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Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes  >  Restoration & Vintage RVs

 > Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

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fulltimin

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Posted: 09/09/19 09:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ok, back to the roof/wall area.

Here is a drawing which shows my dilemma. The drawing shows how the roof and wall are attached.

The lower right is where the problem is. That is a view from the side of the motor home. The 1/4 inch plywood has a slight bow in between the roof joists.

I want that to be flat/straight, (obviously).



[image]


If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.

-------------------------------------------------

Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.

fulltimin

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Posted: 09/09/19 09:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

In the drawing below, shows my original plan, which was the steel angle, (shown in blue), which would create a straight roofline from front to rear and give me a place to mount the brackets for the solar panels I plan to put on the roof.

A second option would be to add a 3/4 inch piece of tapered plywood on top of the plywood there now, (black piece on top), (not drawn to scale), which would flatten the roof along the sides. Then I could cover the entire roof with another thin layer of plywood on top, which was planned anyway, and then just secure the solar panel brackets to the side of the rig, into the wall joists.

That would probably be a lot easier, and would only change the roof taper a little.



[image]

STBRetired

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Posted: 09/10/19 07:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hope you would be using a high ply count plywood for your wedge. 13-ply would probably hold up to being cut like that. CDX would not. If you go with the wedge, will you be elimination the drip edge overhang? Or will it become part of the top sheet that you will add? I was going to suggest that you use dimensional lumber for the wedge instead of the plywood, but then I thought of concerns about warpage. Think the ply might be the best option.


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fulltimin

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Posted: 09/10/19 09:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Here's a pic of what the foam looked like this morning on the passenger side. Not good.



[image]



[image]



[image]

fulltimin

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Posted: 09/10/19 09:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Now, we've got 'er all cleaned up. The rest of the foam around the outside edges looked pretty good, so I left it in place.



[image]



Then I added a layer on each side, (actually, front and rear), and gave it several hours to cure.



[image]

fulltimin

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Posted: 09/10/19 09:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

After curing a few hours, (actually, about 6 hours), the foam expanded to look like this.



[image]

fulltimin

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Posted: 09/10/19 09:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Then, I filled in the rest, and will wait until tomorrow for this to cure.



[image]



My parents used to say, "haste makes waste". That was surely the case here, on the first try.

I thought I could do it all in one try, but, obviously, that didn't work.

fulltimin

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Posted: 09/10/19 09:27pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A while back, I posted about a couple who converted a bus, and the woman said, "nothing was impossible, as long as we were willing to do it over 3 or 4 times to get it right"!

Fortunately, I have not had to do much of this build a second time, much less 3 or 4 times, and hope that doesn't change for the rest of it. Lol.

fulltimin

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Posted: 09/10/19 09:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

STBRetired wrote:

Hope you would be using a high ply count plywood for your wedge. 13-ply would probably hold up to being cut like that. CDX would not. If you go with the wedge, will you be elimination the drip edge overhang? Or will it become part of the top sheet that you will add? I was going to suggest that you use dimensional lumber for the wedge instead of the plywood, but then I thought of concerns about warpage. Think the ply might be the best option.




I definitely would use a high plywood count. I don't have much time for the low count layer plywood, as it doesn't lay very flat.

I don't want to eliminate the drip edge, but would probably let the plywood extend over the edge a little bit.

I thought about dimensional lumber, but I am not convinced that over the long term, it would hold up like I would like. Both warpage and splitting have been a concern.

The plywood would be a much easier option, but won't give me as much strength as a steel angle on the outside.

The steel would create more strength overall, for the roof plywood, as it would be attached to the steel angle.

Either way, I have worked my way into a corner, and have to make a decision within a day or two, as that will be my next big project on this build.

STBRetired

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Posted: 09/11/19 10:05am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I keep looking around for some place to get your metal angle iron. Found this outfit that does custom roll forming. Johnson Brothers They have a picture on their site that shows a profile exactly like you have drawn. Maybe fill out the RFQ form and see what they come back with. I would probably ask for 8 foot lengths just to save on shipping costs.
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