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Open Roads Forum  >  Class C Motorhomes  >  Class C

 > How do I stay under RAWR in Dynamax REV 24RB?

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Mark in FL

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Posted: 02/18/15 09:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My Ram Promaster based Class C has a door sticker that says not to exceed 9350 lb GVWR. Dynamax also placed a sticker with Dry Weight 8024 lb, Cargo Capacity 1108 lb. The dealer filled gas, propane, and water when I bought it. I went to DOT scale Front Axle 3540 lb + Rear Axle 5220 lb = 8760 lb which is less than 9350 lb GVWR. My problem is my wet weight with no cargo is only 60 lb less than 5291 lb RAWR. How can I possibly carry 5 - 150 lb passengers unless they all sit on the front axle? They may be able to sit in the 4 belted seats in the back if I dump all water, propane, and gas before driving?

tpi

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Posted: 02/18/15 10:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Is there any of your other camping supplies, food, gear etc. loaded into the motorhome? Are you dealing with just passengers or passengers+supplies you need for your vacations?





tatest

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Posted: 02/19/15 02:24am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Quite likely, you won't. You'll be running somewhat heavy on the rear axle. Try to keep loads forward of the rear axle, so the weight is at least shared by both axles and doesn't serve to lift the front end. With the seating up front, a good part of the load will divide between the two axles, but the rear is going to be overloaded as soon as the first two people get in the vehicle.

This is an engineering problem that's been common to C's, and to a lesser extent even larger class A motorhomes, for at least the past twenty years as consumers have chosen to buy the largest, best equipped RVs over the smaller designs that better fit chassis capacity.

Mine has the additional problem that all of the waste tankage, and most of the storage space inside and outside, is behind the rear axle, making it more tempting to load the few hundred pounds of cargo allowed in the wrong place.


Tom Test
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Ductape Dave

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Posted: 02/19/15 06:24am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I looked at the pro master chassis based C's and was turned off by the towing and carrying capacity. They are basically for just light duty uses. They only tow a maximum of 2000lb. and I don't like the fact that you would carry your whole family and your house on single rear wheels, to nerve racking for me. There are no dealers in my state that want to stock the pro master MH's due to its limitations. Maybe that will change for the future.

carringb

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Posted: 02/19/15 07:11am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What Dave said. The Promaster just doesn't have the capacity, plain and simple.


2000 Ford E450 V10 VAN! 450,000+ miles
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j-d

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Posted: 02/19/15 12:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

From your scale weights, it seems you have a few hundred pounds remaining capacity on the front axle. I don't know if this chassis was "stretched" (cut in two and reassembled with an extender section) but if so they should have stretched a little more than they did. You wouldn't have any more capacity in total, but it would be a little more useful.
Many Many Class C's have this issue as was mentioned above. In the bigger ones, based on Ford and Chevy cutaway van chassis, I blame the floor plan. Designers want a certain "room" at the rear, usually a walk around queen bed arrangement. But they don't want wheel wells in the bedroom, so they design it as all overhang. If the coach isn't 29-32-feet, the wheelbase isn't long enough to shift enough weight to the front. Rear axle is near, at, or over its rating, and the front isn't heavy enough for directional stability (tracking) on the road. Your chassis is FWD, so tracking probably won't be an issue.


If God's Your Co-Pilot Move Over, jd
2003 Jayco Escapade 31A on 2002 Ford E450 V10 4R100 218" WB

Mark in FL

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Posted: 02/19/15 01:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The main reason I posted is because I searched the forums for info on cargo weight before buying because the manufacturers don't post that info because buyers wouldn't understand it. I would have understood front/rear dry weight and it would have saved me a $62000 mistake and potential lawsuit.

I bought the REV to use as a van with a kitchen sink and bath. We all love it. It suits our needs better than anything else I looked at. If we camp it will be 2 and lightweight cargo except maybe a scooter on rear hitch which would make rear axle over weight. If we dry camp 40gal+40gal holding tanks 1/2 full adds 350 lb to rear axle. If we do a family outing to the beach 6 passengers and light beach gear overloads rear axle.

Mark in FL

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Posted: 02/19/15 02:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

j-d wrote:

From your scale weights, it seems you have a few hundred pounds remaining capacity on the front axle. I don't know if this chassis was "stretched" (cut in two and reassembled with an extender section) but if so they should have stretched a little more than they did. You wouldn't have any more capacity in total, but it would be a little more useful.
Many Many Class C's have this issue as was mentioned above. In the bigger ones, based on Ford and Chevy cutaway van chassis, I blame the floor plan. Designers want a certain "room" at the rear, usually a walk around queen bed arrangement. But they don't want wheel wells in the bedroom, so they design it as all overhang. If the coach isn't 29-32-feet, the wheelbase isn't long enough to shift enough weight to the front. Rear axle is near, at, or over its rating, and the front isn't heavy enough for directional stability (tracking) on the road. Your chassis is FWD, so tracking probably won't be an issue.


They added 4' behind the Promaster frame.

http://www.rambodybuilder.com/2014/van/docs/vf/far.pdf
PROMASTER CHASSIS STRUCTURAL MODIFICATIONS MODIFYING REAR OVERHANG
Modifying the rear overhang causes a significant change in the weight distribution on the axles. Final stage manufacturers must take this into account, checking that the GVW and GAWRS are not exceeded.

((At least not exceeded as dry weight when leaving factory. "No es mi problema - es su problema."))

j-d

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Posted: 02/19/15 02:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Take a look at This Picture. I can't show it because sharing is restricted, but you can pull it up. Perfectly illustrates my contention about floor plan vs. wheelbase. Problems seem to arise when the "house" (not counting cab-over portion) looks like it's balanced on the rear axle. I went to the Dynamax site and REV has that balanced look.
I looked at that RAM .pdf and it seems the wheelbase may not be extended. Only way the RV builder could go to get what the design called for was with overhang. I haven't verified Sprinter, but my belief is that Mercedes doesn't allow stretching of Wheelbase OR Overhang.
Many RV builders violate simple weight and balance requirements, including outfits that should know better like Winnebago. Now apparently the respected Dynamax. In today's world it seems form trumps function.

* This post was edited 02/19/15 02:52pm by j-d *

tpi

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Posted: 02/19/15 02:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Mark in FL wrote:

The main reason I posted is because I searched the forums for info on cargo weight before buying because the manufacturers don't post that info because buyers wouldn't understand it. I would have understood front/rear dry weight and it would have saved me a $62000 mistake and potential lawsuit.

I bought the REV to use as a van with a kitchen sink and bath. We all love it. It suits our needs better than anything else I looked at. If we camp it will be 2 and lightweight cargo except maybe a scooter on rear hitch which would make rear axle over weight. If we dry camp 40gal+40gal holding tanks 1/2 full adds 350 lb to rear axle. If we do a family outing to the beach 6 passengers and light beach gear overloads rear axle.


I don't endorse overloading or anything. But there are varying degrees of offense here. Pack the family in for a short trip to the beach in Florida-probably at lower speeds-is a pretty benign trip for an RV. Make up your margins with lower speeds, attentive driving, and fastidious tire care. Be especially pro active in keeping the tires fresh..not let them get old and rotten. Be proactive about any scheduled maintenance of the rear wheel bearings (if any). Travel with as limited water aboard as possible.

I'd think twice about scooter on rear hitch. I don't even do that with lots of extra capacity. Maybe best to pull the scooter on a small trailer. You do have some extra capacity there.

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