BradW
Mayor of Flat Rock
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Joined: 10/29/2001
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![[image]](http://www.fototime.com/8EED565746F187D/orig.jpg)
Somebody school me on RV dump valves. Mine has worked fine for 12 years. Then the other day after we dumped the large black water valve did not close all the way. At least the push/pull handle does not go all the way back into the valve like it used to. It stops about 1/2" to 3/4" short.
I'm thinking that maybe some TP or something got behind the end of the sliding plate. Maybe its some other problems.
Whats the next step? Remove the 4 bolts and then the valve? Is that difficult? The plastic pipe on each side of the valve seems to be anchored down pretty good. Do I have to move the two pipes to remove the valve?
Thanks for any help,
Brad
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dbbls
Arkansas
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The pipes will have to spread some. There is a rubber seal in there that goes into a recess in both the flange and valve. It helps if they can be spread about 1/2 inch.
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BillArf
NY and Florida
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Joined: 03/21/2005
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Remove the 4 bolts. Spread a bit and that whole piece labeled 101945 comes out. Clean it well, clean the inners and lubricate with plumbers grease and then reinstall. Should get it or you have to replace. Be sure to also lube the pull rod with silicone spray. Doubt toilet paper plugging it.. just has not been lubed in 12 years. 8-)
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skipole
Sandia Park, NM
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Had the same problem with mine after last trip. Mine turned out to be toilet paper stuck in grove at bottom of the valve. I couldn't dislodge it and had to take the valve out.
From the looks of your picture there is a rubber coupler with two clamps around the line going into the tank. (Same as mine) Loosen both and see if you can move the line going to the valve enough to get 1/4 to 1/2 inch of play. If so take out the four bolts and then carefully pry the pipe toward the tank to get enough play to pull the valve out. Don't damage the o-ring.
Clean and lube the valve and the put it back in carefully and don't forget the o-ring. Retighten the band on the flange to the tank.
OBTW This was very messy on mine even though I had drained and flushed the tank sp have some bleach handy to rinse out the compartment when you are done.
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snail
south west Florida
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I just finished changing ours a few days ago. If your's is 12 years old, i would install a new one. Mine cost $12. The biggest problem i had was spreading the pipes. I had to remove a support band.
Good luck.
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dons2346
Sioux Falls, SD, formerly of So. CA
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If you can't get the pipes far enough apart to insert the new valve, here is the way to do it.
Go to the hardware store and buy either plastic or sheet metal in a size large enough to cover the dimensions of the valve. Get the thin stuff, 1/16" or less. Cut two pieces, one for each side of the valve. Now install the gaskets in the valve. Use some soapy water or Pam, the cooking spray to lube one side of each piece of shim. Place the lubed side facing the valve on both sides. This makes a sandwich with a piece of shim on either side of the valve. Now pry your pipes apart enough to get the valve and shims started. Push the valve with shims into place, lining up the holes. Pull one shim out at a time while holding the valve in place. Install the bolts.
There you go.
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BradW
Mayor of Flat Rock
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Joined: 10/29/2001
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dons2346 wrote:If you can't get the pipes far enough apart to insert the new valve, here is the way to do it.
Go to the hardware store and buy either plastic or sheet metal in a size large enough to cover the dimensions of the valve. Get the thin stuff, 1/16" or less. Cut two pieces, one for each side of the valve. Now install the gaskets in the valve. Use some soapy water or Pam, the cooking spray to lube one side of each piece of shim. Place the lubed side facing the valve on both sides. This makes a sandwich with a piece of shim on either side of the valve. Now pry your pipes apart enough to get the valve and shims started. Push the valve with shims into place, lining up the holes. Pull one shim out at a time while holding the valve in place. Install the bolts.
I got the valve replaced. I would have never gotten it back in there without you suggestion on the sheetmetal. THANKS!
I varied from you idea slightly. I greased both sides of the sheetmetal (22 gage) with white lithium grease. And I stuck a 1/2" thick piece of wood between the two pieces of sheetmetal to hold them in place. As I pushed the valve in, it pushed the wood out of the way.
Brad
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BradW
Mayor of Flat Rock
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Hey, thanks all for the responses. Lots of good ideas in there.
One more question. Since it is 12 years old, I think I will replace it while I have it out. Any suggestions on what brand valve to buy. I don't mine spending more to get a quality product.
Thanks,
Brad
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wittmeba
Virginia
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Joined: 02/02/2001
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You may also want to try to get some plastic (large trash bag) under the valve before removal. There may be some left over waste. Try to wrap the valve to avoid the mess. You may need to loosen the metal band to free up the parts to separate.
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lv2rom
Kansas City, Missouri
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BradW wrote:Hey, thanks all for the responses. Lots of good ideas in there.
One more question. Since it is 12 years old, I think I will replace it while I have it out. Any suggestions on what brand valve to buy. I don't mine spending more to get a quality product.
Thanks,
Brad
I agree with the guys here....actually I think you have "rolled the seal" so that it is now out of position and between the knife blade and the seat on the other side. You know all you need to change it out, I like Valterra valves. As long as you are replacing it anyway, near the back (1/2' from where the shaft comes out), drill a small hole and insert a grease zerk for lubing in the future..Just a thought....Brian
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