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Open Roads Forum  >  Class A Motorhomes  >  Restoration & Vintage RVs

 > Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

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fulltimin

Home is where we Park It.

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Posted: 12/21/19 09:48pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

George Beggs wrote:

Where are you putting the generator?



What generator? Lol.

I am planning on using a solar panels, so a generator won't be needed all the time.

Based on the current estimated floor plan, it will be at the back. I am not using an Onan generator, but rather one of the newer inverter generators. They are much smaller and more energy efficient.

The drawing below shows 2 possible placements in the red rectangle. Either of them will be partly inside and partly outside with a cover to keep it out of the weather.

If I choose the passenger side placement, I could get it completely inside with just a venting door on the outside.

I suppose, if I chose that area, I could vent it to the right side instead of the rear as well.



[image]


If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.

-------------------------------------------------

Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.

fulltimin

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Posted: 12/21/19 09:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

STBRetired wrote:

fulltimin wrote:


Probably 2 1/2 years ago. I don't think that will be a problem. Haven't cranked it over since there is no battery in it, but I have no reason to believe it would be locked up.

Odds are that you have at least 2 cylinders open to the atmosphere because an intake or exhaust valve is not completely seated. The coating of oil on the cylinder wall will eventually evaporate and moisture from the air will begin to rust the wall and the top ring. Same with valve stems and bearings. They will dry out and start to rust. Would be a real shame for you to finish the house and then find out you need to rebuild the engine. We don't let our race engines sit for more than 60 days without cranking them over to spread the oil around again. If I recall correctly, you had a lot of rain earlier this year. Moisture is not your engine's friend.




Actually, a rebuilt engine would be a plus, wouldn't it? Lol. After all the other work and expense, that would be a minor one.

I guess it would not hurt to hook up a battery and give it a try.

Bruce Brown

Northern NY

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Posted: 12/22/19 04:04am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It might be minor work but it wouldn't be a minor expense.


There are 24 hours in every day - it all depends on how you choose to use them.
Bruce & Jill Brown
2008 Kountry Star Pusher 3910


fulltimin

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Posted: 12/22/19 07:17am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Bruce Brown wrote:

It might be minor work but it wouldn't be a minor expense.



I guess it depends on how you define minor. Reman engines for that year are available for less than 3 grand. It's a Chevy 454, so it's nothing exotic.

From my perspective, I don't think that is excessive. If we were talking a diesel for around 20 grand, that is a different issue.

STBRetired

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Posted: 12/22/19 08:54am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

fulltimin wrote:


...
From my perspective, I don't think that is excessive. If we were talking a diesel for around 20 grand, that is a different issue.

For $20K I might be willing to part with a 540 BBC that makes 897 hp and 755 lbft of torque on methanol. Only has about 50 miles on it since full rebuild last winter. Couldn't squeeze out 900 hp because was lousy weather when we had it on the dyno. Gets about 4 gpm with a 4.31 rear end ratio. Can run gas with a different carb and would get about 1.5 gpm on 113 octane.


1999 Newmar MACA 3796 F53 6.8L
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fulltimin

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Posted: 12/22/19 09:01am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

STBRetired wrote:

fulltimin wrote:


...
From my perspective, I don't think that is excessive. If we were talking a diesel for around 20 grand, that is a different issue.

For $20K I might be willing to part with a 540 BBC that makes 897 hp and 755 lbft of torque on methanol. Only has about 50 miles on it since full rebuild last winter. Couldn't squeeze out 900 hp because was lousy weather when we had it on the dyno. Gets about 4 gpm with a 4.31 rear end ratio. Can run gas with a different carb and would get about 1.5 gpm on 113 octane.



Does that come with a guarantee that my 12,000 lb motorhome will turn sub 10 second runs in the quarter mile?

wildmanbaker

Kennewick, Washington

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Posted: 12/22/19 02:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

fulltimin wrote:

STBRetired wrote:

fulltimin wrote:


...
From my perspective, I don't think that is excessive. If we were talking a diesel for around 20 grand, that is a different issue.

For $20K I might be willing to part with a 540 BBC that makes 897 hp and 755 lbft of torque on methanol. Only has about 50 miles on it since full rebuild last winter. Couldn't squeeze out 900 hp because was lousy weather when we had it on the dyno. Gets about 4 gpm with a 4.31 rear end ratio. Can run gas with a different carb and would get about 1.5 gpm on 113 octane.



Does that come with a guarantee that my 12,000 lb motorhome will turn sub 10 second runs in the quarter mile?

Yes, and solar will be all you need for power also.


Wildmanbaker


STBRetired

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Posted: 12/22/19 02:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

fulltimin wrote:


Does that come with a guarantee that my 12,000 lb motorhome will turn sub 10 second runs in the quarter mile?

While that engine can propel a 1900 lb dragster through a quarter mile in 7.7 seconds, I doubt that it could drag 12,000 lbs of motorhome in 10. Probably not even in the eighth. Now we do have a 632 BBC that makes just shy of 1300 hp. But that would cost about $35K and still probably wouldn't get you your 10 second quarter. Might be fun in the PT Cruiser, though. At one of the tracks we regularly run, there is a guy running a Smart car with a 500 ci BBC and it runs mid 6's if he doesn't break the tires loose mid run.

Bruce Brown

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Posted: 12/22/19 04:43pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

fulltimin wrote:

Bruce Brown wrote:

It might be minor work but it wouldn't be a minor expense.



I guess it depends on how you define minor. Reman engines for that year are available for less than 3 grand. It's a Chevy 454, so it's nothing exotic.

From my perspective, I don't think that is excessive. If we were talking a diesel for around 20 grand, that is a different issue.


Or...you could just treat the one you already own like it should have been treated and the expense would be, oh, I don't know...ZERO.

Maybe its just me but I don't consider $3k to be a minor expense. [emoticon]

STBRetired

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Posted: 12/22/19 06:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

All joking about dragster engines aside, you should crank that engine over as soon as possible. But do a few things first. Pull all the spark plugs and get one of those USB or WiFi inspection cameras (about $15 online) and have a look into each cylinder to see what it looks like. A little bit of rust probably won't hurt anything. But if it looks crusty with big flakes of rust you could be in for big trouble. With light or no rust, just get a can of fogging oil spray from your local auto parts store and give a good shot into each cylinder. Let It sit for 30 minutes or so to soak in around the top ring, then try to crank it over with the plugs out. If you see heavy rust, dose the cylinders heavily with PBBlaster or similar and let it sit for a day or two. Do not crank it over. Use compressed air to blow the gunk out of the cylinder. Hit it with PBBlaster again and repeat the procedure. Only when you are no longer blowing out crud should you attempt to crank it over. You might want to try turning it with a ratchet on the crank pulley rather than stressing the starter if the engine is partially or fully seized.

Obviously it will need an oil change before you run it for any length of time. Once it is running, change the oil again after an hour or so of run time. Take the oil filter and cut it open. Pull out the filter element and unfold it on a table. Get a magnifying glass and look for signs of metal in the oil. Keep a close eye on your oil pressure while it is running. If it is lower than usual or drops suddenly, then shut it down right away and you will probably need to pull the pan to check for trashed bearings.

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