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 > oil weights

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cowboyz

bay city mi

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Posted: 08/12/02 08:34am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

the problem lies with the manufacturer's wanting to sell you another vehicle in 3 years. Motorhomes are not usually used for the 5 minute run to the local store, they are used to go down the road, often running for hours on end. The major advances in engine technology and oil technology has made vehicles last longer. My two cents is I use 20-50 in all heavy duty vehicles (motorhomes, snow plows, trucks), allowing for proper warm up in cold climates (idling or heaters) then it will give you added protection. If you run a standard 10-30 oil at highway speeds for hours on end, it will break down, the heat will increase and so will friction and then the oil coking. Even a 50w weight oil will lose it's viscosity after hours of operation. Oil coolers will help, except in winter conditions where you need to have some heat in the engine.
People who want better protection need to upgrade to the many varieties of snythetic oils (mobile 1 is widely available), though older engines are looser and will tend to burn or leak the synthetics due to the differences in tollerances. People will say this oil or that brand, I say, as long as it's clean and has no water in it. right now i'm usuing a 20-50 castrol to re-break in a sitting 460, after lets say 1k-1.5k, I'll change the oil filter and add a quart of 20-50, run it to 2-2.5k, then switch to synthetic. the same goes for the differential fluid, the reduction in heat build up alone is worth the change to the newer technology in the synthetic fluids.


Mountain Jack

Shangri-La,Mountain in SW OR, above the Gold Creek

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Posted: 08/12/02 09:36am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Howdy, cowboyz: I use Valveline 20-50.


1989 Pace Arrow 37', Ford 460

Take Care.........Drive Safely...........Grizz Jack..........Happy fishin'.....">">">



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mr. ed

Amarillo, Texas

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Posted: 08/12/02 12:06pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My understanding is that newer engines are engineered to use lower viscosity oils (i.e., 5w-30 or even 0W-30). My fairly new toad calls for 5W-30, but I feel more comfortable using a 10W-30 synthetic, since I virtually never encounter freezing weather. From studies I've done on oils, the consensus is that the lower the number spread of the oil (i.e., 10W-30 as opposed to 5W-30), the less viscosity improvers have been added & therefore the oil will stand up better because more of it is pure. At least, that's what they say.

Mr. Ed

Billdh435

Holland, Michigan, USA

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Posted: 08/12/02 05:18pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

For anyone who wants additional information on oil take a look at the Lubricant Related Documents on the following web site.

http://performanceunlimited.com/documents/index.html


Bill and Betty
2000 Class C Coachmen Leprechaun Ford Chassis Triton V10
2007 Saturn Aura Toad
and our 14 year old Dachshund named Lucky

KOG

Winterville GA

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Posted: 08/13/02 07:35am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Mr. Ed made one very important point, but there are a few exceptions to the rule. Full synthetics such as Mobil 1 can have a viscosity index high enough to meet 5W-30 without any added VI improvers, which is one reason I use that product. Mobil 1 10W and 5 W products have been identical in differently labeled packages in the past. I don't know of any other oil that is the identical product sold as two different ratings (for legal warrrany purposes in that case), and the 0W-30 product is different in Mobil 1 as well.

In general the full synthetics will have a much better additive package because the producers can afford it. A $1.00 per quart oil has the same packaging, shipping, stocking and handling costs as a $4.00 per quart oil. Add all of that up and the $1 stuff may have $.30 of product in the bottle. The $4 stuff can have over $3 of product in the bottle and still make a decent profit for the producer and retailer. Which do you think can be a better product?

mombum

Chattanooga, TN USA

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Posted: 08/13/02 12:34pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

T Bone,
Go to a 20W-50 synthetic and stop worrying. I use 20W-50 Redline, Used it in my Porsche after rebuilding and braking in the engine and had no problems. Put it in the 454 Chevy motorhome at the 5000 mile oil change and so far so good (just turned 19,000 miles).


Time's a wastin'

mombum
'00 Winnebago Journey DP
'02 Saturn
'00 Red Dachsie, Molly

HiTech

Texas

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Posted: 08/13/02 08:18pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It is very bad for modern engines to run heavier weight oils than the manual states. It will void your warranty. The oil journals are just too small for the thick oil to flow through. The bearing clearances are as well. Friction at start up will be extreme. Engines like the Ford v-10 will sometimes make very loud valve noise at start up from improper lubrication if sitting for a few days and then being started with 20w50.

The makers of these motors do a LOT of testing to avoid warranty costs. Use the oil they state.

-Jim

stevenlit

Keizer, Oregon

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Posted: 08/13/02 10:40pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Well, my '87 purrs along on 15W-40. So, I guess I'll stick with it.


Steve and Denice Little and "Cookie" a rescued 16 y/o Long Haired Doxie/Papillon mix
2001 40 Ft. Gulfstream Scenic Cruiser - Cummins ISC, Allison World HD, Spartan w/Granning IFS, Onan 7.5K QuietDiesel
2002 Chevy Tracker ZR2 - "The Pup"

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