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Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes  >  Restoration & Vintage RVs

 > Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

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fulltimin

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Posted: 08/22/18 09:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

STBRetired wrote:

So I would gather that flat aluminum sheeting, like you would see on a cargo trailer would be out due to the poor appearance of all the seams. You can get rolls of aluminum in various alloys from metal supply houses. I would think .05" would be thick enough and you can get widths of 8' pretty easily. How to fasten it would be a challenge. You don't want to put a bunch of screws through it, so I guess you glue it on like filon. Not sure if it will telegraph the seams where your plywood sheets meet.

Do give some consideration to penetration protection. You would not want a wayward tree branch to open up the side if youe MH like a can opener. Saw that happen to a friend's stacker trailer. Fab'd up a 6' giant can opener to give them at the race banquet that year.

Those roofing panels that George posted do seem to have some potential.


I would assume that if the aluminum is thick enough, that would mostly eliminate the plywood seams. Gluing aluminum should be no different than gluing filon of fiberglass. Probably a pain, but do-able.

I like the giant can opener. Hope he had a good sense of humor. Lol.


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fulltimin

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Posted: 08/22/18 09:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

STBRetired wrote:

fulltimin wrote:



Ideally would be to stop the rolling and forming just before the window and door openings. That would allow for a flat surface for the window and door openings.

Then again, the original fiberglass was the same. Formed from front to back, and the factory just put a bunch of caulking between the window frame and the fiberglass. Of course, they leaked, so, there ya go. Lol.


J channel works pretty well on houses, I suppose you could caulk the dickens out of it to prevent leakage.


Yea, I am not a really big fan of caulk. I would rather build it where it would not leak water, even if there was no caulk. I know, easier said than done. Lol.

Bruce Brown

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Posted: 08/23/18 04:42am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The windows have a butyl putty tape in them, not just caulk. Double it up if needed. Make sure it's fresh when installed and it fills in nicely.


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STBRetired

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Posted: 08/23/18 07:17am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Have you considered using something like BlueSkin behind the siding? It would work well behind any siding that required mechanical fasteners instead of glue. They also make a butyl flashing tape in various widths.


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fulltimin

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Posted: 08/23/18 07:46am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

STBRetired wrote:

Have you considered using something like BlueSkin behind the siding? It would work well behind any siding that required mechanical fasteners instead of glue. They also make a butyl flashing tape in various widths.




I've never heard of that. I'll do some reading on their website, to get to know it. Thanks.

wildmanbaker

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Posted: 08/23/18 08:24am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Well, you asked for it, and your got it! I'm surprised that no one suggested flatting aluminum cans and tabbing them on the side.


Wildmanbaker


fulltimin

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Posted: 08/23/18 08:31am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

wildmanbaker wrote:

Well, you asked for it, and your got it! I'm surprised that no one suggested flatting aluminum cans and tabbing them on the side.


What a cheap way to make shingles. I love it! Lol. Should I keep the logo side in, or out?

wildmanbaker

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Posted: 08/23/18 08:48am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Out, of course.

fulltimin

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Posted: 08/23/18 11:30am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

So, it could end up looking like this.......



[image]



or this.................



[image]



Just plenty of staples necessary!

Bill1374

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Posted: 08/23/18 06:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'm kind of partial to a smooth fiberglass side, maybe in a soft white with a painted stripe or stripes down the side to break up the profile. Does not need to be a brite color nor very wide either.


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