RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Sway Crash Help me understand what I did wrong

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Towing

Open Roads Forum  >  Towing

 > Sway Crash Help me understand what I did wrong

This Topic Is Closed  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 7  
Prev  |  Next
Sponsored By:
Golden_HVAC

Fairview OR, USA

Senior Member

Joined: 08/19/2003

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 12/09/07 02:13pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Does your hitch look like this one?



Check out this thread.

www.woodalls.com/cforum/index.cfm/fuseac........d/tid/15023941/srt/pa/pging/1/page/5.cfm

Strollin had a hitch failure while driving on the freeway, with practicall no wind at all. The RV did not overturn, but went into a freeway sound wall.

Fred.

Ivylog

Blairsville, GA and WPB, FL.

Senior Member

Joined: 06/30/2004

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 12/09/07 02:17pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I think you did everything right and glad you are OK. Had a similar trailer wiggle after loading too many bargains in the back of my Airstream. At 45 MPH it started, but putting on the brakes and keeping on the throttle straightened it out and then getting off the gas to stop. Moved the stuff forward and never happened again. I would second guess your decision to get a more fuel efficient tow vehicle. I'd rather pay higher fuel expense than doctor's after getting a guy out of a VW bug that tried to hurt a pine tree. The tree was not hurt and he survived with two compound broken legs and I've not owned a small vehicle in 40 years.
Sure looks like a bunch of poor welds on the broken hitch in the link/pictures above. Can't read the ratings but not much of a equalizing hitch. I'd have someone look at the welds on your hitch.


This post is my opinion (free advice). It is not intended to influence anyone's judgment nor do I advocate anyone do what I propose.
08 HR Navigator 45'
Sold 04 Dynasty after 14 great years.


Flipstick357

Topeka

New Member

Joined: 08/03/2007

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 12/09/07 02:29pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I commutte 60 miles one way to work I had to give up the 1 ton for a civic The tahoe is the wifes vehicle. I thing my next RV will be a class C.

tomhole

Loveland, OH

Senior Member

Joined: 08/15/2005

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 12/09/07 03:15pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Was the hitch failed after the crash? If so, there are tests that can be done to determine the failure mode. Unlike as was mentioned earlier, tests can reveal whether the hitch failed due to fatigue or stress and whether there were any material or weld flaws in the hitch before or after the crash. Might be worth checking into if the insurance company wants to blame you and raise your insurance. I can assure you that with the right analysis, someone can tell you if the hitch failed before or after the crash and the exact failure modes.

Tom


Wife, 2 girls 14 & 11, 2 mini schnauzers, 2 cats, a pig and a fish
2008 Toyota Tundra 4x4, DC, SR5, 5.7L, 6 spd, 4.30 rear
2005 Toyota Sienna XLE
2008 Rockwood Ultra Lite 2701SS
F/A-18 Hornet 0-175 mph in 2 seconds


RicJones

So. Cal.

Senior Member

Joined: 10/29/2007

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 12/09/07 03:23pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It's really hard to say after the fact but my money's on the receiver broke from what others have said.

PavementPilot

Vernon, BC

Senior Member

Joined: 08/21/2007

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 12/09/07 03:41pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I think I would go with the wind theory. That is the first thought I had after reading the original post without reading any of the others.


DW, 2 girls, and me
07 Freestar
76 Parklane Tent Trailer
08 Minn Kota 30 lb Troller
56 Featherlite 10' Cartopper
Nights camped in 2007: 14
Nights camped in 2008: 10

17 years Professional Driving accident free all over North America


Chuck&Gail

In the Colorado Mountains

Senior Member

Joined: 06/16/2004

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 12/09/07 03:53pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Glad everyone is ok, that is important bit.

Everything is a guess. One point struck me however. You had TT brakes on full and yet it jacknifed going up a hill. Only way I can see that happening is if hitch let TT tongue hit the ground with TT brakes sliding wheels. THAT would cause jacknife with brakes on, quicly. Personally can't think of any other way to jacknife with TT brakes on going up a hill.


Chuck
Wonderful Wife
Australian Shepherd
2010 Ford Expedition TV
2010 Outback 230RS Toybox, 5390# UVW, 6800# Loaded
Not yet camped in Hawaii, 2 Canada Provinces, & 2 Territories
I can't be lost because I don't care where this lovely road is going

LarryJM

NoVa

Senior Member

Joined: 11/09/2007

View Profile



Posted: 12/09/07 03:54pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Glad to hear nobody got hurt. As far as what might have been the cause hitch failure is obviously one suspect, but it could have be partially that and a combo of any of the following might have contributed and when combined with less than favorable wind conditions in total caused the accident. Such as too long of TT lightly loaded with light tongue wt. with a lighter and not optimum SWB TV using a non optimum sway control system.

When loading my TT for any trip I always use a tongue scale and try and get at least around 10 to 14% of the GAWR of the TT as the tongue wt. For example with TT with two 3500 lb axles, I like a tongue wt between 850 and 900 lbs. Also, I hit the first scales I come across and get actual weights since then I will know exactly where I'm at. Guessing or using published weights are just that guesses IMO.

With the known hitch problems, I agree with one of the other posters that with proper analysis one could determine if the hitch had started to fail before the actual accident. I would make sure I preserved that hitch for further analysis and look at that if the insurance company gives you any trouble.

Larry


2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974.
RAINKAP INSTALL////ETERNABOND INSTALL


eurohazard

Travis AFB, CA

Senior Member

Joined: 12/09/2006

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 12/09/07 04:21pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Chuck&Gail wrote:

Glad everyone is ok, that is important bit.

Everything is a guess. One point struck me however. You had TT brakes on full and yet it jacknifed going up a hill. Only way I can see that happening is if hitch let TT tongue hit the ground with TT brakes sliding wheels. THAT would cause jacknife with brakes on, quicly. Personally can't think of any other way to jacknife with TT brakes on going up a hill.
That's what I'm thinking too.

I'm glad everyone is safe! It sounds like a job well done behind the wheel.


-2006 Nissan Armada LE 4x4
-2007 Coachmen 19FLB SE
-2007 Regal 1900 w/ 4.3 EFI Volvo
Supercharged wrote:

4-in-a-fiver and my statments make the same amount of since.



BenK

SF BayArea

Senior Member

Joined: 04/18/2002

View Profile



Posted: 12/09/07 04:40pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I've been afraid that this poorly designed and poor quality control
receiver (IMHO) would start to come apart after a few more years.

Here are some links and pictures I've been saving for this discussion(s).

These two images from a fellow member who didn't like his GM receiver
and decided to re-weld it's joints. In grinding the old welds to clean
it up in prep for the new welds, found this. Both of the same spot,
second a bit more ground away.
[image]
[image]
This shows that the factory welds did not fuse the two parts together.
The materials surface rust was not removed, or one of the pieces was
not grounded correctly (due to poor tooling and/or rusty contact), or
the welder was not set up properly. This indicates that the two pieces
'look' like they are welded together, but are in reality not at all.
Since high volume production, how many have this issue in their welds????

Another member posted pictures of his that tore loose and flipped over
his TT. These show that it came apart at a weld and propagated into
this result. Think it had either/or both poor welds from the factory
and was busted long before 'this' accident....think yours is a ditto...it
was busted long before 'this' accident and something during 'this'
accident was the last straw on the camels back.... I say 'tin
canning'....of that last bit holding till it finally broke off. Notice
the it also tore out one of the bolts from the underneath the bumper
and think that was one of the 'last' pieces holding it on....
[image]
[image]
[image]


It all started with Burbman's post asking what the heck....look see
what happened to mine...notice that the welds are very rusty and
not shiny, which means the welds were either not good from the factory
or they broke long before 'this' accident. Then compare them to the
shiny breaks, which were new breaks and are a good comparison on
'this' one, as they all saw the same conditions (loading, weather, etc)
[image]
[image]
[image]


I've taken some pictures of several Suburbans, Tahoe, trucks and two
of them here. Notice that these two have body lifts and what they did
to keep the bumper connection. Also notice the bending of the bumper
bracket and the bracket area where it bolts to the frame rails.
[image]
[image]
[image]
[image]
[image]




[image]
[image]
[image]
[image]


There was another member who only towed a popup and only for a short
period. Found a crack on his cross tube and reported it to the NHSTB.
Can't find that picture and didn't make a copy of it. Will try to
find that one later.

There 'was' a link to file a complaint to the NHSTB, but it's been
removed. I'll dig it up, or someone can post that info.

I'll come back to comment some more later and post links to old
threads, but think the link Barney posted has most of them.


-Ben Picture of my rig
1996 GMC SLT Suburban 3/4 ton K3500/7.4L/4:1/+150Kmiles orig owner...
1980 Chevy Silverado C10/long bed/"BUILT" 5.7L/3:73/1 ton helper springs/+329Kmiles, bought it from dad...
1998 Mazda B2500 (1/2 ton) pickup, 2nd owner...
Praise Dyno Brake equiped and all have "nose bleed" braking!
Previous trucks/offroaders: 40's Jeep restored in mid 60's / 69 DuneBuggy (approx +1K lb: VW pan/200hpCorvair: eng, cam, dual carb'w velocity stacks'n 18" runners, 4spd transaxle) made myself from ground up / 1970 Toyota FJ40 / 1973 K5 Blazer (2dr Tahoe, 1 ton axles front/rear, +255K miles when sold it)...
Sold the boat (looking for another): Trophy with twin 150's...
51 cylinders in household, what's yours?...

This Topic Is Closed  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 7  
Prev  |  Next

Open Roads Forum  >  Towing

 > Sway Crash Help me understand what I did wrong
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Towing


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2021 CWI, Inc. © 2021 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.