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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > Battery Cable Crimp Question

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mrekim

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Posted: 03/28/14 10:43am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The ring connectors that connect to my battery are the type where you can see the cable strands on the ring side of the connector. If I wiggle the cable, the strands on the ring side move.

My understanding of a good crimp is that the the cable and crimp ring get cold welded together. I would think that a good crimp would not transfer movement through that cold weld, so a slight wiggle on the cable side should not transfer to the ring side.

Is this something I need to pursue further - or am I looking at this wrong?

camperpaul

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Posted: 03/28/14 10:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The wire terminals were not properly crimped.

They can usually be re-crimped with the correct tool.


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Trackrig

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Posted: 03/28/14 10:55am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Agreed - they were not crimped correctly. There should be no movement on the ring side. When you get them recrimped, they should check the new end of the cable for any corrosion that has creaped up form the old end. And then use a piece of red or black heat shrink over the cable end and the crimped part of the connector.

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time2roll

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Posted: 03/28/14 11:11am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Time for a new ring terminal. Keep wiggling and that old one should slip off.
For corrosion resistance get a closed end terminal and use heat shrink.
What size wire?

[image]

ljr wrote:

I use One of these.


+1 for this. I find it better to go up one die size. For super pro look you need to crimp and rotate/recrimp a few times. Although for #6 down I might just hit it hard twice with the easier pinch crimper.

* This post was last edited 03/28/14 01:53pm by an administrator/moderator *   View edit history


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mrekim

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Posted: 03/28/14 11:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

smkettner wrote:

Time for a new ring terminal. Keep wiggling and that old one should slip off.
For corrosion resistance get a closed end terminal and use heat shrink.
What size wire?


6 Gauge wire. I suspect I'm going to have to replace all 4 ends. I haven't looked at the back of the converter yet.

wa8yxm

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Posted: 03/28/14 11:48am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

One suggestion: for one of those cables at least you may be able to find a standard cable at the auto parts store.. These starter cables are normally 4GA, and factory crimped rather well

I do not have the ability to crimp cable larger than 10ga but I can tell you this, A good proper crimp.. Be it 10ga, 12ga, 18 ga or 0000ga One big cable) the wires wont wiggle.. Not at all

But it is not a "Cold weld" (That is a chemical glue) just a crimp

A welding supply house may be able to re-crimp em, that's where I got my last cable crimped... or a Solar Power Store. (The one it repalced, damage to the wire, NOT a bad crimp).


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mlts22

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Posted: 03/28/14 12:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Unless done right, crimped connectors will get loose and corrode. Closed ended terminals and heat shrink tubing are a must. I'd look at a hydraulic crimping tool as well because it makes a much better, longer lasting crimp joint than the inexpensive ones.

MEXICOWANDERER

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Posted: 03/28/14 12:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The most widely accepted "good crimp" is made with a hexagon shape die, under tons of pressure. A battery lug with a doubled crimp is OEM standard for many industries including voltage transmission lines. I have seen far and away too many failures in "Single Spike" crimps to suit me. The single indentation stresses the metal in the dent, and caused fractures and failures which admitted air and failed the integrity of the termination.

ljr

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Posted: 03/28/14 12:41pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I use One of these.


Larry

mlts22

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Posted: 03/28/14 12:51pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The single indentation also allows air, possibly water in on the edges. The hexagon crimps (as per ljr's link) provide a watertight seal all the way around.

Oh, don't let "marine grade" fool you. Some crappy single spike crimp tools are sold as "marine grade". As Mexicowanderer pointed out, you want the multi-sided crimp under 5-10 tons of pressure, preferably a double crimp, and then heat shrink tubing on the connection as another barrier to water/oxygen intrusion.

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