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Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes  >  Restoration & Vintage RVs

 > Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

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fulltimin

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Posted: 10/17/19 09:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Finally, I added a cross piece and a brace for the door. Was the brace necessary? Not really. Normally, this type of brace is used with a gate, to help keep the gate from sagging.

Looking at the door here, the view is from the inside, and the hinges will be on the left side. On a gate, the diagonal piece would help transfer the weight of the unsupported right side, to the lower left side.

Since this door will actually be skinned/glued on both sides, the brace wasn't really necessary, but I did it anyway. Why? Because I could. Lol. Yes, I used more Kreg screws.

I also coated everything inside with more Por 15, so tomorrow it will be ready for gluing some insulation in there. Wahoo!



[image]


If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.

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PastorCharlie

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Posted: 10/18/19 07:45am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Will there be blocking for the door lock to make for a stronger latch?

dennis1

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Posted: 10/18/19 10:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Yeah right


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Bill.Satellite

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Posted: 10/18/19 03:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

He seems to understand the minutiae of construction. I suspect he is not going to have a door that swings open and closed but does not have a way of properly securing it.


What I post is my 2 cents and nothing more. Please don't read anything into my post that's not there. If you disagree, that's OK.
Can't we all just get along?

PastorCharlie

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Posted: 10/18/19 07:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

He mentioned that the hinges will be on the left side of the door in his post above my previous one therefore it is a swing door and not sliding.

STBRetired

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Posted: 10/18/19 08:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The only thing is, any additional blocking for latch support should have been added at the same time as the diagonal brace. Only other possibility is some unusual latch which would only need that perimeter support. Would not surprise me. A mortice lock would not need the additional bracing, but have never heard of a mortice lockset on a motorhome.


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fulltimin

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Posted: 10/18/19 08:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

PastorCharlie wrote:

Will there be blocking for the door lock to make for a stronger latch?




Assuming you are talking about extra blocking like this. This is 2 pieces of plywood glued together, and then glued to the outside frame, the inner brace from upper right to lower left, and glued to the 1/4" plywood that has been glued to the outside. This section is also screwed in, instead of stapled in place.

So, yea, this isn't going anywhere. Thanks for the reminder.

That section is 7" wide at the bottom, and about 16" long.



[image]

fulltimin

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Posted: 10/18/19 08:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

STBRetired wrote:

The only thing is, any additional blocking for latch support should have been added at the same time as the diagonal brace. Only other possibility is some unusual latch which would only need that perimeter support. Would not surprise me. A mortice lock would not need the additional bracing, but have never heard of a mortice lockset on a motorhome.




Haven't fully settled on a lock setup yet. I did, however, take the original lock setup apart, to see what it looked like. Details below.

fulltimin

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Posted: 10/18/19 08:48pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

This, is apparently, the correct way to install a standard lock system, according to Fleetwood in 1983.

The black arrow points to the white foam insulation, which is sandwiched inside the door. There is a little wood surrounding the lock. The red arrow points to a 1/16" x 1/4" piece of steel, running the length of the door, on the lock side, nothing on the hinge side.

The green arrow points to the inside skin, which was very thin aluminum, glued to the white insulation.

There was also a piece of thin fiberglass glued on the outside, as well as a u shaped aluminum channel over all 4 edges of the door. I did not see any caulking/sealant between the aluminum and the outside fiberglass skin.

They did, however, have 2 holes in the bottom piece of the door, for water to get out! Lol.



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fulltimin

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Posted: 10/18/19 08:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

This is the inside of the door lock assembly. This plate is secured by 2 screws into the outer lock assembly. The handle is not removable from the inside of the coach. There are no screws around circular portion of the handle.



[image]



This is the back side of the plate. As you can see, there is a retaining ring on the inside, that holds the inside handle in place.



[image]

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