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Open Roads Forum  >  Truck Campers

 > Question/problem with furnace in '06 Actic Fox 860

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ticki2

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Posted: 04/03/14 06:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Do you have other 12v in the camper , lights etc. ?

Did you check the thermostat ? Remove 2 wires from thermostat and hold together . Anything ?

Not all converters supply 12v without batteries .


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07IDCLASSIC

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Posted: 04/03/14 10:35am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have lights and everything. Stereo everything else works that I've tried anyways. I have the batteries in the garage on a battery tender is why they aren't in the camper. I haven't taken the thermostat a part yet.

AnEv942

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Posted: 04/03/14 11:29am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

07IDCLASSIC wrote:

...Have power to the black wire running to a gray box but I'm betting that is for the 120 plug in not too far away....

[image]...

The grey box w/black cord and romex SHOULD be 110v circut-not part of heater or any other 12v circut. Couldnt help but note the use of cover typicaly used on exterior raintight box, odd, thats an expensive cover for a junction box? Common on an A/F?

Dont know what a 'ticker' is but there should be 12v at the (correction) red wire connection that goes INTO heater, (blue wires are t-stat). If not then I would verify 12v out at fuse panel. I would start out assuming simplest-no power getting to heater.

Second would be thermostat or wiring to it. I would as suggested remove wires from t stat and tie together. If fan doesnt come on imediatedly it will as soon as (if) a bad connection/lack of power somewhere else is found. IE the mentioned plug if you have one, between slide and camper, could be obvious source of fault.

If 12v out at panle, I would pull wire loose at panle & check continuity between that end of the red wire and end of wire at heater. Again mentioned was a plug.

If power at red wire to heater, and wires Disconnected from t-stat and tied together, last thing I'd check is jumping t-stat wires at heater to verify no break in leads to t-stat. If theres power and t-stat wires are connected then its into the heater itself.

* This post was last edited 04/03/14 12:01pm by AnEv942 *   View edit history


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Camper8251

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Posted: 04/09/14 10:29pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have an AF also, and had the same problem turned out to be the thermostat. The stock thermostats are pretty crappy and failed. Check that closely you may be chasing your tail.


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Posted: 04/10/14 08:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Did you manage to find the fuse for the furnace.


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bobndot

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Posted: 04/10/14 10:15pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

does your thermostat have an on/off switch on it ?

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/24801535/print/true.cfm

07IDCLASSIC

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Posted: 04/12/14 02:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Found the fuse for the furnace and it was fine. Found the plug for the slide and it was plugged in. Reinstalled batteries and still nothing. Which wire exactly do I cross to see if it's the thermostat and do you guys just do a jumper or exactly how do you do that? I haven't taken the thermostat off the wall yet though either. Thanks again for the help and that link has quite a bit of good info. Only on/off switch I can find is the thermostat.

07IDCLASSIC

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Posted: 04/21/14 07:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

[image]
So it seems to me I have 12 volts coming up to the red wire which I'm guessing to be power is the white wire also power and the black ground? Do I need to cut the white wire off and jump it to the red to see if it's the thermostat or is there an easier way? Definitely no other on/off switch on the thermostat that I can see. Sorry about the bad pic new phone cover sucks.

AnEv942

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Posted: 04/22/14 01:33pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

In theory tying the 2 wires at thermostat together, red and one of the other wires together, generally white, bypassing tstat, if t-stat dead, would cause heater to come on. However unfamiliar with 3rd wire, or why, pilot light-AC signal?

My hesitation is Ive read on some t-stats jumping while connected can blow them, I assumed on electronic tstats but yours & 3rd wire? Without seeing it-tracing out path unsure. I wouldnt want to tell you to do something that might cause magic smoke.

No reason to and I wouldn't cut wires at t-stat- there screwed on? but unsure which is the return wire. As there are only 2 terminals, R & W, I assume the black & white wires are tied together at the W or bottom screw. At heater tstat wires are the 2 blue ones, you have blue++++ to red +pos to tstat. The other blue wire has a yellow wire? hard to trace in picture, Im not going to say the white wire at tstat is same yellow wire connected to blue wire at heater. Confused why a 3rd wire? Its a 2 wire thermostat. Thermostat simply makes a connection between the 2 wire when temp reaches setting. testing should take all of 5 minuets
_____________________________________________
I am assuming your test light is polarity correct and red wire is hot.

TEST
Meter would be better but...Since you have a test light, place its clip on another ground source, not on tstat.
-Retest you still show power at red wire- small screw top left marked R terminal,
-then turn on tstat-test for power at other small bottom left W terminal (black/white wires).

If power shows up at W terminal tstat is ok. Problem in heater or wiring to it.
If power does NOT show up at W terminal continue, problem likly the tstat. To verify tstat is issue

-Loosen the small screw at the top left terminal marked R. Remove the red wire.
-Loosen the small screw at the bottom left terminal marked W and remove the wire(s).
Hold the ends of all wires together, It may take up to a minute for the heater to come on. If heater comes on the t-stat is at fault.
Simple inexpensive replacement fix. Done.

TEST2
If heater still does not come on with wires at tstat manually tied together (or tstat tests ok). As you have power going to tstat, another simple test before assuming fault in heater or other issue is to test return wire from tstat to heater isn't broken or disconnected somewhere.

-disconnect the wires from each other at tstat if still connected
-Cut the crimped on caps off the blue wires at heater. (They can be reassembled with simple twist on wire nuts later). Test which blue wire is feed/hot to tstat, twist back together (I assume blue/red is hot)
One blue wire will always be hot, the other only when tstat closes.

-Test the other blue wire connection (I assume blue/yellow wire.) I should not be hot. Test the yellow (why is it yellow?), should be no power, reconnect wires togther at tstat (or turn on tstst if ok), power should show at yellow wire. If it does NOT show power and wires at tstat tied together you have a break in return wire.

To verify
TEST3
Disconnet red/yellow wires from blue wires. Hold the 2 blue wires together-heater should start within a minute. If it does not come on problem is heater.
If it does come on then its the tstat return wire. Though you might retest tstat.

Depending on what test revel-If tstat is ok and/or tying wires together you never see power at the other yellow/blue wire AND touching the 2 blue wires together fires heater I would simply run a long piece of wire connected to the W terminal of tstat and connect other end to other blue wire in lieu of yellow wire. If it works means either finding break in return or rerouting a new return wire.

2manydogs

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Posted: 04/22/14 02:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I know you have thoroughly checked and are checking everything every which way. Just a little more info on the scenario I had going back to the slide umbilical was though it looked like it was plugged in it was infact partially pulled out enough so that the power supply was intermittent and the finally totally not working, this started with the heater then the fridge 12 volt went. Got in there and put that plug In real good, in fact it was working out at an angle hence the progressive failures and the visual appearance that all was good. FWIW I replaced the stock T stat with a digital, programmable one from Home Depot or Lowes, it was 20 bucks or so, a Honywell I think. This ended the short cycling problem that was really irritating.

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