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Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Seven States to Ban the Sale of Gas Powered Cars in 2035
Perspective
https://www.hotcars.com/most-glaring-problems-with-evs/#evs-still-offer-limited-range
Not sure how to make clicky :(
Use "Reply to Topic", not "Quick Reply". Click on the icon with a globe and chain link. Fill in the boxes.
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wnjj
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03/22/23 09:40am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: EV alternative for light/medium duty trucks
Time for us frogs to jump out of the warming water. The latest report suggests there are only 10 years left to mitigate (not avoid) global climate change.
And when that 10 years expires there will be another 10 year panic clock. This method is nothing new. It’s been going on since at least the early 70’s.
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wnjj
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03/20/23 01:41pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Norcold N611 AC circuit
Yesterday, I noticed a problem with the romex that supplies the AC outlet in the refrigerator's outside access. A small loop of the romex was pressing slightly on a fairly sharp edge of a galvanized sheet metal brace that supports the sheet metal piece that the controls and etc of the refrigerator are mounted to. I looked at the romex, and there is a dark, sharp dent in the plastic outer jacket, maybe leaking current to the sheet metal bracket. I pulled the loop of romex away from the edge, wrapped the dent in electrical tape, and the AC refrigerator heating element is still working since then. I think that fixed the problem.
The link to the Norcold Service Manual is much appreciated.
Thanks to all for the electrical information and the willingness to help!
Thanks for the update. I MISSED where you stated HOW it tripped. A defective Heat element would NOT trip a GFCI unless the refer was turned ON to 120 power. Doug
It certainly could. The neutral side of the element is not switched and if it comes into contact with a grounded surface, the GFCI will trip even with the fridge turned off. This is no different than the neutral portion of the supply Romex touching ground.
GFCI's detect a difference between hot and neutral current OR a short between neutral and ground with no power flowing.
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wnjj
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03/17/23 12:36pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Kitchen stove fan "flap".
14 gauge Romex works perfectly. Just pull the white wire from the bundle. Then glue it along the rib at the edge and stick about 1/4” - 3/8” past the end. You can even bend it slightly to install and it will straighten as you push up on the flap. Ours has been that way for 10 years.
Found a picture:
http://whiz.to/~35chuck/vent_cover.jpg
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wnjj
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02/24/23 11:21am |
Tech Issues
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RE: T-mobile Voice mail
People still have to call in to get voicemail? My current phone has voicemail automatically loaded into the phone as playable sound files including a text translation. Even my previous (other OS) one had an app that let you get voicemail directly. No dialing or password needed.
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wnjj
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02/22/23 06:08pm |
Technology Corner
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RE: Residency and voters rights in South Dakota
Strange so many against democracy and the right to vote. Hell, Walaby wants only land owners to be able to vote. Do I see any hands for a poll tax? Hey we tried that allowing women to vote how is that working? Glad this bunch isn't writing the voting laws.
You’re reading way too much into what Walaby wrote. Residence does not equal land owner and is also a perfectly common sense requirement for voting. How else do you attach one person to one vote? Seems very democratic to me.
We are also a constitutional republic, not a democracy.
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wnjj
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02/18/23 08:28pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Choices in non-basement truck campers?
I not sure what good camper options are out there but would a small travel trailer minus its axles work instead? I’ve seen those on semi tractors before.
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wnjj
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02/15/23 10:23pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: How to keep a TC from being stolen when not on the truck?
I don't worry about it.
It’s not worry, it’s precaution. I lock my truck when I go to a restaurant etc. I lock my house when I leave.
Sure, but you can’t stop someone with a rollback from hauling away your locked truck. That’s more likely than anyone trying to haul away a camper.
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wnjj
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02/03/23 10:27pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: No 110 Volts to Hot Water Heater Element
Your Honda genset has a floating neutral. Your reading between element and frame can be missing leading. For my inverter genset, I made a plug cheater that ties the neutral and ground together. It is inserted into the duplex receptacle.
Great point.
When measuring AC voltages around the water heater, use the other pin on the element as the neutral (the one not connected to the relay/switch/limit switch).
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wnjj
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02/02/23 11:40am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Diesel to Gas Power Observation
I would still like to see side by each comparison, equal weights, displacement, gears, and wind resistance, diesel with exhaust brake to closed throttle on gas engine.
The exhaust brake should outperform the closed throttle. The closed throttle can only pull at most a perfect vaccuum on the top of the piston. The exhaust brake can build a much higher pressure by compressing a full charge of air. More pressure difference = more resistance and more stopping power.
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wnjj
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02/01/23 05:06pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: No 110 Volts to Hot Water Heater Element
Manual. Manual
Yes, there is relay
This is helpful. Look at figure 7 for the AC wiring. The 120V power from the breaker panel connects to the relay. Then when 12VDC is applied to the coil (refer to figure 6), the relay should pass the 120V to the switch. Then once the switch is on, it feeds the hi-limit cutout and finally to the element itself.
If you're comfortable checking with power on measure it at each place, starting with the input to the relay. If you aren't comfortable doing that, find a way to connect the meter while the main power is disconnected and only turn it on long enough to read the meter.
If you suspect the outside switch, try temporarily shorting the pins or better yet pull the wires off the switch terminals and find a way to connect them to each other (with the power off).
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wnjj
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02/01/23 04:56pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Greystone Fireplace - Replacement Circuit Board
Our 5 year old home HVAC blower motor died. When I priced a new one it was $1000. So instead I pulled the end cap off to find a fried MOV and associated circuit board trace. Since this was in December I shorted across it with a wire to get it running and ordered a replacement for $9, most of which was shipping. I then replaced the wire with the new MOV, using the wire lead on it to replace the trace. That was over 5 years ago and still running fine.
If you can get a part number off the blown one, look at Digikey for a new one.
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wnjj
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01/23/23 01:52pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Help - jacks are draining my batteries
Depending on the weight of your camper the amps needed for a 4500lb camera will be between 35-40 amps to raise the camper..
The OP said the batteries are drained from removing the camper, which makes even less sense. Other than the initial lift off the truck bed, most of the time the motors aren't even loaded when running to remove it.
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wnjj
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01/20/23 02:57pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: EV alternative for light/medium duty trucks
LOL,thanks but I can't afford to live in the PNW! Interesting and sad that you think you are able guess my politics by my posts about climate change. Maybe ask yourself why one of our political parties became anti-science.:h
Perhaps because science is so institutionalized that it has become $cience and some people recognize that. Imagine a scientist having a differing opinion about something without consequences. Also, “science” has been completely wrong plenty of times.
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wnjj
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01/19/23 07:42pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Rivian R1S
, never mind the dearth of charging stations up here in the GWN.
https://www.plugshare.com/
Sorry. Not an American. What is GWN.
Thanks.
Probably this.
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wnjj
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01/13/23 02:20pm |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Voltage Drop - NOT Park Problem
Does anyone actually think I've not been measuring voltage during every test or component replacement?
Measuring voltage WHERE?
I've not see you say something like this (with the load on):
I measure 121V at the pedestal.
I measure 119V coming out of the transfer switch.
I measure 118V at the main breaker of the RV sub panel.
I measure 110V at the output of the breaker in the RV sub panel.
I measure 108V at the receptacle.
The above hypothetical numbers would point to an issue with the breaker or connections to it. Notice the larger drop I put in there to illustrate what I am saying? A little drop across each wire and component is normal. If the total drop is larger than you'd expect, one of them should stand out.
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wnjj
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01/06/23 05:22pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Voltage Drop - NOT Park Problem
I think this was mentioned earlier but you need to put a decent load in the RV then measure the voltage at every possible place you can between the source and load. You’ve said the voltage is good at the pedestal and bad at the load. This means there is a resistive connection somewhere. While under load, measure the output side of the breaker the load is connected to in the RV panel. Then measure another one to eliminate the breaker and wiring to the load. Next move upstream to the feeder line, transfer switch, etc.
The problem will be between the last “good” voltage and first “bad” one.
25 amps good enough? Note my last big post. There's nothing left to test; it's all new.
Maybe I'm missing something but I saw a post with various voltage drops measured with increasing loads turned on but not one where you measured multiple places along the same circuit. Your last big post talks about replacing a bunch of stuff. Neither of those addresses my suggestion.
When you have a voltage drop between two end points, there has to be an explanation. If it's simply due to wire size/length it will continuously decrease along the way and as you say it will be normal.
If what you are experiencing is abnormal, there must be someplace causing the drop. Rather than guessing, you should measure the voltage along every specific place you can access between the supply and the load.
You're also a bit all over the place with changing shore power cords and pulling the meter when as you said, the same happens on the generator. So the problem either persists inside your RV, or it's not actually a problem at all and is normal.
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wnjj
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01/06/23 03:19pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: EV alternative for light/medium duty trucks
map40,
Which electric car will go 1500 miles on a single charge?
I took that to mean he’s driven 1500 miles and not had to use a public charger (i.e. round trips from home).
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wnjj
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01/06/23 12:04am |
Tow Vehicles
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RE: Voltage Drop - NOT Park Problem
I think this was mentioned earlier but you need to put a decent load in the RV then measure the voltage at every possible place you can between the source and load. You’ve said the voltage is good at the pedestal and bad at the load. This means there is a resistive connection somewhere. While under load, measure the output side of the breaker the load is connected to in the RV panel. Then measure another one to eliminate the breaker and wiring to the load. Next move upstream to the feeder line, transfer switch, etc.
The problem will be between the last “good” voltage and first “bad” one.
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wnjj
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01/05/23 06:18pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Broken Frame on a RAM 3500
“ Dodge/Rams Body Builder guide allows drilling/welding the main frame rails on '03 and up Dodge/Ram hydroformed frame rails.”
Maybe so (I donno??), but how might this factoid be associated with installation of a Torklift ‘drill thru the frame’ tie-down mount?
3 tons
I suspect you’re on to something here.
Also consider that after 25k miles it broke after driving 55 on roads that according to the owner were “kind of back and forth, and there's dips and stuff”. A cracked frame is likely due to oscillation of the whole load, working the frame until the crack formed. It’s most likely to form at a place like a drilled mount. A bunch of weight sitting over the rear axle does not stress the frame where it broke unless there’s an unholy motion.
My guess is that it could have eventually happened even with a lighter camper on board though you can’t blame Mopar for denying the warranty with an overload truck as I’m sure it contributed.
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wnjj
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12/30/22 10:48pm |
Truck Campers
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