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 > Your search for posts made by 'youracman' found 24 matches.

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RE: Electric steps for RV that did not come with them

Hey Beaver- I found the link to the dwgs for various Kwikee steps ..... I'll try to post the link. https://www.rvtechlibrary.com/exterior/kwikee_svc_manual.pdf Best---- ed s
youracman 07/29/19 10:43pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Electric steps for RV that did not come with them

We recently went from a Class A to our current Class C. 2019 Coachmen Leprechaun on a Ford E450 frame. It did not come from the factory with electric steps which we really liked in the Class A. I looked on line and could only find replacement electric steps so I wanted to know if anyone has installed electric steps on their Class C that did not come from the factory with them? If so who sells them? Thanks! I note your style coach has a body "drop down" in the area where the electric steps are on a lot of other Class C's. Evidently this is to make that first step up into the coach low enough so the owners can navigate it? You are wise to ensure this is "doable" and to request contact with someone who has done it, IMHO. If the normal "Kwikee" steps (like mine) have to be shimmed down to clear that "body drop down" ..... lack of sufficient ground clearance in the stored position might "quash the deal". Hope not. Mine is a single-tread Kwikee (Series 28) and the stored height measurement is just under 6 inches. I do see a Series 31 in my PDF that has a stored height of just 4-1/4 inches....probably your best bet. If you get that far along, I'll try to email you a copy of that PDF (forget how I came by it.) Good luck with the "hoped for" mod ...... and safe travels.
youracman 07/29/19 10:30pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Any Denver area C owners? Alignments???

I live in far east Denver. I had my 31 ft Class C aligned at Rush (Medium Duty) Ford Truck Center. I asked in advance if I could bring my own Ingalls adjustable bushings along for installation so I could be assured of 5 degrees positive caster. They said that would be fine...... they installed them, and I got my 5 degrees (it helped.) The alignment guy came up to the counter when I picked it up so I could talk to him about how it all went! Not inexpensive; as I recall about $239 a few years ago ..... more now, no doubt. You'll need an appt. I always take my toad and leave the coach. They like that, cuz ya never know how long it will take ..... or what they might run into. I have never had to leave it overnight yet. So far I have used them for any chassis work that is beyond my capability. I recently installed new front brakes with my grandson's help and just didn't like the way they "felt". They took it for a l-o-n-g test drive after looking at my install and said the brakes were great.....not to worry. $80 Not cheap (who is, really?) but they are about the only game in town for most things for an RV with an E450 chassis. I am happy with them overall. Good luck, and safe travels.
youracman 07/16/19 09:27pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: well, found the smell

navegator We seldom see rabbits , they must be tasty . Scientific name for coyotes: Eatamus Anythingamus. A rancher friend of mine always said "Never give a coyote an even break." Ranchers far and wide don't like 'em much. :^)
youracman 06/14/19 06:48pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Ford Class C with 6 speed transmission

My old'99 Ford F53 Class A chassis with the V 10 and 4 speed trans was doing about 2600 RPM at 60 mph in overdrive. What can I expect from a Class C ,E 450 6 or 5 speed at 60? Here's at least one data point for ya Johnny- My rig: 2007 31ft WGO Class C on a 2006 Ford E450 chassis w/5-speed At 60 MPH: Approx 2200 RPM
youracman 06/12/19 07:08pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: $$$ to maintain and repair?

No luck at any salvage yards. E-mail from Winnebago - do not have the encoders (actuators) and cannot get them nor manufacture them. Repair facility in discussions with Lippert was advised to by-pass the encoders and wire the motors directly with new switches for each motor. Be interesting to hear what others have to say. Intuition tells me that'll work. I would like to be observing an ammeter on each motor right there at your new double switch panel......just for grins. Does seem like if one motor got overloaded the Hall Effect device would shut it down (like it does when you hit the stops) and you could regroup? Interesting for sure. Once the mod is done, seems like you could just stop the slide travel at several intervals and measure the travel on each side.......to get to know the system and how to "drive it with the switches" so to speak. Sure hope you post back on this fix. Good possibility many of us will be in a like position sooner or later and you will be plowing new ground for sure. Best.............
youracman 06/09/19 10:45pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: $$$ to maintain and repair?

I have a 2004 Winnebago - like new inside and out. My only problem just happened with the slideout not working. Had to crank it in by hand. Repair company diagnosed the problem and cannot get the parts as they are now no longer making them. The failed parts are the actuators to both motors. Getting parts is the main problem with older units - although I do not think 15 years should be so obsolete that companies no longer make parts that may fail. Read your post and developed a "sinking feeling", tobydad. Just for drill, I looked up the motor/slideout encoder assembly for my 2007 Kwikee>Power Gear> now Lippert, I believe ........... and the sources I found said "No longer available" or "Obsolete" Perhaps as a last resort, you could try Visone's RV salvage? Like your experience over the previous 15 years, my slideout has never given trouble of any kind, but maybe it's time to think about selling the old girl......hand cranking won't get it for me. Good luck and safe travels.
youracman 06/03/19 04:07pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: $$$ to maintain and repair?

We have a 2003 30 ft. Winnebago Class C with 35000 miles. We like it and it currently serves our needs. Right now it's in a shop getting a whole list of things done to fix or prevent more problems. The estimate is $2,400 to $3000. I'm not shocked at all but how much would you spend to service and repair your present unit. If we traded we would downsize but would just have to find another 5 years old or more and with some miles. In reading several forums over about 5 years, I have read where some "seasoned" owners have stated they planned for $3500 per year repair/maintenance expenses with their DP's; one guy had owned both and stated his gas Class A ran about 1/2 that. They did their own routine maintenance. I do mostly all my own work on my Class C and it runs a bit less than than their estimates for Class A's. I do note that some folks say there seems to be a maintenance "spike" at about 10 years of age...... that squares with my experience; e.g. new rooftop AC at 10 years (self installed) and new front brakes at 11 years and 50K miles (self installed.) I note your coach is w/o slide so that will work in your favor; although in 12 years my only slide expense has been for dry lube spray cans (which I use religiously) and a new slide topper. I consider myself lucky in the slide department. :^) Obviously one can estimate the average, but the amount of + or - around the mean will be dependent on a lot of factors (and it will probably be a pretty big number.) Then there's the rate of depreciation........ ouch. Safe travels..............
youracman 05/28/19 03:43pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Intermittent failure to start.

Almost no Class C's are set up from the factory to charge the chassis battery via shore power. A LOT of owners install a charger just for that reason. Google up "TRIK-L-START" to view an example. I installed that one and it was a breeze. There are others available. It could be that your battery is faulty, but not likely ..... as new as it is. To rule that out, you may want to take your battery out of the rig and have a local parts house give it a load test. They do that for free. Another option is to install a chassis battery disconnect ..... for when you are not going to use the coach for a few days (or for winter storage.) Amazon has at least a couple of styles. I will try to attach a pic of mine .... (may end up with just a link.) I open that switch just as religiously as I shut off the "salesman's" switch for the coach batteries. Never any "surprises" with that protocol. lol Good luck with your fix ...... and safe travels. https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipPVZNDABfllStoPEY--AFTPvv4ZrxJkfFAtz95U/photo/AF1QipPmhoUdl-5d_7fwea8WxzGal1Oy94wvXcVjiS-T
youracman 04/19/19 08:47pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Valve stems

I got mine from these folks: https://www.shinyrv.com/product/dually-valve-stems-for-motorhomes-with-alcoa-wheels-2-hand-hole-dl4ac/ You might want to check with them. I got dually valves for my Alcoas there. Hit "Contact" on the site above and their phone number will be on the left side of the page. Easy to talk to and they will know what you need. I called them before I ordered my "Dually" stems to make sure I was ordering the right stuff ............. and everything fit right up. Safe travels
youracman 04/13/19 06:58pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Slide Out!

On our 06, the slides operate off the single chassis battery, not the 2 coach batteries. My guess is that it is easier to do the safety interlocks of the one 12v electrical system. I think they recommend having the engine running just to prevent running the chassis battery down and to make sure the slideout motors get adequate voltage power. On ours, the slides work without the engine running, but a bit faster with the engine running. They will not work, if the parking brake is not set. Ken ^^^^^^^^^^^ X2 ^^^^^^^^^^^ My Outlook Manual says (in all caps) that they recommend that you keep the engine running so as to provide maximum power. The slide will go in or out just fine on the coach/house batteries but you can actually hear the motors run faster with the Ford engine idling. Safe travels............
youracman 03/27/19 07:38pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: good disconnect to use for 12v battery

I am gonna "assume" you mean for the chassis battery. I installed one I got from Amazon about 3 years ago. Seems to do the trick for me and was a snap to install. https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Disconnect-Switch-Vehicle-Negative/dp/B07N1FQDFH/ref=sr_1_9?crid=359FCSP3R8W4I&keywords=battery+disconnect+switch+top+post&qid=1553217726&s=gateway&sprefix=Battery+discon%2Caps%2C185&sr=8-9 I agree that a Blue Sea switch would be the "Gold Standard" but I couldn't see an easy way to mount it under the hood. The link below is my first attempt to include a pic in a post on this forum. Maybe it will work. https://i.imgur.com/8YRIw75l.jpg Good luck with your project. As others have mentioned, it "could" save you the price of a battery; the parasitic loads on my rig are pretty sizable. Note: I edited this post. I had the wrong Amazon link posted for the switch. I had to have one that had the "knife" switch in a horizontal configuration.....not a vertical configuration. The link should be correct now.....hopefully. My bad, as they say.
youracman 03/21/19 07:17pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: New Onan 4000 wont start

Ooops! Should say ".....whilst cranking it" Getting late....past my bedtime. lol ed s
youracman 03/06/19 10:52pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: New Onan 4000 wont start

Well fudge me.....changed spark plug, oil, and air filter. Nada. Trouble code 36. All leads and voltages are solid. Cmon guys I need some ideas The only time my 4K Onan cranked but refused to start, it turned out to be the magneto. I discovered the bad mag by holding the plug against the Onan body (cooling fins IIRC) whilst it ..... no spark. A new mag assembly and it has run fine ever since. But then mine is 12 years old; has approx 500 hours on it and had lived down near the Calif beach for a several years before I bought it (the OEM mag turned out to be very corroded.) Even though your Onan is almost new by comparison, I would VERIFY it has spark. If it passes the spark test, at least you know you probably need to concentrate on fuel delivery (and not just to the carb inlet....to the cylinder.) Just my $.02 Good luck......know it is frustrating.
youracman 03/06/19 10:49pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: New Onan 4000 wont start

We had an issue with our brand new Onan in our 2009 Class C. Ours didn't even have 10 hours on it. My wife fired up the Generator while I was driving. She tried to heat something in the microwave for 1 minute, but the generator quit after 30 seconds or so. Restarted it and it quit again shortly after start up. Then it never fired up. The error code, which I do not remember, basically translated to "have generator serviced". It turned out to be a fuel pump that the dealer replaced under warranty. I would contact Cummins and find out what the warranty of the Generator is. It maybe more than 1 year as previously mentioned. They should also be able to help troubleshoot over the phone or email. Or at the very least find the nearest authorized repair facility. -Michael Good example of an "early failure part" the OP asked for, Michael. Wow! 10 hours! He apparently removed the fuel line from the carb and verified fuel flow though, as he stated that his fuel pump was working. 'Twill be "velly intellesting" to find out what the cause of his failure was. Hope he reports back. These Onans can drive ya nuts at times. Best......ed s
youracman 02/22/19 02:10pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: New Onan 4000 wont start

I agree, it sure as heck seems like some kind of "infant mortality" electrical/electronic issue, awesomeman: but these things sometimes defy logic IMHO. As you know it is recommended to start the Onan once a month and run it under 1/2 load or more for 30 min to an hour (the load application is to drive moisture out of the generator windings etc, primarily). Hard to believe that 60 days would cause varnishing in the carb, but just for grins: What do you think about removing the air filter; spraying in a bit of starter fluid, and than see if it will at least "pop"? Also, even though your coach batteries are up to snuff, you might start the big engine and let it put a little more "umph" into the coach batteries (automatically via the boost solenoid ..... just as when driving.) I know mine sounds like the Onan starter spins just a teensy bit faster when the Ford is running. I guess if the above doesn't get at least a "pop", you might pull the spark plug and see if the points are clear ...... and maybe just replace it (cheap). Good luck and keep us posted, please. We are all "still learnin' ". Safe travels........... ed s
youracman 02/20/19 07:28pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Advice on residential fridge in Class C please

FWIW: An option I believe worth considering is to get rid of the hydrogen-charged unit (think Hindenburg) and replace it with a helium- charged unit. A residential would work OK for me as I am a "pole-to-pole" camper, but a potential buyer for my rig some day may well prefer boondocking .... as many do. One could install a new cooling unit as a DIY project, but I will likely plan a trip back East to have it done next spring. Kinda pricey, but I feel I need to do something as my "working just fine" OEM Norcold is getting long of tooth at 11+ years. The extra capacity that this outfit touts sounds good too. http://jc-refrigeration.com/products/ and he has really great reviews. In any event...........safe travels. ed s
youracman 11/29/18 11:02pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Spare tire/roadside assistance

To each his own, of course. I carry an unmounted spare; cuz, as with so many other 30+ footers with minimal OCCC, I covet any wt saving available. When the other 6 tires age out, the spare will get tossed on the same scrap pile and I will put a new one in the slot. I have had one tire failure. It was south of Las Vegas ...... on a Saturday. Called ahead to a Firestone dealer and he said they would stay open until I was ready to hit the road.....of course that was after I told him I wanted 6 new Bridgstone$....lol. "Stuff" happens to me on weekends.....when stores are closed "but I got my own tar" for the emerg road service to put on .... even on Sunday. Safe travels................ ed s
youracman 11/10/18 08:24pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Tire pressure monitoring system dumb questions

Just a data point for ya Bill. The PO of my coach had installed the TST system and it came with the coach when I bought it. I like it fine......been in use about 6 years now. Flow thru sensors are on the duals and the only rub is that it took forever (or a little longer) to top them off thru those flow thrus using my old (nice and light) 100 psi pancake compressor. So I gave the little pancake to my grandson for bike tire air ups, etc and bought a 150 psi pancake compressor. The 150 psi unit performs very well (amazing difference, actually) .....just a little more weight though to count against my already "tight" GVWR. Talked to the owner there at TST and he was not surprised. He said "You wouldn't believe how small that little air-up hole is inside the flow thrus." I'd buy the TST system if I were in the mkt, but there are others just as good, I believe. Safe travels................. ed s
youracman 10/19/18 11:00pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Has anyone changed their own brakes?

There are no drums on the E-SuperDuty chassis (which was renamed to the E450 a year or two later). It's disc brakes all around, with the parking brake being mounted on the drive shaft in a little housing bolted to the back of the transmission.Just FYI to the readers....... My brother has a 1997 E350-V10 (not a Super Duty) motor home with rear drum brakes and a cabled parking brake to them. I own a 2007 Super Duty E350-V10 motor home with rear disk brakes and a cabled parking brake to them. The drive shaft parking brake you mention is on the E450 up to and including year 2007. Every year of the E350 to this very day, never had the drive shaft parking brake. The drive shaft parking brake was discontinued starting with year 2008. Thanks for posting, Ron. Good to know. My 2007 (2006 chassis) has the driveline brake of course and I wish it had the cable system. No problems with it at all, but if/when that driveline unit fails it is sure expen$ive to replace. I believe the main reason for failure is overheating....usually from forgetting to release the parking brake. Fortunately, mine has a loud beeper with different sound than normal to slap me alongside the head when the brake is left on. I may have driven it 100 ft or so that way a couple of times. :^( I also have read that starting in 2008 the brakes were bigger. I'd sure like that...if for nothing more than to dissipate the heat better (and a bit more stopping power would be welcome too.) Hmmm maybe I need to update to a 2009 rig....or not. Safe travesls ..............
youracman 10/17/18 09:39am Class C Motorhomes
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