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 > Pictures of home built frame mount tie down system

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Spott

SE Michigan

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Joined: 12/03/2003

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Posted: 02/07/06 03:10pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

These are the mounts I made, pieces sticking out can be removed when camper is not on the truck.

[image]

This is the front belly bar

[image]

[image]

And the rear, two pieces to get below the fender. First piece goes into the hitch ends and then the extension.

[image]

[image]

[image]


Me - Kim - Spot
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PR Connection

Powell River BC

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Posted: 02/07/06 03:17pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Here are mine on my 02 chev

[image]

[image]

[image]

[image]

Hope this helps someone. These are not removable.

Dan


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RDalr

St-Zotique

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Posted: 02/07/06 04:24pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Spott,
Is this one inch tubing at the front? If so, is it prone to bend under load? I believe mine is 2 inches at the front! Perhaps I could have used half the size.


RDalr

Spott

SE Michigan

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Posted: 02/07/06 04:43pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The front are made from 2" square 1/4" wall and 1 1/2" with 3/16" wall.

The rear are 2" with 1/4" wall and 2 1/2" with 3/16" wall.

RDalr

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Posted: 02/21/06 05:05pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

spott,

thanks for the reply.

Long Lizard

Pollock Pines,CA

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Posted: 08/30/06 05:55pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I built the rear camper mounts on my '06 Ford by simply using two inch O.D. tubing and welding tabs on the outside to hook onto. The tubing slides easily into Fords newer receiver hitches with no body interference. Twenty bucks or so in materials and it's overbuilt.


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cdl2

ohio

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Posted: 08/31/06 06:27am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You guys must love to weld, looks good. Before I got Stable-Lift I bolted a piece of square tubing to the frame, didn't stick out past the body. Then slide in a piece of unistrut, with eye bolts. When TC was off truck slide out the unistrut, I didn't have to watch out for my shins getting busted-up.

mokai

Springfield , OR

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Posted: 04/30/07 09:31pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Here are the custom tie-downs I had made for my Toyota Tacoma...They are Class 1 receivers welded to the frame and pinned so the posts can be removed when not in use..

front
[image]

[image]

rear
[image]

[image]


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30yrtc

Monson,Me

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Posted: 05/01/07 05:06am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mokai
I do not want to sound negative, please , this is to be a constructive comment:

The chains do not have enough 'angle' fore and aft, I do not see the size of the TC, If it is heavy, and rough roads , it may be a problem.

Hooks are also not the best idea, if camper shifts, hooks can drop off.

JoeChiOhki

Sauvie Island, OR

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Posted: 05/01/07 05:12am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

That'd have to be a lot of shift 30 yrtc, I use turnbuckles pretty similar to those on mine and have had the camper shift more than once without them coming out of the eyes on my happijack ears. It may be due to the pitch being different or something, unless I'm looking at something totally different than you.

On the angle, I can't think the pitch is too far off from what you get with a set of Tork Lifts front or aft. You only get a good 45 degree style angle in the front if you're using a bed mounted tie down, any kind of frame mounted tie down is going to have far less pitch due to the restriction in how far foward you can place that tie down point without interfering with something else, like the doors on the cab for example.

I will note that both is front and rear tie downs are angled forwards vs opposing angles which help hold for both forward and backward movement in addition to the side to side. So, while I doubt he'll have too much trouble with it shifting backwards, he may have a chance at some take off in the rear over a particularly hard bump if the camper tips forward at all. (Presuming there's a gap in the front of the truck bed created by rubber bump stops of some sort)


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