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RE: Both blinkers flash for right and left
I have no issues with cutting holes in the walls of my house to diagnose any issue because I know how ti fix it.
After learning what wires were what and figuring out how to pop off the tail light assembly, I looked at the right one first and it was wired properly. Brown wire (RT) to the red lead.
I take off the left tail light and what do I find? The installer had coupled the red wire (LT) AND the brown wire (RT) together and connected that to the red lead. That explains why both light blinked when either was turned on. Right or left, each was always getting power. Cut the red wires and into a separate connector and it works perfect.
When I started the topic I had no clue about any of this, and you people educated me to the point where I had the knowledge to recognize how it was ****** up when it left the factory.
THANK YOU, THANK YOU. If we are ever in the same campsite, I will offer you a beer!!
Unbelievable that it could go out the door like that but it’s awesome that you figured it out and are more knowledgeable for the “next time”.
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wnjj
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09/22/22 11:53am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Both blinkers flash for right and left
The positions are labeled the same, but the colors are all different; hence you would be putting the wrong color wire on the terminal.
I stand corrected on the color code.
The chart on Etrailer's website is the same as the one Bucky posted. Could Etrailer be wrong?
Etrailer Link
The chart shows what they call “traditional”. Scroll down to the diagrams of the plugs and they show both traditional and RV colors. Personally, traditional makes more sense because it extends the 4-6 pin color scheme and better matches the heavy duty one. I don’t know who thought up the RV color codes. Nevertheless it is what it is and knowing what you’re working with is the most important thing.
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wnjj
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09/22/22 11:48am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Both blinkers flash for right and left
Probably going to require pulling both taillight assemblies and do wire tracing. Somewhere both sides are tied together. Where ever they tied the left taillight to the right taillight they likely also tied the left stoplight to the right stoplight.
Agreed. I would first check up front where the 7-way cable breaks out into individual wires. Some manufacturers do this inside of a little box on the tongue frame.
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wnjj
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09/19/22 02:52pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Both blinkers flash for right and left
Yellow is probably reverse lights, which isn’t wired up on your trailer. Check for a good ground, the lack of which often causes the problem as one side grounds back through the other via the tail light filaments.
The 7-way cord probably follows the “RV standard” shown on this page (scroll down to the pictures): https://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx
Test the trailer itself with the cord unplugged from the truck by jumping from the +12v pin to each of the turn signals with a paper clip.
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wnjj
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09/19/22 12:23am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Wheel Bearings
I don't get all the concern about repacking bearings. OP has 800 miles since serviced. How often do any of you repack the front bearings on your car or truck?
Its the same bearing set up.
Not the same ball game! The front bearings on a car or truck do not see any of the huge side loadings that double axle trailers put on their bearings when they turn or back into a campsite. If the trailer wheels turned like a cars, then the side loadings would not be there and the recommended service interval would likely be much longer than it is now.Really it is about the same. On our class 8 trucks and trailers we would check and service bearings at about 100K miles. True the bearings are bigger but so is the load. I'm not a rookie mechanic as you can tell from my profile and I do believe some folks take the bearing service a little to far.
Sitting a lot where the grease can separate or overloading creating excessive heat are probably the more common issues with trailer bearings. I tend to not worry about bearings generally either.
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wnjj
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08/22/22 07:14pm |
Travel Trailers
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RE: Any issues having slides on both sides?
As others have said, it's generally not a problem with slides on both sides; very few sites (if any) are that narrow to cause an issue. However, keep in mind that a passenger-side slide intrudes into your camping area.
Couldn't a driver's side slide be worse if you had to move the whole trailer over to miss the utility pedestal?
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wnjj
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08/22/22 07:10pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Happijack Swing Out Bolt Removal?
I don’t have these but from pictures it looks like the top of the bolt is round? Try a small pipe wrench. If you’re concerned about stressing the fingers, press and hold the bolt up to disengage the fingers when wrenching.
Otherwise take the bracket off the camper and jack and try penetrating oil from the spring end with the bracket inverted.
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wnjj
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08/12/22 01:20am |
Truck Campers
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RE: wiring a coleman thermostat
Assuming your functional descriptions are correct (perhaps they are labeled?)
Connect both commons to B
Connect both reds to R
Connect the larger white wire to W
Connect compressor to Y
Connect fan to GH and GL
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wnjj
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08/12/22 01:06am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Side door latch/lock won't close without assist...
Someone pointed me to this video which shows someone repairing a TriMark latch unit. I think it is just what I was looking for and I'm putting it here in case someone else is wondering about the interior of this latch.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Epq8MrrRF7c
About 1 minute into the video, it shows the little white plastic piece and where it goes. That is the main thing I was trying to figure out as I believe it is what is supposed to keep the springy latch from extending too far (and thus making it so the door won't close without assistance). I'm going to check it out on my latch later today to see if I can get that piece to fit in the right place. I'll report back...
-Chris
I looked pretty close at the video and I don't think that plastic piece will stop the out travel. If anything it cusions/guides the in travel. Notice how his remade piece still rests on those two black plastic tabs.
Is it possible to shim the lock inward away from the door edge? If you take out the mounting screws you may be able to place something flat between the lock assembly and the door edge. Your picture showing the door face looks like it's all the way toward the edge right now. The dead bolt will be even further in but probably will still work.
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wnjj
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08/10/22 07:56pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Side door latch/lock won't close without assist...
If you want to try a cheap fix first, wrap a wide zip-tie or two around the bolt (inside the yellow circle in your photo) instead of gluing blocks in. A zip-tie shim will stay in place much better.
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wnjj
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08/09/22 08:25pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Jack leg help - Happi jac
If the jack doesn’t work by itself or with the “all” buttons I’d say the issue is in the controller board and not with the keypad. The coiled phone cord sends codes down to the controller so very unlikely to just fail one jack. Also if the other 3 run when pressing the all up/down buttons that means the controller keypad is working and the issue is local to the controller board for that one jack output.
If it were mine, I’d open the control box and see if it’s something cheap like the $8 relay on my fridge’s control board.
Thanks wnjj. all function except left rear leg down with the all button. anyone any help how to test the board relays? i can hear relays click for other functions. Going to try to test some later today. happi Jac no longer makes parts for this vintage. $500 to convert to wireless which is only option they have. i tried and tried to get tech support on how to test the board to see if a single component could be replaced. they do not provide that info.
Sorry, somehow I missed this reply all this time ago. I'm not surprised that nobody would provide support for the board itself as some much these days is "not user serviceable."
If you are still interested in a non-workaround fix, a picture of the inside of the box would help. I suspect there are a bank of relays on that board and the one for that one jack, one direction is bad. You would just need to find someone who can solder to replace it.
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wnjj
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07/28/22 12:25pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Truck Camper Gap
The tie downs prevent any roll so supporting the camper wings is not necessary.
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wnjj
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07/22/22 10:25am |
Truck Campers
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RE: Sequential use of small water jugs with pump
It might help the OP told us what he's trying to accomplish that requires multiple small tanks ganged together.
Exactly this.
Bottom of the second paragraph of the OP:
“This way I can just take out 1 or 2 empties and fill and replace.“
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wnjj
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07/07/22 10:44am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Sequential use of small water jugs with pump
If they are sealed just stack them. The highest pair will empty first so a refill can be made.
^^^
This.
Gravity will take care of the issue. Lay them on their side so the exit is at the bottom then stack them one above the other. The separate cans will act like one large one, emptying from the top downward.
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wnjj
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07/06/22 11:26pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Credit Cards For Fuel Discounts
I use my Costco credit card at Costco gas stations and receive 4% cash back on fuel. Recently fueled up with diesel at $6.00 per gallon, netted out at $5.76. They have the lowest price locally plus cash back. This discount works at dedicated gas stations, but not at stores that have stations like Safeway and Walmart.
Downside is, even though there are plenty of Costco stations, very few have diesel. I have an auxiliary tank so I can manage short trips up and back without refueling. This has worked well for me and my travelling style.
The Costco Citi Visa offers 4% on many/most non-Costco stations as well:
https://www.creditcards.com/card-advice/gas-stations-included-citi-costco-card/
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wnjj
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06/27/22 03:34pm |
General RVing Issues
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RE: DIY Slide In Camper questions
Another reason not to use the bed sides for support: If you change trucks down the road you don't have to modify the camper to match.
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wnjj
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06/27/22 03:24pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: Disadvantages of flipping trailer axles?
Flipping axles adds cosiderably more side load torque to the spring pack, shackles hangers and frame. An added welded in X member like 2"x .188 square tube between the rear axle spring hangers would be my advice.
Please explain how
Leverage. The axles are now further away from the shackles and therefore have a larger “pry bar” acting against them. Picture the axle tube trying to slide side to side and what stops it.
I cannot comment on whether they are built for it. Obviously plenty of people do oth without issue.
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wnjj
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06/18/22 09:01am |
Travel Trailers
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RE: General newb questions - Advice?
Valhalla,
As I mentioned in my post, some older and simpler systems did use a switch to choose from battery or converter to supply the 12V power to the house. Those systems do not charge the battery.
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wnjj
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05/31/22 04:29pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: General newb questions - Advice?
Since you have a switch to select battery OR AC power I'm going to say that no, your battery won't charge when plugged in to AC. I've known of 2 tent trailers in the past (late 80's and early 2000's) that had this kind of setup. The AC->DC converter (power supply) only powers the appliances and the switch picks either battery or converter.
Charging from the truck depends upon your truck's setup. Some trucks charge with the key on, others connect the charge line directly to the truck fuse box but only if someone has hooked it up. Then that wire from the 7-way connector needs to connect to the camper battery.
The best way to confirm battery charging or not from any source is to put a volt meter on the battery terminals. When charging you should see > 13 volts.
Most water heaters are LP or electric and can be run on both at the same time. If there is not a switch inside for the water heater there may be one outside under the screened cover with the twist tab lock. Depending upon the model you may likely have to light the LP manually. Look behind the outside cover for knobs, etc. and a 'pilot' button. Take a picture of what you see there. Your element is probably fine if you just plugged in since you likely did not turn on the WH.
Similar to the water heater, check behind the outer cover of the fridge. If it operates on AC, you should see a normal power cord plugged into an outlet inside that compartment. Most fridges are 2-way (AC/LP) or 3-way (AC/DC/LP). It's possible yours is only DC/LP but I'm not sure I've heard of one of those. On older systems you typically pick the mode with a dial on the back of the fridge (behind the outer wall cover).
Welcome and I hope this helps.
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wnjj
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05/28/22 06:17pm |
Truck Campers
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RE: My key fob quit working
Thanks everyone for your suggestions. Since my fob is newish(2017), I'm not finding a suitable replacement from Amazon or anyone. I'd like to be able to further disassemble the fob to access the circuit board but am not having luck and think the unit must be glued together.
3 here on eBay with the lowest at $50:
eBay fobs
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wnjj
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05/10/22 11:15pm |
Tech Issues
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