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Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes  >  Restoration & Vintage RVs

 > Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

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fulltimin

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Posted: 04/07/21 09:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Next, I check to see if there is any play between the fence and a tooth on the saw blade. If the work moves, I know I will not have the same width cut as I have on the original.

Here, after pushing the work towards the blade, there is a slight gap between the wood and the fence, so I know it needs adjustment.



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fulltimin

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Posted: 04/07/21 09:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have the left side of the plywood against a tooth on the blade, not just the blade itself, as the tooth is wider than the blade.

Making sure there is no play between the blade tooth, and fence, I can cut the next set, knowing they will be the same size.



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fulltimin

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Posted: 04/09/21 10:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

While I am working on the drawers, I have a question.

I've been considering lighting inside, and would like to use all LED's.

We like the 6K lights, which are a bright light - more similar to daylight than the soft white lights, which are more commonly used.

I have 2 different sets of overhead lights which I can use LED's in. One set uses the standard 1141 type bulb.

The other set uses the T10 wedge type.

I would also like to use some LED string lights which are also 12 volt dc.

Any recommendations?

joerg68

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Posted: 04/10/21 04:03am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The only recommendation I have: You will not need very bright light in the drawers.
Try some of the lights in your home with a 12 V source.
With all the wires needed for the drawers, there is a risk of something getting caught or tangled up.
Do not forget proper fuses. You don't want an electric short to burn up the wiring (and start a fire...).


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fulltimin

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Posted: 04/10/21 07:25am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

joerg68 wrote:

The only recommendation I have: You will not need very bright light in the drawers.
Try some of the lights in your home with a 12 V source.
With all the wires needed for the drawers, there is a risk of something getting caught or tangled up.
Do not forget proper fuses. You don't want an electric short to burn up the wiring (and start a fire...).



Thanks for the post.

I did a poor job of writing that question. My fault.

I am not planning on putting lights in the drawers. I was actually talking about lighting on the ceiling.

There, that should be a little more clear.

Lt46

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Posted: 04/10/21 08:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

For what it's worth, I pulled my 1141's out of my ceiling lights and replaced with LED.....not very happy and will probably go back to 1141's. LED's are bright at the fixture but the brightness diminishes not too far from the fixture. For example, when the ceiling light is "on" and I'm at the sink washing dishes, the sink is dark because my body blocks the light and the brightness does not project as far as I like. If that makes any sense.


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Posted: 04/10/21 05:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I replaced the T-10 type bulbs with this flat panel https://m4products.com/alplate-24-5630-nw-natural-white-double-aluminum-plate/ I am very happy with these plates and they come with various adapters to fit the many light sockets. I applied them to my fixtures using RTV Silicone caulk instead of relying on the double sided tape.


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fulltimin

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Posted: 04/10/21 09:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lt46 wrote:

For what it's worth, I pulled my 1141's out of my ceiling lights and replaced with LED.....not very happy and will probably go back to 1141's. LED's are bright at the fixture but the brightness diminishes not too far from the fixture. For example, when the ceiling light is "on" and I'm at the sink washing dishes, the sink is dark because my body blocks the light and the brightness does not project as far as I like. If that makes any sense.




Thanks for the reply.

Makes perfect sense. Would it make much difference if the light was more directly over the sink?

fulltimin

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Posted: 04/10/21 09:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

sundancer268 wrote:

I replaced the T-10 type bulbs with this flat panel https://m4products.com/alplate-24-5630-nw-natural-white-double-aluminum-plate/ I am very happy with these plates and they come with various adapters to fit the many light sockets. I applied them to my fixtures using RTV Silicone caulk instead of relying on the double sided tape.




Thanks for the link. I just ordered one to compare with what I already have. I see these have 2 pigtails to work with either type of socket.

Supposed to be here next week - maybe. Lol.

I'll give a comparison.

fulltimin

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Posted: 04/10/21 09:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have 6 more drawers to assemble for this section beneath the counter.

Tonight, I cut the grooves in all of the drawer pieces for the drawer bottoms, which are - (you guessed it - not quite 1/4" in thickness)!

That required 2 passes with a router bit that was less than 1/4" in order to get the required width of the groove.

1/4" bit would make the plywood fit looser than I would like.

So, I now have 12 drawer sides, with the grooves.



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