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Open Roads Forum  >  Truck Campers

 > Cabinet hardware recommendations

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Freep

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Posted: 08/31/17 08:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Kayteg1 wrote:

The pictured doors have solid wood, at least on the frames and at 17 years they hold perfectly, so let's hear what model of Lance you have with so many problems?
For stripped screw holes, I would just get some epoxy and dip toothpicks in it to insert into the holes.
Give it overnight to dry and it is going to be stronger than original.


It's a 2014 992.

I'm not sure why it's not showing up in my posts anymore.


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Kayteg1

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Posted: 08/31/17 08:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It is showing, but too often members don't change signature when they change RV and in case like that you don't want false accusation.
Commenting on the issue "they don't build them like that anymore"





Freep

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Posted: 09/01/17 08:03am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Kayteg1 wrote:

It is showing, but too often members don't change signature when they change RV and in case like that you don't want false accusation.
Commenting on the issue "they don't build them like that anymore"


OK thanks. So epoxy and toothpicks, not wood glue?

I actually told my wife I could use toothpicks and glue during the trip and she was skeptical. I probably would have done it if I had something better than crazy glue or jbweld available.

mkirsch

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Posted: 09/01/17 08:11am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

That is a common carpentry repair for stripped screw holes in wood. Don't you watch TV at all? This Old House, half the shows on HGTV and DIY network... all at one time or another show this repair. It's a good low budget way to fill 5 minutes of airtime.

Epoxy, wood glue, even crazy glue will work in a pinch. Epoxy has the advantage of being cheap, and having a version that cures completely in 5 minutes so you are not sitting around all day waiting for the glue to dry. Crazy glue is expensive if you buy the stupid little metal tubes.

If you want to be more sophisticated use hardwood dowels instead of toothpicks. Drill out the hole for the dowel, epoxy the dowel in, trim off flush with the surface, and drill a new hole in the dowel.


Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.

Freep

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Posted: 09/01/17 08:24am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

mkirsch wrote:

That is a common carpentry repair for stripped screw holes in wood. Don't you watch TV at all? This Old House, half the shows on HGTV and DIY network... all at one time or another show this repair. It's a good low budget way to fill 5 minutes of airtime.


That's where I got the idea to use toothpicks and I knew we had them, superglue and a drill available. But I had to convince my wife first, since it's her TC.

I think the screws are too small for this application. I'm pretty sure I'm going to just replace them all while I'm at it.

I also like the dowel suggestion and I think I'm going to go that route and maybe add a little more wood on the back side too since the wood is already thin and cracked.

Thanks for chiming in.

Kayteg1

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Posted: 09/01/17 09:19am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

For stripped holes you need a glue that is also a filler, what Crazy Glue is not.
Water-based wood glue will take days to dry, so IMHO hard to beat epoxy.
If that is emergency, use 5 minutes epoxy, but those are expensive.
I am buying epoxy in 1 gallon container for laminating. That one gives you time to work before it sets, that is why I say give it overnight.

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Posted: 09/01/17 07:39pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Sigs only show once (per page)

Round toothpicks or wood match sticks and wood glue.
Usually unless a thru hole or really wallowed I dont let it set before threading screw (cabinet screws). Cant imagine your hinges wore out. We replaced ours, they were sloppy and barrel leaves splitting (other than bright shiny brass). Use the same size small screws, and several got toothpick 'backing'


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Freep

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Posted: 09/04/17 02:55pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

OK, I feel kind of stupid. I asked my father in law to take a look at the cabinets and he asked me if the wood was stripped on the cabinet or the door. It's the cabinet.

"Just drill through the cabinet and use bolts with lock washers."

Simple and effective.

stevenal

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Posted: 09/08/21 02:47pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

After a water bar unloaded my kitchen cabinets onto the floor and dogs, I supplemented the hinge struts with magnet style latches from Amazon. I think they were rated 60 lbs each, and ended up with two per cabinet. Must be a problem with the conversions, because there is no way it takes 120 lbs to open. It does take a sharp pull however. Also ditch the included screws and get some good ones.


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c.traveler2

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Posted: 09/11/21 07:44am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Freep wrote:

During the last trip we had to tape a cabinet shut because the hinge had come loose. We've been frustrated with the latches and hinges in the Lance camper for some time now and I think I need to just go ahead and replace it all. I'm sure some of you guys have already gone through this process and I'd like some suggestions please.

One other item I'd like to replace is the latch for the wet bath. It's this weird little button latch that doesn't work well. In fact, I ended up locking myself in the bathroom during the last trip when I shut the door and then couldn't open it from the inside. That stupid thing has to go.


BunduvryUSA uses this type of cabinet latches, they won't come open once set. Never had any cabinet doors come open with these lacthes regardless of how rough the road was.


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