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 > Your search for 'Hydraulic fan repair leak' found 11 matches.

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RE: Follow-Up On C.S. Greasy Fingerprints On Leather

Okay, below are copies of the emails I sent to Mr. Lemonis. The first states "Read" in the Status section, however, it could have been read by another person and misplaced. That has happened in offices. The second is "Unread" since it was sent just after midnight this morning. My name and RV.net name was on the first one so he could send me an email through private messaging. On the second, I gave my name, address and phone number. No, I don't need or expect a phone call, but look for some type of a response. Now, please tell me where I was not calm, mannerly or respectful. You know, I just don't get some of you people on here. Most are very friendly and open, but others want to accuse you of something else, call you names or assume you're a weird, out of control, dishonest, rude, and as one poster stated "goof". That was also the one who said I'd posted many complaints about CWs and other service centers I'd been to when I'd never been to any other than the one we went to after our bad luck at the CW. And I will state right here, we went to Derby City RV in Clarksville, IN and can give nothing but praise about their treatment of us and our motorhome. I have hopes that this will end the same way. And, yes, I think Mr. Lemonis does care enough that he does want to fix problems with the different CWs. Yes, ro_sie, I am an adult, an almost seventy year old female adult that was raised on manners and courtesy. I was taught at a very young age that that was the only acceptable way to live life and that's how I've lived my life. I may misspell or make other typos because I start typing so fast and don't always use Spell Check. I know I accidentally called our system the AquaHot and the HydroHot when it should have been HydraHot. I can get upset, like anyone else, I am still human, but I still do my best to be calm, mannerly and courteous. I don't think I was otherwise in my emails to Mr. Lemonis. Oh, I do need to apologize to Sidney. I was upset by another's post and took Sidney's post out of context. Sidney, I do apologize for not doing my best and not taking your post as it was meant. Thank you for trying to help. From: PGR_Skye Sent: 03/06/12 01:29pm Subject: Camping World, Indianapolis, IN Sir, My we took our 2001 Beaver into this facility in mid January to have the fluids changed as well as service to the generator and the Hydro-Hot system as we were planning a long trip. They assured us they had a mechanic experienced with the Hydro-Hot system. Shortly thereafter, the mechanics found a break in the brake line and notified us. We did't question them and had them repair it. Three of the hydraulic jack had failed and they tried to find replacements, as did we, with no luck. Then they told us the HYD cooling fan motor(sorry, I said just fan in my post on RV.net) needed to be replaced. We trusted them totally and told them to do it at $968.50. The motor had to be ordered. We called or went in to the facility each week to see if our unit was ready to be picked up. The reason we would go in was when our phone call was not returned. On February 28,2012, we went into C.W. to find out if our unit was ready since we knew that the fan motor had been received two or three weeks before and we hadn't gotten any calls from from the service department. When Chris saw us come in, he said he was just getting ready to call us as our Beaver was ready to go. We paid him after discovering we were overcharged for oil by quite a bit and that was corrected. Two days after bringing our unit home, my husband started up the Hydro-Hot and turned it off immediately. This system is usually so quiet that you can't even tell it's on. It was roaring and rattling so loud that you couldn't have heard the television if it had been on. Checked the fluid level and it was 'way below minimum. And there was no fluid leak. We have an appointment at an autorized Hydro-Hot service center on Monday. Hope your service department hasn't destroyed it. We paid $296.67 Also, I found black, greasy finger prints on the lower right side of the white leather driver's seat. A month and a half in your shop and hoping we don't have to pay for a new Hydro-Hot system. From: PGR_Skye Sent: 04/01/12 12:40am Subject: No Response To My Email Sent To You 3/6/2012 The email to you in my saved folder indicates someone at your end read it, but I've received no response. Now I'm getting bashed and called a liar by some on RV net for even mentioning my problem with Camping World in Indianapolis and that you posted on my thread that people should contact you. My post was "Never Again, Camping World" and you did post on there that you'd heard of none of the problems on there so to please contact you. You can read the full problem on my original post on there. I did email you about it. Since then, we took our Beaver to Derby City RV in Clarksville, IN on 3/12/2012 since they are a certified HydaHot Service Center. They removed the cover and discovered the burner head not fully seated. It was rotated in it's mount and one of the alignment tabs on the case was bent due to this not being aligned prior to being tightened down. It did not go into Camping World in January in this condition. We did have a bit of smoke coming from it and that is why we figured it needed to be serviced orginally. Derby City RV also found a nozzle that needed to be replaced, which they did. The HydraHot started performing properly as it had prior to being taken in to Camping World in Indianapolis. Since CW created a problem that we didn't have originally costing us time and fuel to take the unit to another repair center and a second bill to correct it, I feel that the original bill from CW for "servicing the HydraHot System" should be refunded. Oh, and we did get the greasy black fingerprints off the leather driver's seat with no bad after effects. Sincerely,
PGR_Skye 04/01/12 08:32pm Class A Motorhomes
Hydraulic failure

I had a hydraulic leak on the way home yesterday and lost power steering and cooling fan. We are sitting in Walmart parking lot in Sweetwater Texas waiting for a tow to a repair facility tomorrow morning. Has anyone experienced this and can you give me an idea of how big a hit I am going to take to my wallet? Oh yeah, filled hydraulic reservoir but it didn't help.
Kilgorehorn 09/11/11 04:34pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Replacing Air Dryer Desiccant Cartridge

Thanks for all the great tips! I'm a nut about cleanliness when I'm working on my engine and components, so I know what you mean about keeping dirt away from important areas. I'm always wiping and cleaning my engine (My wife wishes I would help her clean the house like I clean the engine on the MH!) I'm going out to the rig tomorrow with the intent of changing my oil and filter (and install my new Fumoto Valve in the oil pan), fuel filters, coolant filter, repair a small hydraulic leak at my fan motor (o-ring in fitting), my air cleaner/filter and my Desiccant Cartrige, and grease the chassis. Hopefully I can get it done this weekend. Then, if the weather stays good through this week into next weekend, I'll bring it home! (It's stored an hour away in my cousins heated warehouse). Don, great idea about using an old belt and vise grips for a strap wrench!
mtrumpet 03/18/11 02:12pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: New Challenge: Hydraulic Fan Motor Replacement

Actually, it was PM who welded the step supports back to the frame, all for just $26. My hesitation is that I initially had two leaks really, and when I was in the PM shop for a transmission service job, I had them look at the leak. At the time, I thought I had just one leak. They said they found a loose nut and tightened it. They charged me $60 for that discovery. In truth, the leaking continued. I took it to Cummins bc I thought they were responsible for the leak, perhaps an oversight following the major valve repair they did. They had me there all day and finally told me that I did not have an oil leak, but had a hydraulic fan motor leaking fluid. They did not have the motor, needed to order one, etc. I left since I had to go to my RV dealer service dept the next day to install a new A/C. But they faxed me the $1200 estimate. The next day, it was pointed out by my RV dealer's service dept that I indeed had an oil leak. See below. They also saw the hydraulic leak in the fan motor. So, I have two leaks and neither Cummins nor PM really seemed to have caught it. I am going to let my RV dealer service guys steam clean the engine so they can find the oil leak. http://gallery.me.com/orrgroup/100273/mail-9/web.jpg?ver=12888573760001
andyroo 11/04/10 02:05am Class A Motorhomes
A Busy Work Weekend

OK, maybe not a weekend, as I couldn't get it all done on Saturday and Sunday, and I spent a few hours on Monday morning to finish things up... about 26 hours total. But I'm still going to chalk it up as a successful weekend of "bonding" with the MH. It actually started a week earlier, when I took the MH to the dealer for the annual state safety inspection, and some chassis work for which I don't really have the heavy tools or the time or inclanation. They did:Lube/Oil/FilterReplace primary fuel filter and purgeReplace hydraulic filterLube PacBrakeTest and sdd SCAChange air filterChange air compressor dessicant filterReplace center top LED clearance light that failed inspection. :MReplace LED third brake light that failed inspection because one little LED out of the row was bad. :M :M :MInspect/adjust brakes, linkages, etc Then this past weekend I got to work... Repairs:Replaced water heater switch because of burned out pilot lightReplaced gas strut brackets that I broke last year while backing up "just a bit" with the electrical bay door open and hit the campground power pedestal :E (only damage was to brackets for $10 -- got off real cheap on that one!)Replace power footrest motor on passenger captain's chair (That will make my DW happy!)Repair leak in windshield washer reservoir (reseal around low fluid sensor) Modifications:Finally properly installed the remote displays for the Progressive Industries EMS-HWC50 surge supressor I mostly installed in the summer of 2007 (about time! :R) The wire from the main unit just came out from the bedroom closet in back, with the display unit loose and propped on some molding.Run wire from main unit down through closet floor and into outside electrical bayMount outside display and display switch in electrical bayMount inside display by master control panel in the middle of the rig.Fish wire from inside display through wall, down into bay behind the water heater, into space behind wet bay valve panel, out behind rear wheel, around side radiator bay, and into electrical bay Maintenance:De-winterized water systemFlush out antifreezeSanitize water system with bleach solutionFlush out water tank, water heater, plumbing linesFill water tankDump/flush holding tanksBlow out water lines behind refrigerator because they may still freeze (but I will now only have to turn on the valve when it's consistantly warm enough)Install new water filtersServiced refrigerator (clean/adjust burner/etc as per manual)Serviced water heater (clean/adjust burner/etc as per manual)Serviced furnaces (clean/adjust as per manual)Serviced A/C units (clean interior filters and ducts, remove exterior cowl to clean/inspect)Clean/inspect/fill all batteriesCheck/inflate tires, put on pressure sendersLube batwing antennaInspect roof and caulking (some minor surface cracking, not an emergency but will need to adress it soon when it gets a little warmer.)Thorough interior cleaningClean all windows and mirrorsVacuum all screensDust blinds and everything else (including tops of cieling fan blades, man can they get dirty!)Clean all counters/tables/sinksScrub showerClean kitchen appliancesVacuum everythingScrub tile with floor scrubberShampoo carpetsDetail dash areaWash throw rugsCheck hitch, toad baseplate, hitch equipmentExercise generator (no service needed, late summer I changed oil, oil filter, air filter, and fuel filter, and further work is not due yet.) It was all a blur, and I'm sure there are a few things I did that I forgot to put on this list. But it was a lot of fun, and I'm real sore and tired, and it feels good. Now all I have to do is a little shopping and stocking of supplies, and we should be good to go on our first trip next weekend. It's been a long winter, can hardly wait! :C I sure hope I'm not missing anything important... :h
ShapeShifter 03/16/09 08:16pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Transmission Leak

Don't know if this is your problem but I will relate what happened to my 2004 Southwind. I too saw some red oil on the ground and it looked like it was dripping from the transmission, as the oil was running down from the top of the transmission, down the side of the pan and dripping on the ground. It took me quite a while, a flashlight and a mirror, to find what was happening. The hydraulic hoses for the Power Gear Levelers run above the transmission and one hose had developed a leak and was dripping down onto the transmission, making it appear that the tranny was leaking, Hydralic oil being Dextron also, it was hard to distinguish. The thing that puzzles me is your description of that noise like a fan hitting a shroud. Any way since the leak is near the drivers side, that is where the Hydraulic resevoir for the levelers is located. Did you happen to operate the Leveler jacks? So take a look at that also to see if there is oil coming from the resevoir. Wipe the oil spill clean and start it up again and watch to see where the oil is coming from. As long as you don't drive it, it can sit there but check the Oil level in the transmission before you decide to drive it. You might want to arrange to look at it youself and or have it repaired before the time comes when you want to go somewhere and then find out that the repair shop is booked up and can't get to it. Good Luck
othertonka 01/07/08 05:46pm Class A Motorhomes
Transmission Leak

I need some help on this. Our '04 Southwind (Workhorse chassis) was put into winter storage in October. Today, I started the unit for the first time since then and ran the motor for about 30 minutes. Upon start-up I heard an unusual sound like a fan rotor hitting a shroud. I thought nothing of this at the time but after turning the unit off and preparing to leave the motorhome I decided to check the perimeter of the unit and found transmission or hydraulic fluid had covered an area about 4 in x 18 in on the driver's side of the transmission. Fluid was also showing on the transmission sump. It would seem to me that the fluid leak would be toward the engine side of the transmission and would then be blown back by the engine cooling fan. (The motorhome did not move while the engine was running). Can anyone suggest what could be leaking? Can the unit remain in storage for a few more months before the issue is addressed? Can the unit be driven to a repair facility within 25-30 miles without damaging the transmission? Would appreciate your advice on this situation. Ron
windy120 01/07/08 04:54pm Class A Motorhomes
Update on exh manifold leak/kudos to Coachnet

Well, my worries over the exhaust leak have so far not been much of an issue. It appears that with the engine fully warmed up, it isn't much of a leak. I am down on power a slight amount, but the trip from Orlando to Dallas went ok from that respect pulling down 8.9 mpg. The 'other' problem occured about 1/2 way between Mobile and Hattiesburg on US 98. We had just come up a decent hill and I checked the temp to find water temp at 225F. Crap! Started to slow, and a semi passed me waving... About that time I got the high temp alarm and pulled off. We were in the middle of nowhere - but luckily had a great cell connection. I went to the back of the coach and found oil everywhere. Got underneath and saw that one of the hydraulic fan supply hoses had split. Amazing how fast 3 gallons of Delo 400 will drain. Called Coachnet - they determined I would need to be towed and found me a wrecker relatively quickly. The problem was finding a shop to do the work. Nobody wanted to do the work Tuesday afternoon before Thanksgiving. Finally they found a shop just north of Pascagoula, meaning a 50 mile tow. It took about 3 1/2 hours for all this to get ironed out and the wrecker to come out. The tow was surprisingly uneventfull other than shoehorning 4 people and a moluccan cockatoo w/cage into a diesel wrecker w/sleeper. They used an underlift on the front axle, disconnected the driveshaft and I left the key on to keep the air suspension up and the airbrakes unlocked. We arrived at a ratty old shop and I told the mech it would be an easy repair. He said it had better be, because otherwise it would wait until the morning. He had already turned 3 jobs down that day and was seriously busy. 15 minutes later the hose was off and handed to another mechanic to make up a new one. The mechanic re-connected the driveshaft, and by the time he got done the new hose was ready. We reinstalled the hose in 5 minutes, added 2.5 gallons of Delo, fired it up and no leaks. The bill was $121.00 - one hour of labor, 30 bucks for the hose and 24 bucks for the Delo. I expected 250+ and if I would have been towed to a truck stop or Cat/Cummins service center it probably would have been...
v8q 11/25/05 08:07am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Newmar Owner's

We've own our 2004 DSDP for just about a year and have a little over 12,000 miles on it. It was purchased from Midway Motorhomes in Grand Rapids, MI. I've taken it back to the dealer four times; the first time was minor fixes and little problems that we discovered on the first trip. The second, third and fourth times have been to resolve three annoying problems and a couple minor fixes. One of the three time annoying problems was the refrigerator not cooling properly. The first two attempts to repair were improving the air flow behind the refrigerator. The third consisted of my providing them with sample data and statistical calculations showing that the refrigerator was not working correctly. Dometic is replacing the refrigerator this week. Another problem was associated with the engine overheating on small inclines has resulted in Freightliner fixing a hydraulic leak and replacing the hydraulic pump. I'm still not convinced that the problem is fixed, but thanks to Daryl on this forum, I have a much better understanding of what is going on with the fan and Freightliner service. The other problem has been the HWH jacks; the sound changed on the jacks to a pulsating sound when coming down and on my last trip stopped working entirely. The dealer reported that the jacks worked on the current visit, but they adjusted the pressure because of the pulsating sound. Overall, I'm happy with DSDP and with the dealer. I understand that they have to work with the manufactures to meet some their requirements and with a Freightliner service that mainly works on large trucks.
mibearbait 10/12/04 07:52pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Beaver Marquis Horror Story

I would like to paste a copy of a letter outlining my experience with LazyDays and Monaco. Please note that after three years I have still not received the check from Monaco that I was promised and have still not received the missing accessories from LazyDays that I paid for. Lest anyone challenge this as hearsay or exaggeration, let me assure you that I have this documented and in writing. Yes...I have hired a lawyer and that has only added to my expense, not to my satisfaction. 6/29/2002 Kay L. Toolson Monaco Coach Corp. 91320 Coburg Industrial Way Eugene, OR 97408 re.: 2000 Monaco Diplomat VIN xxxxxxxxxxxxx Coach #xxxxxxxxxxxxxx Purchased 9/17/99 Mr. Toolson: May I give you a brief history of my experience with my 2000 38’ Monaco Diplomat diesel pusher? In September of 1999 I made arrangements to purchase a motor home through Lazy Days RV in Florida. All arrangements were made in writing and confirmations were requested and received. When I arrived, my motor home did not have, as specified in writing, the Magic Bed, leather Buddy Seat or leather driver’s seat. I was promised they would be shipped to me the following week and installed by a local dealer. Attached you will find correspondence indicating the difficulties I had in getting Lazydays to fulfill their promise. For brevity, I will not list the phone calls, e-mails and faxes. If you would like copies, I will send them, however, they are quite numerous. The day that I picked up the unit, there came a heavy rain. When I went into the coach, water was literally running down the center of the floor from midcoach driver’s side, forward, and then out the entry door. There was also water covering the dashboard, toilet, kitchen counters and the vanity. When it stopped raining, technicians worked on the coach and said they fixed everything. When one of the technicians put the slide in, the awning would not roll up. He got on a ladder and reported the problem fixed. On my way home, at the first rain, the exact same problem recurred. Later, the slide awning “inflated” while driving down the road and eventually tore off. I further discovered when driving home, a serious front vibration (both front tires were defective and were replaced by Goodyear). I also found I had no chassis A/C. I later found that the A/C was not properly charged and the thermostat was out. When the thermostat was repaired, I found that the condensate came into the coach instead of draining out, so I consequently could not use it. When I tried to use the heater, the heater core exploded (literally), and all of the hot antifreeze flooded into the living area. When I arrived home and removed the bra, I found that the paint job on the front had been touched up for some reason. This was not disclosed to me. Please note that before traveling to Florida, I called sales rep Bill McVey and faxed him stressing the need for the unit to be ready to go since I would drive straight through, from Texas, to pick up the coach and have to come straight back, since I had a horse show I was to attend. Since the unit was not ready, I missed the show and forfeited all fees. My problems have continued with both the authorized service center here, there, and the one in Buda, Texas, whose services were arranged by Monaco company representatives. A synopsis of my repair history follows: I performed the following warranty service items at my expense because of frustration with the Monaco service centers: 1. Refrigerator circuit board replaced 2. furnace limit switch repaired 3. water heater a/c wiring replaced after shorting out and melting 4. brass flange replaced which was causing leaking air line in left rear brake 5. replaced ruptured heater core 6. chassis a/c charged to proper specification 7. new tire and valve extension replaced on right rear (The extension was originally installed with a kink, which caused it to fail, which caused the tire to blow out.) 8. VCR replaced, possibly due to leaking windshield and roof 9. TV replaced, possibly due to leaking windshield and roof 10. Windshield installed temporarily at my expense after Monaco tried three times 11. two front tires replaced with adjustments due to manufacturing defects (evident at delivery) 12. two water pumps replaced 13. two hydraulic jack needle valves replaced 14. one hydraulic jack solenoid replaced 15. 50 amp transfer switch replaced 16. coach battery replaced, due to bad cell The following items were repaired by the service center on their first attempt: 1. entry lock difficult to operate 2. passenger seat belt would not extend 3. chassis heater and a/c thermostat 4. generator exhaust pipe blocked access to oil filter 5. suspension outrigger broke off of frame I-beam (performed by independent frame shop I selected) 6. suspension air bag blowout (performed by independent frame shop I selected) The following items were repaired with two trips: 1. slide awning would not roll uptight, causing it to inflate while traveling down the road (it tore off) 2. cabinet joints re-glued due to separation from getting wet The following was fixed on the forth trip to the shop: 1. leaking in toilet compartment 2. leaking at TV antenna 3. motor home slide roller bracket 4. leaking motor home slide 5. compartment doors would bind against slide when opening them with the slide closed 6. leaking in bath 7. diesel will not flow into the tank properly when filling (it would take 30-35 minutes to fill the rig with fuel The following items were still not repaired following at least four separate times in the shop: 1. windshield leak 2. replace engine compartment insulation which came off and was sucked into the engine fan 3. tile cracking and coming loose in five distinct areas 4. kitchen cabinet fascia damaged from persistent water leaks 5. drawers derail 6. windshield falling out 7. battery isolator After persistent complaining, I was directed to take the unit to a third authorized repair center in Buda., Texas. Since I was using the unit regularly, I made all arrangements in advance to have parts ordered and the shop staff available. I agreed to pay overnight freight for any unanticipated parts. I was promised they would have it out in five days. When I arrived to pick it up, on the agreed day, I was told they had not yet ordered the parts for the windshield. I went to pick it up two more times, as directed by them, and it was not ready. This is 434 miles from my house and I called each time before going. This was the shop recommended to me by the factory as being superior. Besides being out the expense of these trips to Buda and taking off work and hotels, I was charged $617.39 for “warranty” work. Note that I spoke with the factory representative, who made the repair arrangements, twice and wrote him a letter concerning a refund for these charges. Each time I was told he would check on it and get back to me. I am still waiting. Furthermore, the radio would not work after they pulled the dash out. When I pointed this out to the service manager, I was told I would have to bring it back another time since they were too busy to check it that day. After all of this, I drove only 11 miles before the windshield started falling out. I had to stop and tie it on. I documented this with a call to your rep. With the help of Liz Adamo of Lazy Days RV in Florida, arrangements were made for Monaco to have their driver pick up the unit in Corpus Christi, Texas and take it to the factory in Indiana for repairs to the floor and windshield and chassis A/C. It was returned to me in May. After driving about 1500 miles, the windshield has broken in the lower left corner (when the body flexed, no impact) and is starting to come out again. It is raining today, and the carpet under the dashboard is so wet that water is running out the entry door. One tile is already loose and I still do not have a leather driver’s seat or a real Buddy Seat. I still do not have a refund for the “warranty” work I paid for. There is still no insulation in the engine compartment, the drawers derail and the battery isolator prevents the coach batteries from charging. I drive around with a nylon cargo strap holding the windshield in place. Is there anything that can be done? Sincerely,
rxjohn 07/24/03 04:15pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Older Winnebago Class A questions

MariAnimal, (Sorry had the wrong name originally.) Here goes, probably more than you care to know: Headers: The recommendation on headers is definitely recommended by me. I should have done it with my 1976 Dodge 440. Mine has the stainless steel exhaust system which I understand was used only one or two years. My chassis is 1988 and the original exhaust with headers. Check exhaust hangers, especially on top of the pipe; it eats away due to heat and moisture. Approximately $20 per hanger and four hangers. Window Seals: Check the sliding window seals (strips with fur) as three of mine blew away. The replacements were RTV'd on and are still there eight years later. Brake system: Suggest doing a 30 mph panic stop and make sure all tires leave rubber. Mine did not until something broke loose and worked fine thereafter. First rear brake job was at 90k miles before my Alaska trip but were still in fair shape. Make sure during shoe replacement that if a new adjuster cable is put on that the adjuster works smartly. My replacement adjuster cable was approximately 3/16 inch too long and created problems until the original was reinstalled. Rear brake shoes: Make sure the rear shoe has an anchor pin(?) hole. Needed for the right side emergency brake cable (?). It took three sets before I got the correct set. All the same part number. Look at the short brake rubber hose between the body and axle. Mine was shot after only about seven years. Bleed air from replacement hose before making axel connection as it is difficult to push the air up hill with manual bleeding. Brake pads: Recommend using semimetalic pads. A great improvement in stopping. See my signature also. Fan Clutch: Purchased with 30k miles, first repair was fan clutch, stuck in full on position on leaving Miami for Maine. Drove home and was a dog to replace. You probably will not have this problem as this fan clutch was used only for about a year and a half. My replacement clutch is probably the same as yours because I felt due to the 1 1/2 years it had a design and/or application problem. The replacement has about 110k miles on it. Alternator My alternator lasted about 110k miles. Diode went and is non-repairable (welded terminals) but I repaired it for a spare (the silver solder I used will probably melt.) Expect it to last long enough to get me home. Note that the through mounting bolt will probably be electrically plated in place due to the lack of a ground wire between the alternator and frame/block. Took me about four hours to get it out because I don't like to hit things as hard as required. Let time and penetrating oil help. I put some antisieze on part of the bolt to make getting it out easier but still not completely break the ground path. Leaks: The clearance light lens crack and let water in through the wire holes in the fiberglass (front and rear). The fiberglass behind the clearance lights is thin and develops holes. It is a problem with the bend radii and injection(?) molding. My roof is covered with about a 1/32 inch thick aluminum sheet. Be careful with a putty knife while scraping as it will cut right through easily. Recommend EternaBond tape for sealing. Recommend Marine RTV and not regular RTV (5 years vs 2 years before redoing.) 3M Marine 5200. Transmission fluid: Recommend synthetic transmission fluid. Mine came with it and did not get around to change it until I had added 60k miles. Have 60k on my present fluid and hope to change it this summer. Have original transmission with no overhauls. Tires: Definitely radials. Check that the rims are rated for radials, mine were. Use "Equal" for balancing vs lead weights. Have had good results. Go oversize on tires. My book does not recommend my size for the rear due to the tire sidewalls touching and less air cooling but I have had no known problem, I just try to make sure the tire pressure is on the high side. I don't get into fine tuning tire pressure but would not discourage it. I am happy if I get to my destination and tire wear and tire life is acceptable. Coolant Hoses: Invest in the very heavy heater hose. Gates has a solid 3/16 inch dia. wire molded in. Mine has about 12 heater hose sections. Don't forget the water pump bypass hose under the top air pump (completely out of sight). Replaced my original bypass hose last summer and it was mush after about 15 years. Air pump filter: Don't forget it. Mine "AC 700". Radiator cap: Check and/or replace it. A new one is not necessarily good. Shocks: Bilstiens or search for other recommendations. Great improvement. Had to weld the rear shock mounting attachments to take the added stress per Bilstiens instructions. Upper control arm bushings: Design problem in getting grease in. Do it yourself and grunt. Lowers tend to take grease more readily. Don't overlook the grease fitting on the drive shaft slip joint. Engine Belts: Chevy acknowledges they have a part number problem and different configurations. Just be prepared to work your way through it. Fuel filters: Don't forget the filter on the right side chassis rail, as well as the carb filter. Chassis electrical grounds: Clean all you can find and cover with grease or something. This is a source of many hot engine starting problems. I experience this but went right to the grounds and it was fixed. Hot or cold; no starting difference. Fuel system: Clean with about two cans of "B-12" (about $2.50/can) available at Wal-Mart. Be sure new gas filters are available. I had B-12 plug mine one time, but it was just doing its job. Pick the time of adding to be the least inconvenience for a problem. Note: Follow B-12 instructions exactly if used in the engine oil. Per Manufacturer it can be used in transmission but must be totally removed after a few minutes. They removed the transmission application from the can because people were not following directions and removing the cruddy fluid, transmission was fixed; for a while. Carburetor: Torque all the mounting bolts. Usually a little loose, allowing extra air in for a lean mixture. Headlights: Installed relays to increase the voltage to the lights. Significant improvement. Emergency cable: Lever adjustment plus under chassis adjustment. Replaced front section due to sticking. Keep it lubed (WD-40 & oil) the best you can. Air Injection Valves: Very expensive ($100 to 200 range). Replaced one but probably only needed cleaning. It was not checking. Unfortunately destroyed it getting it out. Hopefully you have the simple (cheaper) check-valves. Air bags: The front lose pressure (say 6 months). The Firestone's in the rear about 3 months. Do not disassemble suspension to replace front bags, buy bags that avoid this. Spark plug wires: Worth a through study for your application as it will no doubt be a problem. Twice it was a backfiring problem for me. NAPA has/had about five grades of cables and the middle grade is good for about five years in my application. It certainly would be less if I cruised at 70 mph or towed, lived in the south or mountains, etc. Distributor: Verify that the vacuum advance mechanism moves smoothly by hand and with a hand vacuum pump. Vacuum hoses: Check and/or replace all hoses. Source of many problems and cheap and easy to do. Air pipes to manifold: If needing to replace, invest in a Drumel tool unless you have another method. Mine are stainless steel but believe yours are regular steel. Will give an exhaust leak. Air pump: Got too noisy after 140k miles. Air flow shields: The left side of the engine probably has one but not on the right side. A very good investment to add to the right side. Spark plug wire boots will last longer as well as most everything else in the area. Electric steps: Mine is apparently a marginal design and/or application. Biggest problem is probably getting enough current/voltage to them for retraction. Too much wire losses plus Winnie left out the screw on the CB buss for the step CB. Self tapping screws were used but the hole was perfectly smooth. Wires are undersized as evidenced by several overheated wires (wires for both engine and house batteries.) Breakers never tripped. Oil cooler lines: Complex hose and tubing assemblies that are apparently no longer available. One of mine weeped for years but finally decided it was a problem. Replaced with 4000 psi hydraulic hose with a fire rating. The original hoses are impressive for say 60 psi working pressure but apparently the problem is vibration (abrasion) and engine heat. Batteries: Like they say two 6 Volt golf cart batteries. Not there yet but next time. Expect a 5 year house battery life vs industry number of 2 years. The number is severely affected by maintenance and number of charge cycles. Fuel pumps: Know your system. Carry a spare mechanical fuel pump. There are too many configurations to reliably get one the first time unless you carry the old one in. Took me two tries for the spare but am still running the original. Even though I was aware some chassis have an electric pump in the tank, it took me eight years to realize I had one. Motor/Generator: Have 750 hours on it. Hope you don't have a Kohler, very marginal quality. My 1976 had an Onan; oil, and plugs was about it in 10 years. Kohler: points (an OEM replacement set created many troubles, turns out the bearing was loose and the contacts would not stay in alignment), one of the slip rings wore and bounced the brush until the brush lead broke; replace the slip rings, the coil is very marginal but usable if everything else is in good shape, replacement muffler is difficult to match up; unit cannot deliver its nameplate rating as it has a 30 (or 35) Amp breaker with a hair trigger (if no AC out, check the breaker); interface wiring by Winnie constantly corroding away; starter gear to flywheel very noisy (greased with anti-seize to quiet); etc. This is not all inclusive but it has made my time recovering from a flu go better. *This Message was edited on 24-Apr-03 04:28 PM by MaineRoger*
MaineRoger 04/24/03 03:38pm Class A Motorhomes
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