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Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers  >  General Q&A

 > How to remove oxidation before waxing?

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My Roadtrek

Tucson, AZ.

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Posted: 07/09/15 10:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Protect All will remove the oxidation, and leave it shinny. You do need to do some rubbing depending on the amount of oxidation.

"Now, you can bring back the once lustrous shine to your RV, car, truck, boat and more with Protect All FIBERGLASS Oxidation Remover & Color Restorer. One-step application removes oxidation, wax build-up, stains, surface scratches and hard water spots to restore color and luster to dull, oxidized fiberglass, gel-coat, enamel and polyurethane painted aluminum. Cleans, polishes and seals all in one easy step."

Vulcan Rider

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Posted: 07/10/15 06:00am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

RSD559 wrote:

With our old fiberglass trailer, the problem wasn't oxidation, but it was that the gelcoat layer had lost it's gloss. That was one of the reasons we got rid of it. The decals were peeling and the gelcoat was almost crumbly.


You have just perfectly described what oxidation IS with that kind of finish. A good bit of it is caused by the sun (UV) damage.

gmw photos

midwest

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Posted: 07/10/15 06:26am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I will admit that I am normally a Meguier's user for the cars, trucks and motorcycles in my garage. However, to be honest, I really don't want to put that much time and effort into the trailer to make it look nice.
Over the years, I have found that of the many car "cleaner/waxes", Turtle wax is one of the more aggressive cleaners. I used it with my rotary ( not a DA, but a true rotary ) polisher on the trailer, and it brought the front cap back to a nice shine. As others have said, I agree it's mostly the UV exposure that attacks these surfaces. Keeping it waxed is important for best looks.

EDIT: my opinion is that you simply cannot get these nearly as nice looking by "hand" or with a "DA". A rotary is needed to cut through the dull finish.

RinconVTR

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Posted: 07/10/15 07:49pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

How many RV'ers does it take to change a light bulb?

Man you guys make life difficult!

Just buy your favorite brand RV/Marine product like this;

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-M4965-Mar........9149&sr=8-1&keywords=meguires+rv+wax+kit

AND TO ELIMINATE ANY HIGH EFFORT AND SAVE TIME...BUY ONE OF THESE;

http://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-841475-10........=1436579268&sr=8-6&keywords=10%22+buffer

You'll have your camper done in no time, and the buffer can be used o all your cars and trucks as well. These 8-12" orbitals WILL NOT burn your paint, no matter hard you try.

gmw photos

midwest

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Posted: 07/10/15 08:56pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

RinconVTR wrote:

How many RV'ers does it take to change a light bulb?

Man you guys make life difficult!

Just buy your favorite brand RV/Marine product like this;

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-M4965-Mar........9149&sr=8-1&keywords=meguires+rv+wax+kit

AND TO ELIMINATE ANY HIGH EFFORT AND SAVE TIME...BUY ONE OF THESE;

http://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-841475-10........=1436579268&sr=8-6&keywords=10%22+buffer

You'll have your camper done in no time, and the buffer can be used o all your cars and trucks as well. These 8-12" orbitals WILL NOT burn your paint, no matter hard you try.


Not trying to pick an argument here, but my opinion of these random orbitals is they are only "slightly better" than hand polishing. And yes, I have one.

As you point out, they will not burn your paint. Which is both a blessing....and a curse. The reason they won't burn your paint is because "they are not doing much".

I do still use mine sometimes for final buffing on clear coats of the cars and trucks. I also let the beginners use it when they are learning how to use power to buff wax off. The clear coats on factory paint on cars is very thin indeed. The gel coat on these campers is a lot thicker than clear coat.

Your point is valid though that using a rotary buffer is an acquired skill, and if a person is stupid with it, you "can" screw up the finish.

Vulcan Rider

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Posted: 07/11/15 07:00am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

RinconVTR wrote:


Just buy your favorite brand RV/Marine product like this;


I can't speak for anyone else but in my case I don't HAVE a favorite brand......because I haven't "polished" any kind of a vehicle myself for.....oh, about 30 years.

One needs the most help when you know NOTHING.

gmw photos

midwest

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Posted: 07/11/15 08:06am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Vulcan Rider wrote:

RinconVTR wrote:


Just buy your favorite brand RV/Marine product like this;


I can't speak for anyone else but in my case I don't HAVE a favorite brand......because I haven't "polished" any kind of a vehicle myself for.....oh, about 30 years.

One needs the most help when you know NOTHING.


Picking "favorite brand" of wax is about like picking a favorite brand of oil, or Ford vs Chevy. Between my son and I, over the years, we've tried many of the various brands of waxes. We've settled on Meguiers, but honestly, from what I've seen it's "the effort" you put into it more than what brand.

As an experiment one day this past winter, I had grand daughters late model Ford in the garage, and I tried four different Meguiers products on the car, and in the end, I pretty much could not tell the difference.
Yes .... I'm a little bit obsessive about car care here !

RinconVTR

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Posted: 07/11/15 10:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

gmw photos wrote:

RinconVTR wrote:

How many RV'ers does it take to change a light bulb?

Man you guys make life difficult!

Just buy your favorite brand RV/Marine product like this;

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-M4965-Mar........9149&sr=8-1&keywords=meguires+rv+wax+kit

AND TO ELIMINATE ANY HIGH EFFORT AND SAVE TIME...BUY ONE OF THESE;

http://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-841475-10........=1436579268&sr=8-6&keywords=10%22+buffer

You'll have your camper done in no time, and the buffer can be used o all your cars and trucks as well. These 8-12" orbitals WILL NOT burn your paint, no matter hard you try.


Not trying to pick an argument here, but my opinion of these random orbitals is they are only "slightly better" than hand polishing. And yes, I have one.

As you point out, they will not burn your paint. Which is both a blessing....and a curse. The reason they won't burn your paint is because "they are not doing much".

I do still use mine sometimes for final buffing on clear coats of the cars and trucks. I also let the beginners use it when they are learning how to use power to buff wax off. The clear coats on factory paint on cars is very thin indeed. The gel coat on these campers is a lot thicker than clear coat.

Your point is valid though that using a rotary buffer is an acquired skill, and if a person is stupid with it, you "can" screw up the finish.


You cannot screw up the finish using an orbital buffer unless you contaminate the pad with an abrasive or an abrasive polish, which these machines are not made for.

That aside, these 8-12" pad size buffers are impossible to misuse. When my son was 6, he helping out many times, and I let him use the buffer. No big deal. Worse this that can happen is he gets the wax/polish in or on something it should not be...same as hand waxing/polishing.

I use to be a professional detailer, and have used all types and brands. What is an acquired skill not everyone can master and can damage paint easily, is HIGH SPEED BUFFING. I never was comfortable doing it, but I was pretty good at it. There are people who could put me to shame and repair heavy clear coat damage (and blending) better than I could ever dream.

Rotary buffers are a hybrid of orbitals and high speed buffers. There is mild skill involved, but relatively safe to use for beginners. Larger orbitals are fool-proof.

Regarding hand vs machine. They are not better or worse than waxing/buffing/polishing by hand. But your hand cannot orbit thousands of times per minute, right? That's the difference. Its effortless and fast. You wont even break a sweat in most cases.

gmw photos

midwest

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Posted: 07/11/15 11:48am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

RinconVTR wrote:

gmw photos wrote:

RinconVTR wrote:

How many RV'ers does it take to change a light bulb?

Man you guys make life difficult!

Just buy your favorite brand RV/Marine product like this;

http://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-M4965-Mar........9149&sr=8-1&keywords=meguires+rv+wax+kit

AND TO ELIMINATE ANY HIGH EFFORT AND SAVE TIME...BUY ONE OF THESE;

http://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-841475-10........=1436579268&sr=8-6&keywords=10%22+buffer

You'll have your camper done in no time, and the buffer can be used o all your cars and trucks as well. These 8-12" orbitals WILL NOT burn your paint, no matter hard you try.


Not trying to pick an argument here, but my opinion of these random orbitals is they are only "slightly better" than hand polishing. And yes, I have one.

As you point out, they will not burn your paint. Which is both a blessing....and a curse. The reason they won't burn your paint is because "they are not doing much".

I do still use mine sometimes for final buffing on clear coats of the cars and trucks. I also let the beginners use it when they are learning how to use power to buff wax off. The clear coats on factory paint on cars is very thin indeed. The gel coat on these campers is a lot thicker than clear coat.

Your point is valid though that using a rotary buffer is an acquired skill, and if a person is stupid with it, you "can" screw up the finish.


You cannot screw up the finish using an orbital buffer unless you contaminate the pad with an abrasive or an abrasive polish, which these machines are not made for.

That aside, these 8-12" pad size buffers are impossible to misuse. When my son was 6, he helping out many times, and I let him use the buffer. No big deal. Worse this that can happen is he gets the wax/polish in or on something it should not be...same as hand waxing/polishing.

I use to be a professional detailer, and have used all types and brands. What is an acquired skill not everyone can master and can damage paint easily, is HIGH SPEED BUFFING. I never was comfortable doing it, but I was pretty good at it. There are people who could put me to shame and repair heavy clear coat damage (and blending) better than I could ever dream.

Rotary buffers are a hybrid of orbitals and high speed buffers. There is mild skill involved, but relatively safe to use for beginners. Larger orbitals are fool-proof.

Regarding hand vs machine. They are not better or worse than waxing/buffing/polishing by hand. But your hand cannot orbit thousands of times per minute, right? That's the difference. Its effortless and fast. You wont even break a sweat in most cases.


To be honest, I'm not sure the distinction you are making between what I am calling a "rotary" and a "high speed buffer". Maybe ( likely ) I am getting my terminology wrong. The "rotary" buffer I have simply goes 'round in a circle. It has a dial to adjust the speed from zero RPM up to some top speed ( can't remember how fast, but it's faster than I have ever needed ).
Your point about using the correct pads and being certain to not contaminate them with "other" products is of course critical to the success of using these things.
All of which goes beyond what is likely needed to make a RV look good. Let's face it, the final finish on an RV is simply not on the same level as even a factory automotive paint job, let alone a good higher end pro body shop paint job.
My only point about the whole thing is that a true buffer that simply rotates, as compared to these "dual action, random orbital, jitterbug" ( or whatever you want to call them )....the rotary that you can control speed on, simply does a faster job, and the result is typically smoother. Although, to digress on that, the final finish smoothness also has a lot to do with how well you do the initial prep work ( clay bar, compounding, polishing, etc ).
Which is way more than anybody here probably wanted to know ! [emoticon]

I will admit, I enjoy using buffers, hand waxing, detailing etc. To me, the whole exercise is "therapy". It's something for me to do on stupidly cold or hot days, because my shop is heated/air conditioned, and it's just a peaceful place to be doing something "fun". And the results are nice when all done.

You're right that using a lightweight random orbital is "easy" to the point of, as you say, you won't even break a sweat.

Over and out.

westend

Shorewood, MN

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Posted: 07/11/15 06:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

All of this talk of buffing is great until a guy gets hooked on polishing bare metal. I've polished aluminum plate to mirror finishes using average car products and sundry sanders. I use a 10" or 7" rotary to burnish car waxes. As was said, the machine can make movements 1000/1 over hand.

Metal polishing example:

[image]


'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

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