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Topic: Wireless remote for lift/lower 5th wheel

Posted By: 83trekker on 03/07/12 02:44pm

OK so i bought a wireless remote to raise and lower my 5th wheel so i dont have to get in and out of the truck, and also cause its cool too!!

See the wiring diagram here, it is meant for run a winch wirelessly so i am think its gotta be the same for the motor that runs my 5th wheel.

Unfortunletly my trailers in storage and i cant look at it to see if it has a solenoid like the winch does.

Its a 1998 5th wheel do you think it will be possible to wire this into my motor. I know this email is pretty vauge but just throwing it out there.

[image]


Posted By: bpounds on 03/07/12 02:49pm

Depends on the fiver I would guess. Mine does not have a solenoid. The switch feeds directly to the motor, with an inline fuse. Which I've blown a couple of times.


2006 F250 Diesel
2011 Keystone Cougar 278RKSWE Fiver



Posted By: 83trekker on 03/07/12 02:50pm

You know whats weird the connector i have which is in the picture above, thr round one on the bottom right of it.

It shows 4 wires yet i have 5 wires comming out of it, also it saids white wire but i dont have a white wire, i have a yellow wire? Also have a blue wire comming out of it, but they dont even show that? Hmmm made in Chine with poor instructions for sure.

Shows the brown wire above going to a negative, yet on my wire harnes the brown is tied into the red wire for pistive, i think i am in trouble now.


Posted By: Ed9824v on 03/07/12 03:06pm

bpounds wrote:

Depends on the fiver I would guess. Mine does not have a solenoid. The switch feeds directly to the motor, with an inline fuse. Which I've blown a couple of times.


I believe that solenoid is part of the winch switching polarity function.


Ed So.Calif
1950 Ford F1 street rod
1968 Baha Bug with 2.2 ecotec motor 170 hp, kingcoil
2000 National Sea Breeze 5th wheel trailer
1998.5 Dodge 2500 4x4 Cummins,4.10 gears,turbo,trans,injectors,oil cooler,lockers,edge EZ, 35" BFG's, air dog lift pump etc.


Posted By: the bear II on 03/07/12 03:57pm

Mine is a 1995 and no solenoid. Directly wired with a circuit breaker to trip in case of short. Plus the motor has an internal circuit breaker to prevent over heating.

I'm no electrician but I'm guessing you would just wire as if the solenoid wasn't there.

By the way, I have two motors one for the left and one for the right. I'm sure you've checked and only have one motor with a crossbar to drive the other leg.


Posted By: 83trekker on 03/07/12 09:16pm

Trailer is in storage so i cant check anything right now.

So say it was just switch off the motor, could i wire this in where it would have pos and neg and wire the power outs to the switch, would that work at all?


Posted By: mbrule on 03/08/12 06:19am

ExRocketScientist wrote:

83trekker wrote:

Trailer is in storage so i cant check anything right now.

So say it was just switch off the motor, could i wire this in where it would have pos and neg and wire the power outs to the switch, would that work at all?

If you need a solenoid for this to work, why not install one into the current system. You can then use the existing switch to activate the solenoid, and add your remote system as a second way to activate the solenoid.


X2

If you do not have a solenoid, you will likely need one. The unit might work without one if it capable of handling the current that the motor draws.


Posted By: 83trekker on 03/08/12 02:34pm

I am having trouble finding a solenoid with 7 post like the one in my diagarm, or could the both postives go on one post, both negatvies on one post. and a postive go to the middle of the toglle switch and ground out each side of the switch?


Posted By: Mile High on 03/08/12 02:43pm

Curious what kind of remote you got? It can make a difference how you wire it.

Mine had a solenoid so I just went straight to the same spades the switch connects to with an up relay and a down relay. Be careful that if your remote is a "momentary up - momentary down" on the same button that there is a delay before it switches. Otherwise if you walk out of range or let up slightly on the button it will instantly reverse - and it's a little hard on the gear and motor.

I did buy another solenoid and added it to my slides so I could remote control them as well, but I don't remember where I got it. Somewhere on-line.


2013 Winnebago Itasca Meridian 42E
2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sahara Towed



Posted By: 83trekker on 03/08/12 02:47pm

Mile High wrote:

Curious what kind of remote you got? It can make a difference how you wire it.

Mine had a solenoid so I just went straight to the same spades the switch connects to with an up relay and a down relay. Be careful that if your remote is a "momentary up - momentary down" on the same button that there is a delay before it switches. Otherwise if you walk out of range or let up slightly on the button it will instantly reverse - and it's a little hard on the gear and motor.

I did buy another solenoid and added it to my slides so I could remote control them as well, but I don't remember where I got it. Somewhere on-line.


This is a 2 button remote. Its for a Tracker winch bought from Princess auto here in Canada.


Posted By: ExRocketScientist on 03/08/12 06:05am

83trekker wrote:

Trailer is in storage so i cant check anything right now.

So say it was just switch off the motor, could i wire this in where it would have pos and neg and wire the power outs to the switch, would that work at all?

If you need a solenoid for this to work, why not install one into the current system. You can then use the existing switch to activate the solenoid, and add your remote system as a second way to activate the solenoid.


ERS


Posted By: ExRocketScientist on 03/08/12 04:25pm

83trekker wrote:

I am having trouble finding a solenoid with 7 post like the one in my diagarm, or could the both postives go on one post, both negatvies on one post. and a postive go to the middle of the toglle switch and ground out each side of the switch?

Looked at your diagram. That is a solenoid made for reversing a DC motor. You need all 7 terminals wired as shown. It is made to work with a single pole double throw switch. Your remote then just hooks into the various terminals on the solenoid.

So who has a trailer that came with a solenoid? Once we find somebody with one, we can get the information off of it and track one down.


Posted By: bpounds on 03/08/12 04:52pm

Wouldn't it be easier to just get the product designed for this application.

Landing Gear Remote Control

and cheaper yet,
Same thing from Adventurerv

* This post was edited 03/08/12 05:04pm by bpounds *


Posted By: bstark on 03/08/12 05:47pm

The solenoid is required to control and direct the very high amperage required to feed through those 6 guage wires.

Any RV jack motors I've looked at had 12 guage at the largest so I'd be surprised if you'd even need a solenoid for any of them.

I kinda think the multi-function rocker switches used on most trailers are capable of the amperage load without a solenoid.


Today is just the tomorrow you worried about yesterday!


Posted By: 83trekker on 03/08/12 09:33pm

bpounds wrote:

Wouldn't it be easier to just get the product designed for this application.

Landing Gear Remote Control

and cheaper yet,
Same thing from Adventurerv


Mine was 50 bucks on sale, those above are way to expensive. Be alright if i had slides to extend out.


Posted By: Mile High on 03/09/12 10:23am

If you need the solenoid - just google up "reversing solenoid" and a batch will show up. Here is what you would be looking for and there is a wiring diagram. Your two button remote should work.

reversing solenoid


Posted By: 83trekker on 03/09/12 11:06am

bstark wrote:

The solenoid is required to control and direct the very high amperage required to feed through those 6 guage wires.

Any RV jack motors I've looked at had 12 guage at the largest so I'd be surprised if you'd even need a solenoid for any of them.

I kinda think the multi-function rocker switches used on most trailers are capable of the amperage load without a solenoid.


This is what i am thinking too, do i really need solenoid if my motor doesnt have one? i know for sure its not wired with 6 guage , maybe 12 gauge at most.


Posted By: Mile High on 03/09/12 11:59am

83trekker wrote:

bstark wrote:

The solenoid is required to control and direct the very high amperage required to feed through those 6 guage wires.

Any RV jack motors I've looked at had 12 guage at the largest so I'd be surprised if you'd even need a solenoid for any of them.

I kinda think the multi-function rocker switches used on most trailers are capable of the amperage load without a solenoid.


This is what i am thinking too, do i really need solenoid if my motor doesnt have one? i know for sure its not wired with 6 guage , maybe 12 gauge at most.
Actually I had it backwards - my slides had the solenoid, but the landing gear did not. The landing gear went straight through the DPDT switch. I added the solenoid because my remote control relays were not designed to handle the 30A the landing gear motor was fused at.


Posted By: 83trekker on 03/09/12 12:27pm

Mile High wrote:

83trekker wrote:

bstark wrote:

The solenoid is required to control and direct the very high amperage required to feed through those 6 guage wires.

Any RV jack motors I've looked at had 12 guage at the largest so I'd be surprised if you'd even need a solenoid for any of them.

I kinda think the multi-function rocker switches used on most trailers are capable of the amperage load without a solenoid.


This is what i am thinking too, do i really need solenoid if my motor doesnt have one? i know for sure its not wired with 6 guage , maybe 12 gauge at most.
Actually I had it backwards - my slides had the solenoid, but the landing gear did not. The landing gear went straight through the DPDT switch. I added the solenoid because my remote control relays were not designed to handle the 30A the landing gear motor was fused at.


So maybe i will be alright then with out it? cant wait to get my trailer in.

For the toggle switch for our landing gears, is the switch usually when you press it to eaither side to raise or lower competing a ground our a postive?


Posted By: Mile High on 03/09/12 01:45pm

I'm scratching back about 5 years when I did it, but I think it was all switched on the positive side. I remember the generator start threw me off because it actually switched ground.


Posted By: ExRocketScientist on 03/10/12 05:08am

83trekker wrote:

bstark wrote:

The solenoid is required to control and direct the very high amperage required to feed through those 6 guage wires.

Any RV jack motors I've looked at had 12 guage at the largest so I'd be surprised if you'd even need a solenoid for any of them.

I kinda think the multi-function rocker switches used on most trailers are capable of the amperage load without a solenoid.


This is what i am thinking too, do i really need solenoid if my motor doesnt have one? i know for sure its not wired with 6 guage , maybe 12 gauge at most.

It all depends on whether or not the remote you are trying to use will sink the current used by the landing gear motor(s).


Posted By: professor95 on 03/12/12 06:55pm

As noted by several other contributors the winch solenoid is a polarity reversing switch. It is designed to handle up to 70 amps of current.

The landing jack motor(s) in your fifth wheel is also a DC motor that is controlled by a polarity reversing switch. Typically these switches are rated at 30 amps and are double pole-double throw.

The current drawn by your electric jack motor(s) is approximately 11 amps maximum. There is an internal thermal trip that will open if current exceeds this level for more than a few seconds.

When you install the winch remote system to control your landing jacks I would suggest wiring everything as shown in your posted schematic with the jack motor in place of the winch motor - no need for 6 gauge wires. The wires from the winch solenoid simply parallel or tap into the existing two wires to the jack motor. #14 or #12 AWG copper wire will be OK but include an inline 15 amp fuse from the solenoid output to the jack motor.

The only danger in this arrangement is the possibility of blowing a fuse if one should depress the switch on the RV at the same time the remote switch is used.

This is a popular and easy to accomplish project - no "extra" solenoid is needed. You can easily adjust the pin height from the seat of your truck without going back and forth.

Happy Camping Trails!


Professor Randy T. Agee & Nancy Agee. Also Oscar, the totally ruined Dachshund.
2009 Cedar Creek 5th Wheel - 2004 Volvo VNL670 class 8 MotorHome conversion as toter.
Turbocharged, 12L, 465 HP and 1,800 ft. Lbs. of torque.



Posted By: 83trekker on 06/26/12 09:50pm

professor95 wrote:

As noted by several other contributors the winch solenoid is a polarity reversing switch. It is designed to handle up to 70 amps of current.

The landing jack motor(s) in your fifth wheel is also a DC motor that is controlled by a polarity reversing switch. Typically these switches are rated at 30 amps and are double pole-double throw.

The current drawn by your electric jack motor(s) is approximately 11 amps maximum. There is an internal thermal trip that will open if current exceeds this level for more than a few seconds.

When you install the winch remote system to control your landing jacks I would suggest wiring everything as shown in your posted schematic with the jack motor in place of the winch motor - no need for 6 gauge wires. The wires from the winch solenoid simply parallel or tap into the existing two wires to the jack motor. #14 or #12 AWG copper wire will be OK but include an inline 15 amp fuse from the solenoid output to the jack motor.

The only danger in this arrangement is the possibility of blowing a fuse if one should depress the switch on the RV at the same time the remote switch is used.

This is a popular and easy to accomplish project - no "extra" solenoid is needed. You can easily adjust the pin height from the seat of your truck without going back and forth.

Happy Camping Trails!



OK so i am finally getting to this 3 months later!!

So here is what i come up with

From the remote system


Yellow wire -
RedWire +

Winch wire out(Landing gear up) on the remote Blue wire
Winch wire in (Landing gear down) on the remote Black wire

Looking at my motor for the landing gear

There is a 12-14 gauage black and red wire comming off the motor.
Pigtailed onto those 2 wires is a 10-8 gauge black/red wire, i cant see the switch but these wire come into the battery. So i am not sure how it connects to the switch on the 5th wheel.


Giveing this can anybody tell me the best way to hook this up? Or should i pull the switch on the 5th wheel to see how its wired up?

Thanks all.


Posted By: Mile High on 06/27/12 09:48am

The switch is a double pole double throw DPDT (6 terminal) momentary 0n-off-on. It's wired a little wacky but probably similar to your winch cable.

The common terminals on your switch are the motor wires (red and black) - one to each side. Attached to one set of the momentary terminals are positive and negative from the battery, and then they come back off those terminals - cross - and connect to the other set of momentary terminals with opposite polarity so they create an "X" across the back of the switch.

When you push one way on the momentary switch, the red is energized positive and black negative. When you release and push the other way on the switch, the red is energized negative and the black positive.

You'll have to trace out your winch cable switch and splice into what you have so that either switch will work.


Posted By: 83trekker on 06/27/12 10:03am

Mile High wrote:

The switch is a double pole double throw DPDT (6 terminal) momentary 0n-off-on. It's wired a little wacky but probably similar to your winch cable.

The common terminals on your switch are the motor wires (red and black) - one to each side. Attached to one set of the momentary terminals are positive and negative from the battery, and then they come back off those terminals - cross - and connect to the other set of momentary terminals with opposite polarity so they create an "X" across the back of the switch.

When you push one way on the momentary switch, the red is energized positive and black negative. When you release and push the other way on the switch, the red is energized negative and the black positive.

You'll have to trace out your winch cable switch and splice into what you have so that either switch will work.



Well my remote i found the wires this is what they do and the colours, just not sure exactly where to hook them up.

To power the remote system;
Yellow wire -
RedWire +

Output from the system when the remote wires are pushed.
Winch wire out(Landing gear up) on the remote Blue wire
Winch wire in (Landing gear down) on the remote Black wire


Posted By: 83trekker on 06/28/12 12:16pm

So if i hook the black wire form my remote to the blakc on the motor, and the blue wire from the remote to the red on the motor, should that move it? But if i use the switch will it send power back into my remote?

Im stuck on where to attached my blue and black wires from the remote???

Help!


Posted By: Mile High on 06/28/12 01:22pm

Can you get access to the back of the switch on the remote to see how many terminals there are and what color wires are attached to each?

Essentially the remote is going to need to be wired exactly like the existing switch so that one doesn't affect the other when you use it.


Posted By: lawaco12 on 06/28/12 03:27pm

sounds like a lot work when you have to get out drop exts on landing gears and pull release arm


Posted By: bpounds on 06/28/12 03:45pm

lawaco12 wrote:

sounds like a lot work when you have to get out drop exts on landing gears and pull release arm


That was my thought too. Considering my fiver came with a remote control standard, which works perfectly, and I rarely ever use it. But if OP wants it, fine by me.


Posted By: Mile High on 06/28/12 07:59pm

I like the wireless remote because I can raise the pin from the truck as I back in to hook up.


Posted By: 83trekker on 06/28/12 08:28pm

Mile High wrote:

I like the wireless remote because I can raise the pin from the truck as I back in to hook up.


This is the main point of it.


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