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 > Norcold Refridgerator Question

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GaDawgFan

Atlanta

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Posted: 01/08/07 08:18pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Joeycockerspaniel wrote:

Hey Dawg Fan,

First, pull the outside cover off and check the 12V fuses on the new circuit board. If they installed the board without turning off the power, the fuses could have been blown.


Second, have someone try to start the fridge on gas from control panel on the inside. While they do that, you look to see what happens on the outside. You should hear (or even see) a spark igniter try to start the flame. You should also hear a click as the the gas shutoff opens up to allow gas through to the igniter. (I have even tried lighting the gas with a match before to see if gas is coming through.) If the gas flame ignites but then exinguishes it could be a bad thermocouple (that device the flame burns on to).

Third, look for loose connections, stray wires in the area under the exterior panel. Tech's are bad about leaving things incomplete.

As far as dealing with the dealer, good luck. You will be better off learning how to fix things yourself than being dependant upon RV dealer technicians. JMHO.

Good luck,

Tech Fan


I can hear the clicking sound as it tries to light, but after a minute or two of trying it shuts itself down and the panel on the fridge begins to beep and the panel reads "no flame". I will add that I can ocasionally get it to light but it is so inconsistant I would not try to take off on a trip with it.

I am learning real quick that I have to learn these systems for myself or else continue to give all my money to the dealership.


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RayChez

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Posted: 01/08/07 09:09pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I don't know which Norcold you have, but I had a similar problem with my Norcold 1200 four door. It was giving me a digital code of a problem. I can't remember what the code was, but it turned out to be the flue needed to be cleaned out. I took the coach to a place called Kampers Corner and they blew it out with a pressure nozzle. It has worked good ever since. I was also told by Norcold customer service that maintenance like that should be done at least once a year in order for their warranty to be good.


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BillyP

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Posted: 01/08/07 09:26pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Flashnet wrote:

I've also got a Norcold with problems. On mine I can start it and it will run on propane while I hold the primer switch in. The light will stay lite up until I release the primer. This happens every time.

Anyone got a clue whats wrong with it? I checked the vent and removed the pilot assembly and cleaned it and reinstalled it with same results.


Make sure that the button is being pushed all the way in, not just enough to lite the pilot. Not sure what frig you have, but it probably has a magnetic safety valve that must be pushed till the plunger contacts the magnet. Other wise, the sensing bulb is probably bad, not in the flame properly, or has too much soot buildup.


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Posted: 01/08/07 09:32pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

marty1ton wrote:

First thing I would ask them is why isn't a systems test included in that $400. I would think that they would have shown you that it was now working before they sent you on your way.


A lesson we all learn the hard way....Make them show you it works before you leave and then test it a number of times yourself.....I have had to leave a coach many times to be repaired again after they told me it was completed.





Joeycockerspaniel

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Posted: 01/09/07 05:19am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hey Dawgfan,

Check the fuses on the new circuit board. Check any in line fuses you see in the compartment. Check the 12V fuse to the fridge in the house fuse box. I'll bet one of them is blown.

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Joeycockerspaniel

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Posted: 01/09/07 05:21am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Finally, even check the LP gas alarm inside. Make sure the alarm switch is on. If that switch was inadvertently kicked off, no gas anywhere in the coach, such as cooktop.

tgobob

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Posted: 01/09/07 08:13am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a Norcold with an automatic icemaker. The icemaker requires 120 volts even when the refrigerator is running on propane. On my coach the icemaker is connected to my inverter through an electrical outlet inside the panel on the outside of the coach. Actually, there are 2 electrical outlets inside that panel. The outlet for the icemaker is labeled "Inv" and the other outlet isn't labeled at all. Your refrigerator should be plugged into the unlabeled outlet and the icemaker should be plugged into the "Inv" outlet. If these two wires are reversed, you'll get the symptoms you describe. It's a very simple check. Just look. Won't cost you a dime and will take no more than 3 minutes. By the way, a Norcold dealer with authorized service told me the problem was a bad circuit board. Luckily he couldn't locate a circuit board for me. Coach Care Div of Cummins Northwest in Coburg, OR found and corrected the problem at no charge to me.


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joelbaker

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Posted: 01/09/07 08:19am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Are you sure the LP is turned on? Can you light the stove? In my previous coach if it had been sitting for a while it didn't draw enough propane to light the fridge but if I turned on the stove burners to get the propane flowing it would light.


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bcbeal

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Posted: 01/09/07 08:22am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

tgobob wrote:

I have a Norcold with an automatic icemaker. The icemaker requires 120 volts even when the refrigerator is running on propane. On my coach the icemaker is connected to my inverter through an electrical outlet inside the panel on the outside of the coach. Actually, there are 2 electrical outlets inside that panel. The outlet for the icemaker is labeled "Inv" and the other outlet isn't labeled at all. Your refrigerator should be plugged into the unlabeled outlet and the icemaker should be plugged into the "Inv" outlet. If these two wires are reversed, you'll get the symptoms you describe. It's a very simple check. Just look. Won't cost you a dime and will take no more than 3 minutes. By the way, a Norcold dealer with authorized service told me the problem was a bad circuit board. Luckily he couldn't locate a circuit board for me. Coach Care Div of Cummins Northwest in Coburg, OR found and corrected the problem at no charge to me.


Bob, the ONLY difference between those plugs is which will run OFF the Inverter when on Inverter. If the Inverter is OFF, then there will be no difference as there will be normal 110 pass thru current on that "INV" plug . Running the Main refer 110 plug off the Inverter circuit is no problem. I sell and Service Monaco so I do know the wiring on the product. Defective or "bad" 110 will not affect the refer if trying to run on LP and not in the Auto mode. Brent

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