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Topic: Cost to build garage

Posted By: Replant on 10/23/10 08:47pm

I've pretty much come to the conclusion that it would be more practical to build, or have built, a garage to house an RV before buying one. So many expensive rigs suffer damage from water intrusion when they are only a few years old. Does anyone have an idea what it would cost to erect an 800 sq ft (20x40) garage with 16 foot ceiling and 14 foot door? For a person with limited means, rather than spend a lot of money for a 2 year old RV such a garage would hold it's value and provide a place to rebuild an RV and shelter it.






Posted By: brirene on 10/23/10 09:02pm

Hard to say depending on materials and building type, but I would guess north of 10-12K without concrete and electrical work. If you can DIY some of it that would surely help. Based on a 30x30 steel pole building I had built last fall.


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Posted By: pianotuna on 10/23/10 09:07pm

Hi,

My brother just finished off a two car garage. Total cost was $27,000.00 with a concrete floor and garage doors at each end. It is not nearly tall enough for an RV. The concrete floor was $6000.00


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Posted By: belfert on 10/23/10 09:12pm

It really depends on what kind of building your local government will allow. If they allow a pole barn with metal siding that would probably be the least expensive. Costs can go up exponentially if you need to have siding to match the house or you can't do a pole building.

I wish I lived in an area that allowed 16' sidewalls. Most areas around here only allow 12 or 14 foot sidewalls. My current lot would barely allow me to build a shed as the allowed sizes for accessory structures went way down.

I would like to move and I got a quote for a 50x40 garage with 16 foot sidewalls built with SIPS and it came to $54,000 without any electrical or anything else. The same with conventional framing came to $35,000 without insulation or electrical. These quotes are probably high based on the current construction economy.


Posted By: Polishnurse on 10/23/10 09:13pm

Most area's want a concrete floor under a motor vechical for oil and gas drips, I priced out at 60 grand, but I was building a little larger. Up here in the north what killed me was the cost of the footings, do to frost, they had to be 4 feet down. You should check with your locale building inspector to find out what is required and not required, unless you think you can blend it in the with locale folage. JM2Cents. Bill


Posted By: Replant on 10/23/10 09:27pm

Thanks guys. The reason I'd like such a big garage is for when I eventually sell my house it would be a big drawing card. For some reason Class A motorhomes far outnumber all other RVs in this town.

I would like to get a 27-28 foot Class C and the rest of the space would make a nice workshop. At 81 years old the high walls would be a challenge for me to hoist into position without a few helpers but there must be an awful lot of carpenters looking for work in today's economy.

The interior walls would be unfinished and I would like 50 amp service. The interior height, a gable fan and the prevailing wind from the ocean would help get rid of the summer heat somewhat.


Posted By: goreds2 on 10/23/10 09:34pm

Whew, seeing these prices here, you need to call around to as many as 5 different places. It was 10 years ago but I had a pole barn garage built (24x24) for $6000. It will not fit my Class B but it is a 2 car garage with concrete. I could not see your type of garage being more than 12-14k. You seem to get more bang for your buck going to a pole barn.


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Posted By: Replant on 10/23/10 10:07pm

goreds2 wrote:

Whew, seeing these prices here, you need to call around to as many as 5 different places. It was 10 years ago but I had a pole barn garage built (24x24) for $6000. It will not fit my Class B but it is a 2 car garage with concrete. I could not see your type of garage being more than 12-14k. You seem to get more bang for your buck going to a pole barn.

A concrete floor is a must but how would a pole barn stand up in a hurricane? The guy behind me had an extension on the entire rear of his house that must have been built without a permit. In '05 Hurricane Jeanne tore off the entire flat roof and flung it over the main roof and came to rest against the front of the house. A good section of the roof flew to the house next door and hit a palm tree one foot from the front of a Class A MH and slid to the ground.
I suppose with the proper anchors and straps the pole barn roof would hold up but I wouldn't leave any vehicle in it during a hurricane. Too much junk flying through the air.


Posted By: Gale Hawkins on 10/23/10 10:36pm

I think the $10K to $30K figures should cover the range.

Floor, electrical and plumbing (finishing it out) can really rack up the price of the job but can turn the RV into home.

Last week one person was telling of their parents building a 40x100 with 16' eves for a riding stable so I will again ask the cost but I know it was going to cost about 50% more if they put in a concrete floor.


Posted By: vern751 on 10/24/10 12:33am

I am suprised no one has mentioned that 20x40 is probably going to be to small. He's looking for value when he sells, it will be to small at 40 feet for a large class A.


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Posted By: 2chiefsRus on 10/24/10 05:00am

vern751 wrote:

I am suprised no one has mentioned that 20x40 is probably going to be to small. He's looking for value when he sells, it will be to small at 40 feet for a large class A.

I was just about to say the same thing. If you are already thinking resale, I would go a little bigger too. Think slides on both sides plus room to walk around each end of the coach too. Even if the next buyer doesn't have a 45 foot motorhome, extra storage room is always appreciated.


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Posted By: JALLEN4 on 10/24/10 05:11am

I build these in Florida and have fifty of them I operate as rental units. You will be forced to build to Miami-Dade hurricane codes that will require a structure to withstand sustained 125 mph winds. That means the doors,any windows,and the roof structure.

A forty foot structure for RV use will be very limiting. You need 45' for a comfortable fit for a 40' unit. I would strongly suggest building a 20'x50' unit with a 14'x14' door for maximum value. Adding 50 amp service is expensive and a bit of overkill although all my units have it. Thirty amp service will run most all coaches in maintenance mode and will run one a/c unit.

A lot of people will advocate a floor drain in the unit but that does add considerable expense. If you put a four inch slope back to front in the concrete slab you will get adequate drainage. In Florida you will constantly fight mold and mildew once built. You will also collect a number of spiders, ants and mice if you do not take steps to combat them. Insulation in the unit will pay dividends in the long run and something most people will leave out in Florida.

In a well insulated unit, you can run a dehumidifier that can be bought at Lowe's for a couple of hundred bucks that will virtually eliminate mold. For about $3500 you can install a Mitsubishi wall a/c unit that will cure the total problem but of course will have to pay to operate it.

A well thought out unit will be a great asset and conversely I have seen people build units cheaply that were a constant hassle. In my experience you will spend $40-50 per square foot for a well built unit that meets all the codes. That does not include any extra amenities you might want and land costs as well as exterior features. In the North I build the same type unit heated for $30-40 a square foot using a pole barn type construction with metal siding. Keep in mind that if you are building adjacent to your home, a well built attractive unit can add value to the property while a hastily constructed cheap unit will be a liability five years down the road.


Posted By: Ivylog on 10/24/10 06:57am

The good old days of building a $10K pole barn are long gone in most of Florida and definately in Vero Bch.
"a person with limited means" is going to be hard pressed to build one big enough (20 X 50) for less than $40K assuming the zoning codes would even let you build a detached garage that big. Currently you can probably rent a warehouse for not much more than the interest on $40K.


This post is my opinion (free advice). It is not intended to influence anyone's judgment nor do I advocate anyone do what I propose.

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Posted By: w4phj on 10/24/10 07:05am

PM sent.

I just finished building an RV garage in Vero Beach built to Dade County wind specs. I can give you some ideas !!


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Posted By: Ivylog on 10/24/10 07:09am

w4phj, how about the rest of us? How much a sq ft and how long to get the permits?


Posted By: Go Dawgs on 10/24/10 10:12am

Look in your local newspaper for ads and also the "Little Nickel" want ads. I see them in there all the time for different types of buildings. I would figure in the $15 to $25K range. Depends on how many upgrades you need.

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Posted By: w4phj on 10/24/10 07:18am

Ivylog wrote:

w4phj, how about the rest of us? How much a sq ft and how long to get the permits?


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Posted By: DianneOK on 10/24/10 07:33am

We will be building a 36x50 in the mountains of Idaho next spring. Will have 3 14x12 or 14x14 doors. Must be engineered and we have a snow load. It will be interesting to see the figures....they are being worked up right now.

We are getting figures for an apt upstairs, as well......


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Posted By: wandering1 on 10/24/10 07:54am

Get a contractor to give you an estimate.[emoticon]


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Posted By: 4*phun*2 on 10/24/10 07:55am

With a concrete pad that big you should really put a foundation around it.

My 30 x 40 shop with regular garage doors cost me 30K 10 years ago.

Concrete is expensive.


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Posted By: Replant on 10/24/10 08:23am

Jallen4 – Points well taken. The garage would face to the east and bracing of the door would be required in the event of a hurricane. I hadn’t thought about the mold, spiders etc. At present I have a 12x20 shed with overhead door and everything in it gets rusty from the dampness. On the other hand, when my house was being finished I was one step ahead of the drywall installers and putting R-12 insulation in the bathroom walls (for sound deadening) and in the garage walls. The garage ceiling has R30. No problem with rust, lizards help take care of the creepy crawlers and I spray the top of the walls with Suspend SC to kill the brown widow spiders.


Posted By: Gale Hawkins on 10/24/10 08:26am

A few rolls of Eternabond to insure against leaks is sure starting to sound cheaper. [emoticon]


Posted By: Replant on 10/24/10 08:33am

Gale Hawkins wrote:

A few rolls of Eternabond to insure against leaks is sure starting to sound cheaper. [emoticon]


I hear ya.[emoticon]


Posted By: kysurveyor on 10/24/10 10:21am

I have a quote for a 32 X 48 pole barn with 16 foot sidewalls and one 14 X 14 overhead door, with opener for $17,000. This does not include the slab.


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Posted By: Islandman on 10/24/10 04:59pm

As one responder pointed out, make sure the structure blends in well with your residence .......... nothing worse than a big warehouse looking thing next to a nice looking home. I'm talking the material used, style, location, etc. You may be able to get by with a little shorter sidewalls (like 12 ft high) and still have room for a 14 ft high door by having a gable style roof. With concrete floor, wiring, and all the stuff needed I think a price of at least $40K for the size you're considering is in the ballpark. I'd get in touch with the building officials at the city/county for advice on construction requirements and possibly what builder does a good job

* This post was edited 10/24/10 05:05pm by Islandman *


Posted By: charwan on 10/24/10 06:17pm

I just built one here in Pickens County. To put it up was $22k for the walls and roof. The roof and outside walls are metal. It is 30 X 40 ft. This did not include grading, footings or 4ft. concrete walls and foundation. This does not include electric or water because I put 400 amps into it and then ran over to the new house. This does not include a 14x14 door and a 12X10. which cost about 3K. Then there was the concrete floor and pad in front 40X32. My walls are 2x6x12 set on 4 ft. concrete walls. This gives me 16 foot ceiling which you have to have for 14ft. doors. This is not built to hurricane specs as needed if Fl. I don't think it could be built for anything under $30 K.


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Posted By: goreds2 on 10/24/10 08:04pm

Is Florida strict concerning RV ports ?

http://www.superiorportablebuildings.com/rv-covers.html


Posted By: Gale Hawkins on 10/24/10 10:20pm

Hurricanes happen a lot in FL


Posted By: Replant on 10/25/10 07:17am

goreds2 wrote:

Is Florida strict concerning RV ports ?

http://www.superiorportablebuildings.com/rv-covers.html

We have many such structures here. However, notice on their web site that the front, rear and lower body isn't protected from the sun unless you get a structure much longer than the RV and park in the middle. Even then you will need wheel covers to protect the tires. If you are working on the RV all tools and such must be removed when finished for the day.

With a garage, once the doors are closed the vehicle is protected and nobody knows if you are away on a trip or not. Home burglaries aren't that much of a problem here but they have been on the increase. Also, as one poster pointed out, being built to Miami/Dade specs it makes a good storm shelter. Yup, a couple rolls of Eternabond is the poor man's protection - from the rain at least.[emoticon]


Posted By: Replant on 10/25/10 07:22am

Gale Hawkins wrote:

Hurricanes happen a lot in FL


We have them but in the 36 years that we are living in this town I have made only one hurricane claim to our insurance company. The rest of the time they pocketed the premiums and raised the rates each year, but that's another thread.[emoticon]

Oddly enough, it seems that Myrtle Beach in N/S Carolina gets hit with hurricanes more than Florida.


Posted By: Arcamper on 10/25/10 08:16am

Built mine for $25k but did most all the work myself. 40 x 42 Fully insulated, heated, 100 amp service wired in EMT. Half bath.

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Posted By: Replant on 10/25/10 09:42am

I like it Arcamper. Is that a kit or did you go by plans? Are the timbers steel or wood? They look to be steel.


Posted By: Gale Hawkins on 10/25/10 10:47am

Replant wrote:

I like it Arcamper. Is that a kit or did you go by plans? Are the timbers steel or wood? They look to be steel.


2x for sure!


Posted By: Arcamper on 10/25/10 03:30pm

All steel, 12 x 14 door and a 10 x 12 door. Both electric operated. I had a company in Texas design it and send it to me on a truck in a thousand pieces. 3 months and a lot of work to what you see here.


Posted By: Queens Carriage on 10/25/10 04:18pm

You could build it shorter. But plan the structure and the placement so that it could be added onto very easily.Less money but potental.


Posted By: Replant on 10/25/10 04:22pm

Arcamper wrote:

All steel, 12 x 14 door and a 10 x 12 door. Both electric operated. I had a company in Texas design it and send it to me on a truck in a thousand pieces. 3 months and a lot of work to what you see here.

Thanks for the info. Very nice.


Posted By: Replant on 10/25/10 04:27pm

Queens Carriage wrote:

You could build it shorter. But plan the structure and the placement so that it could be added onto very easily.Less money but potental.

You must me a mind reader - I was thinking of the same thing.[emoticon] Bring the building as far forward as desired. It would be easier to extend the rear without messing with the doors.


Posted By: Replant on 10/25/10 04:36pm

Replant wrote:

Queens Carriage wrote:

You could build it shorter. But plan the structure and the placement so that it could be added onto very easily.Less money but potental.

You must me a mind reader - I was thinking of the same thing.[emoticon] Bring the building as far forward as desired. It would be easier to extend the rear without messing with the doors.


I remember back in the '30s during the depression they started making the cars longer and all the houses on our block added little extensions with flat roofs on the front of the garage just long enough to get the car inside but no higher than the garage doors.


Posted By: jetboat on 10/25/10 07:03pm

Some thoughts,in some countys,if you have a concrete floor,the building is taxable.Check into a pole barn,here in texas,lots have them and most have a small graves(pea size) about 6/8" thick.Also most metal pole barns have electrial,for what ever your need are.Just check you codes for and tax man for whats what!.


Posted By: Replant on 10/25/10 07:09pm

jetboat wrote:

Some thoughts,in some countys,if you have a concrete floor,the building is taxable.Check into a pole barn,here in texas,lots have them and most have a small graves(pea size) about 6/8" thick.Also most metal pole barns have electrial,for what ever your need are.Just check you codes for and tax man for whats what!.

That's worth looking into.


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