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Open Roads Forum  >  Truck Campers

 > RE:Stove Vent (Inside Control) Mod/change motor to 2 speed

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AnEv942

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Posted: 04/24/12 03:05pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Well, I did the vent door control mod, actually a couple of weeks ago. I also changed vent motor to 2 speed.
Im adding as new thread as this rambles on for days

PART ONE: Add interior control for vent doors;

Problem is I don't really know how to share it. None of the pics I took really show mod well, and difficult to explain clearly.

Our vent is alwasy banging with slightest breeze so we keep it locked. A pain, its 8' off the ground. Last outing using the awning pull rod to unlock broke one of the plastic locks -and hit the center support breaking it. Needing to replace the outer vent housing decided to try the inside door control/lock mod. Did discover when replacing the vent cover the hood itself was also cracked. Idea & discussion started in another thread with ideas from Wnjj and KKELLER14Ks got me motivated, that and I need to replace vent cover.

[image]

As you can see, I thought I was going to do Wnjjs latch-kinda trick-positive closing but when removing outside cover saw our vent has the small thru the wall outlet tube. Interanl sides of box are bit wider than hole in camper. Just wasnt going to work easily as the latches would need to be about 3" deep. Briefly though of using long center screws to move the arms in-but nixed it. Went back to KKELLER14Ks simpler design which I was originally going to copy. However the mention of the manual cable in other thread (auto carb/choke cable, used on some older heater valves)stuck in the back of head. Decided I could use one instead of a wire as I had an old choke cable.

[image]

I removed the vent, replacement outside cover and took to shop. Just easier than hanging upside down trying to figure it out. In looking at cable going thru front of housing, hooked to door to push/pull realized wasn't going to be easy to reinstall, plus Vent and outside cover are on the bench-how to get lengths. Could make 2 piece clamped together, 1 link from door other from cable handle, would make length adjustable. But not liking the direct pull on door-Id probably break unless something else stopped travel. I also decided I didn't want the cable handle hanging out inside when vent doors manually closed (normal position).

Somewhere in this convoluted thought process I figured using Wnjjs axial rotation was what I wanted, if I ran a rod from side to side with arms I could get that, instead of the latch handles use the push/pull of KKELLER14Ks mod to rotate. This would also allow to reverse the direction of door. So I merged the 2 ideas using a choke cable.

[image]

I cut up a coat hanger bent up to see if this would work. Drilled 2 holes in sides of case insert the coat hanger, push/pull handle the rod rotates, the lil arms swing. Cool. Guestimateing drilled hole in door (inner door removed until this is done).

[image]

Loosely reinstalled the vent and cover on camper. made a short link rod from door to coat hanger, had to leave cable stops loose or it would bind so a lot of slop. But pull handle in- rod slides thru door--whowoo-means door is free. Turn on fan door blows open, turn off fan door swings shut. Push handle in, rod secures door. Looked at approximate location to add slot in inner door.

Took it all back to shop. Rebent a new coat hanger, rotated the loop for door so its 90° to get rid of slop, need the other loop straight for adjustment of length, changed distance and length of loops. Shortens amount of handle movement in relation to door.

[image]

New & improved. I had thought this would take several tries to get working- but second try had it dialed in. Cable arm is inn line with existing holes in cabinet walls and face hole. (I discovered while at ventline site looking at housing and different outlet sizes discovered stock 2 speed uses same motor but with resistor (more at end). So I removed the previous installed rheostat (that didn't really work) and used that hole for cable handle on face.
Used several cable stops I had to attach cable/link rods and acts as stops.

Drilled small hole in inner door and wallowed to make a slot bout 1/2" in length. This will let inner door be independent of rods and swing free. Mine is very thin aluminum. I removed inner door to not deal with while planning this-worst case I couldn't reinstall- but it works. Mine the inner door has 2 small ears that set on plastic rivets, gently prying inward one one ear while even more gently pushing in center of door it will clear the rivet and door comes out.

Back to the camper, reinstalled vent housing, puttied and reinstall outside vent cover. Reattaches all the rods. With cable attached to face guide cable in housing -reconnect all the wires attached face to cabinet, connect cable to pivot rod, reinstall the fan blade one last time. 1st time all 3 pieces actually installed. Well the link rod is draggin on inner door,binding-as the inner door slot is too close to bottom I need hole in outer door higher. I've already puttied outside-wired constrols, cant get drill in there but I'm not pulling down again. Removed fan, linkages and inner door. I heated an other coat hanger with bic melted hole thru outer door. Perfect. Buttoned it all up.

[image]
Works! handle pushed in-door locked closed

[image]
Handle pulled out, doors stay closed until fan turned on, swing shut when fan off!

Like I said hard to show. Now that its done it will be really nice in use. But Id be hard pressed to say a worthwhile project. I'm retired, Margaret went back to work for a while so I've lots of time to kill. Was fun. In figuring this out I came up with a simpler way to do this-simple enough that mfg. could make a retro kit or stamp in to the housing design. Though I'm sure if they gave a second thought could come up with an even better design.

Here's a drawing may or may not clarify and show how it works also shows some options I was thinking about..
[image]

PART TWO Changing single speed fan motor to 2 speed.

Mentioned earlier, while I was Ventline site looking at the different housings (why my opening is so small) discovered that same motor is use on the 2 speed vents, just use a resister and different switch is used. So I'm doing.

I had tried different resister switches I had without success, tried a muffin fan but got too low on CFM , tried an old printer motor that sort of worked but was still low on cfm, though either were great on amp draw 0.1/0.3. I hadn't tried (or thought) to use a big ol honking resister (shown installed on last underside vent pic above).
Robbed resistors and bracket from an old RC charger, installed on fan mount arm (for air to keep cool). It also had identical switch as used on vent so robbed it. You can see on 1st pic above to left of new cable handle.

Reinstalled stock motor, using recycled resistors and switches I have. The original on/off switch sends power to new second switch. New switch forwards power directly to motor or thru added resisters. Power thru resisters (I added a smaller on in line) is cut from 1.5 to 0.9 amps, makes noise tolerable while maintaining huge air flow. I didn't record their values and I'm not taking fan off-(I think one was a 10 watt the other a 20). Radio shack. I did come across folks using a 3 speed switch to control bath fan. This would probably work well for vent motor. $7 from Fleet Farm, an old school heater control switch. (Now I stumble on it)-would be an easy mod to convert your single to quite it down, though inefficient does lesson amp draw some.

If /when I come across at least 150 cfm muffin fan Ill replace for lower power consumption.

Both mods were zero cost-just time.
IF your interested I have a few more pics and ramblings on my home page-really not much more info-cept the drawings maybe.
http://ourelkhorn.itgo.com/vent.htm

The thread that got me thinking and links to Wnjjs & KKELLERK14s mods for the ideas.
Mark


01 Ford F250 4x4 DRW Diesel, 01 Elkhorn 9U
Our camper projects page


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