Pic of smashed safety chain
![[image]](http://i55.servimg.com/u/f55/15/53/33/36/2014-012.jpg)
Pic of hitch. Safety chain is hitting the wing area at the end of the hitch where you see a bit of rust next the progress name.
![[image]](http://i55.servimg.com/u/f55/15/53/33/36/2014-013.jpg)
Moderator edit to re-size pictures to forum limit of 640px maximum width.
* This post was edited 02/21/14 10:00am by an administrator/moderator *
Afterwards.......a wire brush and can of spray paint and attack those rusted areas
Is it time for your medication or mine?
2007 DODGE 3500 QC SRW 5.9L CTD In-Bed 'quiet gen'
2007 HitchHiker II 32.5 UKTG 2000W Xantex Inverter
US NAVY------USS Decatur DDG31
Denny, Rosie and Josie the Beagle
2016 Allegro 36 LA
2016 Mazda 3
The chains are not to short if anything they may be a tad long.
Dick_B
2003 SunnyBrook 27FKS
2011 3/4 T Chevrolet Suburban
Equal-i-zer Hitch
One wife, two electric bikes (both Currie Tech Path+ models)
upontheridge wrote:
Rewelding to a different spot was my first thought but when I called RV dealer about it they were hesitant to reweld. Trying to decide if I should take it to them for reweld or just find a welder that will do the job. Reading about safety chains everyone says the location of the holder is the best location vs on ibeam under the tongue. With the weight distributing hitch the safety chains will probably never see action unless the hitch pin would break.
The chains are not to short if anything they may be a tad long.
Rewelding to a different spot was my first thought but when I called RV dealer about it they were hesitant to reweld. Trying to decide if I should take it to them for reweld or just find a welder that will do the job. Reading about safety chains everyone says the location of the holder is the best location vs on ibeam under the tongue. With the weight distributing hitch the safety chains will probably never see action unless the hitch pin would break.
The chains are not to short if anything they may be a tad long.
You don't go to a RV Dealer for a weld job.
Go to a welder or to a trailer shop.
For the record, the current chains have plenty of length, and I wouldn't say I've 'jack-knifed' my trailer any more than normal.
I'm relocating my chains to the inside of the A-frame (new chains and hooks while I'm at it). I'm using bolt-on 12,000-lb D-rings as attachment points. There are also weld-on varieties if you're so inclined. After the new chains are on, the old attachment point will get cut off.
Have you also had the issue where a link will get hung under the hitch head when unhitching and pick up the back of the truck? Wore my arm out cranking the tongue jack a few times before I figured that one out!
2006 Coachmen 30TBS
2004 F-350 SRW PSD
CEddy wrote:
I have a very similar problem with my setup- same Equal-i-zer hitch, same stupid V-shaped chain attach point under the coupler. My chain hasn't been crushed as bad as yours, though.
For the record, the current chains have plenty of length, and I wouldn't say I've 'jack-knifed' my trailer any more than normal.
I'm relocating my chains to the inside of the A-frame (new chains and hooks while I'm at it). I'm using bolt-on 12,000-lb D-rings as attachment points. There are also weld-on varieties if you're so inclined. After the new chains are on, the old attachment point will get cut off.
Have you also had the issue where a link will get hung under the hitch head when unhitching and pick up the back of the truck? Wore my arm out cranking the tongue jack a few times before I figured that one out!
I have a very similar problem with my setup- same Equal-i-zer hitch, same stupid V-shaped chain attach point under the coupler. My chain hasn't been crushed as bad as yours, though.
For the record, the current chains have plenty of length, and I wouldn't say I've 'jack-knifed' my trailer any more than normal.
I'm relocating my chains to the inside of the A-frame (new chains and hooks while I'm at it). I'm using bolt-on 12,000-lb D-rings as attachment points. There are also weld-on varieties if you're so inclined. After the new chains are on, the old attachment point will get cut off.
Have you also had the issue where a link will get hung under the hitch head when unhitching and pick up the back of the truck? Wore my arm out cranking the tongue jack a few times before I figured that one out!
I am trying to figure out why KZ the trailer manufacturer would put the safety chain attachment point in a place that would interfere with hitch. Planning to take to a welding shop to have them weld something under the bottom of the aframe on each side to attach safety chains. Trailer is only a year old so hoping to use the same chains and hooks minus a link. Have not ever had a problem with chains getting stuck in hitch head. Thought about a bolt on arrangement but figured a weld would be stronger. Haven't seen any bolt on work from the factory and not crazy about drilling the frame.