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 > 675w Solar Installed w/Pictures

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watchthebox

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Posted: 03/06/12 10:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yeah, I don't think you're going to have to worry too much about idle draw! You're probably going to have to figure out ways to use all that power. Maybe you can sell off power to adjacent RV's [emoticon] I only have 360W solar PV's, and I don't have to run genny much.

Have you noticed how much your battery voltage drops under heavy load like the microwave. Mine drop from like 12.6 to into the 11's sometimes when running microwave or other hungry appliances. I know you're not supposed to let batteries fall below 12V (50% SOC), but is it OK to have them transciently dip into that range?


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mena661

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Posted: 03/06/12 10:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

watchthebox wrote:

I know you're not supposed to let batteries fall below 12V (50% SOC), but is it OK to have them transciently dip into that range?
That's fine. The voltage will recover afterwards.


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cruz-in

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Posted: 03/07/12 07:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks you so much for the great description on your mounting rails. That will halp me lots when I get to mounting mine in a few weeks,


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CallThisCamping?!

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Posted: 03/07/12 08:37am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I see you put your controller in a compartment. Have you noticed any heat build up in there? I had planned to do this as well and I have the same controller, but after reading the manual, I've been trying to come up with different solutions. The compartment solution would be far easier to install, and the inverter is already in there, close to the batteries. But I don't want thermal shutdowns.
Is your compartment open to the outside? If not, do you notice excessive heat from the controller heat-sync?


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time2roll

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Posted: 03/07/12 08:42am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have not seen the controller running flat out but I don't expect any issues.
Front compartment is usually in the shade on a fifth wheel.
Worst case the controller will automatically throttle back due to heat.


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675w Solar pictures back up

time2roll

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Posted: 03/07/12 08:47am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

watchthebox wrote:

Yeah, I don't think you're going to have to worry too much about idle draw! You're probably going to have to figure out ways to use all that power. Maybe you can sell off power to adjacent RV's [emoticon] I only have 360W solar PV's, and I don't have to run genny much.

Have you noticed how much your battery voltage drops under heavy load like the microwave. Mine drop from like 12.6 to into the 11's sometimes when running microwave or other hungry appliances. I know you're not supposed to let batteries fall below 12V (50% SOC), but is it OK to have them transciently dip into that range?


I wonder if people would pay $5 for a good 100% battery charge.

I don't worry about the voltage dipping under high load. I don't worry too much about the 50% rule either. I will not shut off the furnace just because the voltage is approaching 11.5v. Of course I would be looking to recharge asap.

CallThisCamping?!

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Posted: 03/08/12 09:36am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

One more thing:

Is it possible for you to draw a rough schematic of how exactly you wired everything? I'm looking at your picture of the controller and it's not clear how the switch and fuse are placed into the system because the wires disappear behind the battery box.
Or, perhaps you could just link a system design that you used.
My panels are arriving today, I'm very excited.
Thanks

time2roll

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Posted: 03/08/12 10:18am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I will start from the top...

The panels have factory MC4 connectors. The pair are connected direct with a + and - pushed together. I bought a 6' MC4 cable to connect + of the single panel to the - of the other pair to complete the series circuit.

I bought a 100' MC4 cable and cut it close to the middle to bring power down to the switch. The switch is for 2 pole 240vac service. The wire from the panels is in the corregated wire loom and enters on the right in the picture. It enters the box through a two hole strain relief. Inside the box the + & - are connected to the LINE terminals at the top.

I zip tied the MC4 connectors on the roof so there would be no power coming down until the connections were safely made in the box.

I used 6' #10 red (+) and yellow (-) THHN building wire from the load side of the switch to the controller to mark polarity. These are the wires that drop behind the battery box and reemerges into the controller. (no hidden connections) Again I covered them with the corregated split loom for protection and clean look. You could just as easy mark the wire with colored tape to indicate polarity. Actually there was plenty of wire left over when I cut the 100' piece to length as it hit the switch.

The effect is both + and - from the panels are disconnected when the switch is off.

The green wire is just a case ground direct to the trailer frame.

CallThisCamping?!

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Posted: 03/08/12 11:18am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

So, except for the fuse, the output of the controller is direct to the batteries with no disconnect switch? And the fuse is 60A, the rating of the controller?

time2roll

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Posted: 03/08/12 11:35am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Manual calls for 75 amp fuse to comply with NEC. (rating + 25%) So it was 70 or 80 and I prefer it to be a bit tight. Either is fine with #4 wire.

You are right there is no switch to the battery. Manual calls for a disconnect and I will remove the fuse when needed. The high voltage was a bigger concern.

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