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Popkorn

Ft. Collins Colorado

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Posted: 08/12/05 11:52am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

There have been a number of postings about building a rear deck for our TC's. I'd like to add mine off the back of my Bigfoot and ask a question. My design was almost perfect as to size, alignment and fit.

[image]

It even looks good tucked up and secured in the travel position

[image]

....but, it is too weak and flexes in the middle so that I'm afraid to stand on it. What gage angle iron have others used? The frame is 1/8" flat plate bent at a 90 degree angle.

So, this one will be trashed and another welded up from heavier angle.


Jerry Crawford

Do not argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.

Gregori

San Diego, California (USA)

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Posted: 08/12/05 12:06pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

No need to pitch this one, just add two lengths of 1.5" square tubing (.120 wall) across the width, dividing the depth into thirds. I think I paid about $25 for a 20' length of this stuff recently - not a big deal.

You could go bigger/heavier, if you're a 'big' guy, but two .120/1.5" box sections will support a fair amount of weight, even with the 8' span.
(If you make it TOO heavy, it will be a hassle to stow/deploy.)

Best of luck,
G.

(Fixed dimension, on edit.)

* This post was edited 08/12/05 03:04pm by Gregori *


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Popkorn

Ft. Collins Colorado

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Posted: 08/12/05 12:14pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hey - great idea. I'll do that today. Sometimes I'm just too close to the problem to see simple solutions. Gottaq buy some more drill bits though - I wore mine out drilling all the screw holes in the frame [emoticon]

Pete_k

Stantonville Tn

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Posted: 08/12/05 12:22pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If it was mine. I would have also ran the boards long ways. The SQ tubing will help. but if you take 5/4" decking boards and run the long ways. It will stiffen it up better.
Pete
Popkorn wrote:

Hey - great idea. I'll do that today. Sometimes I'm just too close to the problem to see simple solutions. Gottaq buy some more drill bits though - I wore mine out drilling all the screw holes in the frame [emoticon]



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XA4AV8R

Kennewick, WA, USA

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Posted: 08/12/05 12:34pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Your design is similar to mine....I ended up needing 2 full length stringers of 2x2x3/16" angle iron placed about 6" from the rear and front of the deck to get it stiff enough...plus my frame is a little beefier than yours...1.5x1.5 angle. Mine is quite strong...I hauled a 240 lb Honda 250 motorcycle on it last weekend and it supported my weight on there also![image]

* This post was edited 08/12/05 12:48pm by XA4AV8R *


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Gregori

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Posted: 08/12/05 03:07pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I was going to say something about the board direction, as Pete K. pointed out, but those look like 3/4 inch boards, not 5/4 inch decking.

Also - I intended to say 1.5" square tubing, but inadvertently put 1" in my post. (Now corrected.) 2" would be even stronger, but at the expense of weight and cost.

G.

Popkorn

Ft. Collins Colorado

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Posted: 08/12/05 04:04pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yes, they are 3/4" cedar decking. I was trying to fabricate something that was a balance between light weight and durable and I went too far in the light weigh direction. I think this will work for me OK.

[image]

I went over to the iron monger this afternoon and had two 1" square tubing welded into place. That makes the deck stiff enough but there is still some flex.

Mine locks into place securly while traveling.

[image]

Popkorn

Ft. Collins Colorado

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Posted: 08/13/05 02:08pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Back to the steps.

I'm in a quandry about mounting/attaching the steps from ground level to the deck. I don't have any problem laying out & designing the three step frame but I've got a mental block about how to attach them at the top/porch. I had intended to hinge them so they laid against the porch when up in travel position but after I did the math the step stringer is right at 42" (Hypotnuse of the triangle - the porch is about 32" high). This is too long to hang/swing down on a hinge as the bottom would be only a few inches above the ground.

Until I can work out these details I'm going to have to carry a small two-step ladder to get up and down. I laid out the steps on a 45 degree angle, mostly so LOML can step with confidence up to the porch. I can recompute the angle-of-the-dangle which would make the steps steeper (and a correspondingly shorter stringer) but I don't think I'd gain enough to make it worthwhile.

Comments - options - thoughts???

* This post was edited 08/13/05 02:15pm by Popkorn *

Artum Snowbird

Campbell River, B.C., Canada

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Posted: 08/13/05 03:18pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Snowbird steps are a two part system. When the camper is in the truck, the steps are straight, but when the camper is on the ground, the bottom half of the steps is hinged, so the bottom steps are under the camper.... The bend under part forms the step foot.

There are two short stubs out to the sides at the top closest to the deck, and these would fit into "U" shaped slots welded at 90 degrees outward to the outer edge of the deck

Not sure if this would work for you, but it might. Need a better desc, I will take a pic of a drawing so you can understand.


Mike
2012 Winnebago Impulse Silver 26QP
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previously Snowbird Campers,
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Popkorn

Ft. Collins Colorado

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Posted: 08/13/05 04:26pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I think I got it. Sometimes when I have a knotty problem to solve (like peace in the middle east) I go for a drive. Often that clears my head and a solution will come to me. I did that this afternoon and I think I have a plan. If it works I'll post it - if not I'll go soak my head.

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