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Open Roads Forum  >  Truck Campers

 > Front end Rebuild

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88lover

Florida

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Posted: 04/13/10 03:52pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

This post is sequal to front end tear down. Still have some rot in the middle of the floor to deal with but wanted to show some progress.
Finding interior paneling still a problem.

Doweling front frame to top sidewall radius block. Note steel dowels.
[image]

Ready to go togeather
[image]

glue up
[image]

Fitting new bottom sidewall frame. Also note the 4.5 wide floor cut out
[image]

Fitting nose radius block.
[image]





Photomike

Southern Alberta or where the camper is parked!

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Posted: 04/13/10 04:04pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Some of the places that I have found for inside paneling is of course your typical lumber stores, but mobile/manufactured home builders use this a lot. We also have a specialty lumber store in town that carries odd lumber (need a 8x8 block of black alder ~ didn't know this was wood, or a 20x20 block of red cedar ~ they have it) along with panels and other strange and cool items.


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88lover

Florida

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Posted: 04/14/10 03:47pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Today had to remove side window and valance to get to staples around the window to peel Filon back some more.
Taking out the window entailed removing the valance and blinds which was easy and came out after removing 6 screws. The window inside bezel unscrewed using a square drive bit. Getting the window loose was another thing as it was well sealed with dicor. Had to soften the Dicor with a rag and naptha then cut with a utility knife to open up a little seam. Then more naptha and finally getting a seam to open up enough to pry with a plastic scraper and more naptha. The window frame was in great shape with no sign of moisture.

The first vertical sidewall member which is 24 5/8 inches and sits back 7 3/4" from the end of the bottom 1X3 and the start of the nose radius block was rotted top and bottom but not in the middle. This vertical supports the closet shelf as well as attaching the frame sidewall to the camper. I removed the entire piece and will assemble the entire nose sidewall outside on the bench then fit it back under the Filon.

a small piece of the top sidewall had some rot under the tin roof. Since this whole piece is 48 3/8 inches long and I don't want to open much of the roof so will have to piece it. It is supported by a 7 1/8 vertical that is intact but i will rot doctor it.

I believe that the work today will have eliminated all of the sidewall rot. Four of the stringers under the bed show rot though and even after cutting away the luann 24" have not hit dry wood. The stringers are not mush but are wet. By removing the Luann directly over each of the stringers allow the bead board and remaining luann to be temporary screwed to a 2X4 to support the structure during rebuild. Once the stringers are replaced and glassed in place, a new sheet of luann can be installed to cover. This will make the floor 1/8 thicker than origonal but will never show as it is covered by carpet..

I hope that no one else has to go through a rebuild such as this. If you do have some help if possible and plenty of time.

* This post was edited 04/15/10 04:40am by an administrator/moderator *

sleepy

Oak Ridge,Tennessee

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Posted: 04/14/10 08:35pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hang on friend... if I get to Fl in a few weeks I'll try to comeby and check on you.... just hang on!

Sleepy


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88lover

Florida

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Posted: 04/15/10 05:13am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Great,It is about time to put out bahia in the pastures and repair a stall door
[emoticon]. Last evening, I was greeted by a cat sitting on the camper bed floor and a horse standing by my ladder watching me.

Getting the Filon and Luann to release from the frame is tough without doing any damage. Not only is it glued with a rubber like glue but also has some spray foam. Most of the work now is just tedious. When it comes time too install the new filon it will be a 2 man job to handle the 8' wide piece that is a little over 5' long. I am glad I have a roofer's magnet to pick up all of the rusted screws, staples etc.

Most of the joints have been bridged in construction by Lance with 1" crown 3/4" 16G staples which is a roofers stapler. I will either need to bridge the joints with fiberglass matt or find a stapler. My stapler is a 7/16 crown which is used for making pallets and fencing and the same size that lance used to attach the filon to the frame but too narrow for joint bridging . I doubt that the joints will move on the steel dowel pins once glued to the luann but want to make sure.

* This post was edited 04/15/10 07:29am by an administrator/moderator *

88lover

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Posted: 04/18/10 05:26pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lance sent me the pattern for the nose radius yesterday. I was guessing the length of the flat section of the radius block at about 13 1/2" long with a 135 degree angle (45) where the block mates with the bottom sidewall and had made a test piece. I was wrong. When I measured the pattern I found the length at 13 1/4" and the angle 131 degrees (41 degrees to set the chop saw). The 4 degree differance from my assumption made all the differance in obtaining a perpendicular "T" joint with the front frame member. Since today was a rain day did not get much done except make the radius blocks and update my CADD drawing of the sidewall and with the CADD I can measure offsets for allignment and doweling of the frame members on the bench which would have been difficult to do working between the filon and the interior panneling.

Since Lance did not have a drawing of the bottom half of the nose I had to calculate the distance and angles. AS the OSB nose radius blocks were destroyed there is no pattern available. It is possible that the interior radius blocks may be different but now that I have some angles to work with should be able to figure it out using the CADD. It isn't fun playing cards without a full deck [emoticon].

Since I intend to (once fitted) soak all of the frame members with the Rot Doctor CEPS I am wondering if the properties of the adhesives need to be adapted as i won't be glueing the filon to wood any more but will be glueing to a resin coated frame structure. Anybody got any advice on this problem?

88lover

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Posted: 04/22/10 08:30pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

sleepy wrote:

Hang on friend... if I get to Fl in a few weeks I'll try to comeby and check on you.... just hang on!

Sleepy


Sleepy when are you Fl bound? I went back and found the sidewall below the roof that attached to the top radius block gone. This part of the sidewall supports the sterio speakers and over bed light that are part of the roof sturcture. Only a couple of inches of the sterio roof structure was rotted so able to cut that away but the top sidewall frame member goes back 4' and I have only about 8" exposed.

The only way that I can figure out how to do this repair is to cut a block of wood in an odd shape to accomplish 4 jobs. 1.(rest on top window brace for support. 2.(Support the front top radius block 3. (Dowel pin to the front radius block at a 5 degree slope to replace missing top sidewall frame member. 4.(support as a sister the remaining 39" of top sidewall frame. Since I have calculated and made a drawing of how to do this, the real trick is going to be the difficulty of sliding the block into place between the Filon/luann and the interior paneling. I can vacuum out the insulation and the void is slightly over 16" wide but since the slope of 5 degrees means the block will also slope and I will have to seperate more of the filon sidewall from the frame for access.

I have been using my machette to do the separation but the going is very tiring and very slow.

This week I obtained enough paneling to redo the inside panel but it was expensive. A single sheet and 8' of snap molding cost $82.00. I still have to find molding that will allow for the 90 degree turn in the nose frame (Lance used piping but molding will look neater).

Also obtained through Ebay a 1" crown stapler which will be used to shoot all of the joints. Even though I am glueing and using steel dowel pins on all of the joints, the 16G 1"crown 3/4 leg staples will keep the joints togeather (provided I Timbor the wood and don"t have any more rot [emoticon] ). 10,000 staples cost $36.00......anybody need a few staples?

I also found a RV place that has a Roll of Filon and also had 1/16 cardboard that can be attached to the Filon to give it the required stiffness but will enough flexability to wrap around the metal nose then continue up to the roof line. 4X8 sheets of cardboard $35.00.
The dealer says expense caused by high shipping cost.

Time for my nap. More later.

88lover

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Posted: 04/23/10 08:16am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Since the block will not reach under the sloped roof to attach to the existing top sidewall, I am considering buying some all thread to use as a screw dowel to bridge the 4" of missing top side wall frame and the new support block.
Then I would use spray foam to fill the void including the missing 4" of frame.

I have some questions about the use of spray foam. When sprayed into the void which will measure about 8" X 8" X3/4, is there any chance of bulging of the filon??? Expert help please!!!

The only other option will be to peel the filon back past the sidewall window. UGH.

Jumbo Jet

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Posted: 04/23/10 09:51am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

lance88lover wrote:

Since the block will not reach under the sloped roof to attach to the existing top sidewall, I am considering buying some all thread to use as a screw dowel to bridge the 4" of missing top side wall frame and the new support block.
Then I would use spray foam to fill the void including the missing 4" of frame.

I have some questions about the use of spray foam. When sprayed into the void which will measure about 8" X 8" X3/4, is there any chance of bulging of the filon??? Expert help please!!!

The only other option will be to peel the filon back past the sidewall window. UGH.


Yes on the bulge. There are some low expansion spray foams.


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88lover

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Posted: 04/23/10 02:31pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

with low expansion spray foam since I would be spraying down in layers into the 3/4 void I would be filliing the void like water in a glass. The pressure would have solid on 5 sides and air on the 6th. Would not the tendency be to just expand upwards where any excess would pop out the top and could be trimed off. If not just the all thread would provide the strength and should not flex much over a 3" missing part.

I could make a block to slide into the void to replace the broken part but the work area is so small I can't get to the jagged end of the broken sidewall to cut it flush.

any suggestions?

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