Hope the answer is no as it's going to be 86 in Mass. today!!
Thanks
Lynn
2003 3330 Jayco Legacy
I think I'm going to risk it if all it does is blow the breaker. 86 degrees in a trailer is not fun.
![[emoticon]](http://www.rv.net/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
Papa Bob
1* 2008 Brookside by Sunnybrook 32'
1* 2002 F250 Super Duty 7.3L PSD
Husky 16K hitch, Tekonsha P3,
Firestone Ride Rite Air Springs, Trailair Equa-Flex, Champion C46540
"A bad day camping is better than a good day at work!"
JoeGood988 wrote:
Not knowing how large an air conditioner you have, most units pull at least 20 amps if not more to operate...15 will only blow the breaker.
Not knowing how large an air conditioner you have, most units pull at least 20 amps if not more to operate...15 will only blow the breaker.
Start up amperage will be higher, but, RV AC units use 10-15 amps and will run on 15 amp service. If you pop the breaker, make sure the electric water heater is not on. Put the fridge on LP instead of Auto or AC.
Matt the Mobile RV Tech
2016 F-250 Crewcab 6.2L 4x4
2012 Palomino Sabre 32' Travel Trailer
Lynn608 wrote:
...a 115v AC 60Hz 1 phase power supply".
...a 115v AC 60Hz 1 phase power supply".
That is the standard North American electrical standard. It has nothing to do with the amount or amps of electricity available.
To answer your question, if you plug your RV directly into that 15 amp plug, nothing else is on in the RV (don't forget the refrigerator and convertor), and nothing else anywhere elseis running on the circuit, then your air conditioner should run without a problem on 15 amps.
To high amperage draw and the unit will not run or blow breaker. To low voltage is hard on the componenets. Voltage meters are inexpensive that plug into an outlet to allow you to monitor for low voltage.
2002 Winnebago Itasca Sunrise 32V
Towing a 2013 Jeep Wrangler
My Wife: Dawn
Myself: Scott
Our Dog: Our new Fur Kid, Kylee
Our Photos
"Quietly Making Noise"
s.lawson wrote:
I've done it with mine many times with no problems. I am led to believe that low voltage rather than low amperage is the killer for ac units. Other's may say different, but we have run ours off the 15 amp outlet from the garage as well as the generator, as long as other appliances weren't running as well, it did fine.
I've done it with mine many times with no problems. I am led to believe that low voltage rather than low amperage is the killer for ac units. Other's may say different, but we have run ours off the 15 amp outlet from the garage as well as the generator, as long as other appliances weren't running as well, it did fine.
x2. We plug into our home shore power a lot, run A/C. You may not be able to run much else without tripping the breaker.
"The only thing more expensive than education is ignorance." Benjamin Franklin
Dave and Missy Boliek
Roxeanne, Bell and MaggieMoo
2000 Winnebago Chieftain
2007 Saturn Aura
Brian
2005 F250 Supercab, Powerstroke, 5 speed automatic, 3.73 gears.
20 ft race car hauler, Lola T440 Formula Ford, NTM MK4 Sports Racer
1980 MCI MC-5C highway coach conversion
2004 Travelhawk 8' Truck Camper
If voltage is OK, indeed if the A/C draws too much power it will just trip the house breaker. No big deal.
BUT, the more important issue for the A/C is whether the house wiring and any extension cords you ran in addition to your shore power cord caused a VOLTAGE DROP. Running your A/C below 108 VAC will hurt it (120 VAC is "normal").
Turning off all other 120 VAC breakers, such as converter, putting refrigerator on propane, etc all insure a better chance of being able to run the A/C.
Brett Wolfe
Ex: 2003 Alpine 38'FDDS
Ex: 1997 Safari 35'
Ex: 1993 Foretravel U240
Diesel RV Club:http://www.dieselrvclub.org/
I have been one of those plug it in and set her rip guys so i don't have any stats on the draw.
2. When these type posts come up, everyone forgets one thing---IT IS THE SUPPLY CONNECTIONS NOT THE RV THAT IS THE PROBLEM. That means YOUR supply is a 15 amp rated WALL outlet and THAT outlet is supplied with a smaller feed Romex 120 wire. So, you are probably overloading your HOUSE wiring and wall outlet which will cause heat build up
3. When you run your RV AC, that is NOT the only 120 appliance running. Your Power Converter will be on and pulling anywhere from 1 to 4 amps.
4. Most RV AC units pull a surge of 17 to 19 amps (less than 2 seconds) on start up. Most RV AC units will pull an average of 12 to 14 amps while running on Hi fan. That means on a 15 amp connection you are at the limit of the supply.
5. It is NOT a safe practice if you will not be in the RV at the time the RV is running.
6. LAST--The BIGGEST misconception is that IF I OVERLOAD THE SYSTEM, THAT IS WHAT THE 120 BREAKERS ARE FOR. WRONG, overloading will not always trip the breakers, that is how 120 electrical fires start. Overloading cause a dangerous heat build up that can cause melting and a fire. Doug
2003 Revolution 40C Class A. Electric smart car as a Toad on a smart car trailer
Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take but rather by the moments that take our breath away.
IF the 120vac wiring is in good condition to the receptacle.
IF the wiring to the receptacle is 12 gauge and NOT 14 gauge
IF the receptacle is a specification grade 15 amp receptacle
IF your 30/15 amp shore power connector is in good condition
You stand a chance of not having a problem for awhile. Eleven amps once running is not 25+ amps while starting and not 35+ amps while starting against high head.
Check voltage in the RV stays above 105 once the air is running.
Ignor any dip during start up.
And if the circuit breaker opens, no harm but no air.
2001 F150 SuperCrew
2006 Keystone Springdale 249FWBHLS
675w Solar pictures back up
John & Angela wrote:
Won't comment on your AC as I don't don't know what it is but to date have never found 13500 AC that draws more than 11 amps once running. i have never seen a 15 amp breaker pop if the AC is the only thing on it...and why should it. It is designed to be run on a single 15 amp 120 volt plug as that is the end that is on the cord. We do it routinely.
Won't comment on your AC as I don't don't know what it is but to date have never found 13500 AC that draws more than 11 amps once running. i have never seen a 15 amp breaker pop if the AC is the only thing on it...and why should it. It is designed to be run on a single 15 amp 120 volt plug as that is the end that is on the cord. We do it routinely.
John, click this link. NOW YOU HAVE HEARD WANT AMPS A 13.5 DRAWS. Go to page 3. The Dometic units pull anywhere from 13.6 amps to 14.6 amps. HOW did you come to state YOU have never seen a 13.5 pull more than 11 amps????? You work on them like me?? You accessed the specs like me?? There are some RVP low amp units out there but don't state for a fact that they all do that. They are NOT designed to run on a 15 amp plug. As I stated, they are designed for a 20 amp circuit. This is from the installation for both RVP and Dometic AC units. Doug
"Route a copper 12 AWG, with ground, 115 VAC
supply line from the fuse or circuit breaker box to the
roof opening.
a. This supply line must be located in the front portion
of the 14-1/4" (±1/8") opening.
b. The power MUST be on a separate 20 amp time
delay fuse or HACR circuit breaker"
http://www2.dometicusa.com/pdf/3109395.032.pdf
Last, just because you can do something, does not mean it is correct and/or safe.
dougrainer wrote:
John, click this link. NOW YOU HAVE HEARD WANT AMPS A 13.5 DRAWS. Go to page 3. The Dometic units pull anywhere from 13.6 amps to 14.6 amps. HOW did you come to state YOU have never seen a 13.5 pull more than 11 amps????? You work on them like me?? You accessed the specs like me?? There are some RVP low amp units out there but don't state for a fact that they all do that. They are NOT designed to run on a 15 amp plug. As I stated, they are designed for a 20 amp circuit. This is from the installation for both RVP and Dometic AC units. Doug
"Route a copper 12 AWG, with ground, 115 VAC
supply line from the fuse or circuit breaker box to the
roof opening.
a. This supply line must be located in the front portion
of the 14-1/4" (±1/8") opening.
b. The power MUST be on a separate 20 amp time
delay fuse or HACR circuit breaker"
http://www2.dometicusa.com/pdf/3109395.032.pdf
Last, just because you can do something, does not mean it is correct and/or safe.
John & Angela wrote:
Won't comment on your AC as I don't don't know what it is but to date have never found 13500 AC that draws more than 11 amps once running. i have never seen a 15 amp breaker pop if the AC is the only thing on it...and why should it. It is designed to be run on a single 15 amp 120 volt plug as that is the end that is on the cord. We do it routinely.
Won't comment on your AC as I don't don't know what it is but to date have never found 13500 AC that draws more than 11 amps once running. i have never seen a 15 amp breaker pop if the AC is the only thing on it...and why should it. It is designed to be run on a single 15 amp 120 volt plug as that is the end that is on the cord. We do it routinely.
John, click this link. NOW YOU HAVE HEARD WANT AMPS A 13.5 DRAWS. Go to page 3. The Dometic units pull anywhere from 13.6 amps to 14.6 amps. HOW did you come to state YOU have never seen a 13.5 pull more than 11 amps????? You work on them like me?? You accessed the specs like me?? There are some RVP low amp units out there but don't state for a fact that they all do that. They are NOT designed to run on a 15 amp plug. As I stated, they are designed for a 20 amp circuit. This is from the installation for both RVP and Dometic AC units. Doug
"Route a copper 12 AWG, with ground, 115 VAC
supply line from the fuse or circuit breaker box to the
roof opening.
a. This supply line must be located in the front portion
of the 14-1/4" (±1/8") opening.
b. The power MUST be on a separate 20 amp time
delay fuse or HACR circuit breaker"
http://www2.dometicusa.com/pdf/3109395.032.pdf
Last, just because you can do something, does not mean it is correct and/or safe.
Sorry my friend and with all due respect, I have not seen a 13500 BTU AC unit draw more than 11 amps. I never said there were not AC units that draw more than 11 amps, just that I have not seen one...and I have seen a few as well. Under the right conditions I am sure it can happen but like I said I haven't seen it. I have had RV some RV techs tell me I am wrong and have simply said "OK, lets check one, we'll use your meter'
I have seen a 15K get close to 12.8. Sorry my friend, just calling them as i have seen them.
* This post was edited 05/01/10 05:19pm by an administrator/moderator *
Jim
Bering MD23(Cummins ISB)w/60" flattop Kenworth sleeper & 2005 Excel 35MKO Limited, 2006 Scion XA.
I ran my older trailer's 13.5K btu off 15amp household circuits for years without issues. To be fair those were quality circuits and I tried not to turn on additional devices other than the converter.
2009 Fleetwood Icon 24A
Honda Fit dinghy with US Gear brake system
LinkPro battery monitor - EU2000i generator
Good luck, safe travels and happy camping!
Doug & Connie
2001 Holiday Rambler Imperial
2001 Subaru Forester toad
So did you plug it in or not
![[emoticon]](http://www.rv.net/sharedcontent/cfb/images/scratchead.gif "scratchead")
Quote:
When doing all the checking on voltage and current etc. are you taking the accuracy of your measuring instruments into consideration?
For myself, I always consider a single measurement to have the possibility of being incorrect. I've got 4 ways to measure AC current: a clamp ammeter, a direct-connect ammeter, a kill-a-watt, and a residential electromechanical watt hour meter obtained from a power company. The watt hour meter result is calculated after applying the voltage and power factor. For the air conditioner measurements, all the current readings agreed within a 2% range. With even 2 measurements that agree I get pretty confident about it, yet acknowledge the possibility of both being wrong.
When doing all the checking on voltage and current etc. are you taking the accuracy of your measuring instruments into consideration?
The fixation applies here as it does to tire pressure. Man!
99 Tradewinds
2000 Explorer Toad
Wayne Dohnal wrote:
Quote:
Well lets see, 12.1 PLUS 2.5 === 14.6 in my book, not 13.6.
HOW did you measure the amp draw on that 100 degree day???
The spec sheet is the actual amp draw for that unit at 95 degree outside temp, so, at 100 degree the correct actual amp draw will be 15.1 amps on hi fan.
If yours was NOT pulling 15.1 amps, then the AC is NOT operating to its full specs and is NOT cooling as it should. The amp draw does NOT go down after running. The amp draw is taken after a minimum of 15 minutes running to get the compressor system pumped to full load.
I admit to the math error. I measured the draw with a direct-connect ammeter, clamp-on ammeter, and watt-hour meter. The unit was running more than 15 minutes. The measurement never exceeded 11.5 amps. If my Brisk Air wasn't running correctly I have the comfort of having a lot of company, thus Dometic must have had a run of bad air conditioners. I've participated in a lot of "can an eu2000i run a 13.5k air conditioner" threads and a lot of owners have reported exactly the same results. It was these threads that led to the careful measurements by myself and others. I don't have any personal stake in these technical threads, just reporting the facts as I see them.Well lets see, 12.1 PLUS 2.5 === 14.6 in my book, not 13.6.
HOW did you measure the amp draw on that 100 degree day???
The spec sheet is the actual amp draw for that unit at 95 degree outside temp, so, at 100 degree the correct actual amp draw will be 15.1 amps on hi fan.
If yours was NOT pulling 15.1 amps, then the AC is NOT operating to its full specs and is NOT cooling as it should. The amp draw does NOT go down after running. The amp draw is taken after a minimum of 15 minutes running to get the compressor system pumped to full load.
Wayne, do you understand that the outside ambient also must be taken into account for amp draws??? For instance, the amp draws are based on 95 degrees ambient. So, if you have a unit that pulls 14 amps at 95 (Hi Cool), then at 75 degrees it will pull 12 amps. So, when you take these tests and readings, when it gets HOT outside, then the AC will have to work harder and will pull more amps. In my example, at 105 degrees it will pull 15 amps. Doug
dougrainer wrote:
Wayne, do you understand that the outside ambient also must be taken into account for amp draws??? For instance, the amp draws are based on 95 degrees ambient. So, if you have a unit that pulls 14 amps at 95 (Hi Cool), then at 75 degrees it will pull 12 amps. So, when you take these tests and readings, when it gets HOT outside, then the AC will have to work harder and will pull more amps. In my example, at 105 degrees it will pull 15 amps. Doug
Doug, I understand! I believe you are basing your statements on the published specs, adjusting for temperature by applying a correction factor that you believe to be correct. I am reporting actual measurements in a specific situation that applies to my use and to a lot of others. I think the specs are a good starting point, but nothing is better than actual, live data. When the data disagrees with the specs, I go with the data. If I were running at 105 degrees, the minimum 103.5 voltage, and had the bad luck to have the unit with the worst-case motor and compressor, maybe I'd see those worst-case current draws. Based on comparisons with other reports, my unit was pretty typical.
Wayne, do you understand that the outside ambient also must be taken into account for amp draws??? For instance, the amp draws are based on 95 degrees ambient. So, if you have a unit that pulls 14 amps at 95 (Hi Cool), then at 75 degrees it will pull 12 amps. So, when you take these tests and readings, when it gets HOT outside, then the AC will have to work harder and will pull more amps. In my example, at 105 degrees it will pull 15 amps. Doug
If you're on the margins, run the refrigerator on gas to save a couple hundred watts. Also be sure your batteries are fully charged before doing this to minimize draw from the power converter. BTW the AC units I've checked use a little less power at low fan speed.
dougrainer wrote:
Wayne, you miss the WHOLE point.
...snip...
BTW, I suspect you are an Engineer? True? Doug
True. My attitude is that when reality doesn't match the specs or theory, there's something wrong with the specs or theory. I've measured a lot of devices like TVs and refrigerators, and I don't recall any of them coming close to their spec'd current draw. I always consider specs to be suspect until an actual measurement is made.
Wayne, you miss the WHOLE point.
...snip...
BTW, I suspect you are an Engineer? True? Doug
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/high-efficiency-brisk-air-13-500-btu-air-conditioner/17965
According to Dometic it has a 15 amp need & draws only 8+2=10 amps when running. I have this one on order. The only negative is that it weighs 20# more. I don't know why Dometic does not advertize this unit. They said I was the first customer to ever want this over the standard 13.5 btu unit. As I sometimes plug into homes outside receptacles & yet never stay at a campground I wanted the lower draw unit. Being a Class B, 20' long, I wished to get a smaller btu unit to cool properly my small space.
Wayne Dohnal wrote:
I had a Brisk Air model 57915 13,500 btuh air conditioner. The specs say the compressor draws 12.1 amps and the fan 2.5 amps for a total of 13.6 . Measuring it on multiple near 100 degree days with several devices, after the current draw had stabilized, the readings were between 11.0 and 11.5 amps. Yes, the specs say 12 awg wire and a 20 amp breaker. I also expect a 15 amp circuit to be able to provide 15 amps without causing a disaster. When running something like this on a 15 amp circuit I know enough to make sure the converter draw is low, or to shut it off, and monitor the voltage inside the RV. In a somewhat similar situation, the instructions for q-tips say to not insert them into the ear canal, yet I know of at least several people who routinely do this without any problems occuring.
I had a Brisk Air model 57915 13,500 btuh air conditioner. The specs say the compressor draws 12.1 amps and the fan 2.5 amps for a total of 13.6 . Measuring it on multiple near 100 degree days with several devices, after the current draw had stabilized, the readings were between 11.0 and 11.5 amps. Yes, the specs say 12 awg wire and a 20 amp breaker. I also expect a 15 amp circuit to be able to provide 15 amps without causing a disaster. When running something like this on a 15 amp circuit I know enough to make sure the converter draw is low, or to shut it off, and monitor the voltage inside the RV. In a somewhat similar situation, the instructions for q-tips say to not insert them into the ear canal, yet I know of at least several people who routinely do this without any problems occuring.
Well lets see, 12.1 PLUS 2.5 === 14.6 in my book, not 13.6.
HOW did you measure the amp draw on that 100 degree day???
The spec sheet is the actual amp draw for that unit at 95 degree outside temp, so, at 100 degree the correct actual amp draw will be 15.1 amps on hi fan.
If yours was NOT pulling 15.1 amps, then the AC is NOT operating to its full specs and is NOT cooling as it should. The amp draw does NOT go down after running. The amp draw is taken after a minimum of 15 minutes running to get the compressor system pumped to full load. Doug
John, what do you mean by "I have seen a few"? 2 or 4 or 10? I have seen probably thousands. The majority of RV roof AC units pull at least 13 amps on hi fan. Did you read the amp draws on the Dometic units from that link? What is your basis for proclaiming your expertise on this subject? I AM a professional and have been for 32 years. I doubt you have ALWAYS seen the Low amp Coleman AC units as you only basis for your erroneous claims on amp draws. HOW and what tools were used for these amp draw readings on your "few". Doug
dougrainer wrote:
"Sorry my friend and with all due respect, I have not seen a 13500 BTU AC unit draw more than 11 amps. I never said there were not AC units that draw more than 11 amps, just that I have not seen one...and I have seen a few as well. Under the right conditions I am sure it can happen but like I said I haven't seen it. I have had RV some RV techs tell me I am wrong and have simply said "OK, lets check one, we'll use your meter' I have seen a 15K get close to 12.8. Sorry my friend, just calling them as i have seen them".
John, what do you mean by "I have seen a few"? 2 or 4 or 10? I have seen probably thousands. The majority of RV roof AC units pull at least 13 amps on hi fan. Did you read the amp draws on the Dometic units from that link? What is your basis for proclaiming your expertise on this subject? I AM a professional and have been for 32 years. I doubt you have ALWAYS seen the Low amp Coleman AC units as you only basis for your erroneous claims on amp draws. HOW and what tools were used for these amp draw readings on your "few". Doug
"Sorry my friend and with all due respect, I have not seen a 13500 BTU AC unit draw more than 11 amps. I never said there were not AC units that draw more than 11 amps, just that I have not seen one...and I have seen a few as well. Under the right conditions I am sure it can happen but like I said I haven't seen it. I have had RV some RV techs tell me I am wrong and have simply said "OK, lets check one, we'll use your meter' I have seen a 15K get close to 12.8. Sorry my friend, just calling them as i have seen them".
John, what do you mean by "I have seen a few"? 2 or 4 or 10? I have seen probably thousands. The majority of RV roof AC units pull at least 13 amps on hi fan. Did you read the amp draws on the Dometic units from that link? What is your basis for proclaiming your expertise on this subject? I AM a professional and have been for 32 years. I doubt you have ALWAYS seen the Low amp Coleman AC units as you only basis for your erroneous claims on amp draws. HOW and what tools were used for these amp draw readings on your "few". Doug
I am no expert and have probably seen no more than 30 or 40. Don't know what to tell you. Honestly you now have me questioning myself. I will check a few out this week time allowing. Anybody who knows me knows I won't have a problem eating humble pie if I am wrong. We'll get back to this thread in a week or so. I wish we could put a case of beer on this...still, now I'm gettin nervous.
Quote:
Well lets see, 12.1 PLUS 2.5 === 14.6 in my book, not 13.6.
HOW did you measure the amp draw on that 100 degree day???
The spec sheet is the actual amp draw for that unit at 95 degree outside temp, so, at 100 degree the correct actual amp draw will be 15.1 amps on hi fan.
If yours was NOT pulling 15.1 amps, then the AC is NOT operating to its full specs and is NOT cooling as it should. The amp draw does NOT go down after running. The amp draw is taken after a minimum of 15 minutes running to get the compressor system pumped to full load.
I admit to the math error. I measured the draw with a direct-connect ammeter, clamp-on ammeter, and watt-hour meter. The unit was running more than 15 minutes. The measurement never exceeded 11.5 amps. If my Brisk Air wasn't running correctly I have the comfort of having a lot of company, thus Dometic must have had a run of bad air conditioners. I've participated in a lot of "can an eu2000i run a 13.5k air conditioner" threads and a lot of owners have reported exactly the same results. It was these threads that led to the careful measurements by myself and others. I don't have any personal stake in these technical threads, just reporting the facts as I see them.
Well lets see, 12.1 PLUS 2.5 === 14.6 in my book, not 13.6.
HOW did you measure the amp draw on that 100 degree day???
The spec sheet is the actual amp draw for that unit at 95 degree outside temp, so, at 100 degree the correct actual amp draw will be 15.1 amps on hi fan.
If yours was NOT pulling 15.1 amps, then the AC is NOT operating to its full specs and is NOT cooling as it should. The amp draw does NOT go down after running. The amp draw is taken after a minimum of 15 minutes running to get the compressor system pumped to full load.