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Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes  >  Restoration & Vintage RVs

 > restoring 1987 holaday Rambler

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femailyetti

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Posted: 12/26/18 06:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

There are also four on the hinge side. after drilling them out and taking off the cover this is what ya get. This is after some removal of three side of goop.

[image]

femailyetti

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Posted: 12/26/18 06:22am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The hinge is a interlocking type. You can slide the two parts apart for greasing and cleaning now.

[image]

sundancer268

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Posted: 12/28/18 01:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Looking good so far. Looking at your reefer vent pictures, I would go back and fill in the area between the coil and the outside wall so ALL the air has to pass through the coil. Dometic and Norcold installation manuals have maximum gap that is allowed for best performance of the reefer and Holiday Rambler did not comply with the instructions for installation. Lots of manufacturers don't follow instructions on reefer installs. Go to this site Bryant RV http://bryantrv.com/docs.html and get the Manuals for your reefer and you will see what I mean, I am sure your manual will be there and if it isn't look at any of the other manuals and they will all say about the same thing on clearances.


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femailyetti

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Posted: 12/28/18 11:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I WILL LOOK. I am going to put some sort of fan at the top, that is triggered by a relay that makes the fan run when the reefer kicks on, if its plugged in to shore power, or the generator is running.

I did not think about the clearance around the coils as a issue. I will read and see what is up. I am not sure how hot the coils get. I assume any thing I put in there will have to have some sort of heat rating to accommodate the temperature of the coil, the wonderful humidity, and the summer temps we have here in Florida.

sundancer268

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Posted: 12/29/18 10:21am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

On my coach, they just used a piece of 1/4" plywood to plug the gap. I think the highest heat area would be the boiler where the Propane burner and electric heating element are located everything down stream would be cooler as the heat is removed in the coils. I don't know how to attach a file from my computer otherwise I would send you the Dometic Venting Requirements PDF I have in my coach files. Here is a Google Search link that brings........ Dometic, I am sure Norcold is the same.

fulltimin

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Posted: 12/29/18 01:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

sundancer268 wrote:

On my coach, they just used a piece of 1/4" plywood to plug the gap. I think the highest heat area would be the boiler where the Propane burner and electric heating element are located everything down stream would be cooler as the heat is removed in the coils. I don't know how to attach a file from my computer otherwise I would send you the Dometic Venting Requirements PDF I have in my coach files. Here is a Google Search link that brings........ Dometic, I am sure Norcold is the same.




Thanks for posting the link. That is very helpful!


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sundancer268

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Posted: 12/30/18 11:08am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

You are welcome, have a happy new year.

femailyetti

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Posted: 01/13/19 07:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My son blow the motor in my S10. He said "lets put a V8 in it". I was looking at conversion kits, and a compete Chevy Love truck popped up in the search replies.It cme out cheaper then buyng all the parts for my Truck.
I know have a 1972 Luv truck with a 350 CI motor, a 350 Automatic, with a ford ninw inch rear end in my yard.

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femailyetti

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Posted: 01/13/19 07:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The other side.

[image]

femailyetti

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Posted: 01/13/19 07:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

They did some changes on the inside passenger dash and center hump area.
[image]

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