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Topic: Mold under vinyl

Posted By: hujorgan1 on 03/06/10 05:47am

I suspected that something was not right, so I ripped-up the vinyl yesterday and this is what I found:

Photo 1
Photo 2

I found the cause and it has been fixed (hole in the freshwater fill tube under the couch). This is real plywood, not OSB thank goodness. There is only one very small area that feels slightly soft - the rest is just wet and ugly. My questions is: do I need to replace all of that wet plywood, or can I let it dry and clean it with detergent and bleach?

Thanks - you guys have been an invaluable resource.


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Posted By: gbopp on 03/06/10 05:57am

Personally, I would do what you're thinking. Allow it to dry then clean it with bleach, etc.. See what you have before you start tearing it apart.


Posted By: BuckBarker on 03/06/10 06:03am

There is a little more to it than just bleach. I would scrape/sand the area to help remove as much mold as possible before using a bleach solution. WEAR A MASK!


Posted By: nelson on 03/06/10 06:54am

I would not sand mold ever. Let it dry then wipe it down with bleach water then let it dry again.


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Posted By: mwebber78 on 03/06/10 07:15am

I remember your prior posting and this is what I was worried about, that the leak was worse then the previous owner told you. Now that everything is open use a dehumidifier and keep a fan on the affected areas. Thankfully, Crossroads uses real plywood decking so once dried the plywood should be fine. I would NOT sand off the mildew/mold, rather go to HD or Lowe's, in the cleaner aisle they sell various mold killing detergents. Mix per instructions and spray the area fully. Allow to dry again. You mentioned laminate flooring to fix after, that should work fine and look nice.


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Posted By: RoadLife on 03/06/10 07:19am

I am dealing with a mold problem. What I am doing is washing down with a bleach solution (1 cup bleach to 1 gallon water) wearing a mask and gloves. This will remove most of the mold. I let it dry overnight, then washed with a good detergent. Let it dry overnight, then wash again with the bleach mixture and let dry. This should do it. If you can, rewash with bleach mixture in two weeks to kill any spores that may have survived.


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Posted By: Davehrn on 03/09/10 06:52am

you might also consider sealing after cleaning with either zinsser or kiltz primer. Personally I'd use the oil based one.. can't remember but I think it's the zinsser. don't go with a poly or varnish will seal but not nearly as good as a sealing primer.


~dave
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Posted By: dougwhite on 03/09/10 07:21am

You might consider using CPES (clear penetrating epoxy sealer). Google The Rot Doctor for info. The CPES will penetrate the plywood, make it stronger, and prevent any wood rot. Getting rid of the visible mold is only part of the process. There may still be spores and moisture within the laminate layers of the plywood. You can use some acetone to help displace the moisture, then use CPES to seal the plywood and make it stronger, and also encapsulate any spores to prevent further spread of the mold and/or rot. If you just remove the surface mold and then seal the floor with a floor covering, the moisture never dries out, and the mold and rot continue.


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Posted By: kearlms on 03/09/10 07:43am

BuckBarker wrote:

nelson wrote:

I would not sand mold ever. Let it dry then wipe it down with bleach water then let it dry again.


Mold remediation companies do not just treat the surface. They must get the tenticles of the mold out of the substrate. You must get the "roots" out or it may come back.


Mold spores grow hyphae which are like long tentacles that reach into the surface it is growing on. If you are not able to remove them completely you will have mold grow again if you have heat, moisture, and an organic substance to eat on. The only way you will 100% remove the mold is to replace the wood. This may not be feasible for you so do your best to get as much as you can and keep at least one of the three required things for mold growth away. If you dont you will have mold grow back. If you just clean the surface you are only getting the mold spore on top. True the mold spore is what breaks open and spreads mold but if the hyphae are left behind you can and will have the problem show up again.


Posted By: milo on 03/09/10 06:00am

HappyTrails2U2 wrote:

milo wrote:

...the government does not recommend using bleach


That's a real good reason to use it!! Just what does the government know about anything? They can't take care of their own business let alone everybody else's. I'm sick of these idiot politicians sticking their noses into everything! Anything the government tells me to do I do exactly the opposite! When was the last time they were right about anything? [emoticon]


Yo HappyTrails... I agree with ya, that Borack & his I D ten T's up on the hill have no clue and are tryin to take over every aspect of our lives ....BUT..don't think Mr. Heage was referring to that part of the gov. Some agencies, though very few, within the Federal Goverment do provide a valuable service. One is the "CDC"... If you have ever had to use the CDC for help, your thankful they exist.
So take it for what it's worth.

Milo


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Posted By: HappyTrails2U2 on 03/07/10 10:08am

milo wrote:

...the government does not recommend using bleach


That's a real good reason to use it!! Just what does the government know about anything? They can't take care of their own business let alone everybody else's. I'm sick of these idiot politicians sticking their noses into everything! Anything the government tells me to do I do exactly the opposite! When was the last time they were right about anything? [emoticon]


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2003 Chevy Silverado 1/2 Ton Extended Cab



Posted By: jeffreygeorge on 03/07/10 11:19am

I just completed the exact same thing in my 2000 Nash 22H. The factory corrected the leak and rebuilt the wall for me. (Great service at a great price) I just replaced the vinyl with a no-glue type. I am just using 1/4 round to hold down the edges. I am caulking the edges in the high water areas, bathroom and the entry door. My thought is that if it gets wet in the future I can just pull the flooring back and let it dry.


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Posted By: milo on 03/07/10 06:21am

From Glenn Haege Master Handyman...

To clean up mold inside your home, bleach was the product of choice in the past. However, today the government does not recommend using bleach, due to its toxic fumes and the health risks involved for the homeowner. Instead, it is recommended that homeowners use a detergent-based solution for cleaning mold and mildew. There are also plenty of good products on the market that will clean the mold without the health risks inherent in bleach products.

One product I recommend is Concrobium Mold Control (866-811-4148, www.concrobium.com), by Siamons International. If you have mold growth under your caulk around the tube, you also can use a special caulk in your tub or shower like Polyseamseal Tub and Tile Caulk, (800-999-8920, www.polyseamseal.com), which guarantees to be mildew-proof.

You can go to Glenn Haege.com

Milo


Posted By: gbopp on 03/06/10 07:35am

mwebber78 wrote:

I remember your prior posting and this is what I was worried about, that the leak was worse then the previous owner told you. Now that everything is open use a dehumidifier and keep a fan on the affected areas. Thankfully, Crossroads uses real plywood decking so once dried the plywood should be fine. I would NOT sand off the mildew/mold, rather go to HD or Lowe's, in the cleaner aisle they sell various mold killing detergents. Mix per instructions and spray the area fully. Allow to dry again. You mentioned laminate flooring to fix after, that should work fine and look nice.


Good advice. Just a thought, would it do any good (or bad) to seal the plywood with polyurethane or varnish after is it clean and dry?
I'm not saying to do this, just asking if it would help.
Hopefully someone will have a good answer.
Keep us updated on your project.


Posted By: camperforlife on 03/06/10 08:37am

I think you are on the right track, but I would seal the floor before replacing the floor covering.

My Starcraft Hybrid flooded first trip out because of a plumbing fitting that was missing during construction process. All of the wire and plumbing chases under the floor filled with water before it ran out the walls and the bottom of the trailer. Mold formed under the tub where the water leak originated. The trailer went back to the factory and they removed the tub and linoleum in the bathroom area. They dried it out and then painted some type of mold resistant paint over the flooring and then re-installed everything. They provided pictures that were taken during the repair process and invited me to the factory to ensure that it was repaired to my satisfaction. I have a severe mold allergy that requires me to receive a weekly injection and the repair was sufficient enough to prevent me from having any mold issues.


Posted By: mwebber78 on 03/06/10 08:53am

Wow camper, that is scarey stuff!!!!!


Posted By: BuckBarker on 03/06/10 08:59am

nelson wrote:

I would not sand mold ever. Let it dry then wipe it down with bleach water then let it dry again.


Mold remediation companies do not just treat the surface. They must get the tenticles of the mold out of the substrate. You must get the "roots" out or it may come back.


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