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Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes  >  Restoration & Vintage RVs

 > Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

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fulltimin

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Posted: 12/05/18 09:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

This is a pic of the section on the inside, with the ribs to help keep the plastic stiff.



[image]


If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.

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A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.

fulltimin

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Posted: 12/05/18 09:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If I do need to flex the very end of the plastic, all I would need to do is to cut these ribs, and that would allow flexing of the last 2 inches of material. Cool, huh? Lol.

Hey, as I've said before, it's not rocket science.



[image]

ro_sie

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Posted: 12/06/18 05:12am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

After you add the weight of the interior and then the weight of yourself and other camping items, how much more clearance are you going to lose?


ro_sie
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STBRetired

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Posted: 12/06/18 07:53am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I guess this question might just as well be directed to Bill. How do you plan on applying the foam? Are you going to just shoot in on and leave it all lumpy and bumpy, or are you going to try to smooth it out with a putty knife or something similar? That stuff is really sticky and I don't know how well it will smooth out. Maybe the low expansion version that you use around windows and doors would work better.


1999 Newmar MACA 3796 F53 6.8L
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fulltimin

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Posted: 12/06/18 08:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ro_sie wrote:

After you add the weight of the interior and then the weight of yourself and other camping items, how much more clearance are you going to lose?



I don't think I'll lose much, if any. The air bags at the rear are not inflated to where I would normally run them.

Even before I started the rebuild, when traveling, with the rear bags inflated, the back end tended to be a little higher than the front.

If I went from 20 lbs up to 70 or 80, I think the max is 90, it would raise the back, (over top of the wheels, not the rear bumper), by several inches.

That clearance, doesn't really concern me, as long as the air bags are inflated. Like I mentioned earlier, at 6" from where the axle is now, the axle will bottom out on the frame, so if I leave about 8 inches or so, it should be okay.

If a tire blows, all bets are off, no matter how much clearance is there!

fulltimin

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Posted: 12/06/18 08:25am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

STBRetired wrote:

I guess this question might just as well be directed to Bill. How do you plan on applying the foam? Are you going to just shoot in on and leave it all lumpy and bumpy, or are you going to try to smooth it out with a putty knife or something similar? That stuff is really sticky and I don't know how well it will smooth out. Maybe the low expansion version that you use around windows and doors would work better.


Use the wife's rolling pin? Lol. Yea, NOT!

It maybe easier to just let it harden and then cut it to a rough shape?

STBRetired

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Posted: 12/06/18 08:35am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

fulltimin wrote:


It maybe easier to just let it harden and then cut it to a rough shape?

That might make it more susceptible to damage as it kind of forma a "skin" on the surface and it seems to be easier to squish it once the skin is gone, at least in my experience. Let's see what Bill says, as he is the one with the experience lining wheel wells with it.

Wonder what you would get if you removed the tube and just let it splatter out from the nozzle without it. Have never tried that and don't have any in the garage to experiment with. Was wondering if you would get something like really messy gunite.

PastorCharlie

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Posted: 12/06/18 05:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Using a rubber seal of some sort between the plastic wheel cover and where it attaches to the floor will add a sound deadener and help seal the connection from water intrusion.

fulltimin

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Posted: 12/06/18 05:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

PastorCharlie wrote:

Using a rubber seal of some sort between the plastic wheel cover and where it attaches to the floor will add a sound deadener and help seal the connection from water intrusion.



I was planning on using the Chemlink M-1, which as you know from following this thread is an adhesive. It does have a little flex to it, but makes everything waterproof and very well sealed.

fulltimin

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Posted: 12/06/18 09:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I am going to ramble tonight. Oh, No. Oh, yes. Lol.

Someday's, things just seem to "come to ya", you know?

Today was one of those days.

By the time you are done reading this, surely you will say, this guy has totally lost his mind!

You're more than a half a bubble out of plumb.

Definitely, completely out of level.

I must admit, I've been struggling just a little with these wheel wells. Even with the plastic, I'm not 100% happy.

Today, I had a series of thoughts, that actually led to something that might actually work.

I don't know exactly what set me off, but my thought was, jokingly of course, maybe I'll just take a piece of cardboard and coat it with Por 15, and call it a wheel well. Lol. Duh.

My next thought was, forget the cardboard. All you need is a roll of paper towels, and Por 15. About 4 layers of cross linked paper towels, soaked with Por 15, and I am good to go. I actually hung over 60 lbs of weight on a piece of paper towel before it broke.

Then I laughed at myself out loud. That's just nuts. Paper towels for wheel wells. What a bonehead!

Then, I continued to think, just a little. Wait a minute.

Pastor Charlie suggested fiberglass. Por 15 can be used in place of fiberglass, according to their website. They claim it's actually harder than fiberglass.

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