditioners when loading/unloading the Motorhome or working on stuff inside it, in which case you need a 30 or 50 amp outlet.d
willald 06/11/20 07:33am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Bicycle Rack

Problem we found with attaching them to the back (or front) of the Motorhome is, sometimes we like to be able to take the bikes places with the towed vehicle. Didn't want to be tied to only carrying the bikes with the Motorhome. That, and if you look carefully at the fine print, most hitch mounted bike racks are not even recommended/warrantied to be used on the back of an RV, due to all the bouncing that takes place back there. I seem to recall there is only one or two makes out there that support this use. For a while, I did use a hitch mounted rack and attached it to the back of the towed vehicle (Ford Fusion at the time). That didn't work too good for us, either. Hated how trunk access was taken away. Last straw for it was one time we hit a large bump that snapped the bikes around so bad, the strap connecting the rack to the trunk lid jerked so hard it twisted the trunk lid and caused some pretty major damage (trunk lid had to be replaced). Fortunately, insurance covered the damage, but that was the end of my days using hitch mounted racks. I ditched the hitch receiver bike rack for good, and went with a Yakima roof mounted system. Now, we carry our bikes on top of the towed vehicle. Can carry up to 4 bikes this way if I need to, and can be just about ANY kind of bicycle. Roof rack can be used to carry several other things, too, if the need arises (kayaks, storage bins to name a few). Yes, this approach is more expensive, but you can minimize the cost by buying many of the parts on Craigs List or Ebay slightly used. I saved several hundred $$ going that route. And, when towed vehicle (Ford Fusion) was totaled in an accident a few years ago and we were forced to replace it, the roof rack fit perfectly on the new towed vehicle (Taurus) that replaced the Fusion. Now, bikes don't touch (scrape against) each other or anything else, are held in place by the wheel only. Completely out of the way, and very easy to take down and put up. And no more (or at least nowhere near as much) bouncing around for the bikes. I highly, highly recommend you at least look into this approach. It works great for us.
willald 02/05/20 07:40am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dually valve extenders

Nothing wrong with the braided extensions, as long as you make sure and get ones that are AIRLESS. Meaning, no air pressure in the extension except when you attach a gauge or air hose. If you scroll back you will see where I posted "one worked one did not".. Guess what. they were airless types. I'm curious as to specifically what you meant when you said that one of the braided extensions did not work? By did not work, did you mean that it leaked out air? If so, I'm really curious how, as if they are truly airless, there is no air in them to leak out? They could work themselves completely loose, or even fall completely off, and still no air can leak as there isn't any air pressure in them except when you put a gauge or hose on it?
willald 01/15/20 08:10am Class A Motorhomes
RE: "Leather" coming apart and peeling

This issue isn't specific to Fleetwood. Our 2012 Forest River Georgetown (see signature) did exact same thing after just a few years. We had an upholstery shop re-upholster both captain's chairs, the sofa, and the recliner a few years ago. Went with a really nice leather material they recommended. Was not cheap, but was much cheaper than replacing it all, and it worked out really nice. No more peeling, and the new material is much nicer. Real happy with it now. No, manufacturer (Forest River) would not help us out. Nor did I expect them to. Hated having to spend all that $$ for reupholstery on a unit that was only a few years old, but is what it is, I guess.
willald 01/15/20 07:56am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A crash

Wow....Always amazes and scares me with how little it takes to make these things absolutely disintegrate. Makes me consider going back to a towable RV, where at least my most precious cargo (passengers) are in a truck with a steel cage surrounding them, much better protected in the case of a wreck. At any rate, it may well be that that RV driver was at fault here. However, can we have a little bit of respect, compassion for the man? His beautiful, very new looking RV just got totaled, is a big mess, and he is fortunate to walk away with his life. We don't need to be calling him a 'idiot driver' or throwing other insults. I'd say he's paid dearly enough (and will pay) for his mistake(s). He doesn't need anyone adding to it by insulting him on public forums. Its so easy to call the other guy 'idiot' and everything else when things like this happen on the road, but reality is we ALL make mistakes from time to time. Not a one of us are perfect. Any one of us could make the same mistakes this guy did, and find ourselves in a similar predicament. If it was you or someone close to you that got distracted or whatever and had a bad wreck like this, you'd see this very differently.
willald 01/10/20 01:15pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Car Trailer behind a class A MH

2900 lbs tongue weight, and trailer costs $20,000... That, is a rich man's toy, that is not very practical for most of us (those that can't afford a Prevost or similar coach that can handle that much tongue weight). You could set up half a dozen different towed vehicles for flat towing, buy a new tow bar setup for each one of them, and STILL be money ahead from what that trailer would cost. Cool concept, but I'll stick to flat towing, thank you very much.
willald 01/10/20 11:48am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dually valve extenders

Nothing wrong with the braided extensions, as long as you make sure and get ones that are AIRLESS. Meaning, no air pressure in the extension except when you attach a gauge or air hose. With those, it doesn't matter if the extension works loose, you won't lose any air since there is no air in them (extensions) to lose. I've been using those for years, they work great. Have used the Borg dually solid valve stem replacements, too. Never could understand why, but they intermittently leaked air soo much, I finally gave up on them and went back to the braided extensions. Never a problem again. The U shaped ones that Borg makes for the outer duals work great, but something about those looong stem valves for the inner, they just would not hold air. I'd recommend extensions, as long as you make sure whatever extensions you get are airless.
willald 01/10/20 11:20am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Any experience towing a Ford CMax Hybrid?

I towed a 2013 Ford Fusion Hybrid for several years. It is very similar to the C-max hybrid, has pretty much same drivetrain. I will echo DouglasC's comments - Ford hybrid vehicles tow great, it worked great for us. Very simple to tow, just basically hitch it up, throw it in neutral and go. I actually kind of miss my Fusion, may well get another one in the future (currently tow a Ford Taurus). Just a few things to keep in mind about towing a Ford hybrid vehicle: 1. For whatever reason, there is significant draw on the battery when towing these Ford hybrids. Maybe the Cmax is different, but there is a good chance that as part of your wiring, you may have to wire a charge line to the battery. Very simple to do, is a good idea regardless, and will solve this problem completely. 2. With the hybrid Fusion we had, electric power braking is on all the time, and will be on when towing. Meaning, the brake pedal will be easy to push down even when towing with engine off. Not really an issue, and depending on what brake system you chose, it can be really good. Its just something you need to keep in mind when choosing, setting up your supplemental brake system. Anyway, good luck with it. I think you'll like it. :)
willald 12/30/19 07:23am Dinghy Towing
RE: Almost lost a mud flap...

...Update, and somewhat of a conclusion to this, finally: Last Saturday, I got out the drill, mud flap, and finally got this taken care of. Was really a 2 minute job - take took some measurements, mark where holes should be, drill the 3 new holes, and mount the mud flap back like it was. Ended up using existing mud flap and just turning it 180 degrees and drilling new holes on the edge that used to be pointing down. Worked fine. Not sure if they use different material for mud flaps on RVs vs larger trucks, but I had no issue whatsoever drilling the holes. No burning hot drill bit, no dulled drill bit, no melted rubber, none of that here. Drill bit went right through mud flap like butter and right out very easily. It seemed mud flaps were made from hard plastic more so than rubber, so was very easy. I know exactly where, how I backed up over a curb and caused this. Was the first time backing the Motorhome in the driveway of new house just moved into last March. Over shot the driveway slightly and climbed the curb with the passenger side rear wheels. Only did that once, the first time, but once was enough. Will try very hard not to make that mistake again.
willald 12/26/19 01:57pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Almost lost a mud flap...

Cherry red, do 2 holes, and heat it again..... ...You get the threaded rod 'cherry red' hot?! Yikes! How you get it that hot? Sounds like a good way to burn yourself really, really bad! I'll sacrifice 3 or 4 drill bits before I risk getting burnt that bad. I'm going to guess with the kind of work you did for years with heavy trucks, you were used to working with stuff that hot all the time and know how to do it without burning yourself. I'd almost certainly get burnt/branded if I tried something like that. Still, thanks for all your insight. Definitely learned a few things from this (like to avoid backing up over a curb!)
willald 10/22/19 08:41am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Almost lost a mud flap...

Warning! Drilling is not hard, but it will heat a bit to the point it can not be sharpened. I ground a dull point on a piece of half inch all-thread about a foot long, put a piece of PCV pipe between nuts on the other end. Lay the flap on 2Xs with a gap where you want the hole. Heat the point, and shove it thru the flap, nice round hole for the 3/8 bolt. What? Synthetic rubber hard enough to heat and ruin a drill bit? Really? Yes, the good flaps are about half inch thick. After the cut, the rubber has more friction on the bit than steel. A half inch bit will leave a hole that fits tight on a 3/8 bolt. You can use or ignore what I say, cost me the same. But I have mounted a lot of mudflaps in about 35 years of working trucks. Wow, never would've thought that rubber from mud flaps could heat a drill bit up like this! Thanks for the heads up, JRScooby. Your solution there seems a bit extreme, seems like you'd have to get that piece of all-thread awfully hot to be able to shove it through and cut the hole in the rubber! Not sure I'm going to try that. I think instead, I'll just find an old drill bit I'm not too worried about losing, and use that. I have tons of old drill bits laying around. Will
willald 10/21/19 02:41pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Almost lost a mud flap...

FYI. Mud flaps are not to keep your toad clean. Mud flaps are there for the protection of other vehicles following you. Your rear tires, like those on trucks, pick up rocks and debris from the road and hurl them skyward looking for the windshield of some poor unsuspecting fool using the highway with you. The mud flap normally will direct that downward back toward the pavement.....Dennis ...With several feet of overhang behind the rear axles, and a towed vehicle behind that....I'm having a hard time understanding how debris/rocks thrown upward by the rear tires could hit anything but the underside of the Motorhome or your own towed vehicle. Sooo, not quite following you on how mud flaps would be for protection of vehicles other than your own. If we were talking about a dually pickup or other vehicle with very little rear overhang and not towing anything, I'd agree. That's not really the case, though. Be that as it may, I definitely will be fixing the mud flap before the Motorhome rolls again. We don't have any trips planned for a while, anyway. Will
willald 10/16/19 12:11pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Almost lost a mud flap...

Not rocket surgery. On my trucks, I would punch 4 new holes across the bottom, and 4 a couple inches below the original, so I could just shorten them. Any truck stop should have replacements, with just a little cutting. BTW, most likely you backed up a curb or steep slope, and onto the flap. Yeah, that's what I'm thinking about doing, just drilling a few more holes on existing flap and using it. Not sure replacing is necessary here. Good point about backing up a curb or steep slope. Now that you mention that, think I know just how this happened. Will have to be a bit more careful about that. Will
willald 10/15/19 12:32pm Class A Motorhomes
Almost lost a mud flap...

....on the road, headed out for a long weekend camping trip last weekend. We stop at a rest stop about half way, notice when doing my 'walk around', that one mud flap is barely hanging, one corner dragging the ground, only one of the three bolts still holding it on. We are talking about the mud flaps directly behind the rear wheels. Mud flap had broke off from two of the 3 bolts holding it to the frame, was only hanging by one. I went ahead and removed it completely and threw it in the trunk (towed vehicle), we did without a mud flap on one side for rest of the trip there and all the way home. Didn't seem to affect much (towed vehicle didn't get any dirtier than usual), but obviously don't want to leave it minus one mud flap. Now, the questions: Where to get a replacement mud flap? Most places I've looked only sell the massive mud flaps that go the entire length and attach to receiver. Don't want one of them, just want to replace the one that was behind the (passenger side) rear wheel. Other option is to just rotate the existing, old mud flap 180 degrees, drill 3 new holes in it and mount the mud flap that way. Wouldn't look as pretty, but nobody sees the mud flaps down there behind the wheel, anyway. Thoughts? As always, all suggestions, opinions, etc. are welcome and appreciated. :)
willald 10/15/19 11:20am Class A Motorhomes
RE: MH accident in gas station!

When I see things like this, I prefer not to run down the driver for making such a mistake (especially when I know nothing of the specific circumstances around how it happened). I think he has enough 'consequences' to deal with now without us making it worse by running him (or her) down in a public forum. I just feel sorry for the driver, family. Their beautiful rig, which looks pretty new, is now badly damaged. It may well never be the same again or be worth fixing. Their trip ruined. Not to mention how embarrassing and stressful this was for them. Before we run down the driver for making this mistake (however it happened)....Think of how easily any one of us could have made a similar mistake like this, and how you'd feel about people talking about you on a public forum like some on here are. Not a one of us are perfect, even though we seem to sometimes think we are. Just be thankful you've been fortunate enough to not make such a mistake and have your rig tore up like this!
willald 10/15/19 09:56am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Upholstery needs to be redone

The sofa, recliner, and both captain's chairs in our Motorhome started peeling and looked awful after just a few years. Manufacturer used cheap material that didn't last worth a flip. I opted to have all of them re-upholstered by an Auto upholstery shop. This was a fraction of what it would've cost to replace them, and we ended up with what seems like new furniture. They did an awesome job. I think the trick is in finding a good upholstery shop that knows what they are doing. That was several years ago, and the new upholstery, material is holding up very well. Still looks and feels great.
willald 10/07/19 09:22am General RVing Issues
RE: Where is everyone getting their wiper blades?

Don't recall the length of the blades, but first time I replaced them a year or two ago, I got the replacements at Advance Auto Parts. Last June, driving across Virginia in monsoon of rain, one wiper blade broke off and was thrown (lost). Found a Walmart a few miles down the road, picked up a replacement blade of same length that worked fine. Actually bought two of them while was there, so now keep a spare blade in case it ever 'throws' another one. You can save a TON of $$ by just buying an appropriate sized wiper replacement from an auto part store or Walmart vs. getting an exact replacement from somewhere like Camping World that will rip you off.
willald 09/30/19 08:42am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Valve extenders safe?

I installed the Borg dually valves several years ago when first got our Class A Motorhome 7 years ago. On the inner tires mostly, those long stems leaked and leaked, no matter what I did. Very slow leak, though, was just enough where I always seemed to have to top off the tires by a few pounds before every trip. Had tire shop remove the tire from the rim, check the valve (and seals inside) numerous times, they never could find why it was leaking. Something about those really long valve stems just isn't right, and I found they always leak gradually. One day I finally had had enough with those long dually valve stems and their slow leaking. Had the shop take them off and put on regular valve stems, with AIRLESS braided extensions. Never had a problem again, and I've been using those braided extensions for several years now. I still use the Dually valve U shaped valve stems on the outers, they work fine. However, the long ones for the inners always leaked, so I did away with them. Whatever extension you use, its very important if you use extensions, that they are airless extensions. Airless as in, extensions have no air pressure in them except when you put a gauge or air hose on it. That way, if it works loose, you aren't going to lose any air. I won't use any kind of extension that has air pressure in it all the time. Those are just asking for trouble, IMHO. Not really sure why those Borg dually long valve stems always leaked on the inners, but they did. Is unfortunate, as otherwise those dually valve stems are a great product. They work great for the outer duals.
willald 09/25/19 08:06am General RVing Issues
RE: Transmission is Toast

Glad to hear that Ford is stepping up and fixing it. Have to say, though, that this crazy procedure the Fiesta, Focus, and a few others require that involve disconnecting the battery are precisely why I avoided those vehicles. I don't want any vehicle I have to disconnect the battery on in order to tow. Not when there are so many other good towed vehicle choices out there for similar $$ that don't require that. With my Ford Taurus, all I have to do is run the engine 5 minutes at beginning of the day before towing, run tranny through Drive, Reverse, then to neutral, and its ready to tow up to 65 mph. I always remember that tranny procedure this way - Drive, Reverse, Neutral, as in 'Don't wReck Nothing' (DRN) :)
willald 09/24/19 07:42am Dinghy Towing
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