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Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes  >  Restoration & Vintage RVs

 > Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

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fulltimin

Home is where we Park It.

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Posted: 06/06/19 09:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Remember the router bit I bought a little while ago? I set that up in my router to be able to use it to trim the excess plywood from the door frame.

Initially, I set the depth of the router bit, so the ball bearings on the bottom would contact the steel frame, and allow everything between the bearings and the router to be trimmed.

Setting the depth looked like this.



[image]


If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.

-------------------------------------------------

Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.

fulltimin

Home is where we Park It.

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Posted: 06/06/19 09:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Here you can see how the router bit rides on the steel, while the plywood gets cut to the same pattern as the steel frame.

The red arrow points to the ball bearings at the end of the router bit.



[image]

fulltimin

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Posted: 06/06/19 09:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

After trimming, you can see how the plywood matches the steel frame.



[image]



Plan on buying some 1/8" plywood from Home Depot shortly, so I can begin putting that up on the inside walls.

That will start the inside looking like something is actually getting done! Yippee!

2bzy2c

California

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Posted: 06/07/19 03:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

fulltimin wrote:

Wanted to give an little update on last night's post. Why, after all the fuss about not wanting to put holes in the rv, would I add a bunch of screws to hold in the back window?

Well, let's look at the bigger picture.



[image]



Let's look at all the other screws in the back wall. The red arrows show many screws that are holding the back wall on. All of those will be covered up, maybe by fiberglass. As such, what's a few more screws around the window.

The window area will be probably fiberglassed in as well, including the frame, so that will close up those holes. What happens if you have a problem with the window frame?

Same as buying a Corvette, I guess. Fix it. Once that is sealed in, there should be no need to reseal the window with caulk like the rest of the industry, because there won't be any "caulk" exposed.


Okay, so now I have to jump in here. You are going to fiberglass the entire exterior of the RV? Like a Corvette? Good luck with that one. I have done lots of fiberglass work in the past, and I am here to tell you there is no way you are not going to have even close to a decent looking product at the end. To do it correctly, you have to create the walls in a mold. Like boat manufacturers do. Even RV 's like Bigfoot, the shells are made from a mold. There is no way you can lay that up by hand. You really need to rethink that idea. Correction, don't rethink it, just don't do it.


My advice is worth exactly what you paid for it.

fulltimin

Home is where we Park It.

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Posted: 06/07/19 09:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Here's an update to unclogging a tube of caulk/adhesive that has partially cured in the end.

If it has cured all the way into the tube itself, then this won't work.

This particular tube of ChemLink has been sitting for several weeks, so it cured about 3/8" in from the end. In this case, after leaving the adhesive stick out of the end a little, wasn't enough to pull the cured portion out.

So, I used a deck screw - this one was 3" long, screwed it in, and tried to pull it out without success.



[image]

fulltimin

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Posted: 06/07/19 09:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When I say without success, I mean I could not pull it out by hand.

The next best thing was to add a little persuasion, in the form of the claw from a claw hammer. That worked like a champ.



[image]



At that point, I could go ahead and just squeeze away. Lol.

fulltimin

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Posted: 06/07/19 09:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I added some plywood today around the rear window. I wanted to strengthen that area some, because I want to be able to use that area to fasten some extra items later on, and I don't want it flimsy back there.

Using this fan is a real treat. This particular fan is only for use during construction, although nicer looking ones are available on Amazon for $30 to $50 bucks. Add a little frame around one of them, and we we'll have a nice looking fan that will move mega amounts of air.



[image]



Hey, they even come in colors! Lol.



[image] [image]



All that for less than $50.

fulltimin

Home is where we Park It.

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Posted: 06/08/19 08:48pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

2bzy2c wrote:

I suggest we all buy stock in Chemlink. His usage alone has got to increase that stocks value. [emoticon]



Somehow, I missed this post earlier.

After you buy the ChemLink stock, you might as well buy some ChemLink, and boost your own stock! Lol.

fulltimin

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Posted: 06/08/19 09:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Remember this pic from quite a while ago?



[image]



Yea, that one. I am going to build one of these at the back, to cover up the window in the back wall.

That will give us some additional privacy back there, when that slides shut.

When we want light/ventilation, we can just slide this to the one side and now we either have light, or we can open the window and we will have ventilation.

Seems like a win - win to me! YeeHaw!

I don't know, somehow or another, I just like the look and feel of that.

fulltimin

Home is where we Park It.

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Posted: 06/08/19 09:08pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The plan to put one of these at the rear, was the reason for not putting the original window back in there.

That window was too wide to allow a slider to cover it. The original window was more than 1/3 the width of the back wall, so I would have to either offset the window to the one side, or not use the sliding cover.

I opted to slightly reduce the size of the window so I could add the sliding cover and not have to offset the window.

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