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Open Roads Forum  >  Truck Campers

 > 1968 Travel Queen Resto Mod - 4. Bathroom Remodel

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ticki2

NH

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Posted: 04/28/15 12:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Had to smile when I saw that homemade basin nut , that's something I would do .

Just a tip . Mobile home plumbing fittings are usually the same as camper fittings . Some hardware stores carry them. Here is something that might work even better for your tail piece , I think if you unscrew the vent the threads will be the same as your drain fitting so you wind up with a tail piece and nut all in one .

http://mobilehomepartsstore.com/Merchant........ROD&Product_Code=135950&Category_Code=MP

Question , does the stopper for the drain screw in or push in ?


'68 Avion C-11
'02 GMC DRW D/A flatbed

Dave Pete

Wyoming

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Posted: 04/29/15 06:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for the tip ticki2, I'll keep a look out. Yesterday, after seeing your post, I was back over to the store to return some parts and get some new ones. I looked then for the device you described, or something like it. Also checked at the RV parts store on the way home and they no longer carry it, but can get it. Specifically I wasn't looking for something like the anti-siphon to customize, but rather a tailpiece with the basin nut as part of it. Will keep looking, as I think something like that would be a great replacement for what I have now.

Regarding your question, the stopper is neither screw in or push in. Maybe pressed, but I didn't want to risk damaging the o-ring trying to determine for sure. There is a concave groove all around the top of the drain piece. The stopper is a convex shaped disc that fits into the groove. The o-ring goes around the convex piece. So the stopper can twist and move about in any direction except out. Not sure how it was put in there.

Here is a close-up.

[image]

I tried your other suggestions and for the most part things worked very well. The one aspect that didn't was the Fernco Ell onto the tank stub out. The stub out is a great idea, as it makes it much easier to repair leaks without manipulating the tank, but the swing of the Ell came out too far and the door wouldn't fit back on.

The next thing I tried was a stub out including elbow, using a reverse installed street elbow, it spun in without disturbing the tank. I had to remove the door catch and re-install it, but otherwise, a slick job. This photo shows the end result, a much better final design than anything else I've tried.

[image]

I'm now going to move the discussion over to "Waste Water" to finish up this subject and today's post.


Lil' Queeny - 1968 Travel Queen
Big SAL-2006 Dodge Ram 2500
Tow Mater-1964 Road Runner 15' Canned Ham
Fairweather June-1957 Leisure Home 20'
No Name-2013 Komfort 2410RK 29'

Happy Trails to You.

ticki2

NH

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Joined: 07/09/2008

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Posted: 04/29/15 11:13am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Dave Pete wrote:



The next thing I tried was a stub out including elbow, using a reverse installed street elbow, it spun in without disturbing the tank. I had to remove the door catch and re-install it, but otherwise, a slick job. This photo shows the end result, a much better final design than anything else I've tried.

[image]

I'm now going to move the discussion over to "Waste Water" to finish up this subject and today's post.



That looks about as clean and functional as you can get , nice job .

I've never seen a stopper like that , interesting .

Dave Pete

Wyoming

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Posted: 06/23/16 05:37am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

{4/22/17 Edit - Not allowed, not meant, no disrespect to the forum intended.}

Post to keep thread alive.

* This post was edited 04/22/17 06:02am by Dave Pete *

Reddog1

El Dorado, CA

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Posted: 06/23/16 09:00am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Bumping (Post to keep thread alive) is not allowed. A Thread will continue based on peoples interest. Could you imagine the Forum if everyone bumped their thread?

Wayne
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Dave Pete

Wyoming

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Posted: 06/23/16 01:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

{4/22/17 Edit - Not allowed, not meant, no disrespect to the forum intended.}

Yeah. I understand Wayne. I just figured since upon other's advice I broke this thing into chapters instead of one rebuild thread I wanted continuity, as opposed to part two bathroom etc. The thing is taking longer than I ever expected but I'd be up to hear about others interest. I could just as easily stop posting and just do my own thing. With all due respect. I know you have a tough job.

* This post was edited 04/22/17 06:02am by Dave Pete *

Reddog1

El Dorado, CA

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Posted: 06/23/16 09:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Dave Pete, you need not "bump" any thread. Simply post something showing progress, of of interest on the thread. I am sure you are excited with your project, as you should be. Your posts/thread is read and appreciated by many. Personally, I think you did the right thing in breaking the project into several parts. As you stated, you could stop posting and just do your own thing. But, I bet part of your efforts is to show your skills to others and get suggestions.

I encourage you to start as many threads as you think is required showing your progress. Expect interest on a given project to drop off. Start a thread on the next project.

Wayne
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Dave Pete

Wyoming

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Posted: 06/24/16 10:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

{4/22/17 Edit - Not allowed, not meant, no disrespect to the forum intended.}

Wayne, I had missed your above reply until just now.

I appreciate the instructions and the encouragement. And you are right, much of my effort is to show off a little bit. Which of us don't try that when we can? [emoticon]

Here's where I was coming from. Those threads I posted to (being called bumps) were the several - out of my total 14 category parts - that are not yet completed. Some are complete so I didn't need to keep them alive.

I had been told some time ago that if a thread went more than 12 months without a post, it would become archived and could no longer be posted to. As you know, many of my categories were started, kind of as a place holder for one of the rebuild topics or subjects, and are waiting for the major rebuild portions to finish so as to get back into these last "systems" categories.

The other morning when I made my bumping mistake, I was in a hurry to complete morning computer work and get outside to do yard, garden and green house work before it got too hot, so I didn't think much about my actions. I was only thinking, "man, it's been a long time since I've posted, and some of these categories might lock me out, I better look at them and see if I have closed it, and if not, I better make a post to keep it active". I knew they would all line up in the "most recent threads" list, but I figured people would understand what I was doing, and due to how many views these things tend to get, I kind of expected what I did would be appreciated.

As you know, instead of appreciation, I kind of got dressed down by a couple of you and I thought, "What am I putting up with this for? Why do I need to play politics with a friggin' hobby forum?"

But you know me. Like you, and many others here, we can get a little emotional. I've seen many contributors break and bend the rules. To be frank, I think most of the time when that happens, we don't intend to, we just kind of forget the fine points of the rules and we are just being ourselves in a community that we have developed. That's why we might talk wildflowers, or 4x4s or new diesel trucks or collectible Corvairs in here instead of heading over to the Campfire forum. Who do we really know over there? Right?

Anyway. I apologize for my errors, and I'll try to do better. But again, I'll get my summer stuff done and then maybe get back to this stuff in the cold months. Cheers all and have a great summer!

* This post was edited 04/22/17 06:03am by Dave Pete *

Dave Pete

Wyoming

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Posted: 04/22/17 06:32am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When we first began our resto-mod, we were intending brass use throughout. Most everywhere.

The original cabinet hardware was brass with a white paint background. When we re-did the hardware backgrounds in some darker brown tones, the brass started taking on an "antique brass" look. The 12 volt interior lights had brass bases. But there was little additional brass.

We were looking for brass fixtures, etc. in the bathroom. It's harder to find these days, due to style cycles, but lately we've noticed bright brass making a bit of a return. You watch, soon it will be all brass again instead of brushed nickel.

Back ago, we found a cool shower drain plug that uses a swivel stopper with o-ring to seal. Not only might that keep grey water tank odors and sloshes out of the bathroom floor, we found a brass one! It was the last work posted in this category.

But when we decided to keep the bathroom window screen frame aluminum (silver) instead of painting it cream color like in the rest of the camper, and found the faucet we wanted in bright chrome (no bright brass available), we decided to return to the home center where we bought the shower floor drain parts and find a bright chrome version.

These boxes of "specialty" drains were on clearance for about $5 and had/has been now for more than three years. Still there! I found a chrome one.

You see, we've found the brass, especially in BRIGHT brass, to be more of a detraction than a complimentary addition to Lil' Queeny's finishes, at least in some places or ways. The entry door knob is another example (tomorrow's post).

So here is my drain change post.

When I removed the brass part, the plumber's putty I had used was all dried out. This baby was probably going to leak.

[image]

[image]

This time, instead of plumber's putty, I used the included foam washer on the top surface, the other included (from the brass) foam washer on the bottom, the thick rubber washer behind that, and finally the nut. It pulled in nice and tight and made for a clean install.

I had to play with it for awhile, because I was concerned about damaging the o-ring, but finally realized, the only way to do it was to pull the stopper out of the ring, so I could properly used the "drain wrench tool". Once past the "damage" fear, it pops in and out right fine with little fear of o-ring damage.

[image]

Here's a before and after.

[image]

[image]

This will look much better I think.

[image]

Because here's the sneak peak of the faucet.

[image]

The swinging spout is very useful in a small space. We have an oil rubbed bronze version in our guest bath.

Down below I was able to get the hand type plastic nut and tail-piece back in with no leaks, removing the need for a wrench type tool on the road. The metal trap piece was still needed, due to the ill-fit of the plastic piece styled end in the rubber trap.

[image]

It passed the leak check.

[image]

With that done, I now have my head into bathroom plans. But with summer fast approaching, you can't never tell where my head will be going. If I can keep enough of it on Lil' Queeny, we'll see continued progress.

* This post was last edited 08/24/17 05:36am by Dave Pete *   View edit history

Dave Pete

Wyoming

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Posted: 10/24/17 06:34am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Today: Bathroom door cut to new size.

As you can see from the last post - April of 2017 - I had just gotten my head into Bathroom plans, and then pretty immediately, my head went elsewhere.

"Summer's here, and the time is right, for dancing in the streets"! Well - it was actually more like yard work, house stuff, and lest we forget, we bought Tow-Mater and began spending quality time with him, before he even HAD that name.

But now, the little death is nigh, and every windy day is looked upon as favorable. It puts us inside, where the magic happens. [emoticon]

And since we don't do FaceBook, and some other sites where people post "for sales", DSIL has began to send us potentials. That is to say he's an enabler for our vintage camper addiction and we keep going out to look at more old units. Simple Distractions - I tell you, Distractions!

Okay, back to the story of Lil' Queeny and the Bathroom door.

For just about her entire time living with us, Lil' Queeny has had her door off. We thought it was time to cover up that part of her.

Maybe you remember? When we first got this camper, it had a catalytic heater - no cover on it - so the heater was poisoned, meaning dust had been allowed to ruin it and make it unsafe for use. If you use this sort of heater, please learn about that. We just looked at an old unit yesterday, being sold by a young family, and it had an uncovered catalytic heater. We educated them.

[image]

That's it, sticking out at the bottom.

And when the PO installed that heater, it interfered with the bathroom door. What to do? Cut the door, duh.

Ouch!

This is it, upside down.

[image]

[image]

Now we didn't need her door to be full height, because we had changed the door opening for the shower pan and grey water tank, right?

[image]

But, we still needed full width, and there wasn't enough door length to work with that cut-out portion.

However, we had the other Travel Queen parts camper bathroom door. A little wider, and a little taller than Queeny's. But again, maybe you remember, I couldn't figure out how to get the handle off! It was a tricky little devil.

[image]

[image]

I removed screws (way back ago), and yet it still would not release! So I put it all away and went on to something else. Recently I got it back out and put my efforts back into it. But that was a few weeks ago, so now I can't remember exactly what I did. Age related memory loss. Who are you again?

But what I do recall is that I started fiddling with it again, and next thing I knew, it simply pulled apart in my hands. I think I started tapping on it or something. As it turned out, the problem was simply enough grunge on the square shaft that it was stuck on "installed".

[image]

[image]

With the door knob off, sans damage to the door, we had our spare part!

[image]

These doors are built with 1/8" wood paneling, and 1/2" plywood internals, placed in a frame style. That is to say the plywood pieces are four, and glued in a square frame onto one panel, then the other panel is glued to that. So the middle of the door is hollow, and the outer edge has enough distance to allow the plastic door trim sections to cap the paneling edges.

Like this.

[image]

But when I cut the door to size (length and width), it does this sort of number right?

[image]

Note the near and the right edges. Plywood right up to the edges. Non-starter for the plastic edge caps.

So I did dangerous stuff, with the table saw. Do NOT do this at home. Please allow me and Super Dave Osborne to do the dare-devil things.

I set the table saw fence at just a hair over 1/8", and the blade depth to about 1". Then one pass at a time, in 1/16" increments, I ran the edge along the blade (first the long way, then the tall way) until I had this sort of thing.

[image]

After a little fine tuning and a bit-o-wood chisel work, I had this.

[image]

That finished up three sides, and the fourth just needed a section of plywood glued in, like this.

[image]

[image]

So now the parts camper door was the same width as the original, but shorter.

[image]

Now we'll let that dry overnight and continue work tomorrow.

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