JimAndCat
Melrose, Florida
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Joined: 11/03/2004
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We noticed heat from doghouse and floor of both driver and copilot.
Once I put my hand under he carpet and pad and felt the almost burning heat we now know we need to do something and so are very interested in learning more via this thread.
Our local mechanic (who we trust to the death)has advised to put heat shielding under the floor (not inside) and also all interior of the doghouse and he is going to install for us. I also like to putter many jobs myself but this one I want done by a pro.
His thought is why would you want to put insulation on the inside after the heat is already in the interior which is why he recommends using the specialty heat material outside under seat areas and, of course, the underside of the doghouse and over manifold.
Of course he can't always be perfect so and again all experience and suggestions on heat shielding us poor old folk from the intense heat of the engine very, very much appreciated as we don't want to do the job wrong the first time and have to subsequently do it again!!
Thanks to all offering info
JimAndCat
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TXiceman
Full Time RVer
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Joined: 11/17/2000
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It is not hard to do yourself. Unbolt the 4 bolts that holds down each front seat and pull them out. Remove the door sill moulding and remover the engine cover. Get some 3/8" foil-backed heat pad from W.W. Grainger along with some high temp spray advesive and some foil tape (the foil-backed bubble stuff from Camping World does not work well at all). Pull out the carpet.
You will have to cut and trim the pad to fit inside the engine cover and glue it down with the spray adhesive. Tape the edges to seal out water and dust.
Cut and fir the pads to fit the floor pan. Leave the pad cut back about 1/2 to 3/4" to allow reinstaling the trim and such. Trim back around the seat bolt holes. Reinstal the carpet, seats and trim.
It took me about 4 hours and was a 500% improvement. The heat shield is not such a good idea as there really is not room to install it where it needs to be.
What is bad about this is Ford and the coach makers have know about this problem since day one. The Club vans have a heat pad in the floors and they cheap out and say it is the coach manufacturers problem.
Ken
Amateur Radio Operator.
2013 HitchHiker 38RLRSB Champagne, toted with a 2012, F350, 6.7L PSD, Crewcab, dually. 3.73 axle, Full Time RVer.
Travel with a standard schnauzer and a Timneh African Gray parrot
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86Scotty
Maryville Tn.
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Joined: 08/10/2004
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Did this installation require removing the doghouse and the passenger seat for installation? Could it have been installed from below instead?
Sneaks, NOTHING can be done from underneath a class C. I think if more people knew just how close the exhaust/engine was to where they were sitting, they wouldn't buy vans. It's all crammed in there like sardines. Very hot sardines. Pleasant thought, eh?
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Deb and Ed M
SW MI & Space Coast, FL USA
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Joined: 06/07/2004
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TXiceman wrote:It took me about 4 hours and was a 500% improvement. The heat shield is not such a good idea as there really is not room to install it where it needs to be.
I gently disagree. The Koolmat heat shield takes about 5 minutes to install, with the removal of the doghouse only. Two stainless-steel "zip strips" hold it in place. Once in place, the heat from the exhaust manifold can't reach the steel floorboard - problem solved.
It's not the cheapest solution - I paid $60 for a 10" x 5" piece and 2 straps. But if it works for NASA and NASCAR - I doubt my motorhome will overwhelm it :-)
But one more thing: my MH had NO insulation between the carpet and floorboard. I do not regret adding insulation - if only to prevent the ambient heat rising off the engine once stopped, from heating up the cabin area. But for those who DO have insulation under the carpet - the heat shield is a quick and easy fix.
Deb
Ed, Deb, and 2 dogs
2018 Rockwood Mini Lite 2109S
I never know what we'll be pulling it with!
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smokeater1
CA
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Joined: 09/18/2005
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I also ordered a section from Koolmat. It works just fine on our 2005 27'Minnie. Took maybe 5 minutes to install the shield with my wife to hold it in place while I fit the ty wraps in . Now my wife's foot does not melt ! They also make a great under carpet mat that cuts sound as well as heat.
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kaagee
Burlington Ontario
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Joined: 06/24/2005
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I took my seats out and covered the complete floor with KoolMat..
Makes a BIG difference..
I was going to just do the manifolds. But, my feeling is that there is not enough cooling for the manifolds as it is.. So covering the manifolds is trapping more heat. I've had trouble with warped manifolds before!! That's my 2 cents..
Ken
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TXiceman
Full Time RVer
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Ford and the coach manufacturers have know since day one about the floor heat and both deny the problem exist. I pulled the seats and the carpet and installed 3/8" foil backed fiber heat shield on the floor. Also lined the inside of the engine cover. Fords engine cover heat shield is pretty whimmpy. Use a high temp spray adhesive and use a foil tape to seal the seams and edges on the engine cover.
When cutting and fitting the material for the floor, leave it cut back about 3/4" shy of the edge to allow the carpet to lie flat when reinstalled.
In south Texas, the floor got so hot, it would melt my wifes lipstick in the purse she sat on the floor. The engine cover was so hot it was not bearable to touch. Plus all of the extra heat radiating into the cab made the A?C fall short.
You can get all of you supplies from www.jcwhitney.com. The foil bubble stuff that Camping World sells is not suitable for the high temp it sees.
Ken
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Deb and Ed M
SW MI & Space Coast, FL USA
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Joined: 06/07/2004
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TXiceman wrote:Ford and the coach manufacturers have know since day one about the floor heat and both deny the problem exist. Ken
I'm not a car-repair knowledgeable person - but even *I* can see that placing the manifold a mere 1 1/4" from the metal floorboard is going to make for some uncomfortable tootsies!! And in our case, there was NO insulation under the carpet at that point, until I did some retrofitting. I'm amazed that the carpet didn't simply melt onto the floorboard.
Deb
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NHclassC
NH
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Joined: 02/23/2004
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Quote:I was going to just do the manifolds. But, my feeling is that there is not enough cooling for the manifolds as it is.. So covering the manifolds is trapping more heat. I've had trouble with warped manifolds before!! That's my 2 cents..
I Agree, I would like to here from those that have covered the manifolds, if they worry about trapping more heat. I have replaced manifolds and a cracked head, VERY expensive.
Jim
2009 Wildcat 28RKBS
2008 Chevy 3500 Duramax/Allison
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kaagee
Burlington Ontario
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Joined: 06/24/2005
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NHclassC wrote:Quote:I was going to just do the manifolds. But, my feeling is that there is not enough cooling for the manifolds as it is.. So covering the manifolds is trapping more heat. I've had trouble with warped manifolds before!! That's my 2 cents..
I Agree, I would like to here from those that have covered the manifolds, if they worry about trapping more heat. I have replaced manifolds and a cracked head, VERY expensive.
Jim
I have heard of and know someone with a V10 that popped the exhaust manifolds studs right off the cyl. heads....And that was without the manifold heat deflector! ![[emoticon]](http://www.rv.net/sharedcontent/cfb/images/frown.gif "frown") Thats's why I spent about 5 hrs. and I think about $250 for the KoolMat insulation.
Ken
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