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 > How many of us are there? Owners of Dodge based RV's?

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StingrayL82

Nampa, Idaho

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Posted: 09/29/19 06:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

PolCat-76-Avion wrote:

My question to the group is does the 76 Mopar 440 carburetor have a primer pump? If you pump the foot pedal does it pump gas into the carburetor throat? It has sat for a week and now will not start. It has an electric fuel pump on it so I let the pump run for awhile before trying to start it. Last weekend we went camping and when we went to leave it was a hard start.

Update: went out and let the fuel pump run for 2 more minutes and it started right up [emoticon]


If you are having to run the fuel pump that long to get it to start, the most likely culprit is going to be the fuel bowl well caps that sit underneath the phenolic resin bowl on the Thermo-Quad. I’m going through that right now and just bought some Loctite E AE–120HP resin to re-epoxy them. It’s almost identical to what Carter used when they were assembling them.


Fred
Retired Army Guy
1976 Monaco Winchester
22.5' Class C

PolCat-76-Avion

De Pere, Wis

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Posted: 09/29/19 06:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

StingrayL82 would you have pictures of this? My experience is with vintage snowmobiles not larger carburetors.

StingrayL82

Nampa, Idaho

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Posted: 09/30/19 08:22am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

PolCat-76-Avion wrote:

StingrayL82 would you have pictures of this? My experience is with vintage snowmobiles not larger carburetors.


Here you go. Keep in mind that there is an identical well cap on the other side of the bowl. Almost everything on the Thermo-Quad is siamesed.

[image]

Of course, this is ASSuming that you still have the original Thermo-Quad on your 440, and not a replacement, like Holley or Quadrajet.

eyeteeth

SW Michigan

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Posted: 09/30/19 09:45am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I recently re-built my Carb, re-glueing the well caps in an effort to solve the same problem. It did not. If you have a second guess, I'm open. Was starting the link the fuel line may just be old enough that its in need to replacement... But I can't figure out why that would cause problem with fuel that should already be available in the bowl.

StingrayL82

Nampa, Idaho

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Posted: 09/30/19 10:18am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

eyeteeth wrote:

I recently re-built my Carb, re-glueing the well caps in an effort to solve the same problem. It did not. If you have a second guess, I'm open. Was starting the link the fuel line may just be old enough that its in need to replacement... But I can't figure out why that would cause problem with fuel that should already be available in the bowl.


From my extensive research on the subject, the aforementioned epoxy is the only one that seems to have success in keeping the well caps firmly in place and leak free. The key is to make sure that the old epoxy is completely removed from the fuel bowl and the caps, make sure that you give it a good key with some sandpaper, then clean with denatured alcohol, apply the epoxy, install the caps firmly, and let it cure for a couple of days, otherwise the ethanol will destroy the work you’ve done.

PolCat-76-Avion

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Posted: 09/30/19 11:05am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I found this on YouTube, it is what mine looks like.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fzNhCLg9veg

Part II shows these tabs. 5:50 into the video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=huzO53WB_1c

* This post was edited 09/30/19 11:14am by PolCat-76-Avion *

StingrayL82

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Posted: 09/30/19 11:15am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

PolCat-76-Avion wrote:

I found this on YouTube, it is what mine looks like.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fzNhCLg9veg


Yep, the venerable Thermo-Quad. When it’s properly built and tuned, it’s one of the best carburetors out there. There are many people out there who hate it, because they don’t know how to work on it. You’ll get arguments that the phenolic bowl cracks or warps. I have never seen one warp in my life and I’ve built quite a few. The reason they crack most of the time is because people either over tighten them or they forget that there are two screws that are down the primary bores and they try to use a screwdriver to pry it open.

If you take your time, and you use the factory service manual for your motorhome, you can get a really good running carburetor that gets decent mileage and gives you lots of power. Switching from a two barrel to the four barrel really woke my engine up. Plus, i really like the distinctive “moan” the Thermo-Quad makes, when the secondaries engage.

PolCat-76-Avion

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Posted: 09/30/19 11:54am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Went out at noon left fuel pump run til count of 10, full choke no pumping of the pedal. Started right up [emoticon]

The 3rd part of that video answered my question on the accelerator pump 4:35.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L8CnQWTUSNU

* This post was edited 09/30/19 12:08pm by PolCat-76-Avion *

Ballenxj

Formerly Southern Nevada, Idaho now

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Posted: 09/30/19 12:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

PolCat-76-Avion wrote:

Went out at noon left fuel pump run til count of 10, full choke no pumping of the pedal. Started right up [emoticon]

It would seem you have now found your start up system. Congrats! [emoticon]


Downsizing ">

PolCat-76-Avion

De Pere, Wis

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Posted: 10/02/19 04:00pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Not necessary but just annoying! Are the dash lights plug in bayonet style or the newer all glass style? Can you reach up and find them from behind?
This is the dash in it.
[image]

* This post was edited 10/02/19 04:07pm by PolCat-76-Avion *

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