MrWizard
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Quote: I would like to use my Progressive Power management system to ensure clean power but it will not release the power because of an open ground condition.
why not use the bypass function
the EMS does not clean up power
and neither your Yamaha or Champion is likely to damage anything
generators do not produce the high transients that exist on utility power
which is the main protection of the EMS
yes it will protect from under voltage, but what is the time spec for under voltage?
will it shut down when the A/C compressor cycles on and the voltage monetarily drops
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !
....
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MeandMyLabs
Clinton, Illinois
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Mr Wizard,
My progressive Industries is not hard wired but the portable version. I purchased it that way because I was aware of the open ground situation. I do not have a bypass.
I am simply wanting to use my power management to better protect the circuit boards on my TT. When running on generator power, I am only running the generator when in camp thus a fair amount of starting and stopping. If I start the generator with the TT plugged in, I am risking a spike or other at the immediate start up. If I start the generator unconnected, then I must plug in while energized and this is considered a poor practice also. Either of these conditions should not cause a problem occasionally but when this is repeated multiple times per day, I do not feel this is the best for the circuitry.
If I can use my power management system, there will be a delay while it tests the circuit and finally releases the power after a couple minutes and should prevent the aforementioned start up conditions.
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aruba5er
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Like the pics from renoman69 I too did just like that. I use a Honda 2000i and have a Progressive Dynamics 30 amp hard wired. It always was showing open ground and the plug with jumper fixed it right up. And you can remove it instantly if you wish. DO NOT add a jumper at the campers breaker box from ground to neutral.
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MrWizard
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I see no difference in plugging into a running generator than plugging into a receptacle at home or the power pole at the campground
and since the transfer switch is where the time delay is located
the power has to be on for "x" number of seconds before the transfer switch engages
again the portable progressive is a "surge" / voltage cut out device
it is not a "Power Management system" it will not filter, it will not step up low voltage, or step down high voltage
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MeandMyLabs
Clinton, Illinois
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Quote:I see no difference in plugging into a running generator than plugging into a receptacle at home or the power pole at the campground
When I plug in at the campground or at home, I make sure the breaker is thrown first and then after plugging in my RV, I then throw the breaker to supply power to the TT. What transfer switch are you referring?
I am aware that the EMS is a monitor.
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renoman69
Edmonton Alberta
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aruba5er wrote:Like the pics from renoman69 I too did just like that. I use a Honda 2000i and have a Progressive Dynamics 30 amp hard wired. It always was showing open ground and the plug with jumper fixed it right up. And you can remove it instantly if you wish. DO NOT add a jumper at the campers breaker box from ground to neutral.
I would like to reiterate that these pics were taken and originally posted by "exrocketscientist" some months ago when this subject came up.
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MrWizard
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the transfer switch in the rv, the one that keeps shore cord (and/or built in genset) disconnected and seperated from each other
the transfer switch does not engage until shore cord is plugged into an outletor and if there is a built in genset the transfer switch has two relay switches
yes some older tt with no generator do not have a transfer switch, but the have been standard wiring install for many years
the only difference to flipping the breaker off/on
is you put any arc on the breaker contacts instead of the blades of the plug
I guarantee you the 30 amp or 50amp plug blades have more copper and more surface area and can handle the any arc better than the circuit breaker contacts
so can the contact points in the transfer switch/relay which have harden surfaces and are designed to be open and close with possible arcing
the only load that should be on at the moment power is applied (plugging in) is the power converter
the amount of load will vary but in many cases is only a few amps
if you a big battery bank ,a 50amp. cord and a 100 amp converter inverter then it might pull 16>18 amps for a few minutes, but that's not much load for 100amp service (2*50)
your generators can NOT spike your shore cord the way utility power can,
and your system is in no danger unless you have the A/C in the on position and the water heater set to electric and the fridge set to electric
and you plug into shore power
that load would trip your generator even without the progressive unit
its always a good idea to use surge protector on utility/shore power
but they are not needed on generator power
if you want to make a bonding device and use the progressive unit
go ahead it won't hurt anything
but it is not any great protection, most generators will overload and shut down or trip a breaker when forced into a heavy load "under voltage" condition
MeandMyLabs wrote:Quote:I see no difference in plugging into a running generator than plugging into a receptacle at home or the power pole at the campground
When I plug in at the campground or at home, I make sure the breaker is thrown first and then after plugging in my RV, I then throw the breaker to supply power to the TT. What transfer switch are you referring?
I am aware that the EMS is a monitor.
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MeandMyLabs
Clinton, Illinois
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When my refrigerator is on Auto it will switch automatically to electric when a source is applied. There is not delay. I was under the impression that this is not good on the fridge circuitry. I could always manually switch it to gas and then flip the switch back to auto to avoid this or just run on gas the whole time. My TT does not have a built in generator and I had never heard of a converter being called a transfer switch but I guess it is transferring power from 12v to 120vac.
I have never been concerned about clean power from my Yamaha but with the Champion, I will get a bright and slight dimming of the lights from time to time after several hours of operation. This got me thinking about the electronic circuitry and if I was causing harm. Even though the Champion is a pretty good unit for the money I am still not wanting to chance damaging my electronics.
I really appreciate the input from everyone on this topic because information is difficult to find.
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Bobbo
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Renoman69's pictures are the way to accomplish your goal. Using the bypass switch (if you had one) also circumvents a lot of the protections of the EMS.
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MrWizard
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the Fridge only uses 300+ watts for the heating element about 2.8 amps at 120vac
the fridge controls are always on 12vdc from the batteries, NO matter if the fridge is using LP or 120vac
plugging into 120vac has NO effect on the fridge controls except that the DC voltage will rise up from battery level to charger/converter level
12+ to 14v
no the converter is NOT the transfer switch
but on my TWO previous RV's an 82 pace arrow and a 89 Komfort
the transfer switch was mounted on the back side of the converter/power center and controlled the 120vac input source into the RV's
that dimming blighting of the lights, is most likely your converter cycling, (raising & lowering) its DC output voltage shifting from charge to float to charge, it should also do this with the yammy unless the batteries have NOT reached the full/near full charge state
* This post was
edited 01/30/12 12:58am by MrWizard *
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