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Open Roads Forum  >  Class B - Camping Van Conversions

 > Permanent Bed in an RT

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booster

Minnesota

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Joined: 10/14/2007

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Posted: 01/10/10 07:02pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ernie-the whole thing was built in the garage in the pics, including welding. It doesn't take a very big welder for this kind of stuff, I used a 160 amp wirefeed and never got over 40% on the heat. This project really didn't take much equipment at all, radial arm saw, circle saw, jig saw, router, cordless drill, welder, some levels and clamps, and hand tools.

We try to make everything we do easily reversible, to preserve the resale and future flexibility. In this case, the power sofa and original bolster lids could be put back in with about 3 hours work, or less, leaving only the t-nuts and the awning holder in place.

Hit The Road Jack

Treasure Coast of Florida

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Joined: 10/20/2005

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Posted: 01/11/10 05:44am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Very nice job and narration booster...[emoticon]

[image]

BTW, I'd like to know what good a 'Level' would do in a mobile situation, IMHO the van itself would have to be completely level for such a device to be accurate...[emoticon]


2006 DIY Dodge Badged Sprinter Conversion

booster

Minnesota

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Joined: 10/14/2007

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Posted: 01/11/10 07:37am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hit The Road Jack wrote:


BTW, I'd like to know what good a 'Level' would do in a mobile situation, IMHO the van itself would have to be completely level for such a device to be accurate...[emoticon]


Hi Jack (pun intended). I probably am missing the point of your question (that happens a lot with me these days), but the whole level thing only has to do with what baseline to chose for setting all the pieces of the van to. What we found in the Roadtrek was that the various parts were not level to each other. Most of those pieces earn a big "who cares", like the cabinets, toilet, various floor areas, top of the bolster bases, wheel well covers, etc, but some do make a difference. Ours had a considerable difference in level between the countertop, refrigerator, and bed. If we wanted the frig level (for obvious reasons discussed many times here), the bed was head down a bit, and things rolled off the countertop the other way. Very irritating. We eliminated the frig problem by putting in a compressor frig that doesn't have to be level, and now have eliminated the bed problem by making it on the same level as the countertop. Now when we pull in to a campsite, we level to the countertop and are good to go. The reason I put the van on stands and leveled it to the countertop was to make the layout of the bed easier. By having it on fixed stands, the level wouldn't change from suspension compression as I moved around in the van and put weight in and out. Probably a bit anal, but it reduces error and confusion in the layout process. Once the van was level, all I had to do was get all the parts of the bed level, with no other adjustments needed.

As far as being mobile, we do it just like everyone else does (I assume). I have a bullseye level stuck on the van floor just behind the drivers seat that matches the level of the countertop, and we level to that (within 1/2 bubble) when we setup.

Hit The Road Jack

Treasure Coast of Florida

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Joined: 10/20/2005

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Posted: 01/11/10 09:18am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

booster wrote:

Hit The Road Jack wrote:


BTW, I'd like to know what good a 'Level' would do in a mobile situation, IMHO the van itself would have to be completely level for such a device to be accurate...[emoticon]


Hi Jack (pun intended). I probably am missing the point of your question (that happens a lot with me these days), but the whole level thing only has to do with what baseline to chose for setting all the pieces of the van to. What we found in the Roadtrek was that the various parts were not level to each other. Most of those pieces earn a big "who cares", like the cabinets, toilet, various floor areas, top of the bolster bases, wheel well covers, etc, but some do make a difference. Ours had a considerable difference in level between the countertop, refrigerator, and bed. If we wanted the frig level (for obvious reasons discussed many times here), the bed was head down a bit, and things rolled off the countertop the other way. Very irritating. We eliminated the frig problem by putting in a compressor frig that doesn't have to be level, and now have eliminated the bed problem by making it on the same level as the countertop. Now when we pull in to a campsite, we level to the countertop and are good to go. The reason I put the van on stands and leveled it to the countertop was to make the layout of the bed easier. By having it on fixed stands, the level wouldn't change from suspension compression as I moved around in the van and put weight in and out. Probably a bit anal, but it reduces error and confusion in the layout process. Once the van was level, all I had to do was get all the parts of the bed level, with no other adjustments needed.

As far as being mobile, we do it just like everyone else does (I assume). I have a bullseye level stuck on the van floor just behind the drivers seat that matches the level of the countertop, and we level to that (within 1/2 bubble) when we setup.


Thanks for the speedy reply booster...[emoticon]...no chop busting intended...[emoticon]

FWIW, why not just measure up from the vans floor, after all, any additional constructive applications should be parallel/equidistant to the floor...[emoticon]

booster

Minnesota

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Joined: 10/14/2007

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Posted: 01/11/10 09:32am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

"no chop busting intended..."
And none taken.

"FWIW, why not just measure up from the vans floor, after all, any additional constructive applications should be parallel/equidistant to the floor..."

You sure would think that would be the case. I have no idea how they did it, but Roadtrek has (at least on ours) pretty much every part not parallel to the floor. It makes no sense to me, either.

Hit The Road Jack

Treasure Coast of Florida

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Joined: 10/20/2005

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Posted: 01/11/10 09:41am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

booster wrote:

"no chop busting intended..."
And none taken.

"FWIW, why not just measure up from the vans floor, after all, any additional constructive applications should be parallel/equidistant to the floor..."

You sure would think that would be the case. I have no idea how they did it, but Roadtrek has (at least on ours) pretty much every part not parallel to the floor. It makes no sense to me, either.


Gotcha booster...[emoticon]...A job well done on your part anyhow...[emoticon]

bobwalter

Treasure Coast of Florida

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Joined: 11/14/2009

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Posted: 01/11/10 11:40am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Great job booster. Fine piece of high quality workmanship. Looks great. Great narrative also.

Bob


Lynda & Bob ..N8DUV
2000 Safari Trek
sunny Sebastian, Florida


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