RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Truck Campers: Happijac slide out mechanism problems- FIXED!

RV Blog

  |  

RV Sales

  |  

Campgrounds

  |  

RV Parks

  |  

RV Club

  |  

RV Buyers Guide

  |  

Roadside Assistance

  |  

Extended Service Plan

  |  

RV Travel Assistance

  |  

RV Credit Card

  |  

RV Loans

Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Truck Campers

Open Roads Forum  >  Truck Campers

 > Happijac slide out mechanism problems- FIXED!

This Topic Is Closed  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 
Sponsored By:
Boundertom

Formerly from Columbus, Ohio

New Member

Joined: 01/03/2005

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 07/13/10 08:43pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a 2006 Eagle Cap 850 with dinette slide, which uses the Happijac slide mechanism. I have developed a problem with the slide. When I start to retract the slide, there is a ratcheting/clicking noise. I can avoid this by having my wife push on the slide, while I push the button. I am trying to be careful to avoid doing any more damage, as we are in the middle of a 4+ month trip to Alaska. I had been thinking that the noise was the Happijac clutch, as it sounds a lot like the clutch on my Happijac jacks. I spoke to the Eagle Cap factory today, and the person I spoke to thought it was more likely that the gears in the "transmission"- his word- were wearing out.

I seem to remember reading (probably on this forum) about someone buying new gears from Happijac. I have been unable to locate any such post (I am near Denali, and my internet is agonizingly slow). If anyone has any knowledge about this, I would really appreciate any input. The "solution" suggested by Eagle Cap, is to purchase a new motor assembly from happijac. One problem, is that I will have to cat an access hole in order to remove the motor. If it was easier to remove the motor, I would just do so, and hopefully see just what is going on. I may still have to do that, but I don't really have any tools with me suitable for cutting the bottom of the slide.

Another possibility raised by Eagle Cap, is to replace the complete slide mechanism. They state that the current version is much stronger that what I have now. I could detour to Oregon and have them do it for around $1200. A lot of money, but I plan to keep this camper, and if it is really that much better, I would spend the $$$. Any thoughts on this?

Thanks in advance, for any suggestions!

Tom

* This post was edited 07/19/10 11:49am by Boundertom *


Tom Thomas
2006 Expedition 39Z- 390 watts solar
2006 Eagle Cap 850 - 260 watts solar
2007 Ford F350- C+C,SRW,V-10,4x4,Aluminum flatbed- Super Toad!
2001 Jeep Cherokee
Other assorted toys!


kerry4951

East Central Pennsylvania

Senior Member

Joined: 12/16/2009

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 07/13/10 09:12pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I know what I would do---take a trip to Oregon and get the thing fixed right. If you are going to keep the TC, $1200 would be worth it to know that you have the "better" slide out mechanism, and more than likely no more problems.


2009 Silverado 3500 dually D/A, Supersprings, Stable Loads, Bilsteins, Hellwig Sway Bar.
2010 Arctic Fox 1140 DB, 220 watts solar, custom 4 in 1 "U" shaped dinette/couch, baseboard and Cat 3 heat, 2nd dinette TV, cabover headboard storage, 67 TC mods

wnjj

Cornelius, Oregon

Senior Member

Joined: 01/11/2007

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 07/14/10 12:18am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I don't think the slide mechanism has a clutch. The way I understand it work work is there is a shaft with a gear on each end (for the front and back edge of the slide room) that run against two parallel tracks that are attached to the bottom of the slide. When the slide is all the way in, the leading edge climbs up and out of the gears as the room comes in flush against the outside wall. That's why it lifts at the end and you hear the clatter sound. It's also why too much clattering when you put it in just wears the gears off.

Perhaps your slide room or gear mechanism simply needs to be shimmed or adjusted to keep the gears meshed better? Hopefully it isn't the sign of a structural problem in the frame as some of the older EC's have been known to experience. Is yours an Intermountain RV or ECC model?

U.F.O.

On Canada

Full Member

Joined: 02/15/2004

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 07/14/10 03:41am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I would call Happijac and get their opinion, I found them great to deal with. Frank


1997 F-350SC 7.3 dually Eagle Cap 950 Honda EU2000

Gary3

Windsor, ON

Senior Member

Joined: 12/26/2006

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 07/14/10 03:48am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The motor they used in that year was the same as the jac motor the clutch is that spring loaded nut on top of the motor.Something is causing it to strain and do the clicking thing maybe its the gears like he said but if you can get it to close and open on your trip then it,s not to bad a price for replacing it.I know when I had the jac,s on my previous camper I had to spray wd 40 into the hole were the manual crank went in and that freed things up if thats whats causing it.


Gary  Lance  1191 solar Gen.

camp4

SF Bay area

Full Member

Joined: 04/18/2004

View Profile


Offline
Posted: 07/14/10 10:53pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

After going thru three sets of gears on my slide Im done with putting new gears in.I now push the slide in and out by hand and put a locking bar under and inside to keep it from moving when the slide is in.I think it is a meshing or alignment problem that chews up the teeth on the gear.It comes out really easy.Its right next to the furnace under the seat.


2004 Ford F350 CrewCab Dually Diesel Long Bed Stable Load Bump Stops S/S Dual Exhaust Loaded 2011 Montana 3150 34FT Mor/Ryde Pin/Suspension Reese Elite 18 Hitch John MaryAnn

Boundertom

Formerly from Columbus, Ohio

New Member

Joined: 01/03/2005

View Profile



Good Sam RV Club Member

Offline
Posted: 07/19/10 11:48am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for the input. The suggestion to call Happijac was a good one- I should have done that first thing. Gary, you were exactly right about the clutch. Thanks!

Here are the details, as I posted on the Eagle Cap Owners Group:

I had a very helpful conversation with Gary, at Happijac. He confirmed exactly what I thought- it WAS the clutch slipping. The good news is, the clutch is adjustable, to take up for wear. Gary suggested I tighten the nut on the clutch about 1/4 turn. I probably went closer to 3/8 of a turn, and it worked!

I did have to cut an access hole in the bottom of the cabinet under the dinette, over the motor. I was able to do all the cutting with a utility knife. From the top, there is carpet, 3/16" plywood, 1 1/2" foam, and fiberglass. I just worked slowly, replacing blades frequently. It helped a lot to take the end off of the cabinet, by removing just 5 screws. I then had to remove the two allen head bolts securing the motor to the frame (3/16" allen wrench). Then I was able to slide the motor around, without disconnecting the wires, or removing the motor from the camper. There are 6 screws that hold the top cover onto the motor assembly- just like on the Happijac jacks. These are #2 square recess screws. The two on the transmission end are difficult to remove. Part of the transmission is in the way of getting a screwdriver lined up with the screw. I used a power driver bit, and a 1/4" wrench to turn it. Slow and awkward, but I had nothing else to do it.

After removing the cover, there is a nut (3/4", I think) on the clutch. Very easy to just tighten it. Installation is the reverse of disassembly. The two allen head bolts that attach the motor, screw into a loose plate, which is a little difficult to hold in place while getting the bolts started. There is some grease on the gears. I slid a very thin piece of cardboard under the motor to avoid gettin grease on the carpet.

I do not see any signs that the drive gear has been slipping on the track. I am sure that it is not designed to do that, as it would quickly self destruct. Also the two gears in the transmission looked fine. If needed, they are $30/set from Happijac. I was a little surprised to find that they will sell parts for the slide mechanism, since apparently they will not sell jack parts. I guess it really is a liability issue for them.

BTW, I have always been very careful to avoid the ratcheting noise when operating the slide (or jacks, for that matter). At most, I might get 1-2 clicks.

Gary explained that the "new" mechanism does not use a clutch. It instead uses limit switches to control travel. The motor is also a bit more powerful, which does not seem to be an issue with my unit. Gary said it should not ever be necessary to replace the clutch or parts, just tighten again if necessary. Now that I have a better understanding of how the slide mechanism works, I think I will just stick with the existing unit, for now.

Hope this helps anyone who might have a similar problem.

Tom

This Topic Is Closed  |  Print Topic  |  Post New Topic  | 

Open Roads Forum  >  Truck Campers

 > Happijac slide out mechanism problems- FIXED!
Search:   Advanced Search

Search only in Truck Campers


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2019 CWI, Inc. © 2019 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved. | Terms of Use | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS