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Open Roads Forum  >  Truck Campers

 > F350 Camper battery Isolator

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Artum Snowbird

Campbell River, B.C., Canada

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Posted: 11/15/12 11:05am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a 2000 F350 Lariat and am considering running a separate positive and negative from the isolator to the camper battery. Presently I only have the 7 pin at the back of the truck, and I have to have a 14 foot 7 conductor from there to the front of the camper where it plugs in.

Wondering whether the existing isolator is fused, and if so what amperage?

Also where amongst all that stuff under the hood I'm going to find in around that 7.3 diesel?

Or maybe I have to install another isolator relay?

thanks, Mike


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AnEv942

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Posted: 11/15/12 11:48am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

As to location
[image]

But since your considering running new wires you probably would be better off running a seperate fuesed isolator or constant duty solinoid and run larger wires.


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KKELLER14K

BEAVERTON OREGON

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Posted: 11/15/12 12:40pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Run the LARGER wires! You current setup can't be doing you any favors. You most likely will have a power block where all of your HOT leads come to, just look for the large red wires. (pic) You want to run BIG stuff..10 gage or bigger. Run an aftermarket isolator large enough to handle the load and be sure and properly fuse it.(pic) Here are some pics of mine. I need bigger wires myself!...another day. This was my first go and you live and learn. The small fused wire from the isolator is the hot wire from the key switch on the ignition. Hope this helps! Kev
[image]
[image]
[image]

cewillis

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Posted: 11/15/12 02:20pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

KKELLER14K wrote:

Run the LARGER wires! You current setup can't be doing you any favors.

Yeah - do this if you want a good charge. But I use 2 gauge welding wire.


Cal


Artum Snowbird

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Posted: 11/15/12 05:03pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for the replies but I am still a bit confused. I asked if anyone knows where the isolation relay is. I know there is one somewhere, and it's likely original. I know the relay operates when the engine is running.

AnEv942...are you saying the relay is in one of those boxes?

KKeller14K I think that is pics of your set up, and yes, that is the type of isolator I am presuming I might have too, but I don't have a dodge.

Yes, I am familiar with the need for good size wires. Presently in the 14 foot cord it is No 10 for battery power and negative in the seven wire cord.

I'd like to think I can replace 30 amphours in an hour of driving. Has anyone done any quantitative checks to see how much they can get from a running engine in an hour with different No. wires?

btggraphix

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Posted: 11/15/12 05:47pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Personally I would do like KKeller shows, and just do a completely new/seperate solenoid on the firewall and run the bigger wires straight back to your camper hookup. AnEv is saying the same thing I think. All you have to find is that ignition hot lead to engage the solenoid and you don't have to figure out anything else on the existing truck until wherever you plug in to your camper. I like the seperation of truck and state...err...camper.

But yeah, I think AnEV is saying is that the backup light and the trailer "charge" relays are in that box. So if you were trying to replace the existing charge line to a bigger wire it would be from that #39 relay and I suppose the fuse is right there for you to inspect to answer the questions you had.


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AnEv942

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Posted: 11/15/12 11:17pm Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

btggraphix wrote:

Personally I would do like KKeller shows, and just do a completely new/seperate solenoid on the firewall and run the bigger wires straight back to your camper hookup. AnEv is saying the same thing I think. All you have to find is that ignition hot lead to engage the solenoid and you don't have to figure out anything else on the existing truck until wherever you plug in to your camper. I like the seperation of truck and state...err...camper.

But yeah, I think AnEV is saying is that the backup light and the trailer "charge" relays are in that box. So if you were trying to replace the existing charge line to a bigger wire it would be from that #39 relay and I suppose the fuse is right there for you to inspect to answer the questions you had.

Yes pic is of your Ford relay box location cause I thought you were asking/unsure where it was. #39 is your factory relay for the charge line to trailer plug. It is fused, it's in the dist.box (see your manual). Off hand I dont remember which one or size of fuse. just fyi

Note the constant duty solenoid KKeller shows is what you might consider adding-you do not have one now. Simular to what I added, its ign controlled. You have the relay (lil black box in pic) shown that controls charge line.
I trigger the solinoid from ign. on hot lead inside cab because I added a manual switch, I suppose you could use the out put from factory relay to trigger solenoid? or somthing else in engine bay, Make it simple (but I like to be able to overide so switched).
I tied to battery for power, 10ga fused at 30amp, with thermal breaker after solenoid. Some use alternator, power lug shown would also work. Its a fairly simple install, allowing direct feed with as large of wire as you want to camper (bigger IS better). I run a seperate plug for auxillary charge line between camper & truck. Left the factory line intact. Somewhere i have pics but is simular to what KKeller shows. Simple ignition controlled constant duty solenoid.

Ive done no quanitive testing.

* This post was edited 11/15/12 11:28pm by AnEv942 *

KKELLER14K

BEAVERTON OREGON

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Posted: 11/16/12 12:01am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Everyone has it right...bypass the factory stuff. It is a simple install for most mechanically inclined. You then know exactly what and where it goes. I also am a fan of a separate plug altogether for a charge wire. I have it already wired and ready for that upgrade....just have to finish it. Really.. skip the bigger power wire from the 7 pin plug altogether if you can. You want to go even bigger than what that stock 7 pin plug can do. They make plugs that have the BIGGER diameter of that size of wire you need. It does not matter what truck you have.... wire in this example and your good to go...just do your home work.

Artum Snowbird

Campbell River, B.C., Canada

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Posted: 11/16/12 02:33am Link  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OK, I think I'm getting it now. The factory solenoid "coil" wires can be paralleded to a constant duty one like Keller has. Hi amperage lines should be run from the battery in truck, positive lead switched by the constant duty coil.

Anyone have any idea what the constant duty relay is rated for?

Now I guess, the size of the wire.. I understand that the idea is to minimimze line loss. The constant duty relay has a current rating, and that should also be the fuse rating, but the wiring can be as high as seems reasonable.

The idea of this is to present the highest voltage and possible reverse current flow to charge the dual 6 volt camper batteries ASAP from the truck when running the truck motor.

The idea behind this is to allow us to do short hops between campgrounds and get the charge back in quickly rather than run the honda for a hour. I realize that the larger wires and more current flowing back do have to be produced by the truck engine, it is a draw and that is over and above how much needs to be produced just to make the truck move. Again, whether that is cheaper than running the Honda 2K for a hour is a valid point.

Points to pondor..

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