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Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Oil changes
I use an old Rubbermade storage container that will fit under the oil pan with the coach up on my homemade 2X12 ramps. I line it with two HD black trash bags. Have yet to get the container oily.
Use an old coffee can and funnel to pour used oil back into the gallon jugs which go back in the cardboard box they came in.
Lots of places recycle oil. Very likely your city's vehicle maintenance department has no problem accepting any volume you choose to drop off.
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wolfe10
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03/27/23 02:47pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Oil changes
Change it myself.
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wolfe10
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03/27/23 10:22am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Genny won't start a/ trying to turn on while on shore power.
It wouldn't start but while he held the button down, the lights inside the rig were flickering.
Need to know why it would not start:
Generator motor would not turn over at all.
Generator motor would not turn over fast enough to start.
Generator motor tuned over at normal speed, but would not start.
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wolfe10
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03/26/23 09:20am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Genny won't start a/ trying to turn on while on shore power.
Yup, a battery or connection issue between house battery and generator.
The lights dim because battery voltage drops when trying to start the generator.
I would start by checking battery voltage at the battery "at rest" and then while cranking the generator.
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wolfe10
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03/26/23 06:33am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Brake Issue
And, if floating caliper disk brakes, check that the pins (that the caliper floats on) are clean and lubed.
Pretty easy for dirt, rust, etc to not allow the "lazy pad" to pull away from the disk.
Since it is "air brakes for sure", no worries about changing brake fluid.
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wolfe10
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03/16/23 05:48pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Brake Issue
Yup, let us know:
Disk or drum?
Hydraulic or air?
And, at 19 years old, what maintenance has been done on them?
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wolfe10
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03/16/23 11:31am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Class B license to other states
Correct. If you move your legal address, you will need to get a new driver's license that conforms to the requirements of your new state.
Same for registration of you vehicle(s)-- they will need to be properly registered/licensed in your new state.
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wolfe10
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03/09/23 06:36am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Driver’s license for DPs
What state do you live in?
Yup, without that information, you will get quite a lot of good advice that applies to OTHER states, but may not apply to where you are licensed.
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wolfe10
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03/06/23 05:52am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: New to diesel fuel
If storing diesel for over 2 months in summer or 3 months in winter, add a BIOCIDE such as Biobar JF.
Then fill the tank to minimize condensation.
Run engine and generator long enough to get them fully up to temp (like 25 highway miles) and park it.
If in very cold climates and you filled in the summer/fall, add an anti-gel. Walmart carries PS brand.
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wolfe10
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03/01/23 07:14am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Belt change 300hp cummins
You have to take the tension off of the belt by turning the tensioning pulley. You do that with a 1/2" drive rachet. The 1/2" "hole" is in the middle of the tension pulley. Once you have the tension off, you have to remove the belt and install the new one. Take a picture of the old belt in place.
Yes, you release the tension as Larry said. You do NOT remove the tensioner which is held by the center bolt.
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wolfe10
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03/01/23 07:11am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Potential purchase of MH
How about just NO WAY!
Unless you just have too much money you want to share it with a scammer.
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wolfe10
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02/20/23 06:28am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Flushing water heater
With the tank full, but pressure released:
Remove the drain/anode plug.
Insert one end of a 5' section of cheap clear plastic hose of a diameter about 3/4 that of the tank threads.
Suck on the other end to start a siphon. Move the tank end around, "vacuuming" the bottom of the tank. Being clear hose, you will be able to see when to move the hose and when you are getting no more debris out.
If it hasn't been done in a long time, may need to use the potable water pump ON to refill and repeat "vacuuming".
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wolfe10
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02/19/23 06:21am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Battery isolator charge vehicle battery on shore power
Yes, of course you can just run a large-gauge wire from battery bank #1 to battery bank #2 with a switch in it. Can be at the batteries or any place you have large-gauge wires from both banks in close proximity. And, this is the KISS way of doing it. Wire size and switch amp rating should be high so if one battery is deeply discharged, you won't over heat the "connection" with high-amp transfer.
But, it is not automatic and that is what most people value over KISS.
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wolfe10
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02/12/23 06:51am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Battery isolator charge vehicle battery on shore power
My 94 Toyota had the old fashioned Cole Herse isolator, looked like a Ford stater solenoid. I added a switch to connect the house side to the vehicle battery and turned it on when on shore power. Can I add a simple switch and wires to this isolator to connect batteries when on shore power?
Yes, you can add a solenoid-- common on most rigs and referred to as a battery boost or battery combine solenoid.
Be sure you get a CONSTANT DUTY solenoid rated at least 25% more than the max amp load it will be seeing.
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wolfe10
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02/11/23 06:01am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Battery isolator charge vehicle battery on shore power
Most battery isolators charge both battery banks from the alternator when the engine is running.
Pretty easy to put your digital voltmeter on it and see whether it charges when the engine is running and/or when on shore power.
Yes, there are some battery combiners that will charge both banks anytime voltage is about a set level (indicating some charging source is on).
And, with any 19 year old vehicle, I would not ASSUME!
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wolfe10
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02/10/23 01:56pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Leak down test on the LP gas system, leak detected.
Do not use the side port on the smaller regulator.
Correct. Do not use the first stage plug for anything.
If your grill requires full propane PSI, "T" in between POL and regulator.
If the grill requires 11 column inches water PSI, "T" in after the regulator.
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wolfe10
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01/20/23 07:50am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Leak down test on the LP gas system, leak detected.
A little difficult to tell from the picture, but it appears the regulator vent in in the long axis of the regulator. This is NOT the correct PN for a horizontal installation.
The vent (quarter sized screen) needs to POINT DOWN.
The place you bought it should have asked if it would be installed horizontally or vertically.
Yes, this is a safety issue.
I found a pic of the old installation, so I need to rotate the regulator like this, correct? BTW, I did this (and learned that the input end has left hand threads). I don't want anyone else taking credit for my screw ups!
I think someone mentioned this before and I thought they were talking about the 4-port T.
https://i.imgur.com/3sJDCyHl.jpg
NO, the part is different. I would be very surprised if you are able to rotate the second stage to where the vent faces down. And, if you could, no idea what you would damage in the regulator. Said another way, I would not recommend even trying this. But, if you are considering doing this, please contact the regulator manufacturer for their advice. Propane devices are not something to take lightly.
Go back to the store where you bought it and talk with a manager. They SHOULD have asked if it was to be installed vertically or horizontally. At the very least, they should sell you the correct one at cost.
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wolfe10
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01/14/23 02:18pm |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: Leak down test on the LP gas system, leak detected.
A little difficult to tell from the picture, but it appears the regulator vent in in the long axis of the regulator. This is NOT the correct PN for a horizontal installation.
The vent (quarter sized screen) needs to POINT DOWN.
The place you bought it should have asked if it would be installed horizontally or vertically.
Yes, this is a safety issue.
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wolfe10
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01/13/23 07:35am |
Class C Motorhomes
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RE: How does 50 amp work?
Yup, no different than in your sticks and bricks home.
240 VAC between the two hots.
Most loads use only one hot, a neutral and ground. So 120 VAC.
Yes, larger loads in a sticks and bricks (electric water heater, central A/C, stoves, etc) are often on two hots, so 240 VAC. A few high end RV's have some 240 VAC appliances as well.
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wolfe10
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01/01/23 07:15am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Copper Canyon?
Can't comment as to how thing are now-- our last motorhome drive through that area was years ago.
But, an interesting side trip from Nuevo Casas Grandes is to the village of Mata Ortiz. They are famous for making pottery-- prices ranging from a few dollars to $10,000. We parked two 36' motorhomes for 4 days in front of the abandoned train station.
Really enjoyed the experience.
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wolfe10
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11/21/22 05:00pm |
RVing in Mexico and South America
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