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 > Your search for 'ramp door rebuild' found 6 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Ramp door damage

Have a look at a thread by Hemicbx that started 9/18/11. He's got lots of good photos and a writeup that might be helpful for you if you decide to tackle a repair yourself. Click Here Sorry, no link. You can use Advanced Search for Ramp Door with him as the author and it will come up, searching in Toy Haulers. Mod Edit: Made clickable link Thanks, I have seen that thread and if I decide to rebuild I will be using that as a reference
Bowhunter61 06/20/12 10:24am Toy Haulers
Ramp door damage

I got back form our last trip and was cleaning up the unit and noticed that some of the top hinge bolts on the ramp door were rusting. So I decided to take a look at them and found that the seal around the hinges was done very well and that water has been running between the hinge and the door and getting into the bolt holes. I then notice some slight bubbling that I would consider to be de-lamination of the skin form the inner OSB (I think that is what they use). Tried posting pics from photobucket but kept getting an error So a couple questions: 1) Am I right in my assessment? 2) Do you think Keystone will cover this? Bought unit in April 2010 3) if not do you think the de-lamination will stop here after I seal the hinges correctly or do I have to rebuild this thing? Thanks
Bowhunter61 06/19/12 07:58am Toy Haulers
I want to build a new Ramp door

I've got some rot in my toy hauler ramp door. It's bottom center (when the door us up). I've seen the thread over on heartland owners http://www.heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/23780-Ramp-Failure that shows the inside of their door. This is a very simple construction and with basic woodworking skills & materials, I'm sure I can duplicate this. I've also found the edge channel at http://parts.tnttrailer.com/products/217-aluminum-chair-molding-h-molding.aspx which would allow me to build an entirely new door, not rebuild the old. I'm wondering if anyone else out there has had their toy hauler door apart for repairs? Have you seen the same construction methodology? -MHZ
Hemicbx 09/18/11 08:34pm Toy Haulers
RE: Rotten Ramp

It happens. This thread has some info on how a Rage'N brand ramp was repaired. Old Thread There have been other threads too but couldn't find them with a quick search. Rear door rebuild This was the other one. He had a little more work as his framing was wood.
Vulcanmars 03/02/11 08:18pm Toy Haulers
RE: Rotten Ramp Ruins Relaxing Recreation - REPAIRS COMPLETE!

Ok - here we are on June 21st. This project took entirely too long - but could not be avoided. Here is a picture of the framing with some of the insulation in place: http://www.beaglenews.com/uploads/RVRampRepair/Photo_062009_003.jpg I took pressure treated 2x4's and ripped them down (2x2's off the shelf would be the wrong size - I needed lumber that is 1 1/2" thick, the only 2x2's I could find were dressed down to 1 1/4") to rebuild the framing. I used 2x6's to rebuild the sides - in place of the 2x2's and particle board scraps that were orignaly there. The ramp itself is now exterior grade plywood. All wood components had 5200 marine sealant applied to facing edges and stainless steel screws used to complete the assembly. The original fiberglass bats were replaced with styrofoam. The aluminum sheathing provided an interesting challenge. It should have been re-applied from the top down, then I could put fasteners on the bottom of each piece, which would be hidden by the next piece, because of the way the joints were made. But if I did not get the first piece in exactly the correct position, the last piece would either extend too far below the bottom, or be short of the bottom, so I chose to re-assemble from the bottom up. This would mean that in order to make sure the center area of the sheathing was secure and not flopping around (which I would expect over time would tear apart and seals made by caulking - and possibly with enough flexing, tear a piece of the aluminium out) I had to put a few screws in through the center area of the sheathing. A drop of white paint should take care of the distraction of the screws in the middle of the sheathing. Cleaning the gunk that they used for caulking off the siding and the trim took several hours, some mineral spirits and a gallon or two of elbow grease from SWMBO and myself. http://www.beaglenews.com/uploads/RVRampRepair/Photo_062009_001.jpg the picture does not display the amount of gunk there. We had a ball of******twice the size of your fist in each piece of trim. I re-hung the sheathing with a liberal dose of 5200 down each stud on the ramp, then gave the edges of the sheathing a liberal dose of dicor before I re-applied the trim. Unfortunately I got finished too late today to make a decent picture of the completed job. I will get on tomorrow and post it. I dont believe the door weighs any more than what it did before I started this exersize. One more note: Whoever constructed this door did not know what a square or a tape measure is or how to use them. Nothing is square and to make up for poor measurements (and the lack of square) filler strips were used. One filler strip, which ran the length of the trim at the top of the door, appears to have contributed to the original problem with the door leaking. Now the door is constructed from treated lumber and all stainless hardware. No more rust streaks from the screws and even if we do get a leak again in the future, I wont have to completely rebuild this door. Now, where is that beer?!?!?!?!
portscanner 06/21/09 08:15pm Toy Haulers
Rotten Ramp Ruins Relaxing Recreation - REPAIRS COMPLETE!

I was hoping today would be a rather quiet day, a little bit a rest and relaxation. I have (fortunately) been working 6-7 days a week, so in the current economy, I have been making "hay while the sun shines." The trailer features prominently in both our recreation and income (I go on site with the customer quite often) so I must have it in good working order. A week ago, DW noted that there was a soft spot on the ramp - near the locking mechanism - and she was correct. Water had somehow gotten in the door and the inside/part you drive on was swollen around the left middle area. so I figured with it being quiet today, I would take the circular saw, open up the door, find that a foot or so of plywood had gotten wet, replace that section of the wood, seal it up and be done in time for a couple of beers on the back deck in the after noon. Foolish me. First thing I did was observe that the locking mechanism was loose, so I figured that the bolts had come loose, (which I discovered later that the bolts had not come loose) breaking the seal where the lock was bolted through the door causing the failure. So I took the circular saw, and set it for a shallow cut, and cut around where the bolts were holding the lock in. I did a shallow cut as I did not know how the door was constructed, so I was going to take a little bit at a time. After those first cuts, I was in for my first surprise. It wasnt plywood. It was that nasty chipboard. Using a chisel and screwdriver, I starting picking out the rotten wood around the bolts. The wood was so bad it only took me a few seconds to get all the way through the door to the outside aluminium sheathing. I then discovered wet fibreglass batting. I cut a longer area open, figuring that what I could do is find the first pressure treated stud, which would be about 10-12 inches from the left end of the ramp, cut off 10-12 inches of the chipboard, replace it with some exterior grade plywood, and break out a cold one. Note my comment above about pressure treated studs. Surprise, surprise!! After I opened up a larger hole in the door I found that they had used cheap engineered lumber (I am shocked it was strong enough to hold the ramp together as it was) - and not pressure treated treated. so I figured, ok, I will replace the outside 2x2, put on my chunk of plywood, and still have plenty of time to sit down and have a long talk with Sam this afternoon (That's Mr. Sam Adams to the rest of you) Nope. the second stud was rotted, so I opened it up further. Third stud rotted. I just kept going. Water filled fiberglass batts followed by more rotten studs. Top sill and bottom sill was rotton. To make a long story short, by 1:30, the only thing left of the door was the aluminium sheathing laying in the driveway and the steel frame that was still connected via the hinges and springs to the trailer. Half of the rest had came out in rotten, moldy clumps, the other half, was just cut out or unscrewed and tossed in the trash. I had discovered in the disassembly process, strange scraps of wood used as spacers in places, wood that I wouldnt use for firewood (even before it rotted) and fiberglass batts haphazardly installed. I decided I would rebuild the door using pressure treated 2x2's except for the outer edges, where I would use 2x6's. Originally on the outside edges they used 2x2's then used scrap chip board as a spacer for the door locks. I was also going to use Styrofoam as an insulator for the open area of the doors instead of the fiberglass batts, so that if any water got into the door in the future, it would not be absorbed by the fiberglass, which then started growing some interesting molds spores and fungous. I did not have enough materials at the house to complete the task, so it was off to the local big box home improvement store, which did not have all the hardware, so it was off the to the other big box home improvement store across the street, which of course, did not have everything needed, but at least I had all the lumber, so it was back home (2 1/2 hours later because, well, you know how helpful and quick to respond employees are at these stores.) Now it is getting late, but I have all of the 2x's cut to size. I am just worn out, as it was up, down, left, right, in and out all around that door, as I wanted to be as careful as possible to minimize damage. I have been successful on that part as the aluminium sheathing is neither folded, spindled or mutilated and when I get it reassembled in a few days it will look as good as new. I need to take the wire wheel to the steel frame and then repaint it. then I will start putting things back together. I am going to use screws along "5200 Marine Sealant" that I have read about in other threads to secure the plywood to the 2x's and the sheathing to the 2'xs along with the original edge trim on the sheathing. I do have to find someone who has butyl and the 5200 somewhere here in town. I will be posting pictures of the disassembly tomorrow - and hopefully pictures of the reassembly! Any constructive comments or suggestions will be appreciated.
portscanner 06/07/09 08:36pm Toy Haulers
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