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Open Roads Forum  >  Truck Campers

 > 2006 Lance 1191 Basement Project Complete!

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btggraphix

Golden, CO

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Joined: 03/08/2005

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Posted: 01/30/09 12:59pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

This will consist of at least two big posts of pictures, please wait to respond if possible until AFTER I complete it! Thanks!

I’ve discussed this project in other threads, and have gotten a lot of help and advice; I thought I’d create a new/final thread for the basement project. What primarily drove this project was the fact that I started having problems with my drain valves freezing when the temps got cold around here. I found the service bay was only staying about 10 degrees warmer than the outside air, at least when the temps were below 20 degrees or so. When it was 8 degrees outside, it was 18 in the service bay.

There is a lot you can do with insulation (see pjay’s thread and some of the other good ones floating around lately) but I figured without some actual heat getting down there via the ducts, it wouldn’t help much. I have plans for modifying the service bay, and I have started that; I have also plans for insulation in the cabin (mostly on the kitchen side behind the microwave and around the HWH ) but I’ll leave that for another post sometime later. I will show some furnace pictures, but just as it relates to the basement project/ducting issues.
With that, first off some safety. I setup several supports for the camper in the event of the camper falling over. Very unlikely, but I played it safe. I put boards across my flatbed boxes to support the cabover, had the jack extension under the belly (for awhile until it was in the way) and some blocking under the bumper:
[image]
[image]
Off comes the belly pan. The Styrofoam is glued to the surface, and was curled up a bit at the edges. Hard to tell exactly how tightly it fit. Some had slid overlapping the trim of the camper a bit making removal a little more difficult. Before putting it back on I made some extra sister braces so I could cut it into a few parts for ease of future removal. As you’ll see, that has already come in handy.
[image]
The next set of photos is the original route of the ducting to the basement.
Too many ducts going through one small opening. I rerouted one 4 incher going into the forward storage there to move it out after this picture, and I may still move the 3 incher to the bedroom to go forward before the bend as well.
[image]
Source of the bedroom air deficiency, the pinched hose. It was squeezed to almost nothing.:
[image]

The route for the basement 2 incher. Starts by going down here:
[image]
From the underside:
[image]
Travels halfway across the belly (aft of the fresh tank) and splits at a T.
[image]
The “straight” side goes to the passenger side. A decent amount of air was probably going here, but not enough was making the turn.
[image]
The “side” of the T headed to the back. Excess duct was stuffed into a corner:
[image]
It snuck under the grey tank, and heads backwards along the passenger side (this is from below, but accessible from the side access panel.)
[image]
And finally, into the service bay. Note one of the sensor wires on the black tank had come off, and one was loose. I found lots of little things to fix, like the band clamp in the prior picture pointed downward and tore into the Styrofoam….so I cut it shorter.
[image]

So now, here’s how my ducting looks. I did get a little help from the dealer for a portion….they switched out the 2 and 4 inch ducts on the furnace end, and cut the hole to the basement seen in this picture and took it across the front part of the belly over to the converter area, and then partway to the back. I changed the rest of what they did from there to the back.
Down to the basement:
[image]
Across to the converter:
[image]
Squeezed between the converter, the wirs, and the framing. I moved the converter forward a little and raised it up some for better clearance:
[image]
Into the mid-section and into a manifold I had a sheet metal guy make (cost $53.) I went ahead an insulated it as well:
[image]
A 4” tube comes in, and three 2” tubes come out the back. One 2” tube just bends around, and points hot air into the same area the old one did:
[image]
While the other two both head to the back destined for the service bay:
[image]
These are too low to allow for a full inch of the foil-faced polyisocyanurate, so just like before, the insulation had to be left out for just that one spot. It is this spot that would prevent a 4” duct to make it to the back.
[image]
Same spot, viewed from the access door. Note my new AC wire, and a 4 lead trailer wire for future use in the service bay. Also note the water lines are up higher, while the low point drain line now runs at the bottom. I removed a fairly big “hill” that line had to take, though I still need to lower the actual drain at the end. I think it is actually higher than the rest of the line.
[image]
Heading on to the corner to get to the service bay. Note lack of insulation in the floor. I stuffed some reflectix in there, but I will remove the rear panels some day but that is a big project. Also, there’s that low point drain line running along the base now.
[image]
And finally, 2, 2” ducts into the service bay! Woo Hoo!
[image]

Next, I’ll run through the belly, first how the Lance came, and how it looks now.


2006 LanceMax 1191 - loaded and well-used
2005 C4500/Kodiak 4x4, GVWR 17,500


btggraphix

Golden, CO

Senior Member

Joined: 03/08/2005

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Posted: 01/30/09 01:56pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I’m going to start at the rear, center, and go around counterclockwise…..

Straight back from the center, you can see how the flooring looks in the very back, and how it would have been above the belly pan before I removed it. Insulated, but not terribly well. The Styrofoam isn’t THAT Great an insulator, and it isn’t completely tight or stuck down. I couldn’t get to this area, until I take apart the whole rear. That is the bathroom duct heading from the step area to the below bathroom area.

[image]
This is looking rearward, below the step area, but above the drawer under the step. The Styrofoam was just stuffed in there as one big piece, laying above the frame rails:
[image]

Looking backwards towards previous picture, passenger side:
[image]

Looking straight sideways, about the middle of the camper.
[image]

Closeup of fresh tank area. Brass valve was pushed against sidewall rubbing into it a bit. These drains are very very close to the side.
[image]

Front right corner. Big gap around propane line (it was grommetted/covered from the outside though.)
[image]

Looking across towards the drivers side…very front of the basement. Nce access to the electrical, and this is where I put the extra wire I ran from the service bay. Since I cut the pan into three pieces I can get back in here easily.
[image]

Converter area….fan is a little close to the bottom, and the screws had worked a little loose. I moved it up and forward a bit (and filled the propane line gap with foam:
[image]

Midway back, along driver side.
[image]

At the very back of the basement, looking in the access panel. Note the water lines….one of them is a low-point drain, and going uphill. The others are pressurized.
[image]

btggraphix

Golden, CO

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Joined: 03/08/2005

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Posted: 01/30/09 01:58pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Now, the finished product…….

That spot at the rear, where I was able to stuff in two nicely trimmed panels. By the way, everywhere there was space, I used 1” polyisocyanurate that is foiled on both sides. I taped all edges, and then taped them into place. The foil helps keep the R value from deteriorating over time. The polyiso is better R value than the pink or blue, and is much better for fire resistance and I think lower in fumes if it ever DID burn. Where there was not enough space (to even crunch down edges etc.) I used ½” polyiso. IN even tighter spaces, or little spots, or even a couple of places I felt like, I put reflectix material in.

[image]

Midway forward, passenger side. Note the absence of that old 2” duct. I also taped down the drain line to be level, and wrapped the hot wtare lines where accessible with a foam pipe wrap. I liked that stuff better than the polyethylene type…this is a thick rubber, also better rated for codes. Also note my 4 RG6 coax lines running forward to go to the cabover.

[image]

Closeup of water tank drain area. Note my wood 1by1’s I used to help back my newly section belly pan. This side wall area is now the original 1.5” or so sandwich with foam, then 1” of polyiso, then a double thickness of the reflectix (same on the driver side –middle section only- of the camper.)
[image]

Water tank, just before enclosing the base. Boy it sure is close to the sidewall, but I have a mix of ½” and 1” polyiso in between, and some reflectix stuffed into tiny gaps. I also tied up the wiring better, and will back the side access panel tightly.
[image]

Converter area, after moving it some. I did NOT insulate between it and the walls, thinking it might need a little more air/cool.
[image]

btggraphix

Golden, CO

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Joined: 03/08/2005

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Posted: 01/30/09 01:59pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Driver side middle. Note wooden cross member I added, low point drain line very low. I worry a little about where that is above the belly pan, and below the grey tank. No aire gets in there, especially now that I insulated between it and the sidewall.

[image]

The one little spot where no insulation can be put. Same as before, but now it is double-wide.
[image]

Holy cow…look at that shiny belly:
[image]

Covered with the panel….now in three sections:
[image]

And the new coax-12v-110v to the service bay.
[image]

All done, right? Wrong! I forgot to put in that dang thermometer to measure temps!

So back in again (last night) in the brutal winds. Some plywood to help minimize it…but it was still spookey underneath if with the trees and camper blowing around.
[image]

[image]

Pesky thermometer:
[image]

Also slipped some reflectix between the manifold and the water lines, to reduce any chafing.
[image]

btggraphix

Golden, CO

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Joined: 03/08/2005

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Posted: 01/30/09 02:00pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OK, have at gang. Sorry it's so many posts....I had a bad character in there somewhere and had to split it up to find it! I won't be back until next week...may or may not be able to reply between now and then.
BT

Mooney

Santa Barbara, Ca

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Joined: 09/10/2002

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Posted: 01/30/09 02:48pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

WOW! Looks fantastic, although I do feel a little dizzy.


'08 Ford F550, Lariat, Link Air Suspension, Roll-A-Long Conversion, Twin Turbo 6.4, TorkLifts, SuperHitch, "Monster Duty Truckasaurus"
'09 Host Everest, Dual Pane, AM Solar, Link 1000,Prosine2.0,Tank Htrs,Honda EV4010,HD Motosat,Wave 6.


fast.5

Ontario, Canada

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Joined: 01/29/2003

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Posted: 01/30/09 04:44pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi: Nice work and real good pictures, If I ever move to a 91 these pic's will be looked at again for sure.
Mike


2004 FORD F350 Supercrew 4x4 V10 Airlift incab controls 42" titan extension.
2007 LANCE 1131 Loaded, Air,Dicor,all weather packages Awning&Slide awning,2500lp Onan camp power,back up camera,dish
Fast.5 Reno Page http://community.webshots.com/user/fast5


d3500ram

Colorado

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Joined: 07/31/2006

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Posted: 01/30/09 03:11pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Can you cook gumbo in that thing now that all this work is done??[emoticon]

DonCurley

La Sal, Utah

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Joined: 12/27/2006

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Posted: 01/30/09 03:15pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Really nice job Brian, and a thorough write-up to go with it. Will be interested to hear how the temps are in your service bay now.


-'07 Dodge 3500/QC/SB/SRW/4x4/6.7L CTD/6-spd auto/35" Toyo MT's/Ride-Rite air bags/RS9000XL shocks
-'07 Apex 8 fully optioned w/220W solar/2 T-145's/2KW Prosine/Honda EU2000i/Tundra fridge/AC/etc
-'00 Jeep Wrangler TJ 4x4, highly modified w/5.9L Magnum V8


goldwinghauler

Monterey, TN

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Posted: 01/30/09 08:13pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Nice job!!!


2017 Dodge Ram 3500HD Cummins Diesel CC LB 4WD Dually w/ Supersprings SSA-24 and Hellwig Big Wig Sway Bar
2018 Eagle Cap 1165

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