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Open Roads Forum  >  Dinghy Towing

 > ReadyBrute braking problems--Follow-up

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tropical36

Southwest Florida_USA

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Posted: 07/20/12 10:16am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Dutch_12078 wrote:

willald wrote:

Dutch_12078 wrote:

I installed a turnbuckle on my brake tether cable, and it worked great for making small adjustments as the cable stretched a bit during the first few hundred miles. Since then, I haven't had to touch it. If you do add a turnbuckle, get a wing nut to use as a jam nut, making it a no tools needed adjustment.


Ahhh, I wondered about that, if a jam nut or two wouldnt be needed to prevent it from inadvertently getting twisted and out of adjustment.

Dutch, might you have more specifics of the turnbuckle you used, and the jam nuts? Should I use something like this
1/4 by 7 1/2 turnbuckle or a 3/16 by 5 1/2 turnbuckle like this one?

I'm assuming you put a jam nut on both sides of the turnbuckle?

We're going to Lowe's tonight for some other things, I think I'm going to pick up a turnbuckle and some wing nuts while we're there...

Will

Sorry for the late reply, somehow I missed your post.

I used a 3/16" x 6" SS turnbuckle similar to the one you linked to, except that it has welded eyes. The Lowes one looks like it ought to work OK though. I only used a wing jam nut on one side, since I couldn't find a left hand threaded nut at the time. The jam nut just serves to keep the turnbuckle from vibrating and loosening up, and the one wing nut seems to do the job.

I'm using a 5/16 turnbuckle, but with double nuts and had to buy a little bag of LH nuts for $2.25 at FASTENALL. We've only made one trip so far and are still experimenting. Was somewhat confused with the adjustment and making turns, as I saw both tightening and loosening with turning. One of these posts pretty much explained what was going on with that, so thanks to the author. Our initial testing was done by riding in the bed of my F-150, while DW pulled the Jeep around the neighborhood.


"We are often so caught up in our destination that we forget to appreciate the journey."

07 Revolution LE 40E_Spartan MM_06 400HP C9 CAT_Allison 3000.

Dinghy_2010 Jeep Wrangler JKU ISLANDER.

1998 36ft. National Tropi-Cal Chevy Model 6350 (Sold)


stuckinthesand

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Posted: 07/23/12 06:40am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I once had the problem (described previously) of the shackle getting flipped over onto the brake arm lever but it only happens on hookup for me until the tow bar gets extended then there’s not enough slack for it to get messed up. Once after sitting in a RV park in Biloxi (read hot) for a week upon hooking up the brake cable it was quite tight so I adjusted it but I could tell the brakes were not being activated so I stopped and sure enough there was too much slack in the cable, I’m assuming the plastic coating on the cable shrunk while sitting in the sun but once hooked up it stretched right out. Anyway my reason for posting is that I use an inferred thermometer, the ones like mechanics use although I use it for cooking, and also for checking the brake caliper temperature during tow operations to detect dragging/overheating brakes. I tow a wrangler and have had 0 brake issues so far.

willald

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Posted: 07/23/12 09:04am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Well, just got back from our first trip, using the setup with a turnbuckle. Great improvement, I like it. [emoticon]

I found that I only needed one wingnut (RH) on one side of the turnbuckle, to lock it in place. The other side, I just tightened it as far as it'd go, and tightened it real tight on that end so it wouldnt turn on that end. The other end, where I have the wingnut acting as a jam nut, is the end we use for adjusting.

This worked great, made it very easy to fine tune and adjust the Readybrake to just where I wanted it. Much easier to make adjustments this way.

This was also first trip where I had the LED indicator on the MH dashboard working, triggering off of the towed vehicle's brake pedal (NOT the Readybrake actuator). That was very nice to have as well, gives a great idea of what the brakes are really doing.

To allow the cable to 'turn' when adjusting, I purchased THIS 'trigger snap' link to go between the turnbuckle and the cable on the car. Part of the reason for this link was that it allowed connecting/disconnnecting without having to pull on the cable so much, like the carabiner link did. This made hitchup and unhitching even easier.

Unfortunately, the trigger snap link broke after less than 1,000 miles. The 'trigger' piece that you pull back and its spring broke off. Fortunately, I caught it before cable came off and started dragging, and was able to use plastic ties as a temporary fix to hold it on until we got home (last 100 miles or so).

I really like the trigger snap link, am tempted to just buy a couple more and have a spare just in case. However, the fact the first one broke so soon, makes me wonder if that link just isn't designed to be used going down the road, exposed to all the bumping, vibration, etc. that its exposed to here.

Thoughts? Does that trigger snap link I provided in the URL, look just too weak to handle being used this way?


Will and Cheryl
2021 Newmar Baystar 3014 on F53 (7.3 V8) Chassis
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tropical36

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Posted: 07/23/12 09:25am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Quote:


Thoughts? Does that trigger snap link I provided in the URL, look just too weak to handle being used this way?

I probably wouldn't use that particular one again and would check the specs. on any others. I do have a heavy duty swivel available and almost installed it as well, but decided against it, with the theory that less connection hardware than necessary might be better. Do like my turnbuckle, though.

BradF

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Posted: 07/29/12 12:45pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When hooked up, my cable has a deflection from level about 2" to 2.5". Meaning that it goes up about 1" and down about an inch or so. Is that enough or am I too tight? Just installed my Ready Brake and on the maiden voyage towing my JK wrangler the brakes were hot after about 15 miles. The indicator light would go on and off as normal. When I stopped I found that the cable was too tight to remove (had to start the Jeep and depress the pedal, which allowed the cable some extra slack. All else seemed to work good. But the brakes were hot and I could feel them dragging as I towed the Jeep. Any help is appreciated.

Dutch_12078

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Posted: 07/29/12 01:23pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I run my ReadyBrake with about 2" of downward deflection (4" total), with no brake dragging. Make sure you adjust the cable with toad pulling all of the slack out of the tow bar and it's connecting points.


Dutch
2001 GBM Landau 34' Class A
F53 chassis, Triton V10, TST TPMS
Bigfoot Automatic Leveling System
2011 Toyota RAV4 4WD/Remco pump
ReadyBrute Elite tow bar/Blue Ox baseplate


BradF

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Posted: 07/29/12 02:02pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks Dutch I am going to try that today. I reread the instructions and they specify 2" up OR down.

Dutch_12078

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Posted: 07/29/12 02:52pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I think the reality is that there's enough variation among tow bar, base plate, and ReadyBrake setups that the deflection figure given in the instructions should be qualified as a starting point, with adjustments from there as needed.

BradF

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Posted: 07/29/12 05:34pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Agreed. I readjusted mine and this time took into account "play" in the tow bar, hitch, etc. It now works great. I am going to try a turnbuckle as well. I think it will stretch out over time and I do not want to have to guess at the correct adjustment by moving the cable clamps.

Dutch_12078

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Posted: 07/29/12 09:34pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

That sounds like a plan to me, Brad. Once you get everything dialed in, I think you'll be pleased with the performance of the ReadyBrake.

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