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Open Roads Forum  >  Tech Issues

 > A/C not cooling well

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dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Posted: 09/07/17 06:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A 31 foot RV with just 1 AC will NOT cool adequately in temps above 90 degrees. That said, ALL towable OEM's do a lousy job of correctly installing the lower plenum assbly on RV's. They do not correctly seal the intake from the exhaust and have way too many areas that allow air leaks in the plenum assbly. It is amazing how using Foil Tape and sealing off the correct areas help Cold production. Doug

MEXICOWANDERER

las peƱas, michoacan, mexico

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Posted: 09/07/17 06:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'm afraid to price it...

[image]

ScottG

Bothell Wa.

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Posted: 09/07/17 09:53pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

newman fulltimer wrote:

no humidity to pull out no cool


I think we've been through this before - still not the way it works.
The more humidity the ac has to pull out the poorer the cooling performance.
The AC works best when there's no humidity.


Scott, Grace and Wesly
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time2roll

Southern California

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Posted: 09/07/17 10:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ekirkland wrote:

We have a 31' Jayco travel trailer with a single 15,000 btu A/C. While out west recently, it really struggled to keep the inside cool especially after being on the road 6-8 hours in the heat. With outside temp of 95, it would struggle to keep it below 85 until the sun started going down. Is this common or should I have it checked out?
Yes a heat soaked hot box will not cool very well or at all until the sun sets.

Although check the ducting inside the lower unit. Remove the interior trim completely. Check the transition from the plenum to the ceiling duct work is well sealed. Use some aluminum backed A/C tape if needed. Also check the plenum divider that separates the air-in from the air-out. Very common for these to be poorly placed and poorly sealed. More tape as needed. This poor installation allows the cold air to recirculate back into the unit instead of cooling the RV.

While in there check the freeze sensor is placed up in or against the evaporator. This will cycle the compressor if your are getting ice build up. Freeze up will also limit the airflow and cooling.

95? Just wait until you get into some real heat close to 115 [emoticon]


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ekirkland

Auburn, AL

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Posted: 09/11/17 10:36am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for all the help.


Eddie & Liz
Auburn, AL
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JohnG3

Morro Bay, California, USA

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Posted: 09/12/17 06:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Parked in Barstow, CA with our Montana 5th wheel a couple years ago in 100 degree temp. AC would run a few minutes then shut down. Have a plastic spray device that hooks onto a water hose. Put that on the roof pointed at the condenser and turned on the water. AC unit stayed running and the water helped to remove the heat from inside the trailer.

Found out later that the duct to the bedroom did not have an end so that much of the cool air entered the "attic" then out the roof vents. Cut a pool noodle wide enough to fit snugly into the duct down stream from the bedroom AC vent. The result was much more air flow into the bedroom and a noticeable improvement on cooling throughout the trailer.


John and Elaine. Furry ones, Bubba, Buddy, Barney and Miss Chevious
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lenr

Indianapolis, IN

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Posted: 09/12/17 08:15pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Lots of good advice here. It is also possible that your AC unit has gone bad. Our OEM Dometic 15K unit went out in 2 1/2 years. Dometic gave us a free replacement if I paid for replacement labor. That one went out in a few months of fall and next spring use. On line rumor was that Dometic had problems with China made evaporators that developed pin hole leaks--pretty suspicious that I had 2 of them. Third try was an old scratch and dent from a warehouse clearance sale that was made in Elkhart--holding up fine after 18 months.

If OP is not getting at least 15 degrees drop from intake to output, it's a losing cause. You've got AC troubles. I never have gotten quite 20 degrees drop (probably a humidity thing), but it does keep up.

Len R

mikefos

Fredericksburg, TX

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Posted: 09/13/17 07:10am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

JohnG3 wrote:


Found out later that the duct to the bedroom did not have an end so that much of the cool air entered the "attic" then out the roof vents. Cut a pool noodle wide enough to fit snugly into the duct down stream from the bedroom AC vent. The result was much more air flow into the bedroom and a noticeable improvement on cooling throughout the trailer.


Yowza, now this is interesting. Who'd a thought something like this could occur? Not me. How did you check, mirror in the end ceiling register? Thanks for posting.


Mike and Kim
2012 Jayco Eagle Super Lite 308RETS, TST 507 TPMS
2010 Chevy 2500HD, Duramax/Allison, 2WD, Long Bed, Crew Cab, Duraflaps, AMP Bedstep
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Pamela1963

Claremore, OK

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Posted: 09/15/17 07:58am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'm considering getting rid of the rooftop AC unit and installing a mini-split system in my 37 foot 5th wheel. The 5th wheel will be in a permanent/fixed location and will not be moved. It will be wired direct to an electric meter. I've seen many 'Pros', and the only 'Cons' are possible issues when traveling, which will not be an issue in my case. Any thoughts or suggestions???

time2roll

Southern California

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Posted: 09/15/17 08:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Pamela1963 wrote:

I'm considering getting rid of the rooftop AC unit and installing a mini-split system in my 37 foot 5th wheel. The 5th wheel will be in a permanent/fixed location and will not be moved. It will be wired direct to an electric meter. I've seen many 'Pros', and the only 'Cons' are possible issues when traveling, which will not be an issue in my case. Any thoughts or suggestions???
I have seen a few pictures and always good thoughts on those that have these units.

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