RV.Net Open Roads Forum: running some extra wiring while I have my belly open.....

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Truck Campers

Open Roads Forum  >  Truck Campers

 > running some extra wiring while I have my belly open.....

This Topic Is Closed  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 5  
Next
Sponsored By:
btggraphix

Golden, CO

Senior Member

Joined: 03/08/2005

View Profile



Posted: 01/16/09 11:26am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'm going to be in the guts of the basement on my Lance 1191, and I figure while I have it all open, I'm going to run some extra wiring. Mainly, I'm going to replace the one telephone wire and the one cable TV wire, with at least two RG6 quad-shield wires for use with my external tripod-mounted direct TV dish (so DVR will work with my dual LNB dish.) I figure I should also run wires for satellite internet that I may add in the future. Are those also RG6 QS? How many does it need? I will also run at least one 12v line and one GFCI 110v line from the front/electrical bay under the step, to the service center under the wing. This would be for possible future use to power either a 12v heater or a 110 heater for emergency (or other?) use in the service center.

Also trying to decide if there is any reason to keep the phoneline....

I guess if it is feasible, I'll run some 2" PVC conduit for some of the wiring (or all?) Maybe that will be a pain and I'll just run them loose (I'd at least use some split looms for the TV/internet/phone stuff. It looks to be pretty easy to remove the belly pan, so I can always run more later, but I think it makes sense to at least combine some of these into some conduit and do it now rather than later.

I guess I am looking at running:

1 - 110V GFCI AC (romex of some sort)
1 - 12V (gauge? How many amps for little 12v marine heater?)
4 - RG6 (2 satTV and 2 satINT)
1 - telephone

Any thoughts on this?


2006 LanceMax 1191 - loaded and well-used
2005 C4500/Kodiak 4x4, GVWR 17,500


Bumpyroad

Virginia

Senior Member

Joined: 12/01/2005

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 01/16/09 11:37am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

a couple of extra wires just to use to pull stuff thru your 2"PVC.
bumpy





bigjimcruising

Western Washington

Senior Member

Joined: 02/22/2007

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member


Posted: 01/16/09 11:44am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Whew!! I had an entirely different mental picture when I read this topic title! I'd love to do that to my camper but it doesn't look like I can get in there. Good luck with the new wiring!


2001 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4, 5.9 engine with winch and service body. Getting it ready for a new camper and then hit the trails!

1995brave

San Antonio, TX

Senior Member

Joined: 01/24/2006

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 01/16/09 12:29pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Do not run the 120vac cable next to the rest of the wiring. It can induce the 60 cycle hum through the other wires. Run the 120vac next to it in 1/2" metal emt pipe and ground one end.

btggraphix

Golden, CO

Senior Member

Joined: 03/08/2005

View Profile



Posted: 01/16/09 12:43pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

1995brave wrote:

Do not run the 120vac cable next to the rest of the wiring. It can induce the 60 cycle hum through the other wires. Run the 120vac next to it in 1/2" metal emt pipe and ground one end.


Is 1/2" EMT the flexible metal conduit? If so, I like it....I used a ton of that in my garage and have leftovers. There is some code about no more than 360 degrees of total turns for home use, not sure if true in this application. I ran a ground wire anyway even though you can use the conduit AS a ground.

PS: I could instead run the 120v AC line directly upward from the service bay to the bathroom sink area where there already is a GFCI outlet. That would eliminate the need to run AC the length of the camper. Would that be a better idea? I could keep the AC well away from the signal wires that way.....

btggraphix

Golden, CO

Senior Member

Joined: 03/08/2005

View Profile



Posted: 01/16/09 12:45pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bigjimcruising wrote:

Whew!! I had an entirely different mental picture when I read this topic title! I'd love to do that to my camper but it doesn't look like I can get in there. Good luck with the new wiring!


I really like the fact Lance has that belly pan; my old S&S did not and I always thought about what a nightmare it would be to have to replace a tank or fix a leak in one.

silversand

Montreal

Senior Member

Joined: 09/12/2004

View Profile



Posted: 01/16/09 01:01pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Quote:

1 - 110V GFCI AC (romex of some sort)
1 - 12V (gauge? How many amps for little 12v marine heater?)
4 - RG6 (2 satTV and 2 satINT)
1 - telephone


...I've basically done what you are planning, however in the Outfitter Caribou......pop-up!

The only thing I basically did not do (in your list) was run an additional DC circuit to a marine heater; instead, I set up a focused fan on the power center/3-stage converter that provides about 7x the air movement of those fixed converter fans.

Additionally, I've installed an internet AP, router, and...a repeater (all separate devices), with 16 db antenna (the antenna has a magnetized base that sticks to the Happijac leg; the magnet is pretty strong, I once drove off forgetting the antenna on the jack...at 57 MPH for 2-hours, through the rain: no problem, it was still stuck there when I relaized what i'd done!).

Also, I have an entertainment center patch-panel installed, with patch-through for stereo/SPDIF digital audio/analog phone/three RJ 45 megabit patches to router with Cat 6 cable/and a satellite coax feed, with terminator (all RG6 cabling throughout camper). In the 'bathroom' (with the porta-potti) is an industrial (grade: exterior) gasketed AC power box (and an additional 6 outlet filtered power distributor, including line filter for analog telephony connections/data filter too) that run the flat-screen TV and DVD media player (all this is at the rear end of camper).

At the front of the camper is another satellite coax wall plate, connected to the junction device/splitter, that terminates to the outside of the Outfitter (under-wing mounting plate, with terminator cap, too).

The other thing I find useful, is a flood detector. It's installed under the dinette bench, with the sensor in the lowest part under dinette table high-riser, to detect any tank leaks/fill leak problems. All the wire distribution hidden in the camper near the floor I elevated and isolated in case water ever rose inside the camper (if, for example, crossing a deep river with camper aboard?).

It sounds like a lot, but the wires are well harnessed, and hidden. Just the wall plates that need to be seen are seen...

...also have a comprehensive weather station installed, too (that's another story)...

Have fun doing the mods! I know I did. Everything took me (part-time) 2 summers to complete.

Cheers,
Silver-


Silver
2004 Chevy Silverado 2500HD 4x4 6.0L Ext/LB Tow Package 4L80E Michelin AT2s| Outfitter Caribou

btggraphix

Golden, CO

Senior Member

Joined: 03/08/2005

View Profile



Posted: 01/16/09 02:20pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks silver, that's some good food for thought. IT reminds me that I could want signal coming back OUT (such as if I have my satellite receiver decoding and then needs to be sent back out to another camper.....which I have done in the old camper.)

The thing is that I am not into the area where the entertainment center (AV console and DVD player) are located (that is at the top rear of the TC) so this is only service bay (lower left rear) going forward to the under-step electrical center. That does get those signal wires (RG6+phone) at least to the step. I'll still have to see how to get it from there up to the cabover where the existing RG6's come out....but it will at least get me halfway, and if I am lucky maybe I am able to get up to the bunk in this project.

Remember, I'm not spending two summers, I'm spending one long weekend. I have camping to do.... [emoticon] At least the weather is supposed to be awesome - in the 60's down in Denver, so 50's where I am most likely.

I like the sound of the flood warning....cool idea but not bloody likely this time around. I have to focus on the HVAC issues; the wiring will be bonus stuff.

1995brave

San Antonio, TX

Senior Member

Joined: 01/24/2006

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 01/16/09 02:21pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

EMT is the rigid pipe, but the flex will work. The grounding of the pipe is to keep the 60 hertz contained in the pipe and not allow it into the RG-6 and other wires.

Gary3

Windsor, ON

Senior Member

Joined: 12/26/2006

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 01/16/09 02:31pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Just curious as to why the bellypan removal in the first place is there a leak in one of your tanks.Thinking of running another wire to the kitchen area in mine and wondering how complicated what your doing is.


Gary  Lance  1191 solar Gen.

This Topic Is Closed  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Page of 5  
Next

Open Roads Forum  >  Truck Campers

 > running some extra wiring while I have my belly open.....
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Truck Campers


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2019 CWI, Inc. © 2019 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved. | Terms of Use | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS