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Open Roads Forum  >  Travel Trailers  >  General Q&A

 > Diddums trussed roof and painting,

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hilandfrog

Montana

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Joined: 09/23/2006

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Posted: 10/02/17 11:22am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Diddums has been sitting the barn for a few years, thanks to to surgeries, new businesses and basic life events.
Found some yearning to get to working on him again this summer...

IF you'd like to see where this started 2011, it's been an adventure.
Diddums in the beginning

Here are some pictures of Diddums roof trusses... Venting the roof space seemed like a wise Idea.
Total holes in new EDPM roof is 5; 2 fantastic fans, 2 attic roof vents and 1 plumbing vent.

[image]

installed on the roof
[image]

Front end with plywood roofing going on, the very front is lower than the trusses to slope downward and outwards.
[image]

EDPM glued down.
[image]


Found this kick ass primer, that BONDS and holds to everything ( good on alum) including dust [emoticon] $75 a gallon, used about a 1/3 of a gallon. after lots of sanding it applies coming out yellow green when dry.
[image]

Best outdoor paint we could find... love the OD green.
[image]

[image]


All painted and ready for winter...

[image]

[image]

Still need to finish up the eternabond taping of corners and then put on Marker lights...


Still downloading pics and seeing IF I remember how to attach them ...

Repo

* This post was last edited 10/02/17 12:28pm by hilandfrog *   View edit history


05 Tundra 4x4

1977' Road Ranger, Diddums is in action.


rbpru

North Central Indiana

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Joined: 12/18/2013

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Posted: 10/02/17 01:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Congrats, or resurrecting a neat old TT.


Twenty six foot 2010 Dutchmen Lite pulled with a 2011 EcoBoost F-150 4x4.

Just right for Grandpa, Grandma and the dog.


westend

Shorewood, MN

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Joined: 11/17/2011

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Posted: 11/14/17 08:57am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hey Repo,
Nice work on Diddums! That truss system is quite superior!
I'm liking the paint, too.


'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton

hilandfrog

Montana

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Joined: 09/23/2006

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Posted: 11/14/17 10:24am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks Westend... Only took 5 years longer than I wanted but medical BS is medical BS....

The old roof was concave aluminum thus had to do something. All the extra space was great for more Insulation.

Paint was a $5 oops can of the best outdoor paint they sell so we took it. OD Green makes it blend in the woods, may get to painting the white stuff black this year, or even the green.

I used your pictures to rebuild the same heater as you have, haven't tested it yet, so you may be on the hook to answer a few questions [emoticon]

Repo

hilandfrog

Montana

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Posted: 11/30/17 07:58am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Getting to heating... I have 2 differing heaters with fans and computer boards and all that energy sucking stuffs...
I also have this Hydro flame ARS-10L,
[image]

Basically an open flame inside a can vented to outside.
[image]

What I'm wondering is IF I were to make this "can" bigger/better, its 7" in diameter and 14" tall some kind of sheet metal....
[image]

IF I were to make the can taller out of thicker metal would my heating improve. The thin metal plate that catches the flame.
[image]


Here is my current flame, I think it looks clean, do any of you see any improvements I could make here ??
[image]

I would like to know IF that were a number of pipes welded together, honeycomb style with a thicker "catch plate" over the top of them. Would the flame provide more heat inside or just take longer to get up to temp and then cool off.... Can I have too much volume going through, as in I'd like to change the 2" exhaust tube to a 4", then making the 2" supply duct right into a 5" feed from outside that it came with.

Any and all help appreciated, thank you.
-Repo

westend

Shorewood, MN

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Posted: 11/30/17 02:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Not getting the images in your last post. Use this, it's painless: Photoposting is great I think one of the Mods wrote that app and it is brilliant.

Heaters--My heat comes from the fuel I burn through an appliance with holes in it to distribute the gas and burn it in a certain location. The amount of heat is limited to the BTU content of the fuel and the output and efficiency of my heating appliance. IOW, wrapping metal around the flame will not produce more heat. It does offer mass, though. If properly made (I'm liking that tubing idea), it will retain heat and give off heat even with the burner off. More mass means more even heat, too. FWIW, the last three or four freestanding heater installations I've done in an RV, all had tile surrounds. More mass = more even heat.

Distributing the heat off the appliance means fans for me, 12V computer fans is what I use. Since we can now insulate these trailers well, it doesn't take extraordinary fuel burning to keep even heat inside one. My 20K Sportsman heater is typically on idle or pilot after heating the cabin.

Repo, here's one idea I had for a freestanding heater: use a 30 gallon grease drum for the outer skin. Fashion a bottom plate that holds the gas ring from a discarded water heater. Vent can be cut near the top for exhaust.I have an old box of orifices here but an orifice change may be needed if using a discarded NG gas ring.

Typically, propane gas fired appliances need a vent stack with make up air flues. The hot exhaust gas exits the flue better with an additional amount of air drawn into the stack. I have seen a few direct piped to the outside and your heater, if small enough, may operate like that. For mine, I used the make up air vent and piped air into that location from the outside. I also piped in combustion air.

* This post was last edited 11/30/17 02:49pm by westend *   View edit history

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